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Frederick Augustus Fischer.

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UCSB LIBRARY



TRAVELS



SPAIN

IN 1797 AND 1798*



BY



WITH AN APPENDIX ON THfc

METHOD OF TRAVELLING IN THAT COUNTRY*



TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN*



LONDON:

PRINTED BY A. STRAHAN, PRINTERS-STREET,

FOR T. N, LONGMAN AND O. REE3, PATERNOSTER-ROW.
1802,



PREFACE.



IN this work the author's object was to
exhibit the firft impreffions of a traveller,
and to give a living picture of the country.
He has endeavoured to note thofe particulars
which have efcaped other writers, and on
which the plan of Bourgoanne only per-
mitted him flightly to touch, as for in-
ftance the prefent ftate of literature in Spain,
and the mode of travelling there, which is
the fubject of the appendix. The reader
will therefore confider thefe fheets as a feries
of practical notes to that and other works, and
in this point of view the author hopes his la-
bours may be aflbciated with thofe of that
diftinguilhed writer.

A 2 To



IV PREFACE.

* # * To avoid the conftant interruption of
notes the tranflator has introduced thofe of
the original into the text, and even added a
few curfory obfervations of his own, diftin-
guifhed by fquare brackets [thus] where his
own knowledge of that country enabled him
to correct fome trifling error.

It may be ufeful to add that a real vellon
is almoft twopence farthing fterling ; a real
of plate or filver is about fourpence halfpenny;
a pefetta is four reals vellon (about nine-
pence three-farthings,) but is generally con-
fidered as equal to a french livre ; eight reals
of plate make a nominal dollar or dollar of
exchange (called a piece of eight) and five
pefettas make a hard dollar or dollar of twenty
reals vellon; a quarto is a fourth, and an
ochavo an eighth part of a real of vellon. 71



CONTENTS.



LETTER I.

Departure from Amfterdam for Rotterdam. The Maai or Meufe,
The Briel. Scenery. - - Page I

LETTER II.

The North Sea. Sea-Sicknefs. Dunkirk. Arrangements on
board. An Engliflj Cutter. Dover Lighthoufe. The Britijh
Channel. Scenery, - 5

LETTER III.

An Englijh Privateer. PiSurefque Defcripticn of tht Day t as it
pafles at Sea. - - "9

LETTER IV.

Scenery. A Smuggler. The Shingles. The Pleafure of a fa-
vourable Foyage. An Englijh _ Frigate. Englijhmen tn
board, - - IJ

LETTER V.

The Commencement of a Storm. 'Its Progre/s.-~DiJlrtSi. - G!rfo-
/ant.Tbe IJleofOleron. - - - 7



VI C0NTENTS.

LETTER VI.

A Wreck." Fogs and Signals. Rock and Lighthoufe of Cordua**
A Pilot' boat. Mouth of the Garonne. Guard- boats. :
Scenery. - Page 2O

LETTER VII.

Blaye.Medoc. Bee d* Ambes. The Garonne. Scenery. Lf
PaJJage.Difputes. The Port of Bordeaux' 24

LETTER VIII.

The Landing, and the S^uay. Chateau-trompette. Entrance intt.
the City. Situation of Bordeaux. Its Architefiure. - Prome-
nade called Allees de TcMrni.A Jtngular Pojting-bill. 1 be
theatre. Urf art Fortunes, - r 28



LETTER IX.

Go/eons; their Char after and Language. Bordeaux Wine ;* its
Ciaffti and Prices. Prefent Stagnation of Trade. Speculations
in -Privateers. The Exchanges-Character of the Merchants
and Inhabitants in general. - - 32

LETTER X.

Departure from Bordeaux. Society on the Road. Landes, or
Heaths. Stilts. - Inns t partly fpanijh. ~ 37

LETTER XL

*The Pyrenees. Caps uj'ed in Bifcay. Suburbs of BaionRe.~~
Firjt Appearance of that Town. Its Situation. Les Allees
Marines, or the Promenade along the Quays. Charming En-
virons of Bayonne. - . 49



CONTENTS. Vll

LETTER XII.

Trade of Bayonne. Exports and Imports. Privateering. A
De/cription of the various Qualities of Chocolate, h<yw made, and
the cbarafleriftics of its goodnefs. - Page 44.

LETTER XIII.

fete in honour of Peace. The Game catted Ballon. 4 Salt-
Fight. Char after of the Inhabitants ofBayonne . Arrangements
for a Journey in Spain. 49

LETTER XIV.

The Port of Bayonne. Its dangerous Bar. Occupations*
Fears. - - $z

LETTER XV.

Departure. View of the Coajt. San Sebaflian. Contrary
Winds* -Guetaria. Firft ImpreJJions. A Bifcajan Hoftefs.~*
Singular Beds. Arrieros. Chriftian Souls. A Surgeon's
Library. - * 55

LETTER XVI.

Guetaria. Its Situation and Appearance. An Indiana. A
Mountainous Country. Grand Scenery. - 60

LETTER XVIL

The Mafs.EccleJia/lics. Latin Eloquence. Sardine Fijhery.
Departure. - - " . 61



tt



Vlh CONTENTS.

LETTER XVIII.

fay of Bilboa. Its firft Appearance Portogalete.* Charming
Banks f the River of Bilboa. Olavijaja. Approach to Bil-
in>a.Cafa de Antonio. P a g e 66

4 LETTER XIX.

Situation of Bilboa. Ridges of Mountains. The River and its
. Sand-banks. Architecture. Population^ 70

LETTER XX.

Promenades at Bilboa The ArenaL The Road to Olavijaja.
The Road through Albia over the River, Ranges of Mountains
to the right and left. Promenades above the Town. 74

LETTER XXI.

Corpus Chrifti, or Holy Thurfday. Thi Procejpon. Grotefque
Figures. Angelas or Angels, Bull- Fight. Aficionados.
Dogs.^Embolado. - - 78

LETTER XXII.

Political Conftitution and Privileges of the Province of B if cay.
Pride of the Inhabitants. Municipal Adminiflration of tht
Town. The Alcalde and Corregidor. Municipal Taxes.
Police. Singular Laix. Prifons. Law againji Ingrati-
tude. 85

LETTER XXIII.

Simple Manners and general Char after of the Bifcayans.Amufe-
ments of Bilboa. Romerias. Tertullas* Coffee -Houfes.
Wine-Houfes. Concerts of Amateurs. Women. 85



CONTENTS, 15

LETTER XXIV.

Commerce of Bilbya. Export*. Wool. Chefnuts, &c. Manner-
of Jhipping them. Imports. Internal Commerce. Tzendas. ,
Smuggling. Foreign Trade. Bohemian Haufes. Difficulties in
obtaining Permiffion to eftablijh Honfes of Trade- Hatred
toward the French. Emigrant French Priejis.*Iht Bafqut
Language. - - Page 95

LETTER XXV.

Prcvijions. Sardines, Chefnuts, Fruits, Wines. Climate.
Maladies. Phyficians. 108

LETTER XXVI.

Departure from Bilboa.Miravalles. Defcription of a Pcfada.
Scenery, Reminifcences of Chamouny. Orduna La Pe~na.
A ft or my Night. A Vent a. Change in the Appearance of
the Country and Inhabitants. -Cajhtmes. Villa-nue'va. Sierra,
de Union. Wild Appearance cf the Mountains and Rocks ,
/ near Burgos. A French Ecclejiaftic and a Pilgrim.
gurgos. - 1 1

LETTER XXVII.

Road, to Lerma. A Mule falls Jich. Exorcifms and Holy Water*
Road to Aranda. A Girl without Arms. Arandd
Dragoons. Scene at an Inn. The Mafs BoJJequillas. Pic-
ture ofMifery.Venta of San Lorenzo. Road over the Scrao-
Jierra. Nob!e Gorda. Buytrago. A Catalonian Inn ^an-
jigojiin. Difference of Neva and Old Cajtile. Read to Satt-
Sebaftian. Firjt Picio of Madrid. Approach to Madrid.
Definition of the People feen on the Road. Cujlom Houfe
Officers, - - nz



CONTENTS*



LETTER XXVIII.

Situation of Madrid. Its Divi/ions and Population. Its Archi-
tecture* Streets ', and Squares. Dtfcriptitn of a Street crowded
vcith People. The Square called la Puerto del Sol. Pa/ling
Sills. Pedlars, Huckjiers, &c. Diver/ified Multitude.
Noon and Afternoon. Girls. Criers. Evening. Detached
Scenes. - Page 13 z

LETTER XXIX.

Promenades of Madrid. 7 he Prudo.Its Jirft Appearance. -*
Irrigation. Equipages. C&ntrajis. Description of the Pro-
menade and Carriages. Animated Appearance of the Multitude*
Ths Angelas. Tb? Evening. Walks at Buen Retire*
Pafleo de las Delicias. Other Promenades on the tuejl Side of
the City. Environs in general. - 144



LETTER XXX.

Tbe Climate. /// Variability. Its Heat. Precautions necejfary*
The Cold during Winter* Prevalent Dtfeafes.PhyJiciani.
7 be State of Medicine in general. Provisions. Maviett.
Made of Life of the higher and lower Orders. Prices of Provi-
Jions. Bread. Water. Water-carriers, nubolefale and retail.
Botellerias. Wine. Beer. Coffee-bouj'es. Taverns*
Private Houfes. Price of Boarding. 1 5 tj

LETTER XXXI.

The fpanijb Ladits. Their general Charafttr. Their Pbyfiog-
nomy and Figure. More particular Defcription of their Cba-
rafter. Mixture of Religion and Libertimfm. Want of De-
licacy. Situation of a Lover. Their Marriages. Cortejos.
Their domejlic Life. Spirit of Revenge. Tragic Injiance of it



CONTENTS. XI

f^-Drefs. The Bafquina and Mantilla.-*- Their Head-drefi -
Their Stockings and Shoes. - - Page 167



LETTER XXXII.

General Remarks on the Scenery of the Country and the frft 1m-
prejjions made by it. Character of the Spaniards. Social Life.
Fajhion Eccle/iaftical Syfttm, Progrefs Literature and
Books. Libraries Dejcription of the Royal Library. Jour-
nals and New/papers, 1 86

LETTER XXXIII.

Supplementary Letter containing d ':ons ana Proofs oftbefort-
gom^ Dtfcripticn of the Spnnijh FUthinefs in their Per-

fons, Streets, and Houjls. Backivardnefs in the Mechanical
Arts. Utenfels and Furniture. W'ant of dome/tic Indujny,
Ignorance of public Economy. Aliments. Spani/h *Dijhes. .
Drefs. Cott:<me of the Men. Curiojity and Intereft. Ex-
treme Propenjlty to ajk Qveftii.is.^ He/pit ahty. Natural Ge-
tter ojity Behaviour. Pride and Gravity, and how vjejhould

judge of thefe Dualities. Phyfagncmy, '/ he Ecclefeajlical EJla*
titflmunt ; its prefent State and Effects. Haired of Foreigner*
and of Innovations. The French. Political Temfer.~-De-

fcription of the public elementary Inflitutions at Madrid.' Pa-
triotic or economical Societies Literature Philology and
Literature in general. Theology Legijlation Philojopby.'
E.hics Politics Scienct of Commerce Geography Hif-
tory. Antiquities. Travels. Technology and Arts. Ma-
thematics. Natural Hillory. Agronomy. - Agriculture and
fiber Sciences relative thereto. Education. B tilts Ltttres. 204



XII CONTENTS.



LETTER XXXIV.

Dtfariurt from Madrid The River Guadarrama Alamo.
CafaruBios. Portuguefe Travellers. - A Market. Santa
QlallaThe Alcalde Principe de la Pax, ( 'Prince of Peace ).
The fair fugitive. No&urnal Scenes. Talavera de la
Reyna. Scenery. .Sleeping in the open Air. Aigardo.
La Parleta Velois. A pretended Demoniac. An old Fran-
cifcan. Puerto del Pico.~ Alpine Scenery. Truxillo. A Her-
mit. Cafas de San Antonio. Serranos or Mountaineers. La
Roea. Environs of Badajoz. Appearance of that City.
Jtridge over the Guadiana. w . Pagez4z

LETTER XXXV.

Jladajoz, a fortified Town on the Frontiers of Portugal. Elvas,
The Relation bet -ween them. Conveyance of Merchandize.
Regraters. Contraband Trade.' Exports and Imports. Fur-
ther Particulars. Relations of Amity between the two Nations.
Languages. Coins. Defertions. Englijb Regiments at
LiJbon.Spanijh Military. -Description of the Troops. Regi-
ments calling themfelves Svjifs. Mal-verfations of the Officers.
Wretched Condition of the Soldiers. Particulars relative to
the fpanijh Military. , -



LETTER XXXVI.

Climate ef Eftremadura. Eadajoz. Promenades. Amufcments,
~-Wine Shops.Gajnes.-~MaxQs. ( Ibe Women. Tic Canons.
bt Principe dt la Pax. Manuelito. - 370

k or .i.*.*fel -.

LETTER XXXVII.

Departure from Eadajoz. HarveJ}. Almendral. Los Santos, -
Fuente de Cantos. Entrance into Andalufia. Santa Olallx.
jioxquillo!. Approach to Seville. Extranet into it.Triana*

Bridge



CONTENTS. XMX

Bridge of Boats. Mode of lighting the Town. Advantages
of Seville. Advice to Travellers. Promenades. ~- The Gta-
dalquivir.- Anahs d? Ssvilla. P*g e 275

LETTER XXXVIII.

fwJo Routes to Cadiz.- Barco fie Carga. Night. Banks of the
Guadalquivir. San Lucar de Barrameda. Sentinels. Wine.
Prefent State of that Place. Arrangements for our Depar-
ture. Road to Cadiz. Fir It Appearance of the Bay. Second
t^ievj of the whole Town of Cadiz. Puerto de Santa Maria.
-Feluccas. Paffage acrofs the Bay. Spanijh Fleet. Scenery.

Arrival. - -284

LETTER XXXIX.

Cadiz. The Bay. Its Divifi&ns. Situation of Cadiz.-*-
Climate. Temperature. Summer. Winter. Solano. Ef-
fe3s of that Wind. Small Extent of Cadiz. Remarkable
Edifices. Streets. Environs on tie Land Side. Road along
the narrovjejt Part of the Ijibmus. Scenery. Plaza de la
Mar. The $>uay.-The Ramparts. Promenades. Scenery.
Night. Amujemtnts. El Puerto (de Santa Maria). Chic-
I ana. Provijions. Fruit. Ices. Want of Water. Re-
Sources. Charader of the A.ndaluJians.-Ejj'e8s of the Climate.

Sea bathing. The Theatre. A-ion. Volero:. Pre/er.t
State of the Trade of Cadiz. The Blockade. Evafans through
Addrtfs or permitted through Policy. Foreign Merchants.
Hanfeatics. Hatred againft the French, Spirit and Turn of
the Inhabitants of Cadiz Camcrra or Reading-room. Newf-
pafers. Port or Shipping Lijit. Inns.



LETTER XL.

Departure from Cadiz. Scenery. Torre gorda. Jjla df Leon.
Puerto de Santa Maria. - Change in the Scenery, Xeres
Lekrya. Ecija. Houjet jlngularly fainted. Cor-

dcita.



XIV CONTENTS.

dova. Mafs. Venlas deAlcolea. Carpio.
The Colonies there. Carolina. Puerto del Rey. Entrance
into La Mancha. Valdepenas. Manzanares. -* Entrance
into the Kingdom of Murcia. Fuente de la Higuera. Entrance
into the Kingdom of Valencia Beauties of that Province.'
Inhabitants, Imprcvifadores.~ Popular Sangt . Page 310

LETTER XLL

Situation and Architecture of the City of Valencia. Climate.
Charming Country. Promenades. Grao. Public Works in
the Harbour. Smuggling. Prefent State of Commerce. Ma-
nufactures. The Interior of the Houfes.The Char after of the
Inhabitants. The Women. Amufements. Advantages of this
City. Religious Delirium. - 330

LETTER XLII.

Departure from Valencia. Mur-viedro. Ancient Theatre of Sa-
guntum. Nulis. Cork Buckets. Singular Bottles. Fly
Chafers. Maltefe. Architecture. Cajiellon de la Plana.
Oropefa. Alcala de Sibert. Vinaroz, San Carlos. ~*-Tbe
Fate of public Enterprifei in Spain. dmpojla. Perellos. >
The Pirate. Pafs of Balaguer or Balacbet. Hofpitalete.
Change in the Appearance of the Country from Cambrils.
Lively Scenery. Tarragona. Torre del Embarr. Villa
Franca, Hojlal de la Orda. Approach to Barcelona. 340

LETTER XLIII.

Situation of Barcelona. Firft Impreffion made by that City and
the great Indujlry it exhibits. Promenades. Muelle de San
Luis. PaJJeo Nuevo. The Citadel. ?affeo de la. Rambla~*
The Shore. Muelle Nuevo. Environs Montjuich. Amufc-
tnents. Drefs . Figure and general Character of the Inbubit-
ants. Their political Opinions. State of the Commerce o/
Barcelona *Gretk and turkijh VeJ)els. Anecdote of two mal-
ttje Sbifi*R<./emhance with the Manners of Italy. A~van-



CONTENTS. XV

tages of Barcelona in regard to Literature and tne Arts,
Provi/tons. Language, - - Page 357

LETTER XLIV.

Departure from Barcelona. formalities to le otyevord on Embark-

in* for Genoa. The Peffii rlgoroujlj fear eked. Milane/e Ecclc-

fiajlics. Calo de Creut.- Alarm of a Pirate. Gulf cf Lyons.

P-ortGrot. - - 371

LETTER XLV.

. Light- Houfe. Vie-M of Genoa. A PbjJician.FirJt
Lapreffioni. Condti/ion. - 378



Lately publijhed by LONGMAN and REES,
PaternoJler-Row.

1. LETTERS written during a refidence in SPAItf
and PORTUGAL. By ROBERT SOUTHEY, Efq. Second
edition. Price 8s. in boards.

" j'n the variety of arnufement whicli Mr. Seuthey lias ferved up in this
Melange, the mind is at a lofs on which page moftly to dwell. Relying
on our author's aflurances, we muft think him either a very fortunate or 4
very inquifitive traveller; he muft either have been unufuaJly lucky in
meeting, fonuitoufly, with adventures or information, or have fpent
many a weaiy hour in the refearch ; for not a page occurs, that does not
either amufe us by its humour, or inflruct us by a juft train of thoughts
happily expr, fled." London Review, March 1799.

2. TRAVELS in PORTUGAL, and through
FRANCE and SPAIN. To which is added, a Differ
tation on the Literature of Portugal, and the Spanifli and
Portuguefe Languages. By HENRY FREDERICK LINK,
Profeffor at the Univerfity of Roftock, and Member of
various learned Societies. Tranflated from the German
by J. Hinckley, Efq. with Notes by the Tranflator. In
one large volume, 8vo. Price ps. in boards.

" This book is admirably adapted to the ufe of thofe who delight in the
charming purfuits of natural hiftory, and therefore we cannot too ftrongly
recommend it to the Botanift and tlie Mineralogift. It abounds alfo in
anecdotes, fo various, as to intcreft the feelings of evtry one who is
fond of that important portion of reading, which defcribes the habits and
inftitutior.s of men. The details of natural fcience are preceded by fome
judicious obfrrvations on thofe parts of France and Spain, through which
our Proteffor travelled or. his way to Portugal j it is throughout interfperfed
with Aatiftical accounts of that kingdom, with inftiuclive remarks on
its fundamental policy, literature, language, trade, and population ; and,
on the whole, the reader is, perhaps, prcfented with a more accurate
piclure of the gtntral ftate of that country, than is to he found in any
book of travels hitherto published." Anti-Jacobin Rev. Off. i8ot.

" Profeflbr Link is a traveller who has done honour to his country by his
various fcitntific difcouifes, it is therefore a circumftance of high com-
mendation in Mr. Hinckley, to make us familiar with this Fhiiofopher,
by rendering this valuable work into our own language."

Man. Mirror, Aug. 1801.

3. A TOUR through GERMANY; particularly
along the BANKS of the RHINE, MAYNE, &c. and
that part of the Palatinate, Rhingaw, &c. ufually termed
the Garden of Germany. To which is added, A Concife
Vocabulary of familiar phrafes, &c. in German and
Englifh, for the ufe of travellers. By the Rev. Dr. REN-
DER, native of Germany. In 2 vols. 8vo. Price i6s.

boards.

" This work is one of thofe ufeful produclions of the Britifh prefs,
which merit general recommendation ; for it encompafles a wide field of
dtfcriptive, extenfive, well authenticated information, and an agreeable in*
Urn;ixture oi mental amufemeiU." European Mag. Off. i8oi



TRAVELS IN SPAIN,

IN 1797 AND 1798.



LETTER I.

Departurt from Amjlerdam for Rotterdam. The Maas or Meufe.'
The Briel. Scenery.



On board the Jo.ng Pieter, off the Btiel,
April !?)>;.

IT is now noon, and we are waiting for the comp-
trollers of the cuftoms, with whom the pilot is to
go on more ; I therefore take this opportunity of
fending you a letter.

You may remember that at Amfterdam I was
feeking for a veflel bound for Spain ; but this un-
fortunate war has thrown every thing into confu-
fion. At length I found by the public prints,
that a (hip was on the point of failing from Rotter-
dam for Bordeaux, and inftantly determined to
take my pafiage thither. Having no time however
to lofe, I collected my paflports, and went in the
fchuyt to Rotterdam, where I bargained with the

B captain



2 TRAVELS IN SPAIN.

captain for twelve ducats for my paflage and
board. I bought fome provifions, and laft night
flept on board the veflel alongfide the quay of the
Meufe.

This morning, toward five o'clock, mad-heads
were perceived, a light fog announced a fine day,
and there being lefs fwell mowed, that the tide
had abated, and was about to turn. We therefore
tacked, and were prefently in the middle of the
river. By degrees the fun rofe, the wind be-
gan to frefhen from the eaftward, and, though
we only carried two fmall fails, the wind and tide
together carried us down like a dart. During a
confiderable time we ftill diftinguHhed, through
the high green trees of the Boompuys (a pleafant
promenade on the broad quay of the Meufe), the
magnificent palaces with which that quay is lined.
At length they difappeared ; as did the immenfe
arfenal, and the delicious plantations of the farther
banks ; and all thefe objects became almofl imper-
ceptible.

We failed in company with feveral other veffel?,
always coafting along the immenfe and flat banks
of the river. On our left we faw nothing but
meadows and woods j but, on the right, Delftf-
haven reared ifis enormous dykes above the furface
of the water ; and, fcon after, Schiedam, which is
celebrated for its manufacture of Gin : it refembled
a town in flames, while a thick fufFocating fmoke

inceflantly



TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 3

trtceflantly covers it, and extends along the bank
of the river like an immenfe white mountain.

We had our head to the wind, the water was
falling by degrees, and the current was increafing
more and more ; when a veffel, coming up the
river, luffed and neared us. Our pilot called out
''to him to put the helm down ; but this manoeuvre
hot being performed quick enough, we were within
half a (hip's length of each other, and our bowfprit
was come directly upon his prow. The captain
and the pilot now both exclaimed at the fame mo-
ment, " We are loft,- we are loft !" when fortu-
nately the other (hip tacked about, and we both
efcaped.

As we advanced, the river grew wider and wider,
and we faw feveral iflands adorned with the mofl
beautiful verdure. We have at length cad anchor
at the mouth of the river, near the fort of the
Briel, which ftands on the fouth point of the iiland
of Vooren. The charming plains have now given
place to fand-banks, where nothing is feen but
batteries and flag-ftaves. On the banks here and
there are women and children gathering up the
fifh and (hells which the fea has left in the traps
and in the mud. Before us we behold the blue
plains of the ocean covered with an infinite num-
ber of riming- boats ; we hear the noife of the bar
like thunder, and the fhip works with great vio-
lence at her anchors.

B 2 But



4 TRAVELS IN SPAIN.

But the pilot is impatient to have my letter, and
I mud take my leave. Adieu, my dear friend, a
thoufand times adieu. How painful is the mo
ment of feparation ! Thefe are perhaps the lafl
lines I (hall ever write you ; never more perhaps
will you hear of me. But no ; away with thefe
melancholy thoughts ! I hope this Voyage will be
as aufpicious as the two former. I truft in Heaven
and my good fortune. Once more adieu, my
deareft friend.



TRAVELS IN SPAIN.



LETTER II.

J"he North Sea. Sea-Sicknefs. Dunkirk. Arrangements on
board. An Engli/h Cutter. Dover Ligbtboufe. Tbt
Britijh Channel. Scenery .



AT length we got out to fea the day before yefter-
day, with a pretty flrong wind from the north-
eaftward. Our veflel cut the foaming waves with
rapidity ; and a multitude of fifliing-hoats, return-
ing home, faluted us from afar. We could ftill
diftinguifh the Downs ; but by degrees only faw a
greyifh fog, which foon became confounded with
the furface of the water.

At duik, I began to feel fea-fick. The waves
of the ocean are longer and ftronger than thofe of
the Baltic, and give the veflel a more violent mock,
which is the caufe of that diforder. I was however
very little incommoded by it, having, by way of
precaution, taken a few dofes of bark in fome
cherry-brandy.

Next morning we were a-breaft of Dunkirk ;
to which we were fo near, that, with a common,
pocket-glafs, I diftinguifhed the mips of war in
the road, and the three fteeples fo well known by
feamen. The fun feemed to rife directly over the

B 3 town,



6 \ TRAVELS IN SPAIN.

town, gilding the furface of the waves ; but the
air was cold, and great part of the heavens
overcaft.

The firft day of a fea voyage is almoft entirely em-
ployed in getting to rights : there are fo many things
to arrange, that nothing is thought of but examin-
ing every thing, and fixing the place it fhould
occupy. My coje, or cabin, contains, at the foot
a, fmall cupboard for my provifions ; and my books
and papers on a fhelf for that purpofe above my
head. I am not indeed very comfortably lodged,
but it does very well.

The captain had alfo a multitude of affairs to,
attend to : he had to arrange his charts, his qua-
drants, and his glafles, examine the fails and cord*
age, diftribute his provifions, &c. In (hort, the
whole morning and part of the afternoon pafled
in thefe preparations ; till at length the boatfwain
fuddenly called out, that there were four fail to
leeward : upon this, we all went upon deck, and
perceived, by our glaffes, three Englifti frigates an4
a cutter.

I believe I have told you we failed under pruf.
fian colours and papers ; as foon therefore as we
came in fight of the englifh mips, we hoifted our
pruffian flag ; upon which they made a fignal for
us to come alongfide the cutter, who began her in-
quiries with her fpeaking- trumpet : " Where are
you from ?" " From Rotterdam." " Where are

you



TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 7

you bound ?" " For Bordeaux." " Of what
country are you ?" " Pruffians." " Pafs, and
be damn'd !" We had already begun to fear they
would force us to vifit Dover againft our will,
and were aftonifhed at our good fortune in
efcaping.

We now faw nothing around us but veflels of
all forts and fizes, and failing in all dire&ions,


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Online LibraryFrederick Augustus FischerTravels in Spain in 1797 and 1798. With an appendix on the method of travelling in that country → online text (page 1 of 23)