Harry T. (Harry Taylor) Gause.

Detailed description of scenes and incidents connected with a trip through the mountains and parks of Colorado, as accomplished by H.B.B. Stapler and Harry T. Gause, July 21-August 20, 1971 online

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Online LibraryHarry T. (Harry Taylor) GauseDetailed description of scenes and incidents connected with a trip through the mountains and parks of Colorado, as accomplished by H.B.B. Stapler and Harry T. Gause, July 21-August 20, 1971 → online text (page 1 of 14)
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Rocky Mountains


University of California Berkeley





A Trip through the Mountains
and Parks of





July 21 August 20,



tea fo
















The Start. The Pennsylvania Central. The Prairies. The
Garden City. The Boulevards. A Mob Fight. North-
Shore Drive. The Wafer Works. Enterprise of Chicago.
- The Ride through Illinois. The Missouri River.
Council Bluffs and Omaha. 1 3


Chickasaw Indians. Line of Cultivation. A Storm on the
Plains. Effects of the Wind. Pawnee Indians. The it-
Costume. An Instance of Stoicism. Platte Valley Bottom.
A Western "Happy Family'' Cheyenne. Denver.
The First View of the Mountains. Farming in Colorado.
Entering the Mountains. Passing the Range. 31


Idaho. Its Springs. The Georgetown Valley. Georgetown
Character of its Inhabitants. The A scent of Greys Peak.
The View from the Summit. A Storm among the Moun-
tains. The Descent. 5 x



The Burleigh Tunnel. Machine Drilling. The Composition of
the Silver Ore. The Reduction Process. Our Mountain
Party. Scenery along the New Trail. Crossing the Range.
The First Mountain Rabbit. Lost among the Rocky
Mountains. A Comic Scene The Head of the Platte.
Another Funny Adventure. The Ride to Hepborris
Ranch. 65


The Frontierman s Home. Once more in the Saddle. Enter-
ing So2tth Park. The Hill of the Espanola. Fair Play.
The " Comfortable" Room. Our Mountain Outfit. The
Ride to Horse Shot Gulch. First indications of Master
"Bruin" The First Buck. A novel Bear Trap. The
Forest on Fire. A cold Morning Hunt. Up the Valley
again. The Camp. 81


Stalking Antelope. Dinner on the "Divide." The Horse Shoe
Basin. Sunset from the Divide. Atmospheric Tempera-
ture on the Mountains. The Ascent of "Silver Heels"
View from the Summit. Mountain. Quail Shooting. -
Master Bruin at Camp. Farewell to Camp Life. 99


In Fair Play Again. Three of Colorado's Great Men. The
Baker s Ranche Imposition. A Characteristic Speech.


Miss Elegance. The View from the Summit of the Ran & .
One Link in the Chain of Western Life. The Ride down
Turkey Creek Canon. Denver once more. \ \ 5


The Real Plains of the West. The First Buffaloes. The
Plains on Fire. A Buffalo on the Track. Kansas City.
The Ride from Cave City to Mammoth Cave. Mammoth
Cave and its Surroundings. Temperature of its Atmos-
phere. 127


White s Cave. Contrast of experience within and without.
Entering the Mammoth Cave. The Wonders within. 140


The Giant's Coffin. The wooden Bowl Cave. The Side Sad-
dle Pit and Minerva s Dome. The Bridge of Sighs. The
Bottomless Pit. The Fat Man's Misery. The River Styx.
Music on Echo River. The Eyeless Fish. 151


A Subterranean Concert Room. The Highest Dome in tin-
Cave. The Fly Chamber. Marthas Vineyard. A Ro-
mantic Meal. The Last Rose of Summer, (before last.)
Diamond Grotto. An Underground Mountain. The End
of the Cave and the Maelstrom. Music on Echo River.
Once More Above Ground. 169



The Short or Extra Route. The Giant Group. The Star
Chamber. The Greatest Natural Tunnel in the World.
Chief City. The Labyrinth and Goriris Dome. Entering
Pensacola Avenue. The Great Crossing. The Trip to
Mammoth Dome. Corinthian Columns. Roaring River.
The New Discovery. The Gothic Arcade. 181


A Curious Mummy. The First Echo. Register Room,
" Where there s a Will, there s a Way." A Love Story
founded on Fact. Vulcan s Smithy and Napoleon's Breast-
works. The Lover s Leap. Lake Purity. Adieu to the
Mammoth Cave. Once More in Louisville. The Queen City
of the West. A Cincinnati Park. An Odd Tight Rope
Performance. The Ride over the Baltimore and Ohio.
A lone. The Last A dventurc. Home at Last. 1 93


In publishing this Journal, I have acted from two
motives, namely ; to accommodate the many friends who
have kindly expressed a desire to peruse it, and to pre-
serve, for future retrospection, my impressions of the
sights and scenes connected with our trip, that merits to be
recorded in even a more elaborate and detailed manner.

It is not the result I had wished to produce; there
may be much wanting both in description and narration,
but I trust, for any appreciation of which it may be
worthy, in a measure to personal interest, for only those
who are our friends will care to know what concerns us.

From many reasons this little work has been rather
hastily compiled, which may account for an occasional
over-sight which otherwise might have been corrected.

I have dwelt at length upon the description of Mam-
moth Cave, because, to any of those who may read these
pages, and who may now contemplate, or in future ac-
complish the trip through it, it may prove of service in


showing them just what to expect, and so enable them to
lay their plans, for sight-seeing, to better advantage.

One other point before I close.

I have spoken, perhaps, in too severe a manner of
the farming advantages of Colorado, but have done so
in the hope of disabusing any honest minds of the er-
roneous impressions of this country to be derived from
most of the extravagant colorings of travelers, who have
written books to sell or to please. But I am in doubt
whether to express the opinion that more good might be
done by underrating a country, so that an agreeable
surprise awaits those who visit it, or by overrating it
and disappointing and vexing all tourists. But as I
hesitate, the bell taps, the curtain rises, and the play


Of a Summer Trip to Colorado and the
Rocky Mountains.


The Start. The Pennsylvania Central. The Prairies. 77ic
Garden City. The Boulevards. A Mob Fight. North-
Shore Drive. The Water Works. Enterprise of Chicago.
The Ride througJi Illinois. The Missouri River.
Council Bluffs and Omaha.

Bright and early, on the morning of the twenty-first of
July, 1871, we were called, to prepare for our start which was
to take place at ten minutes past eight o'clock. At the depot
we met several of our friends who had kindly come down to
see us off. We had enjoyed but a few moments pleasant con-
versation, when the bell sounded and we stepped on board
the train. The last we saw of them, was a number of hand-
kerchiefs and hats waving in the air. We reached Philadel-
phia at 9:30 A. M., so that we had ample time, and, in fact,
more than was sufficient to accomplish several errands in
the city. This duty over, we met, according to agreement ,
at the West Philadelphia ddpot, and, after a hearty dinner.
embarked for the West, full of bright anticipations for the
future and our trip.


We both having traversed this section of country many
times previous, found no special pleasure in gazing through
the car window, so entertained ourselves in a much more
agreeable manner by discussing our plans and arranging many
little points connected with our trip. As we proceeded,
conversation flagged and we betook ourselves to books and
papers to beguile the time. When we wearied of reading,
we slept ; when tired of sleeping, read again. In this manner
all of Friday afternoon was passed. In the evening at about
9 : 5?' we reached Altoona and had a good, substantial supper,
after which, as the cars rattled away again, we composed
ourselves for the night, as we were already a little fatigued
by the monotony of the ride. During the night, unfortunately,
we passed through the most beautiful portion of the country,
crossing the Alleghanies a little west of Altoona.

In the morning we were awakened by the bustle and con-
fusion about us, for the train had just stopped at a station,
ninety miles beyond Pittsburg. After enjoying a second nap,
we rose, washed and arranged our toilet, then sauntered about
listlessly, sometimes standing in the vestibule of the Pullman
car, and at others, seating ourselves upon the railed-in plat-
forms to observe the points of interest which we passed.

At nine o'clock we reached Crestline where we break-
fasted ; then returned to the car and read, slept and talked
for the remainder of the morning.

At three o'clock we dined at Ft. Wayne and passed the
afternoon in precisely the same manner as we had done the
fore part of the day. Soon after dinner we began to traverse
the prairies which surround Chicago for many miles in cir-
cumference. This was a new experience to us and we enjoyed
it with a zest. Almost as far as the eye could reach was
nothing but a broad, flat expanse of waving grass, upon


which, we noticed, here and there, herds of cattle quietly

At six o'clock P. M., we approached the Garden City,
which, at first sight, was only visible by a long, low line of
black smoke hanging just above the horizon. Soon, objects
became more distinct, and before we had ridden another half-
hour, we could easily discern the spires and smoke-stacks of
the city. We arrived at the depot at 6:42 and took a bus up
to the Sherman House. Having obtained good rooms, we re-
paired thither and indulged in sundry ablutionary processes,
which very materially contributed to the respectability of our
appearance. Having discussed a well-timed supper we ad-
journed to the reading room in order to peruse the various
periodicals and newspapers. I sat down to write some letters,
but had just begun, when my friend Stapler came and dragged
me off for a moonlight walk. We strolled down to the shore
of the lake and seating ourselves upon some piles of lumber that
strewed the wharf, enjoyed the beautiful surroundings. On
one side we looked out upon that broad and apparently limit-
less expanse of waters, reflecting from a thousand wave-tops
the flood of soft moonlight that poured down upon it, only
dispersing the darkness sufficiently to cast a wierd indistinct-
ness upon the surrounding objects. In this mysterious light,
a train of cars became a long, dense line of soldiers marching
with wonderful order ; a lamp-post became a tall man with a
large head, and the vast city lying before us seemed like sonic
huge, breathing creature with a hundred thousand eyes. We
lingered long to enjoy these sights which were so new to us.
but at length, feeling somewhat chilled by the cool brcc/c
from the lake, we retraced our steps to the hotel, where in
a very short time we were dreaming a continuation of tlu
evening's walk.


We arose on Sunday morning rather late, as might have
been expected, but not too much so to attend divine ser-
vice held in the large Methodist Church in Chicago. It is
a beautiful building, constructed upon the Gothic style of
architecture, with two spires, which are finished a la Cath-
edral de Milan. The material used in this building, in common
with most of the other public edifices in the city, deserves a
word of explanation. It consists of a soft, light colored stone
which is brought from the North, somewhere, I believe, near
the shores of Lake Michigan at its upper extremity. It is al-
most cream colored, but gradually wears darker with age and
exposure. As no considerable amount of stone can be pro-
cured directly about the city, the surrounding section of
country being nothing more than a flat prairie, all the build-
ing stone is transported from a distance to meet the ever
increasing demand. After church, as we were returning to
the hotel, who should we meet bnt Grover, of Yale, in Stap-
ler's class, and a mighty good fellow. He, of course, was both
surprised and pleased to see us and said he would call around
after dinner and show us the city. According to agreement
he was on hand promptly at the hour appointed, and after
spending an hour in pleasant conversation, a walk was pro-
posed and readily assented to. He escorted us through the
principal streets immediately adjoining the hotel, pointing
out the various public buildings and other objects of interest,
until at last we found ourselves out on Michigan Avenue,
which runs directly along the lake-shore, occupying, conse-
quently, a most beautiful site. Between it and the water,
there is stretching along for some distance, a series of lawns
where a great number of people usually congregate to enjoy
a quiet Sunday afternoon ; but unfortunately, being mostly of
the laboring classes, they do not enhance the pleasure of the
surroundings. Here we saw quite a crowd assembled and ap-


patently engrossed in some excitement. Presently we saw
everybody running toward the spot, so we followed suite and
after climbing up on the backs of some benches, from which
high station we could command a good view over the heads
of the crowd, we ascertained that there was a mob-fight in
full blast, sustained on one side principally by a big Dutchman
in his shirt sleeves. He was a powerful man and seemed fully
competent to withstand the combined attacks of his many
assailants ; but at last numbers conquered and he was obliged
to run. As you may well imagine there was a general
stampede. We joined the hurrying crowds, for it was right in
the direction in which we would have gone, even had we been
alone. He ran up Michigan Avenue, along fourteenth street
to Wabash Avenue, and turned down ; but having eluded his
pursuers for sometime, they overtook and arrested him some-
where in eighteenth street.

As Grover had invited us to take tea with him, we took a
bus and after riding for some distance toward the southside,
we alighted before a large sand-stone front building with a
flight of wide stone steps leading up to the front piazza.
There was a beautiful lawn extending from the house to
the avenue and covered with large trees, in all, making a
very aristocratic looking establishment. We sat upon the
stoop for sometime, chatting pleasantly, when Mr. Grover
came down and joined us. He is a very handsome man,
gentlemanly, with refined manners and courtly address.
He is the principal of a young ladies' boarding school in
Chicago. Presently we adjourned to the supper-room where
we met our friend Grover's maiden aunt, who proved to be a
very cultivated and entertaining lady. After tea we spent an
hour very pleasantly in the parlor.

After having passed a most agreeable evening or portion
of an evening with them, Grover proposed taking us over to


the North side to hear the minister at St. James' Episcopal
Church. Right here let me explain this term "North Side".
Chicago is divided into four grand divisions, viz ; the " Center,"
South Side, West Side and North Side, meaning those parts
of the city enclosed, or bounded by the different branches of
the Chicago River.

Upon leaving Mr Grover's residence, we rode in a bus
as far as the river where we alighted and were compelled
to wait some time for the closing of the draw-bridge that
spanned the stream. St. James' Church is situated but a
short distance from the water, so we accomplished the remain-
er of the crossing on foot. We enjoyed the service exceed-
ingly, for not only did we hear a good sermon but most exqui-
site singing. This choir is one of the best in the city.

After service we stepped over to see that thoroughly
German institution called the "Turne Halle" or in English
Turner's Hall. We entered the imposing looking building
by a broad staircase, purchased our tickets and passed into
the audience chamber of the Hall. Strains of magnificent
music by a full orchestra, greeted us as we were ushered.
On the stage, sat the musicians arranged as in the Theo.
Thomas Concert. In their execution they are said to rival
the former troupe, and we certainly concur in this opinion
after hearing their performance that evening. Seated at
the small tables that covered the floor of the house, were
the Germans, with their wives, daughters and innumerable
children, all drinking beer. It was no uncommon sight to
see a baby who could not yet stand alone, sipping beer
from a glass, held to its little lips by its mother. These
children drink before they talk. It would not express the
idea to say that the room was full. It was literally packed !
One could scarcely crowd through the aisles between the


rows of tables. Even upon the side of the stage it was a
difficult matter to obtain seats. We enjoyed this grand
musical treat, the programme of which I carried away with
me as a " memorabil," until ten o'clock, when there was
a general scattering. The Germans never keep such en-
tertainments open to a late hour for they are very temper-
ate in everything but beer. I have no recollection of having
ever seen a more orderly and less noisy assemblage of people
any where. They seemed to be perfectly happy to sit and
sip beer and listen to good music. This appeared to be their
idea of earthly bliss. After the performers left the stage,
we walked back to the hotel where we bade our kind friend
good night.

On the following morning after making some arrange-
ments previous to, and concerning, our departure, and visiting
the ticket office of the Chicago and North-Western Rail
Road, we ordered a carriage and drove down to Grover's,
where, according to our engagement, he was awaiting us.
We first rode along Michigan Avenue to obtain a good
view of the lake ; then through Calumet Avenue to the
tomb of Stephen A. Douglass, which is situated upon the
summit of a little knoll that commands an uninterrupted view
of the lake, as well as the country for miles around the city.
We unanimously declared that it occupied the most beau-
tiful site for a grave of any that we had ever seen. A
magnificent monument is in course of erection, which, at
present, is only half finished. A few rods from the grave
there stands a large hotel that is named in honor of this illus-
trious statesman and politician.

Returning to the carriage we drove out the Boulevards
which is a splendidly constructed, and wide street that ex-
tends around the entire city, joining the different, distinct di\ i-


sions. It is laid with Nicholson's pavement throughout its
whole length, and presents a very gay appearance when rilled
with the beautiful summer equipages of pleasure seekers.
Most of the way this avenue was lined on either side by elegant
residences, which contributed to make it one of the handsomest
drives in the West. As it is over ten miles long, it occupied
more than an hour to accomplish the entire distance. We re-
turned by South Park Avenue and turning into Wabash
Avenue arrived at the hotel, in good trim for the excellent
western dinner that awaited us.

It was not until five o'clock that we adjourned to our
rooms, though not to remain long, for Grover, who had order-
ed a carriage, made us accept of its use ; so we entered and
drove off on our way over to the West Side. We stopped
for a particular friend, a young lawyer named Bartow, who
had graduated at Yale in the class of '69. He proved to be a
very witty, jolly little fellow, and kept us in a constant laugh
by his unexpected remarks and sly jokes. He was the life of'
the party. We rode out through the LaSalle street tun-
nel, under the river and then into the West Side Park.
This is the smallest, cutest and most artistically arranged
park I ever saw. Rustic bridges and summer houses on all
sides ; little lakes and winding rivulets, sloping lawns and
flower-covered arbors greeted the eye, no matter in which di-
rection we looked. Here and there a fountain cast up a tiny
column of water, under which white swans disported them-
selves, shaking the glittering spray from their snowy plumage.
Large trees towered over this scene of loveliness, casting a
pleasant shade over all.

We stopped the horses by the side of a clear sheet of
water, and watched the children as they rowed upon its
smooth surface, splashing with the miniature oars in their


childish delight. From this charming spot we recrossed the
river to the center, and following one of the principal business
streets, entered the North Side by means, of another tunnel.

In passing through this portion of the city, we of course
saw many beautiful buildings, and handsome churches, but it
would be both unnecessary and tiresome to enter into a de-
tailed description of them all, so I will pass them by, with
the single remark that they are a credit to a city no older
than Chicago, and indeed would prove an ornament to any
Eastern city. Winding through the cool, inviting avenues of
the North Side Park, we thought, after all, we preferred the
sights that here met our eyes, to those that we had seen in
other parts of the city, not excepting the West Side Park.

Our most sanguine expectations were more than realized
when we drove out upon the North Shore Drive, as it is called ;
for beside the grand view of the lake upon one side, we ob-
tained on the other, an excellent sight of the Park, even to
where it joins the prairies beyond.

The surroundings gave us an idea of what would be the
effect of the combination of the ocean with Central Park.
The drive is an asphaltum-paved avenue, extending for almost
two miles along the edge of the beach, and terminating at its
upper extremity in a gradual curve, which sweeps from the
water around a narrow neck of timber jutting out from the
park, and joins itself in the Main Drive, within a hundred yards
of its point of starting. This lake avenue is the pride of Chi-
cago, and there is here to be seen, on any fine afternoon, the
style and fashion of the great city, attired in gala-dress for
this impromptu tournament.

As we rode along, occasionally "speeding" our well-
matched pair with those of a rival for the turf, we noticed
many beautiful ladies, and noble looking men. All seemed


in the best humor possible, and everything about us spoke in
language plainer than words, of happiness and contentment.
The birds sang merrily, and the waves plashed noisily as they
broke upon the pebbled beach.

Every now and then, turning at sound of pattering hoofs
from behind, we would catch the ringing tones of a woman's
laugh, and see a beautiful face, flushed with the excitement of
holding the fiery steeds, already heated by the race. Who
will say it was not fun to enter the lists with such a charming
rival ? Who could lag behind when such a fair sprite, looking
back over her shoulder with a merry twinkle in her eye, shakes
her little head in mock defiance, inviting you to join her in a
race ? In this manner we spent two short hours, when it be-
gan to grow dark, and we recollected that we had not yet ac-
complished all our round of sight-seeing ; so we drove at once
to the water-works of Chicago, which are a wonder in them-
selves. We saw three immense engines which are kept work-
ing unceasingly to supply the city with water, pumped out of
the lake. These engines are situated in a large building, con-
structed expressly for their accommodation. There is a two-
mile tunnel running out under the lake, and through which
come the water-pipes. At the outer end there is an enormous
"crib," which is, in reality, nothing more than a huge funnel,
extending from the surface down into the tunnel, and, being
provided with a sort of wire sieve or screen, it lets, in the fresh,
clean water, but excludes the fish and other impurities.
These engines give to the water a sufficient impetus to cause
it to flow with a pretty strong stream in the third and even
fourth story of every house in the city.

Leaving the Water-Works, we took another airing on
Wabash Avenue, after which we repaired to the hotel, where,
after some pleasant conversation, we bade our friends fare-


well and turned our thoughts toward leaving, which we did at
quarter of ten o'clock that evening.

We had purchased our berth tickets at the office, so that
we had nothing to do but get into the cars and go to sleep.

Before relating the incidents of Tuesday, I will jot down
my impressions of Chicago. The very first thing we heard
on Sunday morning, was a brass band in full blast, marching
down the street at the head of a procession of Dutchmen.

1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Online LibraryHarry T. (Harry Taylor) GauseDetailed description of scenes and incidents connected with a trip through the mountains and parks of Colorado, as accomplished by H.B.B. Stapler and Harry T. Gause, July 21-August 20, 1971 → online text (page 1 of 14)