Frederick E Shearer.

The Pacific tourist : J.R. Bowman's illustrated trans-continental guide of travel, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ... : acomplete traveler's guide of the Union and Central Pacific Railroads ... online

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Online LibraryFrederick E ShearerThe Pacific tourist : J.R. Bowman's illustrated trans-continental guide of travel, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ... : acomplete traveler's guide of the Union and Central Pacific Railroads ... → online text (page 49 of 61)
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the road ascends from the river to an extensive
mountain basin, walled in by yet loftier moun-
tains a sort of semicircular wall from Scott's
Mountain on the north to Trinity on the west and
Castle Rock on the south-east. On the east side
of the road, and in this great basin, Mt. Shasta
rears its lofty head into the dark, deep blue of

This delightful region is of easy access ; and

while the Yosemite Valley is reckoned the most
wonderful attraction of nature in California, it
is surpassed in many respects by Mt. Shasta.
Shasta has an elevation of 14,444 feet, according
to Professor Whitney, and that of Mt. Blanc is
but 15,739 feet. Mt." Whitney is the only moun-
tain in the United States known to be higher
and that by only 500 feet. But Mt. Whitney is
flanked by numerous other mountains nearly as
high, while Shasta rises about 11,000 feet above
the surrounding country on every side.

Mt. Whitney and Mt. Lyell have glaciers of
feeble vitality, but Shasta has three, each living
and accessible. It is the only mountain in Amer-
ica where glacial phenomena may be carefully
studied with trifling exertion.

Mt. Shasta has two peaks, one called the Cra-
ter Peak, although both were active volcanoes at
a former day. The Crater Peak, Professor Whit-
ney said in 1865, was " believed by many to be
quite inaccessible. Its sides appear to be covered
with loose volcanic materials, probably ashes,
lying at the highest angle possible without slid-
ing down." Now it is frequently climbed, its
sides being covered with blocks of trachyte of
all sizes, which have broken from the crater
walls above. They slip down and retard the
climbing, but the footing is secure In the steepest
places. Only a few feet below the summit on
the main peak, and above glaciers and ice-fields,
there are springs of boiling water and juts of
i constantly escaping steam, all strongly impreg-
nated with sulphur. It was these that kept
John Muir and his guide, Jerome Fay, from per-
ishing when a storm overtook them on the sum-
mit and compelled them to spend a night there.
They froze on one side and roasted on the other.

The panorama from the summit is beyond de-
scription. The view takes in the whole of Cal^
ifornia from the Coast Range to the Sierra
Nevadas, and from the Bay of San Francisco far
beyond the Oregon boundary not less than 450
miles. It is probably unsurpassed in the world.
Once the writer stood upon the summit in July,
and there lay around him 100 square miles of
snow. Often rolling masses of fleecy clouds shut
out all below, and one is left as in the very cham-
ber of heaven. As one climbs the mountain he
will hear the water gurgling through the loose
rocks, fed by the melting sjiows, but no stream
flows directly from the Butte. A journey of 100
miles around the cone may be made without
crossing a stream or finding a spring.

The ascent of Shasta is full of interest to every
lover of nature. The flora is remarkable, and has
attracted to it in person such eminent scientists
as Sir Joseph Hooker and Asa Gray. The ascent of
the mountain is always made from Sisson's, a
charming hotel in Strawberry Valley, Siskiyou
County, California, one of the best and cheapest
places of resort in the State. Horses, guides,


blankets, and provisions are furnished. If there
are three in the party the cost will be $15 each,
and $20 if only one. The trip reqxiires 36 hours.
The first night is spent camping at the upper
edge of the pinus flexilis and the lower edge of
the snow, at an elevation of about 10, 000 feet. La-
dies have occasionally made the ascent, and any
strong able-bodied man or woman can do so. It
is difficult, but not dangerous.

Mr. Sisson has erected a house on the sum-
mit of the mountain, in whicli tourists may
spend the night.

Besides Mt. Shasta there are hundreds of inter-
esting places to visit or to see. The Black Butte,
called the Black Cone by the Geological Survey,
is a sugar-loaf mass of trachyte more than 6000
feet above the sea, with an outline in the horizon
as regular as it would' seem an axe could hew it.
It is in striking contrast with the deep blue azure
and the bright green of Strawberry Valley.

Castle Rock seen from the stage-road is a
wonderful uplift of granite, perhaps surpassing
every thing of the kind outside of Yosemite
Valley, and strongly resembling the Sentinel

Castle Lake, Picayune Lake, the Big Spring,
" The Falls" on the banks of the Sacramento
River, and the Palls of the McCloud River are all
sources of surpassing interest. No region of
California is so varied in its attractions. Yosem-
ite is a place to see, Mt. Shasta, is a place to

The hunting and fishing are unsurpassed in
California. The waters are filled with trout and
salmon. On the McCloud River the trout weigh
from half a pound to three pounds, and the Dolly
Varden species, with bright red spots on the side,
weigh from one pound to twelve pounds. The
McCloud is a glacial stream, and the Dolly Var-
^lens are found only in such. Castle Lake and
this river are the best trout and salmon fly-fishing
places in the State.

The hunting is no less attractive than the fish-
ing. Grizzly bears are not found in the region,
but the black, the brown, and the cinnamon are
numerous. The puma or cougar is sometimes
found, and the lynx and two ^ther species of

Deer are so numeroms that a crack shot need
have no difficulty in bringing down at least one
every day. There are three varieties, the mule,
black-tailed, and white-tailed. Grouse, mountain-
quail, and squirrels are numerous, and mountain
sheep and antelope are found at no great distance.
Parties provided with guns can be fitted out for
hunting elk, antelope, deer, or mountain-sheep
in Oregon, and provided with competent guides
by Sisson. The region is full of mineral springs,
there being several in the vicinity of Sisson 's, and
one of the best at Campbell's formerly Fry's on
the stage-road, 8 miles south of Sisson 's. The wa-

ter is ice cold, strongly effervescent, and charged
with soda, iron, and salt. Campbell's hotel
is excellent. Parties are fitted out for fishing in
either the McCloud River or Castle Lake at both
Campbell's and Sisson's, and at both places
guides are to be had. Board is $10 a week at
both places, saddle-horses $2 a day, and guides
with horse, $5 a day.

Those who desire a more detailed account of
this wonderful region should consult Clarence
King's "Mountaineering in the High Sierras,"
or " Calif ornian Pictures, by Benjamin Parke

Mt. Shasta is reached from Sacramento by
the Oregon Division of the Central Pacific
Railroad to its terminus at Redding; thence by
the California and Oregon Stage Line, sixty-
nine miles to Campbell's Soda Springs, and
seventy -seven miles to Sisson's, both of these
points being on the direct overland stage route
from California to Oregon.

Excursion tickets, good for thirty days, ait-
sold from San Francisco to Campbell's or Sis-
son's for $35.40.

The Geysers.

Tourists will find the trip to the Geysers the
most interesting and easy of all the short ex-
cursions in the State. It is well to go by one
route and return via another. The North
Pacific Railroad will convey the passengers to
Cloverdale, where stages are taken. The ride
to the Geysers is over a splendid road amid
beautiful mountain scenery, and occasionally
there are examples of fine driving of the
stage-teams. One day at the Geysers is usually
enough, and the visitor will find it absolutely
necessary to rise as early as 5 or 6 A. M., to see
the finest display of steam from the Geysers.

The ground literally boils and bubbles under
the feet. There are devil's inkstands, and cal-
drons, and tea-kettles, and whistles enough to
overwhelm eyes, ears, smell, taste and touch with
horrid reminiscences. Yet so great is the curios-
ity it should not be missed. Neither must the
traveler omit the enjoyment of the natural
steam bath, the sensation on emerging from
which is most delicious. From the Geysers to
Calistoga, the celebrated Foss drives a crack
stage, and usually has his spanking team of six-
in-hand. Reports are strong as to his fearless
driving, but a glance at the way he beautifully
manages his leaders and wheelers, gives no one any
anxiety as to safety. The stage route is over
very great heights, up the side of long mount-
ains, from the summits of which the views are
glorious, probably to many, more enjoyable than
the Geysers.

The tourist must not fail, as he returns to San
Francisco, to visit the PETRIFIED FOREST, where
numerous petrified trees imbedded in the earth
have been recovered. Some of these were


giants of the forest, and some were turned to
charcoal before being changed to stone.

There are two routes to the Geysers, one, the
California Pacific Railroad va Napa Valley; the
other, via the North Pacific Bailroad and Rus-
sian River Valley. Round trip ticket, to return
by same route, $13.00; to return by different
route, $16.00.

Foss' Stage Line from the Geysers to Calis-
toga separates at Foss Station, and passengers
for the Petrified Trees make a detour to these
without losing a train to the city.

Lake County and Mineral Springs.

Lake County is accessible from either Calis-
toga or Cloverdale, by a stage-ride of about
twenty miles, and is literally full of health and
pleasure resorts, including many noted mineral
springs, beautiful scenery and plenty of fish and
game. Clear Lake is about twenty miles long,
and eight -wide. Its immediate surroundings
are much lower than Tahoe. On the lake are
famous soda and borax deposits, sulphur banks
and quicksilver mines. At the lower end of the
lake is Soda Water Bay, where an immense
volume of soda water is pushed above the sur-
face of the lake. The hotel is a lovely retreat,
with baths of natural soda water, and other
first-class accommodu >ns.

Bassett'c, in Cobb V. ;y, the hotels in Lake-
port, the chief town on the lake, and Graham's,
on the "Blue Lakes," two twin gems, about
twelve miles from Lakeport, are noted pleasure
resorts. Among the mineral springs, are Har-
bin 's, Anderson's, Adams', Highland, Pierson's,
Witter's, Ziegler's, Howard's, Bartletfs, Aliens
and Hough's. At all of these, remarkable cures
have been effected. Five hundred have been at
Bartlett's at one time. Harbin's is quite popular.
Witter's is located amid charming views. Via
Calistoga is the most direct route to Harbin's,
Anderson's and Bassett's and Adams', and via
Davisville and Williams (Northern Rail way), the
most direct to Bartlett's, Allen's, Hough's, and
via Cloverdale to the other points.

The White Sulphur, long the most fashionable
mineral springs in the State, are near St. Helena
on the California Pacific Railroad. On the same
route are the Calistoga, "Mud," "Soup, "Hot
and Cold Springs, and the much used Napa
Natural Soda Spring, the Vallejo Sulphur
Spring. Skagg's Springs, near Geyseryille on
the North Pacific Railroad, have beautiful sur-
roundings. The hotel, Litton Springs, on the
same railroad, is converted into a boarding-
school. South of San Francisco, to be reached
by the Northern Division of the Southern Pacific
Railroad, are Congress Springs, near San Jose,
Gilroy Hot Springs, Paraiso Springs, near
Soledad, and near San Luis Obispo, the Paso
Robles, Mud and other springs, the most noted

used. GRAINS





Bicarbonate Soda,



Carbonate Magnesia,




Carbonate Lime,



Chloride Sodium,
Sub-Carbon Iron,



Carbo'ic Acid (comb.), 42.76
Chlorine, ... - - 78.38

Sulphate Soda, .


Sulphate Acid, .

. . 2.36

Silicious Acid, .


Si'i.'ic Acid, . .

. . 2.02


Oxide Iron, . .

. . 2.85



Lime, ....
VI amnesia

. . 4.41

fiR 7fi

So<ia, . ' . . .

62 19



Chloride Sodium,



Sulphate So la. .
Carbonate S >da,
'* Iron,


Borauic Acid,

. 27.38

" Lime,


Organic matter,

Silica Alumina and
trace Magnesia,




in the State. On the Central Pacific, near the
summit, are the charming Summit Soda Springs,
one of the most refreshing mountain retreats on
the coast. Near Mission, San Jose, are the cele-
brated Warm Springs, the property of Governor
Stanford, and not now opened to the public.
The following is an analysis of the waters most

The quantity of free carbonic acid in the Lit-
ton Seltzer, which escapes on standing, is 383.75
grains per gallon. This large quantity of gas
is very pleasant to the taste, and tests severely
the strength of bottles, which sometimes explode
even in a cool place.

The Paso Roble Springs (the name means
Pass of Oaks) most used, have been analyzed
with the following result :


Temperature 1 10, 122 degrees.

One imperial gallon con-
tains, Sulphurated Hy-
drogen Gas, ..... 4.55 3.28 inches.

Free Carbonic Acid, . . 10.50 47.84 "

Sulphate Lime 3.21 17.90 grains.

Sulphate Potash, ... 88 trace*.

Sulphate Soda, .... 7.85 41.11

Perox Iron, 36

Alumina, 22

Silicia, 44 1.11

Bicarbonate Magnesia, . 92 Carbon. Mag., 3 10

Bicarbonate Soda, . . . 50.74 Carbon. Soda, 5.21

Chloride Sodium, . . . 27.18 96.48

lodi'e and Bromide trac'?.

Organic Matter 64 3.47

Total solid contents, . 93.44 168.38

The Mud Spring contains also alumina and
protoxide of iron. There are also three cold sul-
phur springs and three other hot springs, the hot-
test of the temperature of 140 degrees. There is,
also, a chalybeate spring. Paso Robles is re-
sorted to with good results by persons suffering
from rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, and some
constitutional disorders. They are no place for

Near San Bernardino are the Arrowhead,
near Riverside, the Ternescal Warm, and near
Santa Barbara, the Santa Barbara Warm Springs,
besides many others in different parts of the



Santa Cruz. One of the most enjoyable of
seaside resorts, and abounding in garden bloom
and floral beauty, is now reached by three
routes of travel, by steamer from San Francisco,
usually taking a few hours or a day at utmost;
by The Southern Pacific Railroad to Pojaro, and
its branch to Santa Cruz, and lastly by the new
South Pacific Coast Narrow Gauge Railroad via
San Jose and over the Coast Eange of Moun-
tains. The last named is a new road of exceed-
ing beauty. Probably there is no finer ride of
a day's length equal to this.

Santa Barbara is beyond question, a gem
city of the Pacific Coast as a resort for tourists
and invalids. It may be reached by the Southern
Pacific Railroad and a stage ride of one day, or
by steamer of two days. It is a city of most
attractive nature embowered among gardens,
fruit trees, flowers, and wonderful luxuriance
of semi-tropical vegetation and cultured people.
This place is full of admirable conveniences of
hotel life, and invalids and tourists reside the
year, in enjoyment of its balmy air. For a
home residence, probably no place on the Pacific
Coast is its equal in all advantages of climate,
health and social privileges. In the spring-time,
when the country is in bloom, the finest route
is by stage from Soledad. The country is then
a paradise of floral loveliness the entire distance.

Half Moon Bay, on the coast fourteen miles
south of the Golden Gate; Pescadero, about
forty miles from the city, and Soquel and Aptos,
on Monterey Bay, are all patronized for bath-
ing, and San Diego has been celebrated from
the earliest days for its equable climate and
natural advantages.

Monterey. *

Of all the sea-side resorts this is the most
charming, delightfully situated, 125 miles
from San Francisco, on the Bay of Monte-
rey, which is 28 miles wide. This historic
pot was reached in December, 1601, and posses-
sion taken in the name of the King of Spain, and
named after Gaspar de Zuniga, Count of Mon-
terey and Viceroy of Mexico at the time.

In the fall of 1769 Gaspar de Portala, governor
of Lower California, came overland from San
Diego with two priests and 63 soldiers and erected
Portala' s Cross (immortalized by Bret Harte), in
the vicinity. In June, 1770, Father Junipero
Serra, a Franciscan, erected another cross and
joined in hoisting the royal standard of Spain.
It was one of the most nourishing places on the
coast from that time until after California be-
came a state in the Union.

The stars and stripes were hoisted by Commo-
dore Sloat July 7, 1846, and Monterey, long the
capital of the Spanish and Mexican province,
was the capital of the new state. With the re-
moval of the capital to San Jose it entered on a

Rip Van Winkle sleep, which continued until
but recently.

A few years ago the Pacific Grove Retreat was
formed, designed primarily to furnish a cheap
and attractive summer resort for ministers of all
denominations and their families, with all the
advantages of sea-bathing. But the new Hotel
del Monte, built in modern Gothic or Eastlake
style, is the finest on the Pacific Coast outside
of San Francisco, and the finest sea-side hotel
in the world, and its throng of visitors has
given a new life to the place. This hotel accom-
modates, in first-class style, 400 guests, and has
all modern conveniences and appliances. It is
385 by 115 feet, and three stories high one an
attic story. The house is elegantly furnished,
and the grounds, consisting of 106 acres, are
entirely closed, and beautifully wooded with
pine, oak, cedar, cypress, English walnut, etc.

A swimming-bath alone has been erected at a
cost of $30,000, and in the transformation of the
ancient but dead capital to the chief resort of
the coast, not less than half a million dollars
have been expended.

The climate is unsurpassed, as may be seen
in the comparison of statistics in the "Hints
to Invalids, and Climate," on page 293.

The sea bathing is the best on the coast north
of Point Conception, the beach being especially
favorable. Mr. W. H. Dailey, the champion
swimmer of the Pacific Coast, who knows all
the beaches from San Francisco to Santa Monica,
wrote December 15, 1879: " i find it an easy,
sloping beach of fine sand; no gravel, no stones
anywhere below high-water mark. I consider
the beach here the finest on the Pacific Coast.
I was in the water an hour yesterday, and found
it, even at this time of the year, none too cold
for enjoyable bathing. " There are also hot and
cold salt-water baths, in a bathing-house on the

Monterey is reached by ocean steamers, and
also by the Southern Pacific Railroad, Northern
Division. An afternoon express train, with par-
lor cars, makes the run from San Francisco in
four hours, and returns in the morning. The
fare for the round trip is only $5.00.

Other Health and Pleasure Resorts are justly
celebrated, such as Duncan's Mills, the terminus
of the North Pacific Coast Railroad on Russian
River, at the mouth of Austin Creek, and three
miles from the ocean. This is a choice place
for hunting, and it has at times good salmon
and trout-fishing.

Los Angeles, Anaheim, Orange, Wilmington,
and the noted San Gabriel Valley are preferred
by consumptives to Florida. These are all on
or near the Southern Pacific Overland route.

Lake Tahoe, Donner Lake and Weber Lake
near the C. P. Overland route will, of course,
not be forgotten.

In the town are many objects of interest, such


as the Catholic church, built 1794, with old
paintings of much merit; the old block-house
and fort; the Cuartel, on California Street; Cot-
ton Hall; the old custom-house, etc. ; the light-
house on Point Pinos, three miles west of the
town, with a Fresnel light of the third order;
the Moss Beach; Seal Bocks; Cypress Point
and Carmel Mission.

The last is four miles south of Monterey, on
Carmel Creek, a beautiful, picturesque spot. It
was founded by Father Junipero Serra, June 3,
1770. In 1825, the Mission had 90,000 cattle,
50,000 sheep, 2,000 horses, 2, 000 calves, 370 yoke
of oxen, $50,000 in merchandise and $40,000 in
silver all of which, ten years later, was con-
verted to secular uses by decree of the Mexican
Government. The old ruins of the church are
full of interest, and in the yard near it lie the
remains of fifteen governors of the province and
State, as well as the tomb of Junipero Serra.

Seven thousand acres of land owned by the
company, an excellent race-track, and fifty
miles of graveled roads afford fine drives and
hunting and fishing that cannot be excelled.

The table of temperature of Monterey was
kept in 1874 by Dr. E. K. Abbot, a correspon-
dent of the United States Signal Service; that
for San Francisco by many parties, and is a
mean of three years ; Los Angeles by W. H. Broed-
rick (for 1871), who took observations four times
& day for seven years. The Santa Barbara

record is for 1869, and was kept by officers of
the Coast Survey. The Santa Monica record is
for 1846, and was kept by Dr. W. S. King, of
the army, in 1853. The Fort Yuma record was
kept by officers of the army in 1851. ' All others
are taken from notes of travelers or from books
written always from standpoints friendly to
the respective places, and sometimes by en-

The following carefully-prepared table presents
the mean temperature of Monterey and many other
health-resorts and places throughout the world.










Degs. Mia.
36 36

San Francisco, ....
Los Angeles




37 48
34 04

Santa Barbara, ....





34 24
32 41

Santa Monica, ....
Sacramento .....




. 34 0<)
38 34




37 56





38 05




32 43




39 06

New York,




40 37




29 67





40 62




21 16




32 38




43 71




44 24

City of Mexico, . . .







19 26
30 50
30 05

Santa Cruz




37 00



The Old Overland Route, or Sacramento to San
' Francisco, via Stockton, Lathrop, Liver-
more Pass and Niles.

Leaving Sacramento by this route, now a part
of the Central Pacific Bailroad, but formerly
the Western Pacific, we do not cross the Sacra-
mento Biver, but go along its bank until we
pass most of the city and then leave the river,
for higher land some distance back. We reach

UriffMon, 134 miles from -an Francisco,
where the Sacramento Valley Railroad leaves
the main track. This road extends to Folsom,
22 miles,-where it connects with the Sacramento
Valley and Placerville Railroad, to Shingle
Springs 26 miles, whence daily stages leave for
Placerville, 58 miles from Sacramento. The old
town of Brighton was on the Sacramento River
opposite the present station, and on the old
Placerville road.

California Wind-Mills. As you pass
along you notice numerous windmills, of various
sizes and styles, whirling away to fill reservoirs for
household wants, or irrigate the vineyards or
orchards and gardens, if any there be. They are
common in all the valleys and plains of Cali-
fornia, and numerous in the cities. The sobri-
quet of Stockton is the " Windmill City."

About California farms there is usually no
garden. Perhaps a few vegetables are raised
during the winter. In some localities certain
fruits or vegetables do not grow well, and the
farmer who has twenty or a hundred head of
horses, before his gang-plows, or harvesting his
wheat or barley, has no time for gardening and
prefers to depend upon the daily visits of the
vegetable wagon as well as the butcher. And
among our cosmopolitan people, the only class we
lack is the farming women of the Mohawk Val-
ley, or the Pennsylvania Dutch.

Florin is 131 miles from San Francisco,

a flag station side track, store and post-office.
The hard pan is near the surface, and therefore
but little moisture retained from the most
copious winter rains. Trees cannot send down
their roots until this hard pan is broken through
for them.

Elk Grove, 123 miles from San Francisco.
In early days the hunter here could find large

Online LibraryFrederick E ShearerThe Pacific tourist : J.R. Bowman's illustrated trans-continental guide of travel, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ... : acomplete traveler's guide of the Union and Central Pacific Railroads ... → online text (page 49 of 61)