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On the Coulterville Rosul tliroiiKli ^lert-etl (Jrove of Hi;;; Trees



ILLUSTRATED BOOKS BY JOHN H. WILLIAMS

"The Mountain That Was *God"'
"The Guardians of the Columbia"



"The Canoe and The Saddle"

BY THEODORE WINTHROP

to which are now first added his Western Letters

AND Journals. Edited with an Introduction

and Notes by John H. Williams.



'There is no death; love paid the debt;
Tho' moons may wane and men forget,
The mountain's heart beats on for aye;
JVJio truly loved us cannot die."



And so I wait, nor fear the tide
That comes so swiftly on to hide
My little light. The mountains glow;
I have their promise, and I know.

— Richardson : "The Promise of tlie Sierra."



YO SEMITE

and Its HIGH SIERRA



By JOHN H.WILLIAMS

Author of "THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS 'GOD"
"THE GUARDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA" etc.



WITH MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS

INCLUDING EIGHT COLOR PLATES FROM

PAINTINGS BY CHRIS JORGENSEN



TACOMA AND SAN FRANCISCO

JOHN H. WILLIAMS

1914



•To l^



f^




The "Washington" and "Lincoln," Giant Sequoias in
Mariposa Grove.



COPVRIQHT, 1914, 91 JOHN H. WILLIAMS



JAN -i^ 1915
©CI,A393365



«. V.-..-'' "



'-^•si*te,'';':. - ;.:«*Wl




On the Suiniiiit of CIouiLs Rest, lookinjz: .soutliea.st over I^ittle Voseniite and the Merced

Cnuon to Mt. Clark.



THE SIERRA CLUB

THIS VOLUME ABOUT A NOBLE REGION

WHICH IT HAS LABORED TO CONSERVE AND MAKE ACCESSIBLE

IS CORDIALLY DEDICATED



Have you gazed on naked grandeur where there's
nothing else to gaze on,
Set pieces and drop-curtain scenes galore,
Big mountains heaved to heaven, which the bHnding
sunsets blazon,
Black canons where the rapids rip and roar?
*****
Have you seen God in His splendors, heard the text
that Nature renders, —
You'll never hear it in the family pew, —
The simple things, the true things, the silent men
who do things ?
Then listen to the Wild — it's calling you.

— Robert W. Service.




starting; for the Ascent of Mt. Lyell.




North Ddiiie, Hojal Art-lit's and Waslilnston Coluuiu, Meeu fruiii
the Merced River. The concentric formation in tlie granite,
which i.s characteristic of tlie Yoseniite region, is nowhere
better sliown. Tlie imposing architectural aspect o£ this
group, as if it were tlie ruins of some vast, decaying me-
illeval cathedral, with crumbling arches and broken cam-
panile, makes it the most Interesting rock feature in the
Valley.




The Half Dome, seen from the Overlinnging Rork nt Glacier Point, more than liulf a mile

above tlie floor of Yosemite.



FOREWORD



The present addition to my series about the great mountains of the West will serve
a happy purpose if it does no more than to gain new readers for the splendid books on
Yosemite that have preceded it. One who follows in the footsteps of J. D. Whitney,
Clarence King, Galen Clark, John Muir, and Smeaton Chase must needs enter upon his
task with diffidence. Nevertheless, it is largely a new work that I have undertaken,
namely, to describe and exhibit, not merely the famous Yosemite Valley, but the entire
Yosemite National Park, so far as may be possible, by the aid of telling pictures. The
field is so vast, its mountains, canons, lakes, waterfalls, and forests are so important and
spectacular, that even the unprecedented number of illustrations given here can only
suggest its riches of wonder and beauty. In order to make room for the largest number
of views, I have confined my text to those matters which persons visiting Yosemite for
the first time may naturally wish to know, — an outline of the great physical features of
the Yosemite country and their causes, the story of its native inhabitants and their
worthy but pathetically hopeless fight to hold their alpine fastness, and the increasing
facilities for the enjoyment of its renowned valleys and equally inviting highlands. I
shall feel it no defect in this brief essay if among my readers some Oliver Twist may
perchance ask for more!

The choosing of more than two hundred illustrations from many thousands of photo-
graphs involved no little labor. Much of the district was, until lately, very inadequately
photographed. Yosemite Valley has long been the best illustrated scenic spot in America,
but the wonderful High Sierra back of it has been surprisingly neglected by the profes-
sional photographers. Fortunately for this book, however, the large membership of the
Sierra Club includes many expert amateurs, and the club's different expeditions into the
mountains have produced a multitude of photographs that are equal to the best pro-
fessional work. My first acknowledgment must therefore be to the photographers among
my fellow-members for the unanimity with which they have placed their negatives at my
disposal. Without such help, it would have been possible to show little more than the
beaten paths of Yosemite Valley and the Big Tree Groves. I a,m also indebted to the pas-
senger departments of the Southern Pacific, Santa Fe and Yosemite Valley Railways for
many fine photographs; to the professional photographers, Messrs. Fiske, Pillsbury, Tib-
bitts, Boysen and others, for their interest and cooperation, and to Mr. M. M. O'Shaugh-
nessy, City Engineer of San Francisco, for invaluable photographs of Hetch Hetchy.



lO



FOREWORD



Thanks are also due to the directors of the Bohemian Club of San Francisco for per-
mission to reproduce Mr. Chris Jcirgensen's spirited painting of Yosemite from Inspira-
tion Point. The book is much enriched by this picture and by the others painted by Mr.
Jorgensen especially for it.

Mr. William E. Colby, the Sierra Club's untiring secretary, has kindly read proofs,
and aided me greatly with his expert counsel. Prof. C. A. Kofoid and Prof. Willis Linn
Jepson, of the University of California, Rev. Joseph S. Swain, of Cambridge, Mass., Mr.
Russ Avery, of Los Angeles, Mr. Mark A. Daniels, of San Francisco, Superintendent of the
National Parks, Messrs. Herbert Bashford and Homer T. Miller, of the same city, Miss
Mary A. Byrne, of the San Francisco Public Library, and Mr. John B. Kaiser, of the
Tacoma Public Library, have made me their debtor by many courtesies. I must also
thank the Houghton-Mifflin Company, of Boston; the Century Company, of New York, and
the Blair-Murdock Company and Mr. A. M. Robertson, of San Francisco, for liberty to
quote from copyrighted works of Muir, Burt, Chase, Symmes, Sterling and Richardson.

This book is an acknowledgment of a long-standing debt to the Sierra. Years ago,
while a resident of California, I became a lover of her mountains. It has since been my
good fortune to study other great mountain districts, and to learn that each has its own
special inspiration; but on returning to the Yosemite upland after a decade of absence,
I have still found in its nobly sculptured heights and gentle valleys a peculiar and lasting
charm possessed by no other wild landscape, American or European, with which I am ac-
quainted,— a mingling of sublimity and tenderness that should make it the joy of all
Americans, and the best-guarded treasure of California.

"With frontier strength ye stand your ground;
With grand content ye circle round.
Tumultuous silence for all sound, . . .
Like some vast fleet.

Sailing through winter's cold and summer's heat;
Still holding on your high emprise, '

Until ye find a home amid the skies."

Tacoma, Nov. 15, 1914.




Jack Main Cafion and Wllmer I^ake, north of Hetch Hetcliy Valley.




L.iinc1i Time on the Tuolumne, at tlie Sierra Club's Camp near Soda Springs.



CONTENTS



I. THE YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 17

II. THE CANON OF YOSEMITE 61

III. ON THE CALIFORNIA SKY-LINE 93

IV. TUOLUMNE GRAND CANON AND HETCH HETCHY 11.^

V. THE "KING OF THE FOREST" 137

NOTES 143



ILLUSTRATIONS



The * indicates engravings from copyrighted photographs,
illustration.



See notice under the



FOUR-COLOR HALFTONES

From paintings by Chris Jorgensen.

The Caiion of Yosemite By courtesy of the Bohemian Club 4

Cathedral Rocks and Spires 19

Yosemite Falls, seen from the Merced Meadows 24

Cascades at the Head of Happy Isles 41

Half Dome in the Alpen-Glow 60

Vernal Fall 77

Mt. Lyell and its Glacier HI

In Mariposa Grove 130



ONE-COLOR HALFTONES.

Title

On the Coulterville Road

"Washington" and "Lincoln" Trees, Mariposa Grove .

On the Summit of Clouds Rest

Starting for the Ascent of Mt. Lyell

Royal Arches and the Merced River

Half Dome, from Overhanging Rock, Glacier Point .

Jack Main Canon

Lunch Time on the Tuolumne

The Gates of Yosemite

Regulation Peak and Rodgers Lake



Photographer Page

S. A. Gray 2

H. C. Tibbitts 6

Pillsbury Picture Co. 7

Pillsburv Picture Co. 7

H. C. Tibbitts S

H. C. Tibbitts 9

J. F. Kinman 10

Pillsbury Picture Co. 11

Pillsbury Picture Co. 16

J. F. Kinman 17



12 ILLUSTRATIONS

Title Photographer Page

Returning from Summit of Mt. Hoffman Dr. Edward Gray 17

Upper Yosemite Fall Arthur W. Wilding 18

Bridal Veil Fall Pillsbury Picture Co. 20

Sentinel Rock (2) Fiske and Pillsbury 21

A Glacier Landscape: Tuolumne Canon C. H. Hamilton 22

Another Glacier Landscape: Mt. Starr King, etc. . . . George R. King 2 2

El Capitan, from East Side George Fiske 2 3

First View of Lyell and its Neighbors Prof. Everett Shepardson 25

White Cascade, in Tuolumne River Walter LeRoy Huber 25

Indian Grist-Mill George R. King 2 6

Snow-Creek Falls Lena M. Reddington 26

Three Brothers H. C. Tibbitts 2 7

The Domes in a Winter Storm Pillsbury Picture Co. 28

Two North-side Lakes (2) J. F. Kinman 29

"Apron" and Glacial Tarn, in Little Yosemite Hazel E. Roberts 29

Cathedral Peak Walter LeRoy Huber 30

Dome at Head of Tenaya Lake Pillsbury Picture Co. 30

View East from Glacier Point J. T. Boysen 31

The "Governor Tod" Group Pillsbury Picture Co. 32

A Study in Clouds and Mountains Clinton C. Clarke 33

Buttercups Following Retreat of the Snow Clinton C. Clarke 33

Washburn Lake J. T. Boysen 34

North Dome, seen from Happy Isles H. C. Tibbitts 3 4

The Tuolumne Grand Canon Walter LeRoy Huber 35

The Terraced Walls of Hetch Hetchy Pillsbury Picture Co. 36

Giant Sequoias at Cabin in Mariposa Grove H. C. Tibbitts 37

View South from Kuna Crest Walter LeRoy Huber 38

White Firs on Eagle Peak Trail Prof. George J. Young 38

Mt. Dana, seen from Tioga Lake H. E. Bailey 39

Sugar Pine Loaded with Cones George R. King 40

Crossing Cold Canon Meadows Ruth I. Dyar 40

View down from Clouds Rest J. T. Boysen 42

Yosemite Squaw, with Papoose J. T. Boysen 43

Polemonium near Parker Pass Rose M. Higley 43

Mono Pass; with Bloody Canon and Mono Lake (2) . . Francis P. Farquhar 44

♦Happy Hours! (Deer in the Park) J. T. Boysen 44

Sardine Lake in Bloody Canon J. T. Boysen 45

Mt. Hoffman, from Snow Flat on the Tioga Road .... Philip S. Carlton 45

Yosemite Valley, seen from Yosemite Falls Trail . . . George Fiske 46

Distinguished Visitors to the Grizzly Giant Pillsbury Picture Co. 46

Western End of Yosemite, from Union Point George Fiske 47

Indian Acorn Cache H. C. Tibbitts 48

Tenaya Peak, with Tenaya Lake Pillsbury Picture Co. 48

In Tenaya Canon (2) Prof. J. N. Le Conte 49

Tenaya Lake J. T. Boysen 50

Gates of Tenaya Caiion in Winter George Fiske 51

South Merced Valley, from Lookout Point J. T. Boysen 52

A Yosemite Wood-Gatherer George Fiske 52

Mirror Lake and Mt. Watkins Pillsbury Picture Co. 53

Yosemite Indian Basket-Maker J. T. Boysen 54

"Umbrella Tree" George Fiske 54

Wild Flowers beneath the Royal Arches Pillsbury Picture Co. 55

The "Forest Queen" in the Mariposa Grove J. T. Boysen 56

*"Watch Me!" (Bear Cub) J. T. Boysen 56

*0n the Overhanging Rock in Winter Pillsbury Picture Co. 57

Blue Jay in Merced Canon Prof. Everett Shepardson 57

John Muir in Hetch Hetchy George R. King 58

Ready for the Trails H. C. Tibbitts 58

Tenaya Canon and Half Dome, from Glacier Point . . . George Fiske 59

Merced River and the Forest in Yosemite H. C. Tibbitts 61

Lost Arrow Trail H. C. Tibbitts 61

Chilnualna Falls, near Wawona J- T. Boysen 62

"New England Bridge," at Wawona George Fiske 62

Bridal Veil Meadow H. C. Tibbitts 63



ILLUSTRATIONS 1 3

Title Photographer Page

On Wawona Road George Fiske 63

The Merced River above El Portal Pillsbury Picture Co. 64

Cascade Falls J. T. Boysen 65

Bridal Veil Fall in Early Winter George Fiske 66

Winter Sports in Yosemite Philip S. Carlton 66

El Capitan and Three Brothers Pillsbury Picture Co. 67

A Glimpse of North Dome George Fiske 67

North Wall of Yosemite Valley Pillsbury Picture Co. 68

Panoramic View East from Washburn Point Pillsbury Picture Co. 68

Cathedral Rocks and Spires Pillsbury Picture Co. 69

The '-Back Road," South Side of Yosemite George Fiske 70

Yosemite Falls, seen from North-side Trail Pillsbury Picture Co. 71

Cliff at Head of Yosemite Falls U. S. Geological Survey 72

Leopard Lily Arthur W. Wilding 72

Evening Primroses and the Half Dome Pillsbury Picture Co. 73

Ice Cone at Upper Yosemite Fall (2) George Fiske 74

Overhanging Rock at Glacier Point George Fiske 75

Glacier Point Jutting into Yosemite Pacific Photo and Art Co. 76

*Illilouette Fall Pillsbury Picture Co. 78

The Merced at Happy Isles (2) Pillsbury Picture Co. 79

Le Conte Memorial George Fiske 80

The "Fallen Monarch" U. S. Forestry Bureau 80

Vernal Fall, from Clark's Point George Fiske 81

Vernal Fall in Winter George Fiske 82

At the Head of Nevada Fall W. J. Grow 82

The "Cataract of Diamonds" Pillsbury Picture Co. 83

Little Yosemite, from Liberty Cap Pillsbury Picture Co. 83

Nevada Fall (2) Pillsbury Picture Co. 84

Little Yosemite, with Clouds Rest George Fiske 85

Sugar-Loaf Dome, in Little Yosemite George Fiske 85

Climbing the Half Dome (2) R. O. Quesnal 86

Overhang at Summit of Half Dome R. O. Quesnal 87

Phlox Pillsbury Picture Co. 87

Half Dome at Sunrise Violet Ehrman 88

On the "Short Trail" to Glacier Point Pillsbury Picture Co. 88

Lake Merced J. T. Boysen 89

A Characteristic Dome Landscape Pacific Photo and Art Co. 90

Sentinel Dome George Fiske 90

Jeffrey Pine on Sentinel Dome .' Pillsbury Picture Co. 91

Aspen Forest at Lake Merced W. W. Lyman 92

Triple Divide Peak William Templeton Johnson 93

Climbing Mt. Clark F. R. v. Bichowsky 93

Tuolumne Pass (2) Clair S. Tappaan and Dr. Edward Gray 94

On Lake Washburn at Sunset W. W. Lyman 94

Vogelsang Pass and Vogelsang Peak Pillsbury Picture Co. 95

View South from Vogelsang Pass Pillsbury Picture Co. 95

Summer Snowfields in the Sierra (3) Charles W. Michael 96

Cathedral Peak, from Cathedral Pass J. Floyd Place 97

Looking up Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne Prof. Everett Shepardson 98

Pack Train at Vogelsang Pass Pillsbury Picture Co. 98

Kuna Crest, from Meadows near Mono Pass Rose M. Higley 99

Mountain Hemlocks Ruth I. Dyar 99

In Alpine California (2) Prof. E. Shepardson and F. P. Farquhar 100

Cutting Steps up Snow-Finger on Mt. Lyell Walter LeRoy Huber 100

Luncheon on Lyell Summit Pillsbury Picture Co. 101

Sierra Club Climbing Mt. Lyell Pillsbury Picture Co. 101

Rodgers, Electra and Davis Peaks J. Floyd Place 102

A Convenient Crack Clinton C. Clarke 102

Summit of Mt. Lyell Prof. Everett Shepardson 103

The "Bergschrund" of Lyell Glacier H. E. Bailey 104

The Uplands in July: Echo Peak from Unicorn .... Francis P. Farquhar 104

Mts. Dana and Gibbs (2) Ruth I. Dyar 105

The Craters of Mono County J. T. Boysen 105

Summit of Mt. Conness (2) F. R. v. Bichowsky 106



14 ILLUSTRATIONS

Title Photographer Page

Cathedral Peak Range, from Tuolumne Meadows . . . Philip S. Carlton 10 7

Tenaya Lake, from Old Tioga Road Pillsbury Picture Co. 108

Lambert Dome and Tuolumne Meadows Pillsbury Picture Co. 108

Matterhorn Canon, from its East Slope Ruth I. Dyar 109

The Hammond Fly-Catcher Rose M. Higley 109

View East, from Benson Pass Walter LeRoy Huber 110

Snow Plant J. T. Boysen 110

Mts. Ritter and Banner, from Shadow Lake Walter LeRoy Huber 112

Group of 2 50-foot Sequoias U. S. Forestry Bureau 113

Nearing the Summit of Mt. Lyell Pillsbury Picture Co. 113

Piute Mountain and Lakelet in Seavey Pass C. H. Hamilton 114

A Typical Glacial Cirque U. S. Geological Survey 114

Upper Hetch Hetchy, from Le Conte Point Walter LeRoy Huber 115

Coasting on the Granite Pillsbury Picture Co. 115

Lower End of Tuolumne Meadows, from Lambert Dome . Ruth I. Dyar 116

Cathedral Creek Falls Robert L. Lipman 116

Glen Aulin and Wildcat Point Philip S. Carlton 117

Spermophiles at Conness Creek Ruth I. Dyar 117

Tuolumne Falls Walter LeRoy Huber 118

Grand Canon of the Tuolumne River Walter LeRoy Huber 119

Largest of the Waterwheels Francis P. Farquhar 120

A Fair Knapsacker Lucile R. Grunewald 120

Waterwheel Falls, Tuolumne Canon Francis P. Farquhar 121

Benson Lake (2) Prof. Ralph R. Lawrence 122

Cookstoves on the March Ruth I. Dyar 122

Rodgers Lake Rose M. Higley 123

Heart of Tuolumne Canon; Entrance to Muir Gorge (2) . Francis P. Farquhar 12 4

*Lower End of Muir Gorge Francis M. Fultz 12 5

Little Hetch Hetchy John S. P. Dean 126

Weighing the Dunnage Elizabeth Underwood 126

River, Meadow and Forest, in Hetch Hetchy Pillsbury Picture Co. 12 7

Waterfalls and Cascades in Tuolumne Canon .... Pillsbury Picture Co. 127

Sunrise in Hetch Hetchy Rose M. Higley 12 8

Unnamed Lake in Eleanor Canon J. F. Kinman 12 8

The "Twins" Walter LeRoy Huber 129

Five-Finger Falls, in Hetch Hetchy Walter LeRoy Huber 131

Lake Eleanor J. F. Kinman 131

Central Hetch Hetchy Taber Photo Co. 132

Upper Hetch Hetchy H. B. Chaffee 133

Yellow Pines George Fiske 134

Overhanging Rock at Eleanor Canon Robert Schaezlein, Jr. 134

Lower Hetch Hetchy H. B. Chaffee 135

A Contemporary of Noah: the "Grizzly Giant" .... H. C. Tibbitts 136

Cavalrymen at Cabin in Mariposa Grove Pillsbury Picture Co. 137

A Fish Story from Laurel Lake J. F. Kinman 137

Wawona Meadows and South Merced Valley J. T. Boysen 138

Red Fir Meyer Lissner 139

"Alabama," in the Mariposa Grove J. T. Boysen 139

Maul Oak, on Wawona Road H. C. Tibbitts 140

Mariposa Lily Prof. Ralph R. Lawrence 140

The "King of the Forest" (2) Walter LeRoy Huber 141

Three Veterans E. N. Baxter 142

Del Portal Hotel, at El Portal J. T. Boysen 143

Camp Curry (2) Pacific Photo and Art Co. 144

Watching the Sunrise at Mirror Lake Pillsbury Picture Co. 145

MAPS

From Yosemite Valley to Wawona and Mariposa Grove, Drawn by Chris Jihgensen 14 6
Travel-Guide Map, Yosemite National Park. U. S. Geological Survey, Inside Back Cover

Yosemite Valley. Drawn by Chris Jiirgensen Inside Back Cover




Regulatiou Peak (el. 10,500 ft.), and Rotifers Lake, tlie best known of many beautiful
mountain lakes in tlie uortlieru part of the Park.



YOSEMITE AND ITS HIGH SIERRA



I.
THE YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

God of the open air,

To Thee I make my prayer. . .
By the breadth of the blue that shines in silence o'er me,
By the length of the mountain lines that stretch before me,
By the height of the cloud that sails, with rest in motion,
Over the plains and the vales to the measureless ocean
(Oh, how the sight of the things that are great enlarges the eyes!),
Lead me out of the narrow life to the peace of the hills and the skies.

—Henry J 'an Dyke.

THE Yosemlte Country invites all lovers of the thronging mountains.
It offers the enjoyment of a landscape famous for its elements of
surprise and wonder. It promises the lasting interest of upland
grandeur, softened by the beauty of lake and forest, flowers and falling
waters. A land of superlatives, it may truthfully boast the most splendid
high-walled valleys, the
loftiest cataracts, the oldest,
stateliest, and most note-
worthy trees, in the world.
It multiplies the delights
of mountaineering with the
most equable of sunny

mountain climates. Finally, . ' ' f
— and this is its loudest call
to thousands of true nature-
lovers, it presents a legible RetumluK from tbe summit of Mt. Hofltman.




Here the glacier ground the

stone.
Here spake God and it was

done :
Bnttress. pinnacle and wall.
River, forest, waterfall.
And God's right hand over

all.
Hear the mountain torrents

call,
Swung colossal from the

steep ;
See them, wind-tossed, wave

and sweep ;
Hear them sound like harp-
er's hands
On the quivering granite

strands. —
Now with thunderous thud

and moan,
Xow with giant undertone ;
While the pine trees whis-
per low.
And the sunset's shadows

slow
Up the vast gnarled ridges

go
To the roseate far snow.
— Rev. Joseph Cook:

"Yosemite."




"Soon, <iuitting the narrow, cllittereil Milili
nencomer in fuc-c to faoe with tlie ordered iieaee
Valley. Here, fully Hpread before him, ix tliiit e
with NtuiiendooN natural phenomena wliieli null
Barth'x great iiletureN. He Heen the eanonV lev<
Blaeial lake that liax Riven i.laee l» wide, Krai



THE GATES OF YOSEMITE.



und glory of the Knel
>nibinatiou of N.vlvau
es VoNeniite nniime i



iiled
arm



""ulaln llo«erH; l.,re»«s „f „,„„, greens an.l lawu.l.r>: the l.i».lual Ion

veil!", .""""" "'■'■'■'■'" """• «'<'"«.lnK hiKl. nl.ove Ihlx world ol gentle

•lii'i'T "" '""""'"" "''"' '"•■'• of i:i (aiiltnn. while I'oIi.mio drop" from

"iiig ng valley- NUperl.l, Nenlptured. and «o l>eantlful thai he ma>

"<er7,".ll"'."!!./.'''",, "' "<■'"■"' ^-'-e hn., glwn .» an, ol her lamon.-




■*1



JO



YOSEMITE AND ITS HIGH SIERRA




Upper ^'oNeniite Fall, seen from VoNeinlte Point Trail.
Ill Its drop of 1,480 feet, the Ntreuin, even at flood,
iiefoines ii eloiiil of «pray, ^vlileli the ^vlnd cateheN
»N on a eiiNlilon, and N^vayN from Nitle to Hide.



and absorbing record of the
making of great scenery.

It is a commonplace of
foreign visitors of the boule-
vard type, and of some Ameri-
cans who know the towns and
spas of Europe better than the
glory of their own land, that
the mountain scenery of West-
ern America is a scenery of
mere savage bigness, rather
than of predominant beauty.
This easy complaint may be
charged in good part to our
modern demand for luxury,
and will be forgotten with the
multiplication of automobile
roads and expensive hotels. A
fashionable inn on its summit
has made many a third-rate
hill in Europe the goal of
spell-bound tourists, including
droves of our globe-trotting
fellow-countrymen. Neverthe-
less, the trite criticism has in it
a half-truth. It is true of the
Rocky Mountain and Sierra
systems to the same extent that
it is true of the Swiss plateaus
supporting the great snow-
peaks, or the Tyrolese up-
lands, or the cirque country
of the Pyrenees. The beauty
of such scenes is not to be
measured on the scale of
country estates and well-
trimmed pastoral landscape.

High mountain lands but
lately abandoned by ice-sheet
and glacier wear similar as-
pects the world over. They
are the seats of sublimity
rather than of the picturesque.
Their fascination lies not so
much in softness of detail as




lirliliil Veil Full, the Iniliun Pohono. DropiiinK ((20 feet, with :!00 feet of cuseaileH below it, thi!« fall
In noteworthy In ItM setting, and perhupH the nioNt graceful in form of all the YoMeniite eatu-
ractd. Note the "comets" — arrow-like maN.seN of water Mhooting out from the fall.



THE YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

in breadth of view, in strength of line and majesty of form. They
with a story of their master sculptor, the Sun, wielding vast tool
and snow and rush-
ing torrent, to block
out peak and range,
to lay broad glacial
valleys deep with
soil, to plant the
highland lakes, and
to smooth the wide
rock benches, which,
even yet unweath-
ered, refuse welcome
to forest or farm.



21

conjure

s of ice




of el
ness



ementai
of their



Sentinel Koek. seen from
tlie ea.st anil -Nvest — tlie
great, glaeier-earved elHT
risins 3.08<> feet on the
Noutli side of the valley,
opposite Three Brothers.
The perpenilieular front
of the Sentinel, sheer for
half its height. sIwmvs
ho^v the eleavage has fol-
lowed vertical j«>intlng lu
the granite.

In such alpine re-
gions, whether of Eu-
rope or America, the
•eal out-door man needs
no handbook of science
to interpret their report
forces, busy until comparatively recent time. Nor does the wild-
scenes, or the slight effort needed to attain them, weigh against



22



YOSEMITE AND ITS HIGH SIERRA



the inspiration which
he prizes more than
comfort. He is not


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