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Ham Mukasa.

Uganda's Katikiro in England; being the official account of his visit to the coronation of His Majesty King Edward VII online

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me not to, and so I left off and we went on ; perhaps
there were as many as eighty looking at us. At last
we reached the place where the boys were : they had
put up an iron fence and inside had pitched their tents,



70 TIl0attoa'0 Isatifetro in England

and the people who had come to look at them had to
remain outside the fence. One of the officers came
and welcomed us and showed us the kitchen, and what
the tents were like. The boys had a very nice b
which played well. After we had seen these things
they took us to Mr. MacConnell, the head of the camp,
and we had tea with him. There were about two hundred
boys ; the names of their officers were J. R. MacConnell,
W. M. Alexander, and Mr. Parker, the Adjutant. After
tea the head of the camp said to me, "If you would say
a few words to us now we should be very pleased ; just
say what you like " ; and I thought it would be well to
do so and consented, and they blew the bugle, and some
of the boys came quickly and stood up in a line, and I
spoke thus :

" My friends, I am very pleased to come here and to
see what you are doing, but most of all I thank God for
uniting us with you in spirit ; though there is a difference
in our bodies, yet our hearts are one in the sight of God,
who made us one in His Son, and I therefore thank Him
for this. I want you to understand that had it not
been for this, people would never have come. to such a
distant country as ours, to tell the words of God; and
so we are very pleased to come amongst you, just
as if we had known you before, though this is only
our first visit. If, however, you were to tell one of the
heathen in our country that you would take him to
England, it would be the same to him as saying you



Gbe Hutbor'a Speecb to tbe Bo^s 71

wished to kill him ; and therefore, my friends, I thank
God for all that He has done for us, and may He in-
crease His peace in this land and in our land, that there
may be perfect peace. If God does this we shall all be
pleased, and shall be able to visit one another just as
we have now come over to visit you, both I and Apolo
Katikiro, whom you would call the Prime Minister ;
he is the greatest chief in our land and I am his secretary,
and came over with him to write down all we saw. Well,
may God be with you always."

After I had said this the head of the camp spoke in
the same way, because he was a true Christian. After
this he sent for a cab to take us back quickly, because
the people would have hindered us. He went with us
a little way, and then we went back to the hotel and
found Apolo had returned, and he told us how he had
had tea with Captain Hobart's mother, and I told him all
I had seen as I have described.

The next day we went to buy some of the things we
needed at the shop called " Army and Navy Stores,"
where there are a great many things, and whatever
any man may want can be found there. We bought
some note-books and writing-cases, and then went back
and had our hair cut.

At half -past one we went to see Sir H. H. Johnston,
and he welcomed us very warmly ; we found there his
wife and his younger brother, Captain and Mrs. Hobart,
and Lady Johnston's mother. After lunch Sir H. H.



7* Tllflanfra's 1\atihiro in



Johnston took us to see the glass room in which he did
his writing, in which wen- birds and other tilings, and
many things that had come from Uganda. He showed
us many kinds of animals he had got from other countries,
and pictures of the different tribes through whom In
passed, and made his phonograph sing for us ; it
a Kinyamwezi song thus : " Fundula malole B\
Wiswe," which means, " Take off the spt from

your eyes, O our master." The song is much longer
than this, as the Wanyamwezi are greater singers than
any of the peoples to the west of the lake. This phono-
graph made us laugh a great deal. Sir H. H. Johnston
also gave the Katikiro the book about our country
which he wrote when he came to bring " mairo " into
our land. 1 He wrote a great deal about Uganda,
but we have not yet fully understood all he wrote,
but have only seen the pictures. I have heard, how-
ever, that he said that all the Baganda were short, and
there were no tall men, but that the Katikiro is the
only tall man in Uganda. This is not so. Perhaps he
forgot ; I do not think he made this mistake on purpose,
because there are a great many tall men. All our an-
cestors were tall men, and at the present time there
are many tall men. He has written a great deal in this

1 Sir H. H. Johnston changed the whole system of land tenure in
Uganda, and arranged that each chief should have a certain number
of square miles as his freehold. A freehold plot of land is hence now
called in Uganda a "maim.' 1 Under the old system all the land was
held feudally from the King.




Photo by C. H'. Haltersley.

HIS HIGHNESS KABAKA DAUDI CHWA, KING OF UGANDA.

\To face p. 72.



Cbe "Zoo" 73

book about how the people speak in different parts
of the country, and has also printed some of the best
songs of the Basese, who paddle our canoes, and has
a picture of our King, Daudi Chwa, and pictures of some
of the chiefs.

After we had looked at this book he told us to come
with him and see the wild animals, and we went with
him and the others. We walked as far as the Zoo-
logical Gardens, and saw a great many kinds of animals
that we never see in our country. We first saw
wild horses and wild cattle, and lions, and tigers which
are the leopards of India and elephants, and hyenas,
and giraffes, and chimpanzees. I cannot tell you the
names of all the animals ; I can only tell you we saw sixty-
three different kinds or more, beasts and birds and snakes
and small creatures. It is difficult to find an animal
that is not there. After this the superintendent of the
gardens took us to his house to show it to us, and also
to show us a picture of his father, who was the first
superintendent ; he himself was a man sixty-five years
of age, and had taken the place of his father in looking
after the animals.

They gave us some biscuits to give to the elephant,
which took them out of our hands. We also threw pieces
of biscuit into its mouth, and it ate them. It was wonder-
fully tame and did what it was told, just like a man ;
they told it to stand on a stone, and it did so ; and to
put up its trunk, and it did so. We also played with



74 THoanfra'e fcatifciro in England

the chimpanzee ; its keeper was nursing it like a baby,
and he told it to shake hands, and it shook hands like
a man. We also saw wonderful snakes ; two boas from
India were as large as the middle of a crocodile, and each
eats a goat every day. I also saw a turtle as large as a
pig, and a giraffe that was much taller than an elephant ;
perhaps it was as much as 20 or 22 ft. high, and it
was still young. We saw also a pelican thirty-eight
years old, and another thirty-four years of age.

A great many people come in to see these animals,
perhaps as many as a hundred thousand every day ;
I do not quite know, as one meets numbers of men,
women, and children wherever one goes. Do not think
they can just walk in not so at all ; they first have
to pay something, and they can then go in and see the
animals. There are always people coming to see them ;
every day different people come.

After this we came away with Sir H. H. Johnston
and his younger brother, who knows a little Swahili.
Sir H. H. Johnston himself knows it very well, and
speaks it much better than many people. We next
went to a place where they sell tea, and there Sir H. H.
Johnston and his brother said good-bye to us and left
us, as did also the superintendent.

After tea we went home, and after our arrival Captain
Hobart came to say he had an invitation for the Kati-
kiro to go to the New Zealand dinner, and the Katikiro
accepted it.



letter from Hpolo IRatifciro 75




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76 THiianfca'0 *atilttro in



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translation of letter 77



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Translation of Letter from Apolo Katikiro to Rev. E. Millar.

MENGO, UGANDA, June 2^th, 1904.

To MR. MILLAR.
MY DEAR FRIEND,

Many thanks for your two letters about the death of
Sir Henry Stanley. Many thanks for attending his funeral,
and for telling me how honourable a burial he was given.

I had your letter copied on my typewriter and sent it to all
the chiefs, that they might read it and hear all about the
funeral.



78 Taoanfca'e Itatilwo in



Things here are going on well. There were about ten
t h< msand people present at the dedication of the cathedral ; we
were a very large numl>

When our friend Mr. (T. F. Victor) Buxton reached Uganda
we welcomed him warmly, and I had tea ready for him on
the way up from Munyonyo. I also gave a banquet to him
and to our bishop there were thirty-seven Europeans and
nine Baganda present, and we enjoyed ourselves very much.

I send you the numbers of births and deaths. On the Sese
Islands Muwambi (chief of Rome Island) is dead, and seven
other chiefs have died, and a very large number of people are
ill, and those who are still alive wish to leave the islands
altogether.

We told the Commissioner that the Sese Islanders wished
to run away from their islands, and asked his advice ; and he
told us that he would consider the matter and let us have
his answer.

Well, good-bye ; may God protect you.

I am,

(Signed) APOLO KATIKIRO.

The following is a list of those who died in the month
ending May 3ist, 1904 :

Tever ........ 85

Sleeping sickness ..... 862

Plague ........ 37

Small pox ....... 157

Pneumonia ....... 50

Internal disorders ..... 89

Dysentery ....... 7

Infantile diseases ..... 232

Specific diseases ...... 25

.Other illnesses ...... 356



Written
by the

Katikiro's
clerk.



Children born

This only is j" Well, good-bye,
the Katikiro's J I am,

own writing. [ (Signed) APOLO KATIKIRO.



CHAPTER VI

Interview with the Church Missionary Society The Bible House The
Bishop of London's garden party Dinner with Mr. Herbert Samuel,
M.P. A Board School "Ben Hur" The Hippodrome Lunch with
Sir T. Fowell Buxton, G.C.M.G. The London Hospital Visit to
Hampstead The Crystal Palace

THE next day, June I7th, we went to see the rulers of
the Church Missionary Society ; the Katikiro and the
Rev. G. K. Baskerville went in one carriage, and I and
Mr. Millar in another, and we reached the Church Mis-
sionary House, where we were greeted by Prebendary
Fox, the chief secretary, and our bishop, Bishop A. R.
Tucker, who had come to the door to meet us. They
escorted us in, and we found a great many ladies and
gentlemen, about one hundred and fifty, who all stood
up as we entered, in order to give us honour and welcome
us warmly. All the Uganda people sat together, Bishop
Tucker, the Revs. G. K. Baskerville and E. Millar,
Dr. A. R. Cook, and ourselves, their Uganda pupils.

After we had sat down we prayed to God, and the
President, Sir John H. Kennaway, said a few words,
and then asked the Katikiro to make a speech, and he
and Mr. Millar (as interpreter) stood up. He spoke for
a long time, and said how he had at first come to learn

79



1H0aiftA'9 1<atifmo in

to read because Mr. Mackay and Mr. O'Flaherty gave
him food ; but aftmvurds he went on learning because
he saw that Christianity was a good thing, and so he no
longer thought of the food. He said a great deal, and
after he had finished Bishop Tucker, our bishop, spoke
for some time, and told how the Katikiro had helped
the Uganda Church ; he also spoke of my having written
a commentary on St. Matthew's Gospel. After this
Sir T. Powell Buxton said a little, and then the bishop
prayed, and all was over.

We then shook hands with many who were there,
both men and women, and went to have some tea.
After this they showed us the store from which books
in all languages go out. We saw the room in which
Namukade and Kataluba (the envoys sent over by
Mutesa in 1878) had lived, and also saw the man who
had looked after them. This room is now a store for
Luganda books.

(They then went to the Bible House, and saw the
secretaries of the British and Foreign Bible Society.)

They told us that every day eight thousand books
are sent out, and go to all parts of the world ; and we
saw old Greek books on parchment, from which they
get the books we read now. We also saw Hebrew books
made of skins. All these old books they put in glass
boxes, so that people should not handle them ; but they
can be seen quite well through the glass. We saw also a
press for printing books for the blind, who cannot see



Bisbop of

at all ; and we all worked it to see how it printed, and
the impressions which we ourselves took were given to
us to take back to Uganda to show to our friends. We
also saw the portraits of men long dead, who had done
good work, and who are thus commemorated. After this
we went home, Bishop Tucker and his wife escorting
us as far as the door.

After a short rest we went to see the Bishop of London,
and there found a great many people, perhaps three or
four thousand ; there were a great many carriages
belonging to the visitors whom he had invited. We went
through on to the lawn with the other visitors ; we two
and an Indian were the only black people there. The
Bishop of London is a very cheerful and kind man, and
greeted us very warmly. We went all round his garden,
and saw beds of flowers and of different kinds of vege-
tables. After we had walked round and seen everything,
we said good-bye and came home ; and after a short
rest the Katikiro went with Captain Hobart to the
New Zealand dinner, and Mr. Millar and I went to see
a wonderful conjurer, who did some very clever tricks
which quite puzzled me.

He produced a boy out of a cloth, and a bear out
of a piece of paper ; he got fire out of a cloth, and
caught little fish in the air ; he also produced a large
water-pot full of water out of the cloth, and lifted a man
up without holding him, so that he remained lying down
in space with nothing above or below him ; he shot at

6



82 TIlanfca'0 l<atlluro in



a lamp on one table and it appeared on another, and
did also a great many other things. When we got home
we told the K.itikiro what we had seen, and he told us
about the New Zealand dinner.

The next morning Captain Hobart took the Katikiro
to Ascot, the place where the horses race, and Mr. Millar
and I went to a great many shops. I saw a wonderful
house where people store their money (National Safe
Deposit Company), which has been very cleverly built
of extremely hard steel ; it is built with two circular
walls which are extremely strong, one of stone, the
other of burnt brick. The doors are very strong, and
as thick as a hand's breadth, and close by themselves,
and no man is able to open them, or to cut through the
circular wall of stone or of burnt bricks, which are very
hard. Policemen walk about all the time round the
walls ; there is water above and below to protect the
place from fire, and this water is like a lake in volume,
and is all round the building. Inside there are many
holes, in each of which is a box, where every man who
wishes to do so can keep his money, and every one who
keeps his money in this house has many private signs
given him, so that no one else may take his place, and by
his cleverness steal his money.

After this we returned home, and after a rest we went
to see Mr. Herbert Samuel, who spent a short time in
Uganda, and gave the King a toy steamer, that went
on the water just like a real steamer. He also took



IDteit to flDr. Iberbert Samuel, flXp. 83

many photographs of our country, and of different kinds
of people, peasants and chiefs, and of the King and of
the old kind of houses which are being done away with
at the present time, and of our different styles of clothing ;
all these things Mr. Herbert Samuel did when he was in
our country. When we reached his house we found
he had asked a great many people to meet us ; in all
there were twelve of us. The Uganda party consisted
of the Katikiro, the Revs. E. C. Gordon and E. Millar,
and I, Ham Mukasa. After dinner he showed us a great
many photographs from Uganda and the neighbouring
countries.

The next morning, June igth, they took the Katikiro
(on Lord Onslow's motor-car) to see the statue of King
Albert and of those who were great men in his time
(Albert Memorial) ; this is not the Albert who is king at
present, but one of a long time ago. The Katikiro told
me this when he got back, and I wrote it down.

After this we went to have lunch with Dr. B. W.
Walker, the brother of Archdeacon Walker the friend
of Ham Mukasa, and he cooked a fine luncheon to
welcome us, and took us all over his house to show us
what it was like : we noticed that the kitchen was on
the lowest floor. We sat down ten to lunch, Dr. B .W.
Walker, the Revs. E. C. Gordon and E. Millar, Apolo
Katikiro, two other men and three ladies, and Ham
Mukasa.

Later on we went to see over a children's school, and



84 Ifloanfra's icatihiro in



\vhrn we arrived they took us all over it, and showed
us how they were taught many different kinds of wisdom.
They are first taught to read and to do arithmetic, to do
carpenters' work and to swim, to jump and to run, and
to cook like ladies and married people, to keep the house
in order, to wash clothes, to make the beds properly,
and to wash up everything that requires washing when
it is dirty ; to sweep out the house, and to do every
kind of work that people must learn to do for th< m-
selves. Every kind of work necessary for men and
women is taught there, so that when they grow up
they know all about it, and can choose whatever
occupation they wish, and the work which one leaves
another can do, as he knows about every kind of work.
They teach them from three or four years old for
seven years ; others are taught till they are fifteen ; the
children of rich parents are taught everything. We went
there at twelve (2 p.m. really), and came away at a quarter
to six, and they gave us samples of the carpenters' work
that they do, and we took them home with us. There
were a great many children in that school ; we saw from
three to four hundred. When they saw that we were
going away a great many of the little ones came to see
us off, and wanted very much to have a good look at us.
I wished to speak to them, as about eighty of them were
following behind, and rolled up my coat-sleeve to show
them what my arm was like, because many of them
wanted to see it, and they came closer and each child



"Ben "four" 85

wanted to shake hands with me, because they were so
pleased. Some were at first afraid, but when they saw
their companions talking English to me they too came
close up, and I played with them and picked them up
with one hand, and so on. When they saw we were going
they all came to say good-bye, but Mr. Millar said,
" Leave them alone, there are too many of them," and
so we got into our carriages and went home, wondering
as we went at the houses and carriages like locusts in
number.

After dinner we went to see a game (" Ben Hur ") in a
place called Drevy Len Banker (Drury Lane Theatre), and
we saw how they dressed up in a great many different
ways. They first dressed themselves up like the wise
men from the East, following the star to seek for our
Lord ; after this they brought on the city of Jerusalem,
and the priests dressed in their proper costumes ; after
this they imitated the way the Romans used to row their
boats when they ruled the world and attacked the city
of Jerusalem, and crossed the sea to get there and fight
against it. After this they imitated Judah the Jew
and the men who rebelled with him. After this they
brought on the spirit the Romans worshipped, Apollo
by name, and their marriage customs, and the way they
went to their weddings ; and they brought on a wicked
woman, who enticed away the man she had set her
heart on, and took him off in a boat to her place. They
next brought on horses that race4 in chariots, and



86 1fl(jairta'0 fcattfUro in

they showed the healing of some lepers by our



Lord.

The people who were there were perhaps as many
as six hundred ; it was a very large house, and they h.id
put in it shelves for all the sight-seers to sit on, and
these were from the bottom to the top of the house,
and there was a great space left for the people to
play in.

They made the place like the ancient Romans used
to make their amphitheatres, in which they saw
beasts fight with prisoners, and this is the way tin A-
make all their places of amusement ; they sang also the
songs of Apollo, the god of the Romans, just as they
used to sing them when they were still heathen ; they
collected a great many children and women and men,
and these sang as the people used to sing.

The next day, June 2oth, at half-past nine in the
morning, the Rev. J. Roscoe and Mr. Millar's sister
came to see us. Mr. Millar's sister came with her little
girl, who very quickly drew us a pencil-sketch of a horse,
and we were pleased to see the way the English teach
their little children. We also went with the Rev. E. C.
Gordon to Dr. Oppenshaw to look for a boot for my
bad leg, and we met Dr. Walker there, and they told
me to speak into a thing called in English a telephone,
and I spoke to another man four and a half miles away.
Then Dr. Walker left us, and we went with Mr. Gordon
to the manufacturer of (surgical) boots to see if he



Ifoippofcrome 87

could find a boot for my bad leg, but he could not find
one of the kind I required in his stock, and promised
to give me an iron thing that would make my legs of
equal length, and then to make a boot for me.

After lunch we went to see a most marvellous per-
formance in a place called " The London Hippodrome,"
but it is difficult to tell you about the things we saw
there, because if you tell a clever man about these things,
in his stupidity he thinks you are not speaking the
truth at all ; however, I will try to tell you, as well as
I can, what we saw. First, there was a woman in a
carriage drawn by a horse all spotted like a leopard,
which was called in their language Leopard Horse (Leo-
pard was the name of the horse). This horse marched
along with its carriage just like soldiers march to a band,
and the band played and the bugles blew and the flutes
played a tune for it to march to. Then there was a dog
that walked round between the horse's legs, as it was
walking, and neither of them made a mistake as it passed
in and out just like a man who had sense, and we were
very surprised at the way they had been taught.

After this came a man who played at catching bullets
nearly as large as a football, a wonderful man ; he also
picked up a man and put him on his hand, and the other
man stiffened himself and he lifted him right up with
only one hand. After this came a man who played
with his feet with very large barrels, lying on his
back on a couch ; after this he brought three things



'0 itatihiro in

as large as drums and put tin in cue on the top of the
other, although they were not flat, and kept them together
by his skill, and played with them with his feet, and
they did not fall, although they were round. After this
he lifted up seven dogs on a piece of wood that was like
a stick with seven branches, and had a dog sitting on
each branch ; he lifted these up on his head and they
did not fall.

After this they brought on some boys and girls, each
on a single bicycle wheel, without anything to hold on
to in front, like other bicycles. One of them picked
up a boy of about twelve years of age and held him up
with one hand as he was riding, and we were amazed
at his skill ; and then the boy put one hand on the
other's head and pointed his feet to the roof, while the
other rode the bicycle round. After this the rider took
his bicycle to pieces as he rode it, and remained
with one wheel only, as when he first came on ;
in the same way he put it together again as he was
going. After this they brought on an elephant and
gave it a big drum, and it played it just like a man ; and
they gave it a gun and gave the words of command, and
it drilled just like a man, and put its gun wherever it
was told to ; and they ordered it to fire, and it fired
just like a man.

Some elephants also put a man on a couch just as if
he were ill, and carried him where they were told ; one
of them was told to fetch the medicine off the table,



a Clever JElepbant 8 9

and it did so, and gave it him to drink ; and the sick man
told it to bring a candle, and it did so ; and he told


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Online LibraryHam MukasaUganda's Katikiro in England; being the official account of his visit to the coronation of His Majesty King Edward VII → online text (page 6 of 17)