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Ham Mukasa.

Uganda's Katikiro in England; being the official account of his visit to the coronation of His Majesty King Edward VII online

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and we went along through crowds of people stand-
ing in the streets; some got on the tops of the houses
and looked down on us as we passed, to see who they
were who were coming in such state : we saw the women
lifting up their little children and running with them
that they might see what we were like ; there were a
great many people, young and old, men and women.
At last we reached the factory in which the Lord Mayor
was interested, and, after writing our names in the visitors'
book, were taken to see all the work they did ; because
in this city they make different kinds of things, such
as wheels and axles for railway carriages, bullets for
cannon, screws for ships, and plates for ships through
which bullets cannot pass, and a great many other
things which are not explainable in Luganda. We
saw also a machine for lifting other iron things, which
would lift 2,560 frasila, or, as they call it, forty tons,
and were very much astonished at it. After this we
asked if we might go away, as we were very tired



Sbefffelfc 159

indeed, and they begged us to stop and have some
tea ; but we refused, as it was past our time for going
home, and we wanted to rest. If you agreed to
everything the English beg you to do, you would get
ill and die a sudden death, because they are so kind
they want you to see everything, and to talk to them
all day long ; and so their kindness tires you before
you know it, and you are like a reed which is burning
at both ends and so gets burned right up quickly.

They took us away in state with our policemen in
front, and we arrived at the house of Archdeacon Eyre,
where we were going to stop. He is a very kind man,
very tall and big, and has eight children. At four
o'clock the Lord Mayor wrote down for us the names
of the places which we were going to see on the morrow,
and said he would call for us at nine o'clock that is
to say, three o'clock in Uganda reckoning.

The next morning, July 23rd, we went to see the
factories where they make knives and metal tea-pots,
and spoons, and forks, and metal plates, and razors,
and where various things are made of ivory, tortoiseshell,
and horns of animals, and hoofs of horses, though we
did not see any of these last, but were only told
that horses' hoofs were used. However, we saw all
these other things that I have mentioned, and saw
also how they broke up a kind of stone which is like that
which we have on the Sese Islands, and reduced it to
powder, and then added water and made it into bricks.



160 Tflattoa's "ftatihiro in



All this work is done by machinery ; the only work done
by hand is to take away the bricks. When they have
dug out the stones they put them in boxes which are
fastened on to a long chain, which is very cleverly made
and is driven round and round, and so carries away
the boxes and brings them back again without stopping ;
the machine which drives the chains round is also very
clever. In the building is a great deal of machinery
of different kinds : there is one machine which grinds
the stone to powder, and another which breaks up stones
as large as those we use for putting our cooking-pots
on over the fire is not this a wonderful thing ? even
if they put in three stones at once, it breaks them all
up. When it has finished it passes them on to the
machine which breaks up small stones, and when this
one has finished with them it sends them on to the
machine which grinds them to powder, and this one
in its turn to the machine which mixes the powder
with water ; this last passes the material on
to the machine which pounds it up till it looks
like clay. Then it goes on to one which makes it
up into a long roll, and then to a machine
which cuts this roll up into pieces, and last
to another that moulds these, and they come" out
very fine bricks indeed. The machinery never gets
tired ; the only things that get tired are the workmen
who put in the stuff. As each brick comes out it
is taken into a warm chamber, where it dries in the



a 1knife*3f acton? l61

heat of the fire, not in the heat of the sun. When it
is thoroughly dry it is taken to a chamber in which
a fire is made, and there it is thoroughly burnt and
becomes like a stone in hardness. This is the way in
which we saw them making bricks.

We saw that the people in this town were very pleased
to see us ; a great many children, perhaps as many as
three hundred, collected together at the brickworks
and sang a fine song in praise of the King when he is
crowned (" God save the King "). It was a very fine
hymn, and made one shake one's head in time with the
music, it was so fine ; and we were very pleased in-
deed with these children.

We next went to see the knife factory, and when we
arrived we saw that each man had his particular work :
some forged the knives, others put them in the handles,
others sharpened them, others polished them, others
stamped the writing on them, others packed them away
each work had its particular workmen, all engaged
in the one work of knife-making ; and this is the same
with all kinds of work each operation has its own
set of workmen, and we were amazed at all the different
things the English make, as I have told you before.
The building was full of rooms, in each of which
different kinds of work were being done. We also saw
the great store of ivory which is used for making the
handles of knives, and a great many beautiful things
which they make ; we saw one knife with seventy

ii



1 62 IHoatrta'0 ikntihiio in

blades, the value of which was two thousand poi;
and a blade of every new kind of knife which they
invent each year they put into this one handle, each
year and the corresponding blade. After seeing all this,
they gave each of us a knife, and we went back to
Archdeacon Eyre's house and rested.

After we had rested a little we were taken to see a
building in which all kinds of work done by ladies were
shown, work which they had done with their own hands.
We found a great many ladies there who had come to
see what other ladies had done, and to praise them,
and to thank them for what they had done, and to say
how it pleased them. You know the English praise
very much any new inventions, and that is the reason
they get wiser every year. Were it possible, it would
be a good thing for us to do the same, and praise the
work done by clever men in our country, so that they
should be pleased and go on and invent something else
another year ; but it is difficult to learn to do this all at
once. However, a city is not built in a day, and takes a
long time, and so also one cannot learn all the wisdom of
the English in a short time, but must do it slowly.
" He who goes slowly goes far."

After we had sat down, our friend Lord Mayor G.
Senior stood up and told those who did not know how
we had come to see this exhibition, and when he had
finished Archdeacon Eyre made a long speech, but
before him the bishop (of Sheffield) told how we had come



Meeting at tbeZTown 1ball 163

there, and also told the ladies how they ought to try and
do useful work of all kinds.

There was one very rich widow lady there, whose
husband had died and left her all his money, and she
had no child. They told us she had forty million pounds,
and there was a little child who gave this lady a basket
full of flowers. We saw there a lady making some very
beautiful cloth, and she made some for us as we were
standing by, and we were very much astonished and
thanked her very much for being so clever.

We left in great state with our policemen in front
on horseback to keep the crowd away from us, and went
to the Town Hall, where we found a great many people
had collected together to see us. Lord Mayor G. Senior
welcomed us very warmly, and asked us to stand near the
door, the reason of this being that he wanted us to greet
all the visitors, and so each one who passed shook us by
the hand. We were doing this for about half an hour,
and then were taken to the platform, and given seats
in the front, and the Lord Mayor told the people a great
deal about us and our country; and then Archdeacon
Eyre spoke for some time, and made me laugh very
much because he said I could sew very well indeed.
He had found me putting a button on my white robe,
and looked at me very carefully and asked me if I knew
how to sew, so I said that I knew a little, and that is the
reason he praised me. Truly the English make people
glad in the work they are doing : the little I was doing



164 TH0atfta'0 1<atihlro in



he praised openly, that all might know how nicelv I
could sew ; well, would not any one go on learning, so
that he could get more praise ?

After he had finished, the Katikiro spoke, and told the
people how we wanted to learn to do work of all kinds,
and wanted teachers ; teachers both of the Gospel and
also of handy work of all kinds carpenters, smiths,
builders, traders in cotton goods and other things, brick-
makers, and coffee-planters. After he had finished,
every one clapped their hands and cheered to give the
Katikiro honour, and to thank him for the good things
he had said, and for saying how pleased he was at all he
had seen, and for liking their country so much as to ask
them to send out people to teach the Baganda all kinds
of trades.

After this we had tea, and then the Lord Mayor called
us and gave each of us a knife for himself and one for
his wife ; we then went to the railway station to take
the train for Manchester, and said good-bye to all our
many friends who were there, Mr. C. W. Hattersley's
mother and daughters, and Mr. T. B. Fletcher's brother.
The Lord Mayor in his kindness went with us in state
to the railway station, and said good-bye to us when
we were in the train for Manchester, and then went
home.

My friends, we were given wonderful honour in Sheffield ;
we were like warriors who had come back from conquering
a great nation, because large numbers of people came



flDancbester a Clotb factory 165

to look at us and followed us wherever we went. We
left Sheffield at half -past five, and got to Manchester
at half-past six.

The next day, July 24th, we first went to the Town
Hall of Manchester, a very fine building, but did not go
inside it, as it was closed ; we saw, however, a great many
statues of their judges, who in English are called " Lord
Mayor." After this we went into a cloth factory, where
they make cloth of all kinds. We saw how they comb out
cotton in a great many machines ; there were about ten
different kinds of these machines which make the cotton
ready for making cloth, and about twelve more kinds to
complete the manufacture of cotton sheeting in lengths.
We saw about a thousand women at work in this cloth
factory. In a cloth factory one cannot hear what one's
companion says, even though he be quite close, on account
of the noise of the machines, which make a noise like a
large waterfall, or even a greater noise than that.

After we left the cloth factory we went to some rubber
works, and there saw about fifteen different kinds of
machines preparing the rubber. We saw how macin-
toshes are made : they take some cloth which looks
like unbleached calico, but is strong ; this they squeeze
in a machine together with rubber, and the rubber
enters into the cloth ; after they have done this they
cut up the cloth, and sew it into beautiful macintoshes
just like you see in Uganda. We saw rubber that had
come from all countries, America and Africa and other



1 66 Tfloanfca'e fcatihtro in



places. After this we said good-bye, and were each
given a rubber thing with which ladies wash their faces
in the morning.

We saw a great many other things on this day, and
saw a shop being burned ; it was a fine shop and goods
to the value of about seven hundred thousand rupees
(nearly 50,000) were destroyed. We saw how they
fight with fire ; they have a steam-engine which goes to
help and pumps up water to a great height where the
fire is ; the water comes out with great force perhaps
if they were to turn it on the people it would kill them.
The English, however, are very much afraid to go close
to a fire their cleverness makes them appear to be afraid
of it, because they stand a long way off to put it out ;
but when they are teaching the Baganda I see that
they are not at all afraid of it I am constantly seeing
how little afraid of it they are. I see that there are
many things the Baganda cannot do, but they are not
afraid of fire.

Mr. F. Taylor, the father of Mrs. H. Maddox, took
us to see all the things we saw in Manchester ; he is
a very kind man indeed as kind as his daughter.

The following day, July 25th, we went to a town
called St. Helens, to see how they make glass. We
went by train a distance of twenty-one miles from
Manchester, which is as far as from Entebbe to Kazo,
and were accompanied by Mr. F. Taylor. The manager
of the works showed us how glass is made ; we saw the



B (Blaes factory 167

sand and charcoal and limestone, which are all heated
up together in an earthen pot, and get very hot in-
deed, and the stuff appears like water. They make
a brick oven as large as a small tent, into which they
put the earthen pots ; these pots are very large and
very thick indeed their thickness is equal to the length
of one's thumb, about two inches ; well, after they
have filled these pots with the stuff I have told you
about, they run them on wheels into these ovens, and
then close the door and put in some coal which burns well,
and pipes from bellows go in at the bottom and air is
blown in so that the fire burns very strongly.

I cannot leave off praising the English. Listen !
They make a coal fire very deep down in the earth,
and from this they take pipes everywhere which give
them heat for melting iron, and all these other things,
sand and stones, which make glass all these things
are melted by the gas which comes from coals and
which burns very strongly indeed, and we wondered
with an unceasing wonder. The things of the English
are amazing !

After all the things in the pot have become liquid
they have an appointed time at which they take it out
of the oven, and then it is put on wheels and taken
to an iron table, perhaps 10 ft. wide and 15 ft. long,
and some of the liquid in it is poured out. They
seize the pot with very large iron pincers on each side
to empty it out on to this table the English are very



i68 'Uaitfa's Ikatilnro in



strong, as these pots are very heavy. Well, u
have poured it out, they bring an iron roller like tin-
trunk of a large tree, and run it up and down on this table,
and it spreads the liquid all over the table ; they then
take this off and bring another thing, with which they
cut off a part of the glass which has become hard ; the
plate is then put into an oven which has no fire in it,
but is very cold, and there it stays for a whole day and
hardens. The next morning they take it out and take
it to the workmen who take off the roughnesses ; and
when these have finished with it they pass it on to
the polishers, who make it shine ; and they pass it on to
the men who cut it up into the various shapes in which
it is required. When this is finished they put a red
substance on it, which prevents the light from passing
through it, so that one can see into it from one side
only this work is done by women ; it is next
handed on to the people who fit the glass into frames,
like you see everywhere, and the looking-glass is
complete. I have not written down all the different
kinds of work done to it, as it is difficult to describe
them all.

After seeing all this we had lunch, and then went back
home and rested for a while, and then went to see a place
where they make railway carriages that are sent every-
where some of the carriages for the Uganda railway
were made in this place ; we saw carriages of every kind,
from passenger carriages to those in which cattle travel



Crewc 169

when they go from one country to another by train ;
we saw numbers of boards, millions of them ; and then
came home. The man who took us round was going
to marry one of Mr. Taylor's daughters, and then go
out as a missionary to India ; he had been asked by
Mr. Taylor to take us round, as he had himself been
in these works for some six years, and having made
his money in them was no longer working there. In
the evening we had dinner at Mr. Taylor's house, and
there met Mrs. Taylor and her daughters.

On July 26th we went to Crewe, where they make
the " heads " for railway trains, and there met the
chief engineer, who gave us some one to show us round
the shops. We saw how they first forge large sheets
of iron, and then pierce them with a great many holes,
in which they put nails to join the fireplace to the
water-tank ; the holes for the tubes only were
about eighty in number, and the tubes themselves were
like gun-barrels. The strength of the piercing and
boring machines was immense and incomparable, be-
cause they pierce and cut through iron as thick as a
man's hand, or about four inches thick, and cut through
it as quickly as one would cut through a banana stem.
Those large nails that you see are all made in one machine,
which cuts them and works them and puts the heads
on them, and they come out complete. A man brings
a hot bar of iron and puts it into the machine, and
the machine itself does every little bit of the work.



's luitihiro in nfltan&

There were a great many machines of this kind in the
workshop.

We saw some engines just completed, and others
not yet finished, and some only just begun, and many
kinds of engines that take about trains ; for this is
the fountain-head of the strength of all trains. After
this we inquired the number of men at work in these
shops, and were told there were 7,500. We then
returned to the chief engineer's office, and they
photographed us near the '* head " of the train that
had taken us round ; we were in all Apolo Katikiro,
Rev. E. Millar, Ham Mukasa, and Mr. F. W. Webb,
the chief of the workshops, and we were photographed
in the clothes which we wore when on a journey. After
this we went to see where they store up the lightning
that gives light to the town, but when we got there we
were not clever enough to understand it, and were simply
amazed at the way they could store up in one place
power enough to give light everywhere by means of electric
lamps ; each person had a wire going to his own house,
even though it might be twenty miles off, and this wire
brought him light even though he was so far off, and
in every house, whether of a rich man or a poor man,
there was electric light. Some have light from gas
which comes out of coal, and that too comes from one
place and is spread everywhere ; the things of England
are marvellous.

After this the people of Crewe saw us off, and we got



Ikatifctro's Hbfcress 171

into the train for London and went to Hampstead to
the house of Mr. H. E. Millar, where we used to rest and
escape the noise and rush that there was in the centre
of London.

The following day, Sunday, July 27th, we went to
Christ Church, Hampstead, and then came back home
and rested. The father of Mr. C. J. Phillips, the store-
keeper of the C.M.S., Namirembe (Uganda), came to
see us, and we had a long talk with him ; he was an
elderly man, but not so big as his son, and gave us some
match-boxes as a Christmas present. In the evening
we went to a mission hall; our friend Mr. H. E. Millar
preached and also played the organ, and when he had
finished, Apolo Katikiro made a long speech, praising
the kindness of the English, who invited us to stop
with them ; he also asked for teachers to come to our
country and teach us all kinds of useful things, and
said how much obliged he was to those people who
always welcomed us. He spoke in Luganda, and the
Rev. E. Millar, as usual, interpreted. After this we
went to the Holy Communion in the church, and then
went home to fasten up our letters for Uganda, and
also to pack our things, because we were about to go
back into London, as our friend Mr. H. E. Millar was
packing up to go into the country, and his wife and
children also were going there to rest.



CHAPTER XII

The Natural History Museum Shopping Lunch with Sir Benjamin Stone
The House of Lords The Guildhall Visit to Mr. Burdett-Coutts*
stud farm Visit to Warlies Interview with Lord Rosebery Dinner
with the King's guard Changing guard at St. James's Palace Interview
with Sir Clement Hill

THE next morning, July 28th, we packed up our
things, and after breakfast got into our carriage to drive
back into London; our friend Mr. H. E. Millar and
his wife and children said good-bye to us, and bade
us farewell with true kindness that had no hypocrisy
in it, for they were all very sorry indeed to say
good-bye, both old and young, and the children had
got to know us very well and used to teach us their
language, and we taught them our Luganda ; and they
were just like our own relations, which they truly were
in heart. A great many people in their kindness never
arrive at this stage, as some despise those who look
different from themselves ; but these people and many
others we saw in other places were kind with true kind-
ness of heart.

When we got into London we first went to see my
surgical boot, and then went on with Dr. B. W. Walker,

173



\D10it to tbe IRatural 1btetor$ flfcuseum 173

the brother of Archdeacon Walker, to see a lady called
Mrs. Lamb, who was very kind to us and took us all
over her house, which was six stories high. We then
went to Dr. Walker's house, and found there Mr. E.
Millar and Archdeacon Walker's father, a very old
man, eighty-two years of age, but still very strong.

After lunch we went to see the house of the dead
animals, which is called the Natural History Museum ;
you have heard of the number of animals there
are in it, when I went there before alone with Dr.
B. W. Walker. I had told the Katikiro about it, and so
he was very pleased that we should go there together,
so that we could talk to one another about what we
saw. We saw a very great number of animals, and
birds, and fishes, and creeping things, and rocks and
trees, and types of various nations. They collect there
skulls of many races from all over the earth to show
the difference between the various races. We went
home with Archdeacon Walker's father by the railway
that goes under the ground, and we saw how active he
still was, since we got tired of walking about before he
did. When we reached the Westminster Palace Hotel
we had tea with Dr. B. W. Walker and his father, and
they then went home.

The next day, July 29th, we went to buy the things
which we wanted to take back to Uganda ; Dr.
B. W. Walker went with us, and helped us very
much in choosing the best things to buy, as our friend



i?4 Uoaitoa'6 1\atihiro in England

Mr. Millar had gone to the dentist. After lunch Mr.
Doggett came to see us ; his son had gone to Uganda
to catch wild animals, but he did not catch any
perhaps he found them too wild; I expect he will be
more successful another time.

After Mr. Doggett had gone we went out again with
Dr. Walker to buy the things we wanted, and later on in
the day our friend the Rev. E. C. Gordon came to visit us,
and slept in the hotel, and we talked a long time to him,
and helped him in his translation of a book of Uganda
folk-lore. We stayed up with him till very late, for he
knows our language very well indeed, and so we stayed
a long time talking to him.

The next day, July 3Oth, we went on buying our things
for Uganda ; there were four of us in all, Apolo Katikiro,
Revs. E. Millar and E. C. Gordon, and Ham Mukasa,
and we met Dr. Walker on the way, and went to a shop
where they sell tools, and bought a great many things
which we wanted.

After this we went to the " Houses of Parliament," which
is the house of the kingdom of England where all matters
are discussed that keep the country in order, the house
where the great council meets. We met there Sir Ben-
jamin Stone, of Birmingham, who had invited us to lunch,
and photographed us at the door of the Houses of Parlia-
ment which looks out on the River Thames, which is
quite close, only about twelve feet off ; he first photo-
graphed the Katikiro only, and then the Katikiro and



1bou0e0 of parliament 175

Ham Mukasa, and then all three of us. While we were at
lunch he said to us, "I want to take you all round
this place, and show you the chief house of our kingdom,
and the pictures of the great men of old and the ancient
kings who worked for this country." When we heard
this we were very glad indeed to think we were going


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Online LibraryHam MukasaUganda's Katikiro in England; being the official account of his visit to the coronation of His Majesty King Edward VII → online text (page 11 of 17)