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Henry T Williams.

Pacific tourist : Adams and Bishop's illustrated trans-continental guide of travel, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean : a complete traveler's guide of the Union and Central Pacific railroads online

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Online LibraryHenry T WilliamsPacific tourist : Adams and Bishop's illustrated trans-continental guide of travel, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean : a complete traveler's guide of the Union and Central Pacific railroads → online text (page 23 of 62)
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The city is now nearly thirty years old, and
in that time the tourist can see for him-
self what wonderful changes have been
made. The desert truly buds and blossoms
as the rose. The city is admirably located
for beauty, and at once charms its visitors.
The tourist should engage a carriage and drive
up and down the shaded streets, and see the wil-
derness of fruit groves and gardens. The first
practical thing, however, with the traveler is to
select his stopping place, during liis visit. Of
hotels there are two first-class houses that are
popular resorts with the traveling public. The
Walker House is a four story brick structure with
132 rooms. It is located on the west side of
Main Street, has a frontage of 82 feet and a
depth of 120 feet. It has lately been entirely
renovated and handsomely furnished; also has
had the addition of a passenger elevator. It is
especially noted for its excellent table, which is
abundant in game, fruits, fish, etc. The Town-
send House is on the corner of West Temple
and South Second streets, and has a fine shady
piazza along the front. Both of these hotels face
eastward, both are lighted with gas, and both are
supplied with all modern conveniences and lux-
uries. There are, also, other good hotels in the
city, which are considered second-class, and are
largely patronized.

Si(/Ms for Tourists. Having selected a
stopping place, the next thing is a visit to the
warm sulphur springs, for a bath. The street



135




OFFICES AND FAMILY RESIDENCE OF BR1OHAM YOITNG.



cars, running by nearly all the hotels, will take
you there.

Warm Springs. These are, to invalids,
the most grateful and delightful places of resort
in the city. Exceedingly valuable either for
rheumatic or dyspeptic complaints, they are ex-
cellent in general invigorating properties, and
specially efficacious in skin diseases. They are
but about one mile from the hotel, reached either
by horse-cars or carriage. Even a pleasant walk
is preferable. Best times to enjoy them are early
in the morning before breakfast, or immediately
before dinner. Should never be taken within
three hours after a meal. The springs issue
from the limestone rock near the foot of the
mountains, and the curious character of the rock
is seen in the stones used for either fences or the
foundation of the buildings. The following an-
alysis has been made of the water by Dr. Charles
S. Jackson of Boston, and is generally posted on
the walls of the bathing-house.

" Three fluid ounces of the water, on evapo-
rating to entire dryness in a platine capsule, gave
8.25 grains of solid dry saline matter.

Carbonate of lime and magnesia, 0.240 1.280

Peroxide of iron, 0.040 0.208

Lime. 0.545 2.907

Chlorine, 3.454 1842!

Soda. 2.877 15.344

Magnesia, 0.370 2.073

Sulphuric Acid, 0.703 3.748

8.229 43.981

It is slightly charged with hydro-sulphuric acid
gas, and with carbonic acid gas, and is a pleas-
ant, saline mineral water, having the valuable
properties belonging to a saline sulphur spring.

The temperature is lukewarm, and, being of
a sulphurous nature, the effects are very pene-
trating ; at first the sensation is delicious, pro-
ducing a delightful feeling of ease and re-



pose ; but if the bather remains long, over
fifteen minutes, there is danger of weakness and
too great relaxation. These baths are now un-
der control of an experienced gentleman, and
fitted up with every modern convenience. Here
are Turkish baths, Hot Air baths and Russian
baths, in addition to the natural bath. The
warm sulphur-water can be enjoyed in private




NEW MORMON TEMPLE.



rooms, or in the large plunge or swimming bath.
Separate rooms for ladies and gentlemen, and a
smaller building near by is fixed up for the boys,
where they can frolic to their heart's content.
Hot Springs. The tourist should take a



136



carriage, and, after visiting the Warm Springs
and enjoying the bath, drive a mile farther north
to where the mountain spur juts out to the very
railroad and, right at its base are situated the
" Hot Spring*" which are the greatest natural
curiosity of the city. The water boils up, with
great force, from a little alcove in the limestone
rocks, just even with the surface of the ground.
If you dare to thrust your hand in it, you will
find it boiling hot, apparently with a temperature
of over 200. The h' nger can not be retained in
the water for the best part of a minute ; yet the
sensation, as it is withdrawn, is so soft and cool-
ing, you will like to try it again and again and,
strange to say, rarely with any danger of scald-
ing. If meat is dropped into this boiling water,



agriculture and vegetation for hundreds of yards
within the vicinity. This lake is also supposed
to be supplied, to some extent, by other hot
springs beneath the surface. Strange as it may
seem, the hot water does not prevent the ex-
istence of some kinds of excellent fish, among
which have been seen some very fine large trout.
Analysis of Hot Sulphur Spring :



Chloride of Sodium,

" Magnesium,
" " C ilcium,
Sulphate of Lime.
Carbonaie of Lime,
Silica,



0.8052
0.0288
0.1096
0.0806
0.0180
0.0180

1.0602



Specific gravity, 1.1454.

The Museum is located on the south side




INTERIOR OF OFFICE OF THE MORMAN PRESIDENT.



it is soon cooked, (though we cannot guarantee
a pleasant tast^) and eggs will b^ boiled, ready
for the table, in three minutes. Often a dense
voliima of steam rises from the spring, though
not always, A very large volume of water issues
forth from the little hole in the rock scarcely
larger than the top of a barrel about four feet
widi and six to twenty inches deep. Immedi-
ately near the rock is a little pool, in which the
water, still hot, deposits a peculiar greenish color
on the. sides, and coats the long, wavy grass with
its sulphurous sediment. Flowing beneath the
railroad track and beyond in the meadows, it
forms a beautiful little lake, called Hut Spring
Lake, which, constantly filling up, is steadily in-
creasing its area, and, practid !ly, destroying all



of South Temple street, and directly opposite
the Tabernacle Professor Barfoot is in charge,
and he will show you specimen ores from the
mines, precious stones from the desert, pottery-
ware and other articles from the ruins of ancient
Indian villages, the first boat ever launched on the
Great Salt Lake by white men, home-made
cloths and silks, the products of the industry of
this people, specimen birds of Utah, a scalp
from the head of a dead Indian, implements of
Indian warfare and industry, such as blankets
white people cannot make, shells from the ocean,
and various articles from the Sandwich Islands,
and other things too numerous to mention.

Forni'-i-ly there were quit" a number of living
wild aiiim Us kept here, but some fiend poisoned



137




VIEW OF SALT LAKE CITY, LOOKING WESTWARD ACROSS THE JORDAN VALLEY.



the most of them. There are now living, how-
ever, a large horned owl, a prairie dog, and the
owls that burrow with him, together with the
rattlesnake ; also other birds and reptiles which
need not be named. This institution is the re-
sult of the individual enterprise of John W.




CO-OPERATIVE






SIGN OF MORMON STORES. SALT LAKE CITY.



Young, Esq., and for which he is entitled to
great credit. A nominal sum, simply, is charged
for admission, which goes for the support of Pro-
fessor Barfoot, who has the care and direction of
the Museum.- Across the street, behind a high
wall, is the Tabernacle, and near by it, on the
east, enclosed within the same high wall, are the
foundation walls of the new Temple. We shall
not attempt a description of either, as a personal
inspection will be far more satisfactory to the
visitor. We advise every tourist to get to the
top of the Tabernacle, if possible, and get a view
of the city from the roof. Within the same
walls may be found the Endowment house, of
which so much has been written. In this build-
ing both monogamous and polygamous marriages
take place, and the quasi-masonic rites of the
church are performed. On South Temple street,
east of Temple block, is the late residence of
Brigham Young, also enclosed in a high wall
which shuts out the rude gaze of passers-by, and
gently reminds the outsider that he has no busi-
ness to obtrude there. Nearly opposite to this
residence is a large and beautiful house which
is supposed to belong to the Prophet's favorite
wife, Amelia familiarly called Amf.lia Palace,
probably the finest residence for 500 miles around.
Returning to East Temple or Main street, we
behold a large brick building with iron and
glass front, three stories high, with a skylight its



138



entire length. This is the new "co-op" store,
40 feet wide and 300 feet long, with all the mod-
ern improvements, steam elevator, etc. Nearly
opposite this store is Savage's picture gallery,
whose photographs of scenery and views
along the road, are the finest of any ever
issued in the Great West. Continuing on
the same street, south, and the elegant build-
ing of the Deseret National Bank greets
our gaze, on the north-east corner of East
Temple and First
South streets. Di-
agonally across the
street from this is
the emporium of
William Jennings,
Esq. But it is
needless to. enu-
merate all the
buildings in the
city, be they pub-
lic or private.
We must not omit,
however, the ele-
gant private resi-
dence and beau-
tiful grounds of
Mr. Jennings, on
the corner east of
the depot. Th'ay
are worthy of a
visit, and so, also,
is the elegant pri-
vate residence of
Feramor Little,
directly east of the
Deseret National
Bank. The theater
is open occasion-
ally in the even-
ing, where may be
seen many of the
leading Mormons
and their families.

The city is sup-
plied with gas,
water, and street
railroads. The
water is brought
from City Creek
Canon, through the principal streets, in iron
pipes, though in some seasons the supply is
rather short.

Scenery Near the City. North of the city,
Ensign Peak lifts its head, the Mountain of
Prophecy, etc. Its crown is oval in shape, and
the mountain, etc , is said to have been seen in a
vision by some of the Mormon dignitaries long
before it was beheld by the naked eyes of the
present settlers. The sight from this peak, or
others near at hand, is grand and impressive.
Under your feet lies the City of the Saints, to




INTERIOR OF MORMON TABERNACLE. THE GREAT ORGAN.



the west the Great Salt Lake, to the south the
valley of the river Jordan, the settlements along
the line of the railroad, and the mountains on
either side. Though the way to the summit re-
quires a little toil, and will expand one's lungs to
the fullest extent, yet the reward, when once the
summit is reached, will amply pay for all the
toil it has cost.

In the summer months only, the Tabernacle is
open, and the services of the Mormon church are

then held there
nearly every Sab-
bath. Behind the
rostrum or pulpit
is the great organ,
made in the city,
and said to be the
second in size on
the Continent.

East of the city
there seems to be
a withdrawal of
the mountains and
a part of a circle,
formed like an
amphitheatre.
About two miles
east is Camp
Douglas, estab-
lished by General
Connor during the
latewa v . It is beau-
tifully located on
an elevated bench
commanding the
city,and at the base
of the mountains.
New buildings
have been erected,
and it is now
considered one
of the finest and
most convenient
posts the govern-
ment has. It is
supplied with
water from Red
Butte Canon, and
has a great many
conveniences.
Below Camp Douglas, Emigration Canon next
cuts the mountains in twain. It is the canon
through which Orson Pratt and his companions
came when they first discovered the valley, the
lake, and the site for a city through which
Brigham Young and the pioneers came, and w:is
the route by which nearly all the overland emi-
grants arrived, on coming from the East. Below
this, as you look south, is Parley's Canon,
through which a road leads to Parley's Park and
the mining districts in that region. Then comes
South Mill Creek with its canon, through the



139



towering peaks, and then the Big Cottonwood
Creek and Canon. Between it and Little Cot-
tonwood Canon, next on the south, is the mount-
ain of silver or the hill upon which is located
some of the richest paying mines in the Terri-
tory. Here is the Flagstaff, the North Star, the
Emma, the Reed & Benson, and others worth
their millions. The Emma mine has become
notorious in the history of mines, but there is
not a practical miner in Utah who doubts the
existence of large bodies of rich ore there, and,
if it had been practically worked, would, in the
opinion of
many, have
equaled, if not
exceeded, the
celebrated Corn-
stock lode be-
fore this.

No visitor to
Salt Lake
s h o u Id leave
the city with-
out a trip to the
lake and a ride
on its placid
bosom a trip,
also, to the
southern ter-
minus of the
Utah Southern
Railroad, the
mountains and
cations along
its line, and to
the mountains
and mines of
Stockton,
Ophir, Bing-
ham, and above
all, the Cotton-
wood districts.
If you are fur-
ther inclined to
improve the op-
portunity, ride
up to Parley's
Park, go to
Provo and spend a week, or a month even, in
visiting the wonderful canons near there, and
in hunting and fishing in the mountain streams
and in Lake Utah. A trip to the summit of
old Mount Nebo would afford you good ex-
ercise, and very fine views. With Salt Lake
for headquarters, all these places can be taken
in, and your only regret will be that you did
not stay longer, travel farther, and see more of
this wonderful land.

Gardening, Irrigation. The city was
originally laid out in large ten acre blocks, which
were, in time, subdivided into house lots, most
of which, having been liberally planted with




NEW RESIDENCE OF BRIGHAM YOUNG. AMELIA PALACE.



fruit trees, have since grown with great luxuri-
ance, and the city seems a vast fruit orchard and
garden. Through all the streets run the little
irrigating streams, and every part of the city
has its chance, once or twice a week, to get a sup-
ply of pure water to wet the soil and freshen the
vegetation.

The city is divided into wards. Every ward
has its master, and he compels all the inhab-
itants to turn out and work on public impi'ove-
ments. There is no shirking. Every one has a
responsibility to guard and watch his own

property, take
care of his own
irrigating
ditches, and
keep his ward
in perfect order.
The city is one
of perfect order
and quietness.

Through all
the streets of
the city there
is a universal
and luxuriant
growth of
shade trees.
These have
been planted
profusely, and
grow with
amazing rapid-
ity. The lo-
cust, maple and
box-elder, are
the greatest fa-
vorites, the for-
mer, however,
being most
planted. In
many cases
the roots have
struck the al-
kali soils, which
contain an ex-
cess o f soda
and potash, and
their leaves have turned from a bright or dark
green to a sickly yellow and often trees may be
noticed, half green and half yellow.

This alkali has to be washed out of the soil by
irrigation, and gradually grows less positive year
by year. In nearly all the gardens are splendid
apples, pears, plums and apricots, growing with
exceeding thrift, and covered with the most
beautiful blushing colors. Apricots which in
the East are almost unknown, here have been so
abundant as often to sell as low as $1.00 per
bushel, and we have seen them as large as east-
ern peaches, from four to six and eight inches
round.



140



Flowers are very abundant, and vegetables are
wonderfully prolific. In the gardens of William
Jennings, may be seen growing out doors on
trellises, grapes, the Black Hamburgh, Golden
Chasselas and Mission grape, varieties which are
only grown in a hot-house in the East. Through
all the gardens can be seen an abundance of
raspberries, gooseberries and currants. In Mr.
Jennings's garden, in summer, may be seen a
pretty flower garden, 150 feet in diameter,
within the center of which is a piece of velvety
lawn the finest and most perfect ever seen
while from it, southward, can be caught a spe-
cially gloriofls view of the Twin Peaks of the
Wahsatch Mountains, capped with unvarying
snow.

Future of Salt Lake City. The future of
Salt Lake depends upon two things the mines
and the railroads. If the mines are developed
and capital is thus increased, it will have a ten-
dency to cause an immense amount of building
in the city, and a corresponding advance in real
estate. It is claimed that the city now has a
population of 30,000 souls, but we 'think 22,000
a closer estimate. Many parties owning and
operating mines make the city their place of
residence, and some have already invested in
real estate there. We heard the opinion of a
wealthy capitalist a gentleman operating in
mines to the effect that in ten years Salt Lake
would number 250,000 people, but he was a little
enthusiastic. If the Utah Southern is extended
to the Pacific Coast, it will add largely to the
wealth, population and influence of the " City of
the Saints." The silent influence of the Gen-
tiles and the moral power of the Nation has
already had an effect upon the Mormons of the
city, which will soon be felt throughout the Ter-
ritory. The discovery and development of the
mines will largely increase the Gentile popula-
tion throughout the Territory, and their influ-
ence will then be each year more powerfully felt,
and we question if Mormonism will be strong
enough to withstand them.

Newspapers. The press of Salt Lake is
exceedingly peculiar. The Daily News is the
recognized church organ ; the Daily Herald is
more lively. It is the organ of the so-called pro-
gressive Mormons. The Daly Tnlmne is a
stinging, lively journal the leading organ of
the opposition to the priesthood and the the-
ocracy. The Mail is an evening paper under
Gentile influences, but not as bold or belligerent
as the Tribune. The Utah Weekly Miner is a
paper devoted to the development of the mineral
resources of the Territory. There is another lit-
tle evening paper called the Time*, under church
influences. Fortunes have been expended upon
newspaper enterprises in Salt Lake, but with the
exception of the three papers first mentioned,
none have succeeded. The ground is now, how-
ever, fully occupied, and further efforts should



be directed toward improving those already
established, rather than in new and costly ex-
periments.

The Utah Southern Railroad. This
road is really a continuation of the Utah Cen-
tral. It was begun on the 1st day of May, 1871,
and completed to Sandy that same year. In
1872 it was extended to Lehi, about thirty miles
from Salt Lake City. In 1873 it was extended
to Provo, and its present terminus is at York, a
little place just across the divide between Lake
Utah and Juab Valley. It will probably be ex-
tended from a hundred to a hundred and fifty
miles the present year. York is 75 miles
from Salt Lake City, and 10 miles from Nephi,
the next town on its proposed line of any im-
portance. The stockholders of the Union Pacific
Road, own a controlling interest in this, as also
in the Utah Central. It will probably be ex-
tended to the Pacific Coast sometime. The
following is the record ol freight received and
forwarded at the Salt Lake City Station for the
year 1875. Freight received, 70,91(5,527 Ibs.
Freight forwarded, 71,9(59,954 Ibs. Its gross
earnings for same period, were f 188,987.(50, and
its operating expenses, were $1 20,650.87. The
great bulk of its business is between Salt Lake
City and Sandy, though travel and traffic are
gradually increasing on the balance of its line,
and will rapidly double up as soon as the road
shall have reached the rich mining districts in
the southern portions of Utah, which are at pres-
ent comparatively undeveloped. Its general di-
rection is .southward from Salt Lake City, up the
Jordan Valley to the Valley of Lake Utah, and
thence across the divide as before mentioned.
Travelers visiting this Territory should not fail
to visit the towns, valleys and mountains on this
line of road. The Valley of Lake Utah espe-
cially, entirely surrounded by mountains lofty and
rugged, will compare favorably, so far as magnifi-
cent scenery is concerned, with anything of a
similar character to be found either in Europe
or America. Leaving Salt Lake City, we slowly
pass through the limits of the coiporation where
cultivated fields and gardens, with farm houses
and fine orchards of all kinds of fruit trees,
giving evidences of thrift on every side, greet
our gaze. Streams of water are constantly run-
ning through the irrigating ditches, and the
contrast between the cultivated lands and the
sage brush deserts, sometimes side by side, is
wonderful. On our left, the everlasting mount-
ains, with their crowns of snow almost always
visible, stand like an impenetrable barrier to ap-
proaches from the east, or like eternal finger-
boards, and say as plainly as words can indicate
"go south or north ; you cannot puss us." On
the right, the river Jordan winds its way to the
waters of the great inland sea, while, beyond,
towering into the sky, are the peaks of the
Oquirrh Kange. You will need to keep your



141



eyes wide open, and gaze quickly upon the
rapidly changing scenes as they come into view,
or swiftly recede from your vision ; for, between
the scenes of nature and the works of man in
reclaiming this desert, you will hardly know
which to admire the most, or which is the most
worthy of your attention. Passing on, we arrive
at the first station

Ij'tttle Cottonwood, 7 miles from the city.
It is a way station at which trains do not stop
unless flagged, or the signal is given from on
board the train. All the canons and ravines in
the mountains supply more or less water, which
is gathered into canals and distributed through
ditches as re-
quired for the
fields, meadows
and orchards.
The well culti-
vated fields con-
tinue until we
arrive at

Junction,
12 miles from
Salt Lake City,
where the Bing-
ham Canon
Camp Floyd
Railroad inter-
sects the Utah
Southern. Pas-
sengers here
change cars for
Bingham Canon
and the mining
districts in that
vicinity. This
road i s about
twenty-two
miles long and
i s extensively
used in trans-
porting ore, bull-
ion, coke, coal
and charcoal to
and from the
mines and
smelting works
and railroad. It is a narrow gauge (three
feet) road and is now doing a fine business.

Sandy, 13 miles from the city and the point
of intersection of the Wahsatch & Jordan Val-
ley Railroad, narrow gauge (three feet). This
road turns off to the left and goes up Little
Cottonwood Canon, which can now plainly be
seen from the cars. The Big Cottonwood Canon
is also in sight. There they are, with the mount-
ain of silver between them. There is silver
enough in that mountain to pay the national
debt of the United States, with enough left to
pay for a huge fourth of July celebration. This
road has some very heavy grades, and, on the




SNOW SLIDE MOUNTAIN. LITTLE COTTONWOOD CANON.



upper end of it, horses, instead of engines, are
employed to haul the empty cars. These two
narrow gauge roads are now under one manage-
ment. The Little Cottonwood Koad is about
eighteen miles in length. Sandy is a flourish-
ing little town. It has several smelters, or
reduction works, where crude ore is converted
into bullion. The celebrated Flagstaff mine
has its smelting works here ; its ore is brought
down from the mine on the Wahsatch & Jor-
dan Valley Railroad. Every visitor to Utah,
who is at all interested in mines, or metal-
lurgy, will obtain a great deal of informa-
tion, and be amply repaid for the^time and ex-
pense of a visit
to its more cele-
brated mining
districts. A
visit to the Bing-
ham and Little
Cottonwood Dis-
tricts, certainly
should not be
neglected. Leav-
ing Sandy, we
enter into a des-
ert country
again ; the farm-
houses are scat-
tering, though
the land on the
right, toward
the immediate
vicinity of the
Jordan, is still
pretty well set-
tled. The next
station is

Draperville,
17 miles from
Salt Lake City.
It is an unim-
portant station,
convenient to a
little Mormon
settlement.
Leaving this sta-
tion \ve soon
cross South Willow Creek, and then follow the
outer rim of the hills around the valley toward
the right, like a huge amphitheatre. We have
been going up hill, and, as we turn to the right,



Online LibraryHenry T WilliamsPacific tourist : Adams and Bishop's illustrated trans-continental guide of travel, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean : a complete traveler's guide of the Union and Central Pacific railroads → online text (page 23 of 62)