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Frederick E Shearer.

The Pacific tourist : J.R. Bowman's illustrated trans-continental guide of travel, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ... : acomplete traveler's guide of the Union and Central Pacific Railroads ... online

. (page 44 of 61)
Online LibraryFrederick E ShearerThe Pacific tourist : J.R. Bowman's illustrated trans-continental guide of travel, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ... : acomplete traveler's guide of the Union and Central Pacific Railroads ... → online text (page 44 of 61)
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South from Lone Mountain lies the Golden
Gate Park, in which the city justly takes great
pride, and which is destined to become one of
the most beautiful of city pleasure grounds in
the United States. It was a waste of sand only
five or six years since, but, by careful planting
of the yellow lupin, the sand is subdued, and
by irrigation, grass-plats have been created, and
a forest of trees brought rapidly forward. The
drives are fine, and, on pleasant days, thousands
of carriages resort here. Driving is a Californi-
an's weak point, and more money is expended by
him on livery and private stables in proportion
to his means and other expenditures, than by his
brother-citizens of the " States." It is a natural
result of plentiful money, long distances and few
railroads. Racing is also much in vogue, and a
fine race-track is laid out, near Lone Mountain,
in full view from the Park.

All the religious denominations are well repre-
sented, and there are some fine buildings for



worship, among which the Synagogue on Sut-
ter, the First Congregational Church on Post,
and St. Patrick's Cathedral on Mission Street,
are most notable.

But the most imposing church edifice in the
city is St. Ignatius Church and College on Hayes
Street near Market. The entire structure covers
a block, and the cost was $750,000. It is under
the control of the Jesuits.

Benevolent mutual societies and secret orders
are very numerous. Particulars concerning them
and the churches may be found in the city
directory. The free schools of the city are a
just source of pride. They are provided for
with a liberality, and conducted with a skill,
which make them of incalculable value to the
city in all its interests.

The Mercantile Library, the Mechanics' and
the Odd Fellows', are large and valuable, and
the use of them may be obtained on easy terms.

A Free Library has been opened on Bush
Street, between Kearney and Fleet (formerly
Dupont) streets, from which books may be taken
without charge. It is the most popular library
in the city, and as its funds are derived from
a general tax, its growth is rapid.

Among bookstores, many are prominent.
C. Beach, Billings and Harbourne and J. Hoff-
man are on Montgomery Street. On Market
Street are Bancroft & Co., with a spacious and
elegant edifice in which all departments of book-
making are carried on, and valuable law-books
published. Bibles and religious books are
represented by the American Tract Society and
California Bible Society in the "Bible House"
on Market Street, and the Methodist Book Con-
cern, in their own edifice on the same street.

Strangers, properly introduced, are granted
the privilege of the library and reading-room
of the Mercantile Library on Bush Street near
Montgomery, free for a month, and odd hours
can be put in there very pleasantly, especially in
the reading-room, which is light, cheerful, and
supplied with the best papers, magazines, and
reviews of this and other lands.

_ Excursions. For sight-seeing in San Fran-
cisco, no plan will suit the convenience of every
one, but the best for a few days is the following:

Let the morning be spent in a ride to the
Cliff House, where a good breakfast may be ob-
tained, if not had sooner. The Cliff House
Road is the shortest route and is unsurpassed as
a drive. The shell-road of New Orleans is no
better. But the road through the Golden Gate
Park is splendidly macadamized, and should
be traveled either going or returning. A drive
should be taken along the beach to " Ocean
House, " and a return made to the city, through
and over the hills. Coming into the city by
this road, there bursts into view one of the most
magnificent sights on the coast. The city, the
bay, Oakland and a vast extent of mountain,



273



valley, loveliness of nature and art, are spread
out below. If the Park can be reserved for a
separate drive, go by the Cliff House Road; if not,
go by the Park. The Cliff House may be reached,
also, by the Geary Street cable-road and omni-
buses. The cost of a carriage for four persons
will be $10.00 for the trip by omnibus and
cars, about a dollar for each person. The
trip should be made as early as possible to avoid
the wind and fog.

The afternoon may be spent at Woodward's
Gardens, making sure of the feeding of sea-lions
at 1 or 3:30 o'clock. The aquarium is unique,
suggested by one in Berlin, and has nothing like
it in America. Birds, animals of various kinds,
fruits, flowers, museum, art gallery and many
other objects of attraction, make these gardens
one of the chief attractions to tourists. They
represent the Pacific Coast in its animals and
curiosities better than any other collection.

There are always new attractions in the way
of plants and animals, and on every Saturday
and Sunday afternoon a theatrical entertain-
ment.

Another morning, go up Clay Street Hill in
the cars, and ride to the end of the route. Fine
views will be seen of the city and bay, from
many points, and some handsome residences
will be passed. Clay Street Hill is the highest
point in the city reached by cars, but the ride
on the California Street cable-road will be the
most interesting because the finest residences
in the city are on this street among them being
Mrs. Hopkins', Gov. Stanford's and Mr. Charles
Crocker's. On descending, climb Telegraph
Hill on foot, the only way in which it can be
done, and enjoy the view in all directions. After
lunch take the Market Street cars, and ride to
Twenty-first Street. At Sixteenth Street, one
will be near the old Mission Church, an adobe
building dedicated in 1776. Having reached
Twenty -first Street cross to Folsom, and return
in the North Beach and Mission cars to the city,
leaving them where they cross Market, or at the
end of their route, corner of California and
Montgomery. These rides will take one through
the portion of the city rapidly growing and ex-
tending toward the southwest. There will be
time, after returning, to walk about Kearney and
Montgomery streets, near Market, also up and
down Market, and see the finest retail stores,
and look at new buildings.

Another day one can go to Oakland early,
take a carriage at Broadway Station and ride to
Berkley, Piedmont, and through Brooklyn or
East Oakland to Fruit Vale, or along Lake Mer-
ritt, up and down streets and around the city
at pleasure. Fine houses, beautiful grounds,
good roads, flowers, shade trees and pleasant
sights are everywhere. Returning to the city
in season for the 4 p. M. boat up the Sacramento
River, one can take it as far as Martinez, a two



and a half or three hours' ride, and see the
northern part of San Francisco Bay, San Pablo
Bay, Benicia and Suisun Bay, leaving the boat
at Martinez and there spending the night. Early
next morning a stage will take one to Mount
Diablo, and three hours can be spent on its
summit enjoying as fine a view as there is any-
where in California, after which the boat or train
can be reached in season to be in San Francisco
for the night, or one can stay for the night at a
good hotel near the summit, see the sun rise,
and return to San Francisco the next night.
The fare for this round trip is ten dollars.

Alameda and Oakland can be visited the same
day, or half a day can be spent in Alameda, in-
cluding a salt-water bath, the facilities for
which are convenient and ample. Many hun-
dreds bathe there in a single day.

To Alameda and Oakland one has choice of
three routes. (1) The C. P. R. R. ferry. (2)
The Creek Route to the foot of Broadway, Oak-
land (the favorite route for carriages) owned
also by the C. P. R. R. Company, and, (3) the
South Pacific Coast Narrow Gauge Railroad.

The time and fare are the same by all the roads,
and all start from the foot of Market Street.

Most of San Francisco has now been seen. It
would be well to ride through Van Ness Avenue
and see the fine residences there; but one will
begin to think of San Jose, Monterey, Santa
Cruz, the Geysers, etc. Another forenoon can
be spent pleasantly in the city by taking horse-
cars through the fast-growing western addition
to the city, to the end of the route at Laurel Hill
Cemetery, and walking about there for an hour.
Returning in season to get off near the United
States Mint, at corner of 5th and Market Streets,
by 11 A. M., one can visit that institution, which is
daily open for visitors until noon. In the after-
noon, at 3.25, one may go to San Jose. The
route leads through beautiful villages, some of
which have been selected for the residence, most,
if not all the year, of wealthy gentlemen of San
Francisco. San Jose will be reached in season
for a walk or ride about the city. The Auzerais
House is a first-class hotel, and carriages can be
obtained there at reasonable rates. The Court-
House and State Normal School are the chief
public buildings. General Naglee's grounds, which
are open to visitors, except on Sunday, are well
worth a visit.

If time allows, one may, by taking a private
carriage, go to the New Almaden Quicksilver
Mines, enjoy a fine ride, gaze upon a wide-spread-
ing view upon the summit of the hill, in which
the mines are situated, see the whole under-
ground process of mining, provided the superin-
tendent will grant a permit to enter them, which
is not likely, and return to San Jose the same
day, or if not able to afford time for this, can go
over to Santa Clara by horse-car, through the
shady Alameda, three miles long, laid out and



277



planted in 1799, by the Padres of the mission,
visit the two colleges there, one Methodist, the
other Roman Catholic, and return in season for
the morning train to Gilroy, Watson ville, etc.,
and reach Monterey the same night; or, if tima
will not allow of doing this, he may spend a
little more time at San Jose and Santa Clara,
ride out to Alum Bock Springs, through the
Shaded Avenue, the prettiest drive in the State,
and, taking the afternoon train, reach San Fran-
cisco at 5:35 p. M.

Whoever goes to Monterey and Santa Cruz
will want to stay there two nights and a day, at
least, and there are so many charming rides and
resorts near these watering-places of the Pacific
Coast, that many days can ba spent there very
agreeably. The trip back to the city may ba
made by steamboat, and is a pleasant variety for
those who are not afraid of a short exposure to
ocean waves and tossing.

Bat every one must go to Monterey, the
old capital, but now the Long Branch and Cape
May of the Pacific. For scenery, for climate,
for beautiful drives, for hunting, trout-fishing,
sea-fishing, for bathing, for hotel comforts in
short, to see and enjoy one of the greatest
wonders in California, go to the " Hotel Del
Monte " and Monterey. One trip may combine
Monterey and Santa Cruz, for they are on op-
posite sides of the same bay.

The next trip will naturally be to the Geysers
and the Petrified Forest this must include
either Napa and Russian River Valleys, or both.
Where only one valley is to be seen, the Napa is
far preferable, both on account of the higher
state of cultivation and natural scenery. The
road from Calistoga to the Geysers overlooks
the Russian River Valley, but the Napa Valley
can be seen only by going via Calistoga.

The Petrified Forest is on this route, about
two miles from the direct road, and at Calistoga
there are the Warm Springs, and near St. Helena
the White Sulphur Springs, which, before the
opening of the Hotel Del Monte at Monterey,
were the most delightful and fashionable resort
in California.

On each route there are two trains a day dur-
ing the summer season, but the morning train
via the Russian River Valley and Cloverdale is
far preferable to the afternoon train, for the
former goes via San Rafael, and is almost wholly
by rail. The latter includes thirty-five -miles by
steamer. The route via San Rafael and Clover-
dale is about two and a half hours shorter than
the route via Napa.

Two days and one night are sufficient to visit
the Geysers and Petrified trees, without stop-

ing at San Rafael or the White Sulphur
prings . Returning from the Geysers to Clover-
dale, the stages of the celebrated driver "Foss"
make a detour to the Petrified Trees, when
tickets include this interesting spot. The fare



to the Geysers and return is 813.00. To go one
and return the other route will cost 816.00.

As the time of tourists is variously limited, it
is well to say that the time required for all the
trips above described is eleven days, allowing
two days for Monterey and Santa Cruz. Not
all persons have so much time to spend. By
omitting the visit to Santa Cruz and White
Sulphur Springs, one may save two days, and
by omitting, also, the trip to Mt. Diablo, the
western addition to the city, and the United
States Mint, one may save three days more, start-
ing for the Geysers, after spending three day a in
the city and seeing the Cliff House, Golden Gate
Park, Woodward's Gardens, climbing Telegraph
Hill and Clay Street Hill, seeing the Mission
and southwestern part of the city, and passing
most of a day in Oakland. Should one do this,
it would be well to fill out the day begun in
Oakland, by going through Van Ness Avenue,
which is, and long will be, the finest street for
private residences in the city. Two days more
will enable one to visit the Geysers, and thus, in
seven days, all that is most notable in and about
San Francisco, will have been seen.

Tourists who have time enough for it will find
a trip to Pescadero, very pleasant. The route is
by stage from San Mateo or Redwood City, on
the Southern Pacific Railroad, across the Contra
Costa Range, a ride very well paying of itself
for the whole cost of the trip. Pescadero is in &
narrow valley, about three miles from the
famous Pebble Beach, about 100 yards long,
which gives it its chief attraction. Most home-
like quarters and delightful cooking are found
at Swanton's, and one will be taken to the beach
and brought back from it at hours of his own
choosing. At this beach one will linger and
linger, picking up finely-polished pebbles, many
of which are fit to be set as jewels. Pescadero
may be reached also by stage from Santa Cruz,
and the ride along the coast is wild, interesting,
unique and full of interest. The time required
is a day, whether coming from San Francisco or
Santa Cruz, and the same to return, and no one
will spend less than a day there, so that to see
Pescadero means three days, and there are few
more enjoyable ways to spend so much time.

Climate. The climate of San Francisco is
peculiar, and can not be described in a few
words. It is equable on the whole, there being
no great range of temperature, and the diffei'ence
between that of winter and summer being smalL
Rain falls only in the winter half of the year,
and does not much exceed one-half of the amount
in the same latitude on the Atlantic shore, and
the number of rainy days is very small, since it
is apt to rain hard if it rains at all. The atmos-
phere in winter is quite moist, and though it is
seemingly dry in summer, during the long ab-
sence of rain, pianos and furniture, and wood'
work generally do not shrink as in many places,



278



wing, doubtless, to the prevailing cool winds
:om the ocean. It is rarely cold enough for
frost ; plumber's work needs no protection, and
hot days are equally rare, occurring only when
the summer ocean winds yield for two, or at most
three days, to winds from over parched and heated
plains to the north. The air is rarely clear so as
to reveal distinctly the outlines of hill and shore
across the bay, a misty haze like that of eastern
Indian summer, usually prevailing. After rains,
and notably after frosts, and during the preva-
lence of winds from the north this sometimes
vanishes, and a crystal clearness of atmosphere
succeeds, in which 'Mount Diablo and the hills of
Contra Costa and Alameda stand out mellow and
clear as though just at hand. At such times,
which are not frequent, and at others, more often,
when it is sunshiny and the air is calm, and
the haze thin, there is a spring and vitality and
exhilaration in the air, and beauty in all out-
door nature not often surpassed. Something of
this is realized in the early part of most summer
days, if fog does not hang over the city. As the
day advances, the wind from the ocean rises and
pours in mightily, cold and fierce a bane and a
blessing at once ; a bane because it destroys all
enjoyment ot out-door existence, but a blessing
because bearing away noxious exhalations, and
securing health even to the most crowded and
neglected quarters and thoroughfares.

There are few days in San Francisco when it
is safe to dispense with outer wrappings, and
when a fire is not needed morning and evening,
both for health and comfort, and fewer yet when
a room with the sun shining into it is not amply
warm enough while it shines. Sunshine is
therefore earnestly coveted, and many are the
regrets of those who do not enjoy it. It is rare
for persons to seek the shady side of the street,
instinct suggests the contrary. Rooms are ad-
vertised as sunny, and many are so described
which are sunny only a small part of the day.
But whether the sun shines or not, it is never
safe to sit by open windows or on door-steps
without shawls, hats, or overcoats. Strangers do
it sometimes, but never do it very long. San
Francisco is not the place for out-door pleasur-
ing. Bright and sunshiny and beautiful as it
often is without doors, one prefers to look upon
it from within, and if deciding to go out must
wrap up almost as for a winter ride or walk in
the older States.

San Francisco has few pleasure resorts. Seal
Rocks, at the mouth of the Golden Gate, attract
many to ride to the Cliff House, and gaze at sea-
lions gamboling and snorting and basking on its
sides. It is a beautiful ride thence south on the
beach a couple of miles to the Ocean House, and
thence back to the city by Lake Merced.



Golden Gate Park is, however, the chief resort
for pleasure. It is new, and its charms and
beauty cannot be expected to equal those of
Central Park, in New York City, but much has
been done already, and the promise for time to
come is ample. The reclamation of sand wastes
and dunes by planting yellow lupin and their
conversion into beautiful grass-plots is a notable
feature of the success already attained, which
elicits the admiration of all who contrast what
they see in the park with the proof of what it
was once, shown in the still shifting sands
around it. The park embraces about 1,100 acres,
and when the thousands and ten thousands of
trees planted in it have gained their growth,
which they are doing almost too fast for belief,
and other improvements in progress are carried
out, it will rank among the most attractive and
admired city parks on the Continent. It is
reached by several streets leading west from Mar-
ket, but rzost of the many drivers and riders
who resort there find their way either by Turk,
Golden Gate Avenue (formerly Tyler Street)
Golden Gate Avenue is the great thoroughfare
or McAllister Street.

A favorite resort is also Woodward's Gardens.
They are private property, and a quarter of a dollar
is charged for entrance. It is a pleasant place
to pass a half day visiting the collection of
various living animals and birds, among which
are camels born in the garden, and sea-lions
caught in the Pacific, and paid for at the rate
of seventy-five cents a pound. One big fellow, a
captive for seven years, has grown to weigh over
a ton. Sea-lions can be better studied at Wood-
ward's than at Seal Rock, especially at the hour
they are fed, when they do some fearful leaping
and splashing. There are fine collection? also of
stuffed birds, and other curiosities, hot-houses
with tropical plants, aquaria not surpassed on
this Continent, a skating rink, and many other
attractive features. The grounds are spacious
and well sheltered, and a pleasanter spot cannot
be found within the city limits for whiling away
a few houv= The city line of horse-cars leads
to the gardens rom Market Street Ferry to
Mission Street, oil which the gardens front.
They cover .over six acres, and almost eveiy
taste can be suited somewhere in them. The
active and jolly can resort to the play-ground
and gymnasium, and those who like quiet, will
find shady nooks and walks ; those fond of sights
and curiosities can spend hours in the various
cabinets, and those who like to study mankind,
can gaze on the groups standing around, and
streaming passers-by. Through the whole sea-
son, from April to November, it is always genial
and sunny, and enjoyable there.



279



THE




These queer looking people, with loose gar-
ments, umbrella hats, or skull-caps, rags for
hose, pantaloons made ankle tight by tapes ;
wooden shoes, coppery skin, high cheek-bones,
almond eyes, half-shaved heads, jet black hair,
and dangling pig-tails, are the hated of the
Paddy, the target of hoodlums ; the field of the
missionary, the bomb for the politician to ex-
plode, and the sinew for capital. They are
called the essence of all that is vicious, villain-
ous, and certainly are opinionated. They are
everywhere ; even the boys say they cannot throw
stones without hitting them, but they are to be
best seen in the Chinese quarters of San Fran-
cisco, from Pacific Street, the " Barbary Coast,"
to Sacramento Street, and from Kearney to
Stockton, five squares by two, in the heart of
the oldest part of the city.

Although in every block, and near every door,
their special quarter is almost like a city of the
"Middle Flowery Kingdom" set right down in
our midst. Streets and alleys, and labyrinthian
windings, not only such as we tread, are theirs ;
but,they live and travel under ground and over
roofs, up and down, until the cunning policeman
is outwitted in following them; and all their
streets and by-ways are swarming with human
or inhuman inhabitants, but little less numerous
than the rats and the vermin. Cellars and lofts
seem equally good for either lodgings, factories,
shops, or laundries, and apartments of ordinary
height are cut in two with a ladder to ascend to
the loft, reminding us of the log-cabin days in
the back-woods, or the wild frontier.

Buildings are made more capacious by rude
balconies from the second stories, that almost
touch over the narrow passages beneath. The
Globe Hotel, corner of Jackson and Dupont
Streets, three stories high, with about 60 rooms,
is inhabited by about 1,500 Celestials, and the
heads of the Chinamen in their bunks, must



look like the cells of a honey-comb. Steamship
hold, cemetery vault, Roman catacomb, or
Egyptian pyramid could hardly be better
packed.

Health. The narrow streets are wide enough
for hucksters, wood-piles, chicken-coops, tempo-
rary pig-pens, baskets and poles, and all sorts of
foul rubbish, and just wide enough for our
noses. These streets may center in open courts
that reek in filth, or lead one from treading
where death-dealing vapors ooze through the
loose boards on which he walks, to dwellings,
where the floors are easily lifted to secure sewer
accommodations in pools or vats beneath ; but
with all this, the Chinamen seem to thrive best,
and huddle closest where it is darkest and most
dismal, and where sunlight never enters.
Leprosy is said to exist, but if competent medi-
cal authorities have so pronounced any of their
loathsome diseases, it is not generally known,
or else the leprosy is not of a contagious
character.

There are loathsome diseases among them, and
especially among the prostitutes, by which even
small boys are infected, but no wide-spread
pestilence has ever been known among them,
and the death-rate is not excessive.

Their funeral customs and places of burial
make*he concealment of the dead far more un-
likely than when some victim is chopped to pieces
and stowed away a la practices not unknown to
American criminals.

Inoculation in chUJren is almost tmiversa.,
and small-pox has j.oo prevailed alarmingly in
the Chinese quarter of the city.

Personal Habits. Notwithstanding their
foul habitations, they seem to come out of
their filth as the eel from his skin, with a per-
sonal cleanliness that is marvelous, and to most
incredible. So far as the secret of their anoma-
lous health and personal cleanliness can be de-



280



tected, it is in their practice of daily ablution.
They bathe as if it were a sacred duty, and in
Washington Territory will cut through the
winter ice to find the necessary water, and the
tooth-brush is a daily companion.

The cue is regarded with patriotic pride. It



Online LibraryFrederick E ShearerThe Pacific tourist : J.R. Bowman's illustrated trans-continental guide of travel, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ... : acomplete traveler's guide of the Union and Central Pacific Railroads ... → online text (page 44 of 61)