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Frederick E Shearer.

The Pacific tourist : J.R. Bowman's illustrated trans-continental guide of travel, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ... : acomplete traveler's guide of the Union and Central Pacific Railroads ... online

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Online LibraryFrederick E ShearerThe Pacific tourist : J.R. Bowman's illustrated trans-continental guide of travel, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ... : acomplete traveler's guide of the Union and Central Pacific Railroads ... → online text (page 22 of 61)
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mons are great on literal interpretation. Figu-
rative language and expressions as viewed by
them are realities. The Bible means exactly
what it says with them. They had reasons,
however, for being enchanted. From the canon
through which they entered the valley, the view
is simply magnificent. The Great Salt Lake
glittered like a sheet of silver in the rays of the
morning sun ; the towering peaks of the mount-
ain ranges, crowned with clouds and snow,
lifted themselves high up toward the sky, and
the valley, though a desert, was to them as lovely
as a June rose. The party camped on a small
stream south-west of the Tabernacle, and pro-
ceeded to consecrate the entire valley to the
" Kingdom of God." On the 28th of the same
month, the ground for the temple was selected
a tract of 40 acres, and a city two miles square
was laid off. Streets eight rods wide were



staked out, and the blocks contained ten acres
each. Orson Pratt took observations, and deter-
mined the latitude and longitude of the city. A
large number of this pioneer party, after planting
their crops returned for their families, and the
last expedition for that year arrived on the last
day of October, when they were received by those
that remained with demonstrations of great joy.
Brigham Young went back with the returning
party, and did not find his way again to " Zion "
until the next year. After the city had been
founded, emigration from foreign countries,
which had been suspended, was re-organized
and came pouring into the Territory in masses.
The city grew and the people spread out over
the Territory, settling every available spot of
land, thus contributing to its prosperity.

Beauty of Position. The main portion of
the city lies off to the left, as it is approached by
the traveler, and presents a pleasing appearance.
Its streets are wide, with streams of water cours-
ing their way along the sides, while rows of
beautiful shade trees line the walks; and gar-
dens, and yards filled with fruit trees of various
kinds, everywhere greet the eye. Visitors
who are interested in beautiful gardens, will
find the most interesting on Main Street, just
west of the Walker House, at the residences
of the Walker Brothers ; also at Mr. Jen-
nings, on Temple Street, near the depots.
The city is now nearly thirty years old, and
in that time the tourist can see for him-
self what wonderful changes have been
made. The desert truly buds and blossoms
as the rose. The city is admirably located
for beauty, and at once charms its visitors.
The tourist should engage a carriage and drive
up and down the shaded streets, and see the wil-
derness of fruit groves and gardens. The first
practical thing, however, with the traveler is to
select his stopping place, during his visit. Of
hotels there are two first-class houses that are
popular resorts with the traveling public. The
Walker House is a four story brick structure with
132 rooms. It is located on the west side of
Main Street, has a frontage of 82 feet and a
depth of 120 feet. It has lately been entirely
renovated and handsomely furnished; also has
had the addition of a passenger elevator. It is
especially noted for its excellent table, which is
abundant in game, fruits, fish, etc. The Con-
tinental Hotel (formerly Townsend House) is on
the corner of West Temple and South Second
streets, and has a fine shady piazza along the
front. Both of these hotels face eastward, both
are lighted with gas, and both are supplied with
all modern conveniences and luxuries. There are
also other good hotels in the city, which are con-
sidered second-class, and are largely patronized.

Sights for Tourists. Having selected a
stopping place, the next thing is a visit to the
warm sulphur spiings for a bath. The strait



133




OFFICES AND FAMILY RESIDENCE OF BR1GHAM YOUNG.



cars, running by nearly all the hotels, will take
you there.

Warm Springs. These are, to invalids,
the most grateful and delightful places of resort
in the city. Exceedingly valuable either for
rheumatic or dyspeptic complaints, they are ex-
cellent in general invigorating properties, and
specially efficacious in skin diseases. They are
but about one mile from the hotel, and can be
reached either by horse-cars or carriage, or by
a pleasant walk. The best time to enjoy them is
early in the morning before breakfast, or before
dinner. The baths never should be taken within
three hours after a meal. The springs issue
from the limestone rock near the foot of the
mountains, and the curious character of the rock
is seen in the stones used for either fences or the
foundation of the buildings. The following an-
alysis has been made of the water by Dr. Charles
S. Jackson of Boston, and is generally posted on
the walls of the bathing-house.

" Three fluid ounces of the water, on evapo-
rating to entire, dryness in a platine capsule, gave
8.25 grains of solid dry saline matter.



Carbonate of lime -and magnesia,

Peroxide of iron,

Lime.

Chlorine,

Soda.

Magnesia,

Sulphuric Acid,



0.240
0.040
0.545
3.454
2.877
0.370
0.703



1.280
0.208
2.907
18.421
15.344
2.073
3.748



8.229 43.981

It is slightly charged with hydro-sulphuric acid
gas, and with carbonic acid gas, and is a pleas-
ant, saline mineral water, having the valuable
properties belonging to a saline sulphur spring.

The temperature is lukewarm, and, being of
a sulphurous nature, the effects are very pene-
trating ; at first the sensation is delicious, pro-
ducing a delightful feeling of ease and re-



pose ; but il the bather remains long, over
fifteen minutes, there is danger of weakness and
too great relaxation. These baths are now un-
der control of an experienced gentleman, and
fitted up with every modern convenience. Here
are Turkish baths, Hot Air baths and Russian
baths, in addition to the natural bath. The
warm sulphur-water can be enjoyed in private




NEW MORMON TEMPLE.



rooms, or in the large swimming bath. There are
separate rooms for ladies and gentlemen, and a
smaller building near by is fixed up for the boys,
where they can frolic to their heart's content.
Mot Springs. The tourist should take



134



carriage, and, after visiting the Warm Springs
and enjoying the bath, drive a mile farther north
to where the mountain spur juts out to the very
railroad and, right at its base are situated the
"Hot Springs" which are the greatest natural
curiosity of the city. The water boils up, with
great force, from a little alcove in the limestone
rocks, just even with the suiiace of the ground.
If you dare to thrust your hand in it, you will
find it boiling hot, apparently with a temperature
of over 200. The finger can not be retained in
the water longer than a very few seconds ; yet the
sensation, as it is withdrawn, is so soft and cool-
ing, one would like to try it again and again, and
strange to say, rarely with any danger oi scald-
ing. If meat is dropped into this boiling water,



agriculture and vegetation for hundreds of yards
within the vicinity. This lake is also supposed
to be supplied, to some extent, by other hot
springs beneath the surface. Strange as it may
seem, the hot water does not prevent the ex-
istence of some kinds of excellent fish, among
which have been seen some very fine large trout.
Analysis of Hot Sulphur Spring :



Chloride of Sodium,

" Magnesium,
" " Calcium,
Sulphate of Lime.
Carbonate of Lime,
Silica,



0.8052
0.0288
0.1096
0.0806
0.0180
0.0180

1.0602



Specific gravity, 1.1454.

The Museum is located on the south side




INTERIOR OF OFFICE OF THE MORMON PRESIDENT.



it is soon cooked, (though we cannot guarantee
a pleasant taste) and eggs will be boiled, ready
for the table, in three minutes. Often a dense
volume of steam rises from the spring, though
not always. A very large volume of water issues
forth from the little hole in the rock scarcely
larger than the top of a barrel about four feet
wide and six to twenty inches deep. Immedi-
ately near the rock is a little pool, in which the
water, still hot, deposits a peculiar greenish color
on the sides, and coats the long, wavy grass with
its sulphurous sediment. Flowing beneath the
railroad track and beyond in the meadows, it
forms a beautiful little lake, called Hot Spring
Lake, which, constantly filling up, is steadily in-
creasing its area, and, practically, destroying all



of South Temple street, and directly opposite
the Tabernacle. Professor Barfoot is in charge,
and he will show you specimen ores from the
mines, precious stones from the desert, pottery-
ware and other articles from the ruins of ancient
Indian villages, the first boat ever launched on the
Great Salt Lake by white men, home-made
cloths and silks, the products of the industry of
this people, specimen birds of Utah, a scalp
from the head of a dead Indian, implements of
Indian warfare and industry, such as blankets
white people cannot make, shells from the ocean,
and various articles from the Sandwich Islands,
and other things too numerous to mention.

Formerly there were quite a number of living
wild animals kept here, but some fiend poisoned



135




VIEW OF SALT LAKE CITY, LOOKING WESTWARD ACKOSS THE JORDAN VALLEY.



the most of them. There are now living, how-
ever, a large horned owl, a prairie dog, and the
owls that burrow with him, together with the
rattlesnake ; also other birds and reptiles which
need not be named. This institution is the re-
sult of the individual enterprise of John W.







SIGN OF MORMON STORES. SALT LAKE CITY.



Young, Esq., and for which he is entitled to
great credit. A nominal sum, simply, is charged
for admission, which goes for the support of Pro-
fessor Barfoot, who has the care and direction of
the Museum. Across the street, behind a high
wall, is the Tabernacle, and near by it, on the
east, enclosed within the same high wall, are the
foundation walls of the new Temple. We shall
not attempt a description of either, as a personal
inspection will be far more satisfactory to the
visitor. We advise every tourist to get to the
top of the Tabernacle, if possible, and get a view
of the city from the roof. Within the same
walls may be found the Endowment house, of
which so much has been written. In this build-
ing both monogamous and polygamous marriages
take place, and the quasi-masonic rites of the
church are performed. On South Temple street,
east of Temple block, is the late residence of
Brigham Young, also enclosed in a high wall
which shuts out the rude gaze of passers-by, and
gently reminds the outsider that he has no busi-
ness to obtrude there. Nearly opposite to this
residence is a large and beautiful house which
is supposed to belong to the Prophet's favorite
wife, Amelia familiarly called Amelia Palace,
probably the finest residence for 500 miles around.
Returning to East Temple or Main street, we
behold a large brick building with iron and
glass front, three stories high, with a skylight its



136



wmm



entire length. This is the new "co-op" store,
40 feet wide and 300 feet long, with all the mod-
ern improvements, steam elevator, etc. Nearly
opposite this store is Savage's picture gallery,
whose photographs of scenery and views
along the road, are the finest of any ever
issued in the Territory. Continuing on
the same street south, the handsome build-
ing of the Deseret National Bank greets
our gaze, on the north-east corner of East
Temple and First
South streets. Di-
agonally across the
street from this is
the emporium of
William Jennings,
Esq. But it is
needless to enu-
merate all the
buildings in the
city, be they pub-
lic or private.
We must not omit,
however, the ele-
gant private resi-
dence and beau-
tiful grounds of
Mr. Jennings, on
the corner east of
the depot. They
are worthy of a
visit, and so, also,
is the elegant pri-
vate residence of
Feramor Little,
directly east of the
Deseret National
Bank. The theater
is open occasion-
ally in the even-
ing, where may be
seen many of the
leading Mormons
and their families.

The city is sup-
plied with the
electric light, gas,
water, and street
railroads. The
water is brought
from City Creek Canon, through the principal
streets, in iron pipes, though in some seasons
the supply is rather short.

Scenery Near t/ie City. North of the city,
Ensign Peak lifts its head, the Mountain of
Prophecy, etc. Its crown is oval in shape, and
the mountain, etc , is said to have been seen in a
vision by some of the Mormon dignitaries long
before it was beheld by the naked eyes of the
present settlers. The sight from this peak, or
others near at hand, is grand and impressive.
Under your feet lies the City of the Saints, to




INTERIOR OF MORMOV TABERNACLE. THE GREAT ORGAN.



the west the Great Salt Lake, to the south the
valley of the river Jordan, the settlements along
the line of the railroad, and the mountains on
either side. Though the way to the summit re-
quires a little toil, and will expand one's lungs to
the fullest extent, yet the reward, when once the
summit is reached, will amply pay for all the
toil it has cost.

In the summer months only, the Tabernacle is
open, and the services of the Mormon church are

then held there
nearly every Sab-
bath. Behind the
rostrum or pulpit
is the great organ,
made in the city,
and said to be the
second in size on
the Continent.

East of the city
there seems to be
a withdrawal of
the mountains and
a part of a circle,
formed like an
amphitheatre.
About two miles
east is Camp
Douglas, estab-
lished by General
Connor during the
late war. It is beau-
tifully located on
an elevated bench
commanding the
city,and at the base
of the mountains.
New buildings
have been erected,
and it is now
considered one
of the finest and
most convenient
posts the govern-
ment has. It is
supplied with
water from Red
Butte Canon, and
has a great many
conveniences.
Below Camp Douglas, Emigration Canon next
cuts the mountains in twain. It is the canon
through which Orson Pratt and his companions
came when they first discovered the valley, the
lake, and the site for a city through which
Brigham Young and the pioneers came, and was
the route by which nearly all the overland emi-
grants arrived, on coming from the East. Below
this, as you look south, is Parley's Canon,
through which a road leads to Parley's Park and
the mining districts in that region. Then comes
South Mill Creek with its canon, through the



137



towering peaks, and then the Big Cottonwood
Creek and Canon. Between it and Little Cot-
tonwood Canon, next on the south, is the mount-
ain of silver or the hill upon which is located
some of the richest paying mines in the Terri-
tory. Here is the Flagstaff, the North Star, the
Emma, the Heed & Benson, and others worth
their millions. The Emma mine has become
notorious in the history of mines, but there is
not a practical miner in Utah who doubts the
existence of large bodies of rich ore there, and,
if it had been practically worked, would, in the
opinion of
many, have
etqualed, if not
exceeded, the
celebrated Corn-
stock lode be-
fore this.

No visitor to
Salt Lake
s h o u Id leave
the city with-
out a trip to the
lake and a ride
on its placid
bosom a trip,
also, to the
southern ter-
minus of the
Utah Southern
Railroad, the
mountains and
canons along
its line, and to
the mountains
and mines of
Stockton,
Ophir, Bing-
ham, and above
all, the Cotton-
wood districts.
If you are fur-
ther inclined to
improve the op-
portunity, ride
up to Parley's
Park, go to
Provo and spend a week, or a month even, in
visiting the wonderful canons near there, and
in hunting and fishing in the mountain streams
and in Lake Utah. A trip to the summit of
old Mount Nebo would afford you good ex-
ercise, and very fine views. With Salt Lake
for headquarters, all these places can be taken
in, and your only regret will be that you did
not stay longer, travel farther, and see more of
this wonderful land.

Gardening, Irrigation. The city was
originally laid out in large ten acre blocks, which
were, in time, subdivided into house lots, most
of which, having been liberally planted with




SEW RESIDENCE OF BRIGHAM YOUNG. AMELIA PALACE.



fruit trees, have since grown with great luxuri-
ance, and the city seems a vast fruit orchard and
garden. Through all the streets run the little
irrigating streams, and every part of the city
has its chance, once or twice a week, to get a sup-
ply of pure water to wet the soil and freshen the
vegetation.

The city is divided into wards. Every ward
has its master, and he compels all the inhab-
itants to turn out and work on public improve-
ments. There is no shirking. Every one has a
responsibility to guard and watch his own

property, take
care of his own
irrigating
ditches, and
keep his ward
in perfect order.
The city is one
of perfect order
and quietness.

Through all
the streets of
the city there
is a universal
and luxuriant
growth of
shade trees.
These have
been planted
profusely, and
grow with
amazing rapid-
ity. The lo-
cust, maple and
box-elder, are
the greatest fa-
vorites, the for-
mer, however,
being most
planted. In
many cases
the roots have
struck the al-
kali soils, which
contain an ex-
cess o f soda
and potash, and
their leaves have turned from a bright or dark
green to a sickly yellow and often trees may be
noticed, half green and half yellow.

This alkali has to be washed out of the soil by
irrigation, and gradually grows less positive year
by year. In nearly all the gardens are splendid
apples, pears, plums and apricots, growing with
exceeding thrift, and covered with the most
beautiful blushing colors. Apricots which in
the East are almost unknown, here have been so
abundant as often to sell as low as $1.00 per
bushel, and we have seen them as large as east-
ern peaches, from four to six and eight inches
round.






i3S



Flowers are very abundant, and vegetables are
wonderfully prolific. In the gardens of William
Jennings, may be seen growing out doors on
trellises, grapes, the Black Hamburgh, Golden
Chasselas and Mission grape, varieties which are
only grown in a hot-house in the East. Through
all the gardens can be seen an abundance of
raspberries, gooseberries and currants. In Mr.
Jennings's garden, in summer, may be seen a
pretty flower garden, 150 feet in diameter,
within the center of which is a piece of velvety
lawn the finest and most perfect ever seen
while from it, southward, can be caught a spe-
cially glorious view of the Twin Peaks of the
Wahsatch Mountains, capped with unvarying
snow.

Future of Salt Lake City. The future of
Salt Lake depends upon two things the mines
and the railroads. If the mines are developed
and capital is thus increased, it will have a ten-
dency to cause an immense amount of building
in the city, and a corresponding advance in real
estate. The city now lias a population of
twenty thousand. Many parties owning and
operating mines make the city their place of
residence, and some have already invested in
real estate there. If the Utah Southern is
extended to the Pacific Coast, it will add largely
to the wealth, population and influence of the
" City of the Saints. " The silent influence of
the Gentiles, and the moral power of the
^Nation, have already had an effect upon the
Mormons of the city, which will soon be felt
throughout the Territory.

Newspapers. The press of Salt Lake is
exceedingly peculiar. The Daily News is the
recognized church organ; the Daily Ht -raid is
more lively. It is the organ of the so-called
progressive Mormons. The Daily Tribune is
a stinging, lively journal the leading organ
of the opposition to the priesthood and the
theocracy. The Mail is an evening paper,
tinder Gentile influences, but not as bold or
."belligerent as the Tribune. The Utah Weekly
Miner is a paper devoted to the development
of, the mineral resources of the Territory.
There is another little evening paper called
the Times, under church influences. Fortunes
have been expended upon newspaper enter-
prises in Salt Lake, but with the exception
of the three papers first mentioned, none have
succeeded.

. The Utah Southern Railroad. This
road is really a continuation of the Utah Cen-
tral. It was begun on the 1st day of May,
1871, and completed to Sandy that same year.
In 1872 it was extended to Lehi, about thirty
miles from Salt Lake City. In 1873 it was ex-
tended to Provo, and its present terminus is
at Frisco, an important mining center in
southern Utah. It will probably be extended
from a hundred to a hundred and fifty miles



the present year. Frisco is two hundred and
forty-two miles irom Salt Lake City, and some
fifty miles from the eastern line of Nevada.
The stockholders of the Union Pacific Koad
own a controlling interest in this, as also in
the Utah Central. It will probably be ex-
tended to the Pacific Coast. The great bulk
of its business is between Salt Lake City and
Sandy, though travel and traffic are gradu-
ally increasing on the balance of its line, and
will rapidly double up as soon as the road shall
have reached the rich mining districts in the
southern portions of Utah. Its general di-
rection is southward from Salt Lake City, up
the Jordan Valley to the Valley of Lake Utah,
and thence across the divide as before men-
tioned. The giant peaks of the great Wahsatch
range lie close along the road on the east, so
that the traveler has an unending panorama
of lake, valley and river on one hand,
and of the snow-covered mountain sum-
mits and timbered foot-hills on the other.
Travelers visiting this Territory should not fail
to visit the towns, valleys and mountains on this
line of road. The Valley of Lake Utah espe-
cially, entirely surrounded by mountains lofty and
rugged, will compare favorably, so far as magnifi-
cent scenery is concerned, with anything of a
similar character to be found either in Europe
or America. Leaving Salt Lake City, we slowly
pass through the limits of the corporation where
cultivated fields and gardens, with farm houses
and fine orchards of all kinds of fruit trees,
giving evidences of thrift on every side, greet
our gaze. Streams of water are constantly run-
ning through the irrigating ditches, and the
contrast between the cultivated lands and the
sage brush deserts, sometimes side by side, is
wonderful. On our left, the everlasting mount-
ains, with their crowns of snow almost always
visible, stand like an impenetrable barrier to ap-
proaches from the east, or like eternal finger-
boards, and say as plainly as words can indicate
" go south or north ; you cannot pass us." On
the right, the river Jordan winds its way to the
waters of the great inland sea, while beyond,
towering into the sky, are the peaks of the
Oquirrh Range. You will need to keep your
eyes wide open, and gaze quickly upon the
rapidly changing scenes as they come into view,
or swiftly recede from your vision; for, between
the scenes of nature and the works of man in
reclaiming this desert, you will hardly know
which to admire the most, or which is the most
worthy of your attention.

The following are stations and distances from
Salt Lake City:

Little Cottonwood 7 miles.

Junction 12 "

Sandy 13 "

Draper , 17 "

Lehi.. ...31 "



139



American Fork 34 miles.

Pleasant Grove 37

Provo 48

Bpringville 53

Spanish Fork 58

Payson 66

Santaquin 71

York 75

Little Cottonwood, 7 miles from the city.
It is a way station at which trains do not stop
unless nagged, or the signal is given from on
board the train. All the canons and ravines in
the mountains supply more or less water, which
is gathered into canals and distributed through
ditches as re-
quired for the
fields, meadows
and orchards.
The well culti-
vated fields con-
tinue until we
arrive at

Junction,
12 miles from
Salt Lake City,
where the Bing-
ham Canon &
Camp Floyd
Railroad inter-
sects the Utah
Southern. Pas-
sengers here
change cars for
Bingham Canon
and the mining
districts in that
vicinity. This
road i s about
twenty-two
miles long and
i s extensively
used in trans-
porting ore, bull-
ion, coke, coal
and charcoal to
and from the
mines and
smelting works
and railroad. It
feet) road and is now doing a fine^business.

Sandy, 13 miles from the city and the point
of intersection of the Wahsatch & Jordan Val-
ley Railroad, narrow gauge (three feet). This
road turns off to the left and goes up Little
Cottonwood Canon, which can now plainly be



Online LibraryFrederick E ShearerThe Pacific tourist : J.R. Bowman's illustrated trans-continental guide of travel, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ... : acomplete traveler's guide of the Union and Central Pacific Railroads ... → online text (page 22 of 61)