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BERKELEY

LIBRARY

UNlVERSm OF
CALIFORNIA

1GRIC.REF.
SERVICE



Joe Tilden's Recipes
for Epicures



JOE TILDEN'S

RECIPES FOR

EPICURES




A. M. ROBERTSON

SAN FRANCISCO

1907



AG2IC.RSF*
SERVICE



COPYRIGHT BY

A. M. ROBERTSON

1907



THE SEQUOIA PRESS
BERKELEY. CALIFORNIA



TX



Introductory Note



Major Joseph Tilden was in his time one of the most
famous Bohemians and epicureans of the Pacific Coast.
Ever since his death his many friends have been trying
to learn the culinary secrets which made a repast of
his devising so delicious. He had given his recipes to
but few, and those few his most intimate friends and
fellow spirits. One of the most favored of his old
companions has given this complete collection of his
recipes for publication.

San Francisco, May, 1907.



507



SOUPS AND
CHOWDERS




_ SOUPS AND CHOWDERS _

Onion Soup

Place six ounces of butter in a large saucepan
over the fire, and stir into it four large white
onions cut up, not sliced. Stew this very slowly
for one hour, stirring frequently to prevent its
scorching. Add salt, pepper, cayenne, and
about one quart of stock, and cook one hour
longer. Then stir into the mixture one and a
half cups of milk and simmer for a few minutes.
Have ready a soup tureen. In it beat the yolks-
of four eggs with two tablespoonfuls of grated
Parmesan cheese. Stir the hot soup into this,
beating until it thickens a little. A slice of
toasted French bread should be placed in each
plate, and the soup poured over it.



Palestine Soup

Slice two or three Jerusalem artichokes and
place in two quarts of boiling water. Cook for
one and one-half hours. Then rub the arti-
chokes through a colander and add to them one

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JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES

pint of the water in which they were boiled.
Stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed into
the same amount of butter. Add two cups of
milk and boil for ten minutes. Season with salt
and pepper and serve with croutons.



Black Bean Soup

Soak over night one quart of black turtle
beans in water to cover them. In the morning
strain and boil them in four quarts of water for
one hour, skimming frequently. Then put into
the liquor two white onions sliced, two stalks of
celery cut into bits, salt, pepper, cayenne, and
one teaspoonful each of cloves and allspice.
Boil for three hours. Remove from the stove
and add enough stock to thin the mixture to
the consistency of a cream soup. Pour into it
nearly a tumbler of sherry and add a thinly sliced
lime. Place over the fire to boil for five minutes.
Just before serving stir into the soup three hard-
boiled eggs, finely chopped. Force meat balls
may be added.

4



SOUPS AND CHOWDERS



Parker House Tomato Soup

Put into a saucepan five pounds of tomatoes,
either fresh or canned, with one quart of water,
salt, pepper, cayenne, one and one-half table-
spoonfuls of sugar, and three ounces of butter,
rubbed into one heaping tablespoonful of flour.
Cook slowly one hour. Remove from the fire
and rub through a sieve. Place over the fire
again and add one and one-half tablespoonfuls
of rice flour which has been dissolved in a little
water. Let it come to a boil, when it is ready
to serve.



Celery Soup

Boil one small cupful of rice in three pints of
milk, or two pints of milk and one of cream,
until it is tender. Then rub it through a sieve
and add one quart of veal stock, salt, cayenne,
and three heads of celery (the white stalks only)
which have been previously grated. Boil until
the celery is tender.

5



JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES

Bisque of Prawns or Shrimps

Boil three dozen prawns twenty minutes in
salted water to cover them. Meanwhile in two
small tablespoonfuls of butter, fry an onion and
a carrot sliced, and a small piece of salt pork
chopped. Take the prawns out of the boiling
water and add to it the fried mixture with salt,
pepper, a bunch of sweet herbs and one-half the
prawns added again. Simmer one hour. Pound
the shells of the prawns in a mortar with a little
butter, to form a smooth paste. Stir this into
the soup and boil twenty minutes. Strain
through a sieve. Add one quart of milk and
one teaspoonful of cornstarch stirred into a
little of the cold milk. Let it boil up, and serve.
It should be as thick as rich cream.



Lobster Soup

Pick the meat from a five pound lobster and
pound it in a mortar, adding from time to time a
little milk or cream. When perfectly smooth,

6



SOUPS AND CHOWDERS



add two teaspoonfuls of salt, one tablespoonful
of chopped parsley (if liked) , cayenne and mace.
Take out enough to make a dozen small balls,
mix this with the yolk of an egg and fry it in
butter. Mix the rest of the pounded lobster
with two quarts of milk and rub through a
sieve. Put this in a saucepan and simmer ten
minutes. Add two ounces of butter and stir
until melted and smooth. Pour over the fried
balls in the tureen and serve very hot.

& &
Venison Soup

Cut six pounds of lean venison into medium
sized pieces and place in a soup kettle with two
gallons of cold water, to which add two dozen
cloves and four blades of mace. Boil slowly
three hours. Then add two pounds of venison,
cut into pieces about an inch square and one
dozen force meat balls. Boil for thirty min-
utes. Then season with salt, pepper, cayenne,
and half a glass of lime juice, letting the soup
cook ten minutes longer. It should be served

7



JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES

in hot bowls in each of which is poured a half
glass of port before serving. Crisp croutons
may be added.



Puree of Venison

Cut up the remains of venison that had been
roasted for a former dinner, put a few slices of
ham into a stew pan, then the venison, two whole
onions, a blade of mace, two quarts of stock,
and a small piece of a sprig of thyme, parsley,
and two cloves. Set it on the stove to simmer,
two hours or more. Strain it off, and pull all
the meat to pieces. Pound it with the lean ham
that was boiled with it, the crust of two French
rolls which has been soaked in consomme.
Rub the whole through a colander with a glass
of claret or port and enough consomme to bring
it to the consistency of cream. Put it back on
the fire in a double boiler. Stir a little butter
into it, and serve with bread fried in dice.

8



SOUPS AND CHOWDERS



Clear Soup Stock

To four pounds of beef add six quarts of cold
water and place over the fire. Just before it
boils, skim it carefully. Then add two cups of
cold water and skim again, repeating this for a
third skimming. Allow it to simmer slowly for
three hours. Then add the vegetables; eight
ounces each of cut up carrots, onions and turnips,
and three ounces of celery, with salt and pepper.
Simmer three hours longer. The stock should be
strained before using, and while cooking it
should not be allowed to boil.



Daniel Webster's Chowder

Fry with some slices of pork, four tablespoon-
fuls of sliced onions, to a light brown. Put them
in a deep iron pot with six pounds of cod sliced,
one quart of boiled mashed potatoes, one pound
and a half of broken sea biscuit, fifty oysters,
one teaspoonful of thyme, one teaspoonful of
summer savory, one-half a bottle of mushroom

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JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES

catsup, one bottle of port or claret, one-half a
nutmeg, one dozen cloves, a little mace and all-
spice, one half a lemon sliced, pepper and salt.
Cover with one inch of water and cook slowly
until done.

& &
Scott's Chowder

Cover the bottom of a deep pot with slices of
pork cut very thin. Add a layer of fish sliced
and seasoned with salt and pepper, a layer of
onions parboiled and quartered, a layer of toma-
toes sliced and seasoned, a layer of thickly sliced
potatoes and a layer of broken sea biscuit.
Repeat the layers until the pot is filled. Just
cover the fish with water and cook one hour very
slowly. Add one pint of claret, cook one-half
hour longer and serve.



10



SO UPS AND CHOWDERS



Marblehead Chowder

Cut half a pound of salt pork into dice and
place two-thirds of it in a deep saucepan; fry
a light brown. Remove it and in the fat fry
two large onions sliced. Cover the bottom of
the pot with slices of raw cod or bass
mixed with some of the fried pork and onions.
On this place another layer of sliced
fish mixed with a few pieces of raw pork,
and slices of raw onion, salt and pepper; over
this a layer of sliced raw potatoes. Repeat
these layers until the pot is about two-thirds
full, when the mixture should be covered with
warm water, or preferably a stock made of the
heads and tails of the fish. After the chowder
comes to a boil, let it cook for forty-five minutes.
Then add some broken sea biscuit, and boil
fifteen minutes longer. In another saucepan
place a quart of milk and heat it to the boiling
point. Then stir into it two ounces of flour
rubbed into two ounces of butter. When it
thickens a little, pour it over the chowder and
serve.

11



JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR, EPICURES

The recipe will take about four pounds of
fish, half a pound of pork, six onions, six po-
tatoes, four sea biscuits, two ounces each of but-
ter and flour and a quart of milk.



Clam Chowder I

Have one hundred clams still in the shell.
Boil them in a quart of water until the shells
open. Take the clams out of the kettle, saving
the water in which they were boiled. Remove
them from the shells, discarding all but the soft
part. Take six slices of salt pork and cut into
dice. Fry until crisp and a light brown. Re-
move from the saucepan and in the fat fry four
onions sliced. Then add the water strained
from the clams and the fried pork. To this add
six potatoes cut in small pieces and two green
peppers chopped or finely sliced. Boil the mix-
ture fifteen minutes before putting in the clams
and four sea biscuits, broken into pieces. Then
boil for fifteen minutes longer and add a quart
12



SOUPS AND CHOWDERS



of milk. Have half a cup of bread crumbs
rubbed into four ounces of butter. Stir this in
as the chowder heats after the milk has been
added. When it boils, it is ready to serve.
J* &

Clam Chowder II

In a saucepan fry two slices of salt pork and
when brown, add four potatoes and four onions
cut up. Fry ten minutes and add three pints
of water, salt and pepper. Boil for half an hour.
Then add one quart of clams from which the
tough portions have been removed. Also two
sea biscuits which have been soaked until they are
soft. Cook ten minutes. For this recipe,
canned clams may be used.
A* J*

Force Meat Balls for Chowder

Take the meat of a good sized crab, a tum-
blerful of shrimps and a clove of garlic. Chop
all very fine and make into small force meat
balls with a beaten egg. Fry them a light brown
in butter, and serve in any fish chowder or soup.

13



JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES
Memo



14



SOUPS AND CHOWDERS
Memo



15



JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES
Memo



16



SOUPS AND CHOWDERS
Memo



17



JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES
Memo



18



FISH




_ FISH _
Oysters a la Marechale

Stew very gently in four ounces of butter
some thinly sliced truffles and mushrooms.
After cooking ten minutes add salt, white pep-
per, cayenne and mace. Stir in four large
tablespoonfuls of flour and mix well together
while it thickens. Put in the liquor of the
oysters which has been scalded and skimmed.
Then add milk (boiling) enough to make it as
thick as cream. Take from the fire and stir in
the yolks of four eggs beaten well with the juice
of a lime and a tablespoonful of water.

Cover each oyster thickly with some of the
mixture and allow it to cool. Then roll twice
in beaten egg and bread crumbs. Fry to a
light brown in butter and serve very hot.



Toasted Angels

Sprinkle cayenne and a few drops of lime
juice over as many large oysters as are required,
then wrap each oyster in a thin strip of bacon

21



JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES

or fat salt pork. Fasten with a wooden tooth-
pick and broil until the bacon is crisp. Serve
very hot on squares of buttered toast.



Oyster Pates

Rub together one ounce of butter and one
teaspoonful of flour. Melt this in a saucepan
and add salt, mace and cayenne. Stir gently
a few minutes, until smooth. Then add slowly
four tablespoonfuls of cream. Strain two dozen
oysters and add the liquor very slowly, stirring
all the time. When it boils up, put in the
oysters, cook three minutes and fill the pat6
shells. Serve very hot.



Scalloped Clams

Wash clean one hundred ' clams. Use soft
part whole and the tough part chopped fine.
Put a layer on the bottom of a buttered baking

22



_ FISH _

dish. Season with salt, pepper, cayenne and a
little mace and sprinkle over plenty of stale
bread crumbs and a quantity of bits of butter.
Repeat the layers until the dish is full. Put
plenty of butter on top and pour in a cup of the
water from the clams. Bake in a moderate
oven one hour, and when half done pour in a
tumbler of sherry.



Shrimp or Oyster Curry

Melt four ounces of butter and fry in it four
young onions and a clove of garlic chopped.
Add the juice of two limes. Stir into this one
teaspoonful of corn starch, two tablespoonfuls
of curry powder and half a cup of cream with salt,
pepper and cayenne. Stir this rapidly over the
fire until very thick. Thin with milk until it is
the proper consistency, then add a large cup of
picked shrimps, and as many oysters. Cook
two minutes after it boils.



23



JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES

Shrimps a la Bordelaise

Place two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of
flour in a saucepan and brown over the fire.
Stir into this one cup of stock, and add two
tablespoonfuls of finely chopped raw ham, a
slice of onion, one tablespoonful of chopped
parsley. Simmer for ten or fifteen minutes.
Strain the same and add to it a cup of shrimps.
Simmer again for a few moments and add a
teaspoonful of tomato or mushroom catsup.
Season with salt and pepper, and serve in
timbale cases.



Shrimps with Tomato

Stew half a dozen large tomatoes with a table-
spoonful of anchovy sauce, a piece of butter,
salt, pepper and cayenne. Put this through a
sieve until it is very smooth. Fill a baking
dish with picked shrimps, pour the tomato
over them, sprinkle with bread crumbs and
bits of butter, and bake until brown.

24



_ _ FISH _

Saute of Shrimps

Melt a piece of butter in a stewpan with a
little flour, salt and cayenne. Just as it turns
dark, put in a glass of white wine, a pound of
picked shrimps, a little lemon juice, and if
liked, a bit of anchovy sauce. Take from the
fire and stir in the well-beaten yolks of two eggs.
Pour into cup-shaped pieces of fried bread, and
serve very hot.



Crab a la Creole

Fry in four ounces of butter, four young
onions, one clove of garlic and two green pep-
pers, all chopped fine. Cook until soft and add
one tomato cut up, salt, pepper and cayenne.
Stew until smooth and add one teaspoonful of
flour, a little cream or rich milk, and the meat
picked from two crabs. Boil a few moments
and serve with buttered toast.



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JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES

Sole a la Normandie

Take a large sole (one without a roe). Re-
move the back skin and with a sharp knife very
carefully cut out the side fins, lay it on the dish
in which it is to be served, one that may be
placed in the oven. Brush the fish with melted
butter. Insert in the flesh 'of the fish some
small slices of truffle. Sprinkle it with salt,
white pepper, a very little mace and dust it all
over with fine crumbs. Pour around it a
tumbler of good white wine. Place in a mod-
erate oven and cook until nearly done, twenty
minutes or longer, if the fish be large. Take it
out and put around the edge of the dish a row of
croutons, brushing them with the white of an
egg to make them adhere to the dish. Then
scatter over and around the fish, a small can of
mushrooms, sliced, oysters, mussels, picked
shrimps and some quenelles. Add a little more
melted butter and a few more crumbs, add more
white wine and put back in the oven for five
minutes.



26



FISH

Filet of Sole a la Bohemian

Cut a sole or flounder into four filets. Roll
each one up, stuffing with a mixture of sal
piquant sauce. Roll around each a thin slice
of pork and fasten with a skewer. Stand on end
in a baking pan and put a small piece of butter
and a slice of lemon on each and bake until
done.

Fry together for five minutes, chopped escha-
lots, parsley, chevril, herbs, butter, salt and
cayenne. Take from the fire and stir in a little
lime juice and anchovy sauce.

A* J*

Baked Sole

Skin the slack side of the fish and lay in a
baking pan. Brush with beaten egg, sprinkle
with bread crumbs and pour over them some
melted butter. Cover the fish with a layer of
thin slices of pork or bacon. Add one-half pint
of water and bake half an hour. To make the

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JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES

sauce, take the liquor from the baking pan, add
to it salt, pepper, cayenne, the juice of one lime,
a wine glass of sherry, a tablespoonful of mush-
room or walnut catsup, and a piece of butter
the size of an egg with a little flour rubbed into
it. Allow it to boil once and pour over the fish.



Flounders a la Magouze

Place several fish into a baking pan with a
glass of white wine, salt, pepper, and an ounce
of butter. While they are cooking break three
eggs into half a pint of cream, and beat until it
is light. When the fish is done remove them
from the pan and stir the eggs and cream into
the gravy. Simmer for two minutes, and pour
over the fish, serving at once.



28



_ FISH _

Salmon a la Melville

Put slices of salmon into a baking pan with a
little white wine and water. Sprinkle with salt
and bits of butter. Place in the oven and bake
for fifteen minutes.

For a sauce, blanch some very finely chopped
young onions. Put them in a saucepan with a
wine glass of white wine, salt, cayenne, a cup of
picked shrimps, a lemon cut in thin slices, and
a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Then
add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, rolled
in a very little flour. Remove from the fire and
stir in the yolks of two eggs. Pour the sauce
over the fish and serve.



Stewed Haddock

Lay pieces of fish in a pan with the skin side
up. Sprinkle with salt and cayenne, and cover
tightly, allowing the fish to stew in its juice for
twenty minutes. Then add a quarter of a

29



JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES

pound of butter rolled in flour, and a quarter
of a glass of wine. Stir the liquor and simmer
for a few moments, when it is ready to serve.
No water should be used.



Bacalas a la Viscaina

Soak half a salt codfish over night. Put in a
saucepan one-half cup of olive oil, and two large
onions cut in bits. When browned add two
large tomatoes cut up. Stew slowly fifteen
minutes, adding a little black pepper. Put in
the fish picked to pieces and cook slowly^half
an hour. Serve on a platter, with some fried
whole green peppers on top.



Baked Sardines

Remove the skins from large boned sardines
and heat in the oven on strips of toast. Make
a sauce as follows: Pour the oil from the sar-

30



_ FISH _

dines into a saucepan and heat it well. Then
stir in an ounce of flour, adding a small cup
of hot water. Season this with a teaspoonful
of Worcestershire sauce, salt and paprika.
Beat the yolk of an egg with a teaspoonful of
vinegar and one of mustard. Stir this into the
sauce after it is removed from the fire. Pour
over the sardines and serve.



Sardines with Cheese

Drain the sardines and lay them on strips of
toast or crisply fried bread. Cover thickly with
Parmesan cheese and bake in a hot oven until
light brown in color. Remove and sprinkle
with chopped parsley and pour over all plenty
of lemon juice. Serve very hot.



31



JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES

Scalloped Fish Roe

Boil three large roes in water with a very little
vinegar for ten minutes. Remove from the
fire and plunge into cold water, wipe the roe
dry and break into bits without crushing.
Have ready the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs.
Mash them into a cup of drawn butter with salt,
pepper, chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of an-
chovy paste, the juice of half a lemon and a cup
of bread crumbs. Mix very lightly with the
broken fish roe. Place in a baking dish, cover
with bread crumbs and bits of butter, and
brown in the oven.



Kedgeree

Boil two tablespoonfuls of rice and drain it as
dry as possible. Have ready a cupful of cooked
fish of any sort broken into pieces. Mix it
thoroughly with the rice and heat over the fire ;
season with salt and pepper. Beat an egg
lightly and stir into it. Serve at once.

32



FISH

Bouillabaise

The fish used for bouillabaise may be any kind
of firm white fish, and for the following recipe,
about two pounds are required. Heat in a soup
kettle four tablespoonfuls of olive oil and fry
in it two large onions sliced, and two cloves of
garlic. Add {he fish cut into bits and just
cover the mixture with warm water. Then add
salt, pepper, half of a bay leaf, two large to-
matoes, peeled and chopped, the juice of half a
lemon and one cup of white wine. Cook over a
brisk fire twelve minutes, or until the liquor is
reduced one-third. Add one tablespoonful
chopped parsley and a pinch of saffron. Cook
two minutes. Pour the bouillabaise over slices
of French bread.



33



JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES
Memo



34



FISH



Memo



35



JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES
Memo



36



ENTREES




ENTREES



Sweetbreads with Mushrooms

.

Lay half a dozen sweetbreads in cold water
for twelve hours, changing the water several
times. Then boil them five minutes, drop into
cold water, remove the skin and lard with fat
bacon. Put them in a saucepan with a pint of
stock, two small onions and one carrot chopped,
a teaspoonful of minced parsley, salt, pepper,
cayenne, and a little mace. Stew until tender.

Serve with a mushroom sauce, made as follows :
Take a small bottle of mushrooms or one dozen
fresh mushrooms sliced and boil them five min-
utes in water and lime juice. Drain and place
in a stew pan with two ounces of butter, one
ounce of flour and a pint of well seasoned stock
or gravy. Cook until the sauce is reduced one-
half. Pour over the hot sweetbreads.



39



JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES

Terrapin

Boil the terrapin for one hour, and clean care-
fully. Rub into a paste the yolks of six hard-
boiled eggs, half the white of one egg chopped,
one tablespoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of
flour, three whole cloves, salt, pepper, cayenne
and mace. Place the terrapin into a stewpan
with a glass of sherry or madeira and the pre-
pared paste. Cook slowly for twenty minutes.
Add three glasses of sherry and madeira and
allow it to boil once, when it is ready to serve.



Frogs a la Poulette

Joint the hind legs and backs of twelve frogs ;
put in a closely covered saucepan with some
truffles, a small can of mushrooms sliced, a glass
of white wine, salt, white pepper, cayenne, mace
and four ounces of butter. Stew gently fifteen
minutes, stirring once or twice. If then tender,
add one teaspoonful cornstarch rubbed into one
ounce of butter. Let it cook two minutes, take

40



ENTREES



from the fire and stir in the yolks of six eggs
beaten well with one-half cup of cream. Place
this mixture where it will keep hot without
cooking. Cut the crust from a loaf of bread,
scoop out the center, brush with butter and
brown in the oven. Pour the frogs legs and
sauce into the bread cup, garnish with mush-
rooms and truffles.

A* &
Calves' Head en Tortue

Simmer a calves' head for two hours. Tie the
brains in a cloth, put them in the saucepan with
the head and cook two hours longer. Then ex-
tract the bones and cut the meat in pieces, re-
turn it to the saucepan without the brains,
adding two ounces of butter, two dozen stoned
olives, one dozen cloves, salt, pepper, cayenne,
and a cup of white wine. Cook for one hour,
then add the brains cut in bits, the shaved peel
and piece of one lemon and three hard-boiled
eggs sliced. Cook thirty minutes. Thicken
the sauce with flour rubbed into butter and serve
with the calves' head.

41



JOE TILDE N'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES

Chops a la Reine

Trim twelve lamb chops very closely and fry
lightly in six ounces of butter. Remove them
and in the same butter place two onions, sliced,
four green peppers minced, one can of mush-
rooms minced, and two stalks of celery chopped;
salt, pepper, cayenne, and the juice of a lime.


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