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How I Found Livingstone; travels, adventures, and discoveres in Central Africa, including an account of four months' residence with Dr. Livingstone, by Henry M. Stanley online

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would be able to decide then whether he was quite trustworthy.

The next day I collected the men of the new Livingstone Expedition
together, and as it was dangerous to allow them to wander about the
city, I locked them up in a courtyard, and fed them there, until every
soul, fifty seven in number, answered to their names.

In the meantime, through the American Consul's assistance, I obtained
the services of Johari, the chief dragoman of the American Consulate,
who was charged with the conduct of the party across the inundated plain
of the Kingani, and who was enjoined on no account to return until the
Expedition had started on its march from the western bank of the Kingani
River. Mr. Oswell Livingstone generously paid him a douceur for the
promise of doing his work thoroughly.

A dhow having been brought to anchor before the American Consulate, I
then addressed my old companions, saying, "You are now about to return
to Unyanyembe, to the 'Great Master'. You know him; you know he is a
good man, and has a kind heart. He is different from me; he will not
beat you, as I have done. But you know I have rewarded you all - how
I have made you all rich in cloth and money. You know how, when you
behaved yourselves well, I was your friend. I gave you plenty to eat and
plenty to wear. When you were sick I looked after you. If I was so
good to you, the 'Great Master' will be much more so. He has a pleasant
voice, and speaks kind. When did you ever see him lift his hand against
an offender? When you were wicked, he did not speak to you in anger - he
spoke to you in tones of sorrow. Now, will you promise me that you will
follow him - do what he tells you, obey him in all things, and not desert
him?"

"We will, we will, my master!" they all cried, fervently.

"Then there is one thing more. I want to shake hands with you all before
you go - and we part for ever;" and they all rushed up at once, and a
vigorous shake was interchanged with each man.

"Now, let every man take up his load!"

In a short time I marched them out into the street, and to the beach;
saw them all on board, and the canvas hoisted, and the dhow speeding
westward on her way to Bagamoyo.

I felt strange and lonely, somehow. My dark friends, who had travelled
over so many hundreds of miles, and shared so many dangers with me, were
gone, and I - was left behind. How many of their friendly faces shall I
see again?

On the 29th, the steamer 'Africa,' belonging to the German Consulate,
was chartered by a party of five of us, and we departed from Zanzibar to
Seychelles, with the good wishes of almost all the European residents on
the island.

We arrived at Seychelles on the 9th of June, about twelve hours
after the French mail had departed for Aden. As there is only monthly
communication between Mahe (Seychelles) and Aden, we were compelled to
remain on the island of Mahe one month.

My life in Mahe is among the most agreeable things connected with my
return from Africa. I found my companions estimable gentlemen, and true
Christians. Mr. Livingstone exhibited many amiable traits of character,
and proved himself to be a studious, thoughtful, earnest man. When at
last the French steamer came from Mauritius, there was not one of
our party who did not regret leaving the beautiful island, and the
hospitable British officers who were stationed there. The Civil
Commissioner, Mr. Hales Franklyn, and Dr. Brooks, did their utmost to
welcome the wanderer, and I take this opportunity to acknowledge the
many civilities I personally received from them.

At Aden, the passengers from the south were transferred on board the
French mail steamer, the 'Mei-kong,' en route from China to Marseilles.
At the latter port I was received with open arms by Dr. Hosmer and
the representative of the 'Daily Telegraph,' and was then told how men
regarded the results of the Expedition; but it was not until I arrived
in England that I realised it.

Mr. Bennett, who originated and sustained the enterprise, now crowned it
by one of the most generous acts that could be conceived. I had promised
Dr. Livingstone, that twenty-four hours after I saw his letters to Mr.
Bennett published in the London journals, I would post his letters to
his family and friends in England. In order to permit me to keep my
plighted word, and in order that there might be no delay in the delivery
of his family letters, Mr. Bennett's agent telegraphed to New York the
'Herald' letters I had received from Dr. Livingstone at an expense of
nearly £2,000.

And now, dear reader, the time has come for you and I to part. Let us
hope that it is not final. A traveller finds himself compelled to repeat
the regretful parting word often. During the career recorded in the
foregoing book, I have bidden many farewells; to the Wagogo, with their
fierce effrontery; to Mionvu, whose blackmailing once so affected me; to
the Wavinza, whose noisy clatter promised to provoke dire hostilities;
to the inhospitable Warundi; to the Arab slave-traders and half-castes;
to all fevers, remittent, and intermittent; to the sloughs and swamps
of Makata; to the brackish waters and howling wastes; to my own
dusky friends and followers, and to the hero-traveller and Christian
gentleman, David Livingstone. It is with kindliest wishes to all
who have followed my footsteps on these pages that I repeat once
more - Farewell.



CONCLUDING CHAPTER.


The following correspondence, and especially the last letter, which
was accompanied by a beautiful and valuable gold snuff-box set with
brilliants, will be treasured by me as among the pleasantest results of
my undertaking.

H. M. S.

Foreign Office, August 1.

Sir, I am directed by Earl Granville to acknowledge the receipt of a
packet containing letters and despatches from Dr. Livingstone, which
you were good enough to deliver to her Majesty's ambassador at Paris
for transmission to this department; and I am to convey to you his
Lordship's thanks for taking charge of these interesting documents.

I am, Sir,

Your most obedient humble servant, ENFIELD.

Henry M. Stanley, Esq., 'New York Herald Bureau,' 46, Fleet Street,
London,

- - - ooo - -



London, August 2.

Henry M. Stanley, Esq., has handed to me to-day the diary of
Dr. Livingstone, my father, sealed and signed by my father, with
instructions written on the outside, signed by my father, for the care
of which, and for all his actions concerning and to my father, our very
best thanks are due. We have not the slightest reason to doubt that this
is my father's journal, and I certify that the letters he has brought
home are my father's letters, and no others.

Tom S. Livingstone

- - - - - - oooo - - - -

August 2, 1872.

Sir, I was not aware until you mentioned it that there was any doubt as
to the authenticity of Dr. Livingstone's despatches, which you delivered
to Lord Lyons on the 31st of July. But, in consequence of what you
said I have inquired into the matter, and I find that Mr. Hammond, the
Under-Secretary of the Foreign Office, and Mr. Wylde, the head of the
Consular and Slave Trade Department, have not the slightest doubt as to
the genuineness of the papers which have been received from Lord Lyons,
and which are being printed.

I cannot omit this opportunity, of expressing to you my admiration
of the qualities which have enabled you to achieve the object of your
mission, and to attain a result which has been hailed with so much
enthusiasm both in the United States and in this country.

I am, Sir,

Your obedient,

GRANVILLE.

Henry Stanley, Esq.


- - - - - - -oooo - - - -

Foreign Office, August 27.

SIR,

I have great satisfaction in conveying to you, by command of the Queen,
her Majesty's high appreciation of the prudence and zeal which you have
displayed in opening a communication with Dr. Livingstone, and relieving
her Majesty from the anxiety which, in common with her subjects, she had
felt in regard to the fate of that distinguished traveller.

The Queen desires me to express her thanks for the service you have thus
rendered, together with her Majesty's congratulations on your having so
successfully carried on the mission which you fearlessly undertook. Her
Majesty also desires me to request your acceptance of the memorial which
accompanies this letter.

I am, Sir,

Your most obedient humble servant,

GRANVILLE







GLOSSARY.

Boma....... enclosure.

Bubu....... black beads.

Diwan...... elder, chief, or magistrate.

Doti...... four yards of cloth.

Dowa...... medicine.

Fundo...... ten necklaces, or ten khetes.

Ghulabio..... a species of bead.

Hafde ..... a species of bead.

Hamal ..... carrier.

Honga ..... tribute.

Ismahili..... a native name for a particular kind of cloth.

Kadunguru..... a brick-coloured species of bead.

Kaif-Halek.... "How do you do?"

Kaniki .... a blue cloth manufactured in India.

Knambi .... camp.

Khete .... one necklace, or a tenth of a fundo.

Kichuma-chuma... "Little Irons," a disease of the liver.

Kirangozi.... guide.

Kitambi .... a cloth.

Kiti..... stool.

Lakhio..... a pink-coloured species of bead.

Lunghio..... blue beads.

Lunghio mbamba... small blue beads.

Lunghio rega... large blue beads.

M ..... a prefix to denote a person of any
country as M-jiji, a native of Jiji.

Manyapara.... elder, or sub-chief.

Matama..... Holcus sorghum, or the Arabic dourra.

Mbembu..... forest peach

Merikani..... unbleached domestics manufactured in
America.

Mganga..... a medicine man, or magic doctor,

Miezi-Mungu.... a Kisawahili term for "God."

Mtemi .... a term synonymous with king

Mtoni..... nullah.

Muhongo..... tribute.

Mulungu..... a native term for "God."

Mukunguru.... intermittent fever.

Mvuha..... thunder.

Ngombe..... a cow.

Pagazi..... a porter, or carrier.

Posho..... food.

Sami-Sami.... the name of red beads

Shamba..... a field.

Shasr..... a muslin cloth.

Sheikh..... a title of courtesy given to an elderly
man.

Shukka..... two yards of cloth.

Sohari..... a kind of coloured cloth.

Sungomazzi.... large glass or china beads of the size
of marbles.

Toujiri..... the name for a particular kind of cloth.

U ..... a prefix to denote the country: thus
U-jiji signifies the country of Jiji.

Uganga..... medicine.

Wa- ..... a prefix to denote persons: thus Wa-jiji
would signify people of Jiji.

Washeni..... a term of contempt applied to the natives.

Yambo..... "How are you?"

Ziwa ..... a pool, or lake,

Ziwari..... a pond.




APPENDIX.

List of Camps from Bagamoyo to Ujiji and back to the Sea.


THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA.

From Bagamoyo to - h. m.
Shamba Gonera... 1 30
Kikoka..... 3 40
Rosako..... 5 0
Kingaru.... 6 0
Imbiki..... 4 30
Msuwa..... 4 30

From Msuwa to - h. m.
Kisemo..... 4 30
Mussoudi.... 4 20
Mikeseh.... 7 0
Muhalleh.... 6 45
Simbamwenni... 3 0

TO UGOGO.

USEGUHA,
Ungerengeri River to - h. m
Simbo..... 2 0
Camp in plain... 4 10
Makata River... 2 30

USAGARA.
Camp west of Makata. 0 5
Camp in plain... 4 30
Camp " "... 2 0
Rehenneko.... 3 15
Rehenneko to - h. m.
Camp on mountain.. 3 30
Kiora..... 3 40
Camp on river... 4 50
Madete..... 2 30
Lake Ugombo.... 3 0
Matamombo.... 6 0
Mpwapwa..... 7 0
Kisokweh.... 2 0
Chunyo..... 1 30


FROM UGOGO TO UNYANYEMBE,

From Marenga Mkali to - h. m.
Mvumi, Little Ugogo 12 30
Mvumi, Great Ugogo 4 0
Matamburu " ". 4 0
Bihawana " ". 4 0
Kididimo " ". 2 0
Pembera Pereh ". 10 0
Mizanza " ". 5 30
Mukondoku " ". 6 30
Munieka " ". 5 0
Mabunguru Mtoni.
Uyanzi 8 0
Kiti, Uyanzi... 6 30
Msalalo.... 6 30

From Msalalo to - h. m.
Welled Ngaraiso.. 3 30
Kusuri..... 3 15
Mgongo Tembo... 3 30
" " Mtoni. 3 30
Nghwhalah Mtoni.. 2 40
Madedita ... 2 30
Central Tura, Unyam-
wezi.... 3 0
Kwala River... 7 0
Rubuga.... 7 15
Kigwa .... 5 0
Shiza .... 7 0
Kwihara.... 3 0


UNYANYEMBE TO MRERA, UKONONG0.


UNYAMWEZI.
From Kwihara to - h. m.
Mkwenkwe... 1 30
Inesuka ... 2 0
Kasegera... 3 0
Kigandu ... 2 45
Ugunda ... 7 0
Benta ... 3 15
Kikuru ... 5 0
Ziwani ... 4 0
Manyara ... 6 30

UKONONG0.
From Manyara to - h. m
Gombe River... 4 15
Ziwani.... 5 20
Tongoni.... 1 30
Camp .... 5 15
Marefu.... 3 0
Utende.... 7 15
Mtoni.... 4 0
Mwaru.... 5 15
Mrera..... 5 13


FROM MRERA, UKONONGO TO UJIJI.



UKONONGO, h. m.

From Mrera to Mtoni. 4 30
Misonghi.... 4 30
Mtoni..... 6 0
Mpokwa in Utanda.. 4 45
Mtoni .... 3 0

UKAWENDI. h. m

Mtambu River... 4 30
Imrera.... 4 20
Rusawa Mts.... 2 30
Mtoni .... 4 0
Mtoni .... 5 0
Camp in Forest... 6 0
Camp in Forest... 5 30

UVINZA
Welled Nzogera... 2 30
Camp in Forest... 4 15
Siala [Kiala?] on the
Malagarazi... 2 45
Ihata Island in the
Malagarazi... 1 30
Katalambula... 1 45

UHHA
Kawanga in Uhha.. 5 30
Lukomo.... 1 0
Kahirigi.... 4 0
Rusugi River... 5 0
Lake Musunya... 4 0
Rugufu River... 4 30
Sunuzzi "... 3 0
Niamtaga Ukaranga. 9 30

UJIJI.
Port of Ujiji.. 6 0





INDEX

Abdul Kader, tailor of the Expedition; retirement of,
Abdullah bin Nasib,
Acacia Horrida,
African bridges,
Ali bin Salim,
Ambari,
Amer bin Sultan, type of an old Arab Sheikh,
Amram bin Mussood,
Ant-hills, remarkable,
Ants, white, destructiveness of,
Arabs, antipathy to, as slave-traders, in Africa,
Aranselar, chief butler of the Expedition,
Asmani, giant statue of;
his murderous deportment,

Baba (Father), term of courtesy in addressing elderly persons,
Bagamoyo, French Mission Station at; life at; climate of,
Bambarre, ivory depot,
Bana Mikuba, the "Big Master,'
Bangwe Island,
Bangweolo Lake,
Banyans, keen trading of;
their influence on African trade,
Baobab, fruit of the,
Baruti, one of Speke's Faithfuls,
death of,
Beads as currency in the Interior,
Bees, attack of, on the caravan,
Bemba, wooded hills of,
Bennet, Mr. James Gordon;
generous act of, in respect
to Dr. Livingstone's letters,
Benta forest,
Bihawana,
Bikari, cluster of villages,
"Bombay," or Mombay,
Bomboma's village,
Borassus flabelliformis, or Palmyra palm,
Brooks, Dr.,
Buffalo gnats,
- - herd,
Bunder Salaam, cook of the Expedition,
Burial ceremonies,
Burton, Capt., experience of Bunyans,
Bustard,

Cazembe, King; his Queen and her Amazons,
Chamati Hill,
Chambezi, drainage of,
Chambezi, Livingstone's difficulty about the,
"Charley's" lodging-house at Zanzibar, kindly spirit of its
landlord,
Chowpereh, Mgwana soldier,,
Christie, Dr., physician to Seyd Burghash
Chufwa fly,
Chuma, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
Cloth as currency in the interior,
Comorines,
Corn-grinding women of Kisemo,
Crocodile, narrow escape of author from,

'Daily Telegraph,' representative of, at Aden,
Dawson, Lieut., visit from, conversation as to his resigning
command of the Search Expedition
Dhows,
Dilima Peaks,
Dogara, or whitebait,
Donkeys, equipment of; fine breed of, in Ubanarama,
"Dowa," medicine,

Earwigs, plague of, at Mpwapwa,
Elephantiasis common in Zanzibar,
Elephants, herd of; difficulty of shooting,
Emancipation Proclamation of Ahraham Lincoln,
Esau, Jemadar,

Farquhar, W. L.;
his death; account of,
Faulkner, Mr., incredible statements of,
Ferajji,
Fire-arms, what most suitable to the traveller
Fish-eagle,
Forest peach,
Forest scenery of Unyarnwezi,
Foreign Office, letters from,
Franklyn, Mr. Hales,
Fraser, Capt.,
Freiligrath's description of the lion's habitat,
French Mlissionaries, practical character of; Mission Station
at Bagamoyo,

Giraffes, difficulty of killing,
Glossina mortisans, or tsetse fly
Goma Pass;
Granville, Lord, letter from, conveying the thanks of Queen
Victoria and the announcement of the Royal present,
Goodhue, Mr., or "Bana Mkuba."

Haematite,
Half-castes, contemptible character
Halimah, Dr. Livingstone's cook,
Hassan, the Mseguhha,
Henn Lieut, his meeting with the author; resigns the leadership
Herembe, Cape,
Herodotus, his account of the Nile sources,
Hindis, Mohammedan, cheating character of,
Hippopotami
Honey-bird; habits of,
Honga, or tribute,
Hosmer, Dr.,
Hunters Paradise, the,
Hyaenas,

Ibrahim bin Rashid slain,
Ihata Island,
Imbiki,
Itage village,

Jako, employe of the Expedition,
Jesuit Mission at Pagamoyo,
Jiweh la Singa district,
Johari, dragoman,
Jumah,
Jungle of Msuwa, its horrors,

Kabogi, Cape,
Kabogo Mountain, singular phenomenon of,
Kadetamare, or Misonghi, village,.
Kahirigi, boma of,
Kaif-Halek or "How-do-ye-do," the letter carrier,
Kalulu, the boy-slave,
Kamolondo Lake,
Kanengi River,
Kaniyaga village
Kanjee,
Kanyamabengu River,
Kanyenyi,
Kayeh, a myth,
Kasera ridge,
Katanga, copper mines of,
Katangara Islands,
Kavimba,
Khamis bin Abdullah; his death,
Khamisi, desertion of; his narrow escape; flogged for
desertion; precis of character,
Khonze, remarkable globes of foliage at
Kiala, chief,
Kigoma Bay,
Kigonda, chief,
Kigwena River,
Kikoka village,
Kikuma River,
Kingari River,
- - Valley,
Kingaru village
Kingwere, the canoe paddler
Kiora village,; Peak
Kirindo, chief,
Kirurumo village,
Kisabengo, chief, a minor Theodore,
Kisemo village; belles of,
Kisuka village,
Kisunwe River,
Kitanda or bedstead,
Kitii defile,
Kitunda Cape,
Kiwyeh, Sultan of; village,
Kiwrima Valley,
Kolquall or candelabra tree,
Kudu,
Kukumba Point,
Kulabi,
Kusuri or Konsuli,
Kwala Mtoni,
Kwikuru,

Lares and Penates of the Wazavira,
Leukole's account of Farquhar's death,
Liemba, Lake,
Lincoln, Abraham, lake named after, by Livingstone,
Lion and leopard, home of the; Freiligrath's description of,
Liuche, valley of the,
Livingstone, Dr., the author's first interview with, at Ujiji;
his anxiety for news; the low ebb of his resources;
his early rising; took the author for an emissary of the
French Government; his hard fare; his suffering and privations;
revival of his enthusiasm; his guileless character;
his physical appearance,; absurd report of his marriage,
his general character and careful observations; sensitiveness
of criticism; amiable traits of his character, and his Spartan
heroism; his high spirits, inexhaustible humour, and retentive
memory; sincerity of his religion; ability to withstand the
African climate, due to his temperate life; his determination
to complete his task, spite of all difficulties, completeness
of his discoveries; summary of his experiences; interview with
King Cazembe; difficulty as to the Chambezi; discovery of Lake
Liemba; investigation of the Luapula; intervention in behalf of
Mahomed bin Sali repaid by base ingratitude; exploration of Uguhha;
sufferings at Bambarre, discovery of the Lualaba, description of
the beauties of Moero scenery; admiration of Abraham Lincoln;
his belief that the Lualaba or Webb's River is the true Nile;
his admission that the Nile sources have not been found;
his opinion as to the account of Herodotus; thwarted by the
cowardice of his men; return to Ujiji; dishonesty of Sherif;
destitute condition of the Doctor, his complaint of the Zanzibar
people not sending him freemen; improvement of his health from
more generous diet, contemplated cruise on the Tanganika; start
from Ujiji; liability to dysentery; manner of dealing with demands
for honga; loss of stores, &c., from Bombay's intoxication
his unwillingness to retaliate on the hostile natives, his
tenderness in sickness, disturbed in bed by his servant Susi in
a state of intoxication; his opinion that the Tanganika must have
an outlet; names the Kavunvweh islands the "New York Herald
Islets,"; his coolness at the hostility of the Wasansi, calms
them down by his gentle bearing and conversation; his resolve
to finish his task,; complaint of Dr. Kirk's sending only slaves;
resolves to accompany the author to Unyanyembe; his sufferings on
the road; at Mpokwa's village,; his value as a travelling companion;
stung by wild bees; his qualifications as a traveller,
peaceful recollections of his wife's grave, his relation of
incidents of the life of his son Robert; arrival at Ugundo,
letters from Dr. Kirk and home; welcome to Unyanyembe; in
comfortable quarters and in possession of stores; wreck of the
stores detained by Sayd bin Salim; in possession of four years'
store of supplies; his letter to Mr. Bennett, jun.; probable
results of his perseverance in African discovery; his last day
with the author; his intentions as to the future; the parting
farewell,
Livingstone, Mr. Oswell, introduction to; equipment of his proposed
expedition; determines to resign,
Livingstone, Robert Moffatt, incidents of his life,
Lizard, large,
Loeki or Lomani River,
Lualaba or "Webb's River" of Livingstone; thought by him to be the
true Nile,
Luapula River,
Lubilash River,
Ludha Damji,
Lufira River,
Luhanga Peak,
Lukomo village,
Luvumba Cape,

Mabruki, cruel treatment of;
Mabunguru Nullah,
Madedita,
Magala, Mutware of,
Maganga,
Magunda Mkali,
Mahommed bin Sali, his release by Livingstone and subsequent
ingratitude,
Maizun, Mons.,
Makata Valley; River; Plain,
Makumbi, chief,
Malagash, Inlet,
Malagarazi River,
Manyuema country, people of; the El Dorado of the Arabs; sought
as slaves,
Maganga,
Marefu,
Marenga Mkali,
Masangi,
Masika, or rainy season,
Matamombo,
Mazitu, marauding propensities of,
Mbawala, species of antelope,
Mbembu, or forest peach,
Mdaburu River,
Medicine for daubing warriors,
Mfuto, Eastern,
Mgongo Tembo, or "Elephant's Back,"
Mgwana,
Mikiseh,
Mionvu, Mutware of Kimenyi,
Mirambo; defeated at Mfuto,
Misonghi, deserted village,
Mizanza,
Mkuti River,
Mkuyu, gigantic sycamore,
Moero Lake; beauty of the scenery,
Mohammed bin Abdulla slain,
Mohammed bin Gharib,
Monkeys, troop of,
Morris, Hon. E. J.,
Mpokwa River,
Mponda, chief,
Mpwapwh, its fruitfulness;
Mountains,
Mrera, chief,
- -, warriors of,
Msuwa,
Mtemi, chief,
Mud-fish,
Mugere River,
Mugeyo village,
Mugihewa territory,
Mukamba, chief,
Mukondoku, chief,
Mukondokwa Range; Pass; River,
Mukungu,
Mukunguru, African intermittent fever,
Munieka,
Muniyi Usagara,
Murembwe Cape; Point,
Musa, chief of the Johanna men,
Muscat Arabs of Zanzibar,
Mussoudi, the Diwan's account of an extraordinary flood,
Musunya Lake,
Muzimu Island,
Mvumi village,
Mwaru,
Myombo tree,
Mussoud bin Abdhullah,
Mussoudi; beautiful prospect at,

"Nazi-Moya" at Zanzibar,
Negroes of Zanzibar; character of,
New, Rev. Charles, introduction to,
"New York Herald" Islets,
Ngaraiso village,
Nghwhalah River,
Nguru Peak,
Niamtaga,
Niasanga village,
Niongo,
Nondo, Spoke's runaway,



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