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A Satchel guide for the vacation tourist in Europe online

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ing twice as much as was absolutely necessary. Thejr were pru-
dent and frugal, but did not feel obliged to keep -their expenses
down to the lowest possible figure. As a rule they rode in third-
class cars, but sometimes had to take first or second on an ex-
press train. K they had travelled less extensively on the Con-
tinent, the whole cost would have been somewhat less ; but as it
was (except for one of the party) their first visit to Europe, they
wished to get a general idea of many countries, hoping to have
the opportunity of studying them more at leisure in future visits.
"Shopping** in Europe. — A word or two on this subject
may be of service to some of our readers. We have seen arti-
cles in magazines and newspapers on the extortions and im-
positions of Parisian and other shopkeepers abroad, that are
liable to mislead the tourist. The statements made are true
enough, and we have personally known of similar instances, but
they are not the whole truth. At many of the most fashiona-
ble shops in London, Paris, and other great cities (especially
those to which couriers and commissionaires take the traveller)
one pays as much for a good article as he would pay in New
York or Boston, if not more. The prices are not ** fixed,*' but
are put as high as the dealer expects — or hopes at least — the
purchaser will pay ; and in some cases advantage is taken of his
ignorance to palm off inferior or unsaleable articles as the best
and newest. \i the place is an old and well established one, the
goods are usually what they are represented to be, though the
prices are high. But there are hundreds of shops, including many
of the largest, and of the best local reputation, in which there is
but one price, plainly marked in figures, for native or stranger ;
and if the quality or condition of the goods does not prove to be
as the dealer has warranted, the matter is promptly set right*
As a rule, the chances of honorable dealing will average consid-
erably better abroad than at home.

IRELAND.

If you take either of the Glasgow lines, touching at London-
derry, the Irish tour may be arranged as follows : Go fi-om Lon-
donderry [Hotels: jfury^s^ Imperial^ Commercial) to Portrush
(2 hours by rail ; yj. 6/., y. 6d., 31. &/.) and to the Gianfs Cause'
way (p. 8) ; thence via Belfast to Dublin ; thence to Ktllamey

• This is the case, to give a single example, at what we believe to be the
iai:gest retail establishment in Paris— that known as the " Au Bon March^,"
135 Rue du Bac — and no mazasin de nouveautis in the French capital is more
pc^mlar with Americans who know where to q>end their money to good advair
U«8.



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APPENDIX, 303

und back, with excursion en route to Cork and Blarney, Excursion
tickets to Killarnej are sold in Dublin.

At Queenstown^ il you let a porter take your luggage from the
landing-place to the Cork steamer (a few minute? walk), have
it understood in advance what you are to pay, or the charge is
pretty certain to be exorbitant.

At Cork you may be able to get a car to Blarney cheaper by
making your own bargain with the driver in the street than \yj
engaging it at the hotel.*

At Ktllarney, the view from the ruins of Aghadoe (see p. 4) is
the best to be had in the immediate vicinity, especially towards
sunset. It is less than a mile across the fields from the Royal
Victoria Hotel, which is on the bank of the Lake, 2 miles from the
railway station (omnibus from the hotel meets all trains) and per-
haps tne pleasantest stopping-place for the tourist ; though the
Railway and Lake hotels are also to be commended. The dis-
tances, as given on pages 3-5, are from the town, or railway
station. From the Royal Victoria it is 2 miles less to the Gap oi
Dunloe, and 2 miles more to Muckross and the Tore Cascade.

At Dublin the Gresham Hotel will be found somewhat cheaper
than the Shelbourne^ though the latter appears to be the favorite
house with Americans. Several ** commercial " or second-class
hotels will usually be found advertised in Bradshaw's " Railway
Guide." If the tourist does not wish to take the early train to
Kingston (p. 8) for the Holyhead boat, he can wait for a steamer
leaving Dublin for Holyhead at 9 A. M. As the time of sailing
may b« changed, it will oe well to inquire about it at the hotel.
There are also daily steamers from Dublin to Liverpool, making
the passage in 10 or 12 hours.

WALES.

At Bangor (pronounced Bang-or, by the by, not Ban-gor, as hi
the case of our " down East " city) the George Hotel is on the
shore of the Menai Strait, not far from the Suspension Bridge and
in frill view of both bridges. The Penrhyn Arms is delightfully
situated on the other side of the town. There are omnibuses to
both from the railway ; and it is hard to choose between them.

Instead of returning by rail from Carnarvon to Bangor (p. 10),
the following route to Conway may be taken : by rail, 10 miles,
to Llanberis, where there are several good hotels (the Royal
Victoria, the Dolbadarn, the pleasant Padam Villa, etc), and
irhere a day might be agreeably spent, including a climb up

• This hint will apply to many other places than Cork. On the other hand,
fou may sometimes (especially at the cheaper hotels) find it more for your inter-
Mt to make the bargain with **mine host." A little inquiry will enable you to
i!€ide which is the better coune



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304 APPENDIX.

Snowdon,* if you like; thence, through the wild Pass of Llan-
Wis, 10 miles, to Capel Curig {/^oya/ Hoiel)\ thence, by coach
ar on foot, 6 miles, to Bettws-y-Coed (Hotels: Royal Oak,
Waterloo), From there it is 1 6 miles by rail to Conway ; but if
time will permit, instead of going through by rail, take the train
to Llanrwst (4} miles), and walk from there to Trefriw (2 J miles),
whence a smsiU steamer runs on the CoLway river to Conway ( 10
tiiles). The excursion, though a short one, takes you through
some of the wildest and some of the most beautiful scenery in
Wales.

Should you visit GlotuesUr (p. 56) or Hereford (p. 80) make a
itop, if possible, at Ross (Hotels: Royal, G^^<;r^<?, etc), which is on
the railway between the two places, 18 miles from G., 12 from H.
It is in the midst of the loveliest scenery of the Wye, and was the
home of Pope's " Man of Ross," whose tomb is in the parish
church. A delightful excursion may be made by coach (or oq
'bot) down the valley of the Wye to Monmouth (Hotels: Beau^
fort Arms, Angela etc.) 10 miles from Ross ; and thence to Chep-
stow (Hotels: Beaufort Arms, George) near the mouth of the
river, about 12 miles further. The ruins of Ttntern Abbe^, one
sight of which is ampie recompense for the cost of the entu-e ex-
cursion, are passed en route, 4 miles before reaching Chepstow.

SCOTLAND.

The tourist by the Glasgow lines, if he takes the run through
Ireland, will probably cross from Dublin to Holyhead (p. 9),
whence he can follow the route already laid down. If he proceeds
directly to Glasgow, there are several ways in which he can
arrange his journey from that starting-point. If he has taken a
return ticket for the ocean trip (the most economical course), he
had better proceed as follows : Go from Glasgow 2s izx^& Melrose,
by the routes described on pages 21-34. From Melrose take the
train for Carlisle (p. 18), and thence through the Lake District to
Liverpool or Chester, reversing the trip described on pages i i-i8w
The excursion in North Wales (pp. 9-1 1) may next be taken,
returning to Chester; thence to Coventry (^va. Rugby, if preferred),
and to London by the route described on pages 50-57. From
London the routes we have given may be followed until the
. etum from the Continent, when you can go from London to
Cambridge, and thence to Newcastle, taking in reverse order the
trip described on pages 35-49. From Newcastle go by railway
to Carlisle, and thence to Glasgow, as described on pages 1 9-21.

A glance at the map will show that, if you prefer, you can
follow the line of travel given in the book from Glasgow to

* It is 5 miles from Llanberis to the summit of the monntain (3,571 fiwt).
Guide (not needed in good weather) and pony cost 10*. The ascent may \m
Oiade in 3 hours, the descent in a hours. Ponies can go nearly to the ftummit.



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APPENDIX, 305

London (pp. 23-57) ; thence to the Continent and back ; then
(from Newhcpvens or whatever port you arrive at) directly to
Chester; and thence to Glasgow^ via the Lake District (pp. 16-21)^
This is the simpler arrangement, and is to be preferred if it doe^
not bring the visit to the Lakes too late in the season.

Should the traveller take a Liverpool steamer on the homeward
trip, the routes given may be readily combined, with the aid ol
the map, in varibus ways to suit his convenience.

The price of through tickets for the delightful excursion from
Glasgow by the Lakes and the Trosachs (pp. 23-27) to Edinburgh
is 2 1 J. ; or i&r. 6^. with second class for the railway part of the
route.^ We advise the tourist by all means to take this route,
and, if possible, the excursion through the Caledonian Cana4
(p. 29), noting what we have said (p. 31) with regard to the best
way of combining the two.

Edinburgh. — There are many first-class hotels here besides
Ihose mentioned on page 31. Ihe Palace y Balmoral^ Bedford^
Clarendon, Queen's^ Windsor, and Kennedys are all on Princes
Street The Douglas (St. Andrew's Square) and the Waterlod
(Waterloo Place) are other first-class houses. The Cockburn,
not far from the railway station, is an excellent house.

Melrose. — The George inn, celebrated by Scott in the intro-
duction to " The Monastery," is to be commended as the best of
the hotels here. The fares from Melrose to Newcastle-on-Jym
are i8j. lod., 13J. 7^., 7^. 2>d. ; or through to York, 32J. \od., 24s,
yd., 14s. Sd.

We may remark here that Hunnewell's " Lands of Scott " wi!I
be a useful and agreeable companion in this neighborhood, and
wherever else the scenes of Scott's poems and novels are laid —
in England, Wales, Belgium, the valley of the Rhine, Switzer-
land, or France. If you cannot take the book with you, it should
by all means form a part of the preparatory reading for the tour.

ENGLAND.

Stratford-on-Avon. — A letter from Mr. J. O. PhilHpp
(better known in this country as J. O. Halliwell) gives us the
following information concerning New Place (p. 54) . —

" The so-called Theatre (an ugly modem building used chiefly
for meetings of the County Court) was purchased by tne last
spring [1872]. It was pulled down, and the site thrown into

Shakespeare's Gardens last summer We are forming

a second Shakespearian Museum at New Place, that in Henley
Street not being large enough to hold continual accessions. At
New Place I have preserved the few remains of Shakespeare's
i>riginal residence of course untouched, and have started this
second museum, keeping at the same time the gardens in decent
ordex The place is at present but little known, and



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306 APPENDIX.

Ihe American tourist too frequently misses this, one of the mo^
interesting spots at Stratford."

London. — Books for the Tourist, — The metropolis and its
neighborhood have been well written up within the last year or
two. Mr. Hare*s ** Walks in London " (2 vols., illustrated) is as
good in its way as his " Walks in Rome." from which we have
quoted so extensively above. Murray's new " Hand-book of the
Environs of London" (2 vols.) is very full and complete. A
cheaper book (costing only zs.) is " Round about London," pub-
lished by Stanford, and giving "historical, archaeological, archi-
tectural, and picturesque notes, suitable for the tourist, within a
circle of twelve miles," with hints for short walking excursions
and visits to St Albans, Windsor, and other places of interest
near the city. It is written by a Fellow of the Society of Anti-
quaries, ana is accurate and trustworthy.

For one who wishes to extend his "tramps" further from
London, we can cordially conmiend " Field Paths and Green
Lanes," by Louis J. Jennmgs (republished in 'this country), de-
voted to ** country walks, chiefly in Surrey and Sussex." Though
not in 'Ordinary guide-book form, it gives the pedestrian the mi-
nute information he needs for following the author in his ram-
bles, which cover some of the most charming portions of rural
England.

Bradshaw's. — Mr. W. J. Adams, 59 Fleet Street, is the pub-
lisher of Bradshaw's British and Continental " Railway Guides,"
which we have elsewhere commended as indispensable to the
traveller, and also of Bradshaw's " Illustrated Handbooks " for
France, Belgium and the Rhine, Switzerland, and other countries,
" Continental Phrase Books," etc Here may be found all the
other popular guide-books (the " Satchel Guiae " not excepted),
and almost everything else that the tourist can need.

Cheap Maps for Tourists. — A neat Atlas containing fourteen
good maps of European countries, with railway and other routes,
may be bought for sixpence at Gaze & Son's, 142 Strand.

Eminent Preachers. — As the tourist is likely to spend one or
two Sundays in London, we give the following list of eminent
preachers m that city, with the situation of their churches ot
chapels : —

Rev. H. Allon (Congregational), Union Chapel, Islington.

Rev. W. Braden, Weigh House Chapel.

Rev. Baldwin Brown, Congregational Church, Brixton.

Rev. J. P. Chown (Baptist), Bloomsbury ChapeL

Rev. J. Cumming, D. D. (Church of Scotland), Crown Court,
Russell Street, Covent Garden.

Rev. T. P. Dale, M. A., St Vedast, Foster Lane.

Rev. J. T. Davidson (English Presbyterian), Colebrooke Row
Chapel, Islington.

Rev. J. O. Dykes (English Presbyterian), Regent's Square
Church, Gray's Inn Road.



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APPENDIX. 307

Rev. J. Going, M. A., Vicar of St. Paul's, Lorrimore Square.

Rev. Newman Hall, Christ Church,* Westminster Road.

Rev. J. C. Harrison (Congregational), Park Chapel, Grove
Street, Camden Town.

Rev. T. Helmore, M. A., St. Mark's College, Chelsea.

Rev. D. Landels, M. A. (Baptist), Regent's Park.

Rev. H. P. Liddon, D. D., St Paul's Cathedral.

Rev. A. McAuslane, Congregational Chapel, Finsbury.

Rev. A. H. Mackonochie, M. A., St. Alban's, Holbom.

Kev. R. Maguire, M. A., St. James', Clerkenwell.

Rev. Samuel Martin, Westminster Congregational ChapeL

Rev. S. Minton, M. A., Eaton Chapel, Pimlico.

Rev. Daniel Moore, M. A., St. Margaret's, Lothbury.

Rev. G. H. Morse, M. A., St Paul's, Lorrimore Square.

Rev. Joseph Parker, D. D., City Temple, Holbom Viaduct

Rev. S. M. Punshon, D. D., Wesleyan Chapel, Kensington.

Rev. A. Raleigh, D. D. (Congregational), Kensington Chapel.

Rev. W. Rogers, M. A., St. Botolph's, Bishopsgate.

Rev. T. J. Rowsell, M. A., St. Stephen's, Westboume Park.

Rev. C. H. Spurgeon, Metropolitan Tabernacle, Newington
Butts.

Rev. A. P. Stanley, M. A., Dean of Westminster, at the Abbey.

Rev. A. H. Stanton, M. A., St. Alban's, Holbom.

Rev. F. Tucker, B. A. (Baptist), Camden Road Chapel.

Rev. H. Varley, Tabernacle, Notting Hill.

Rev. C. J. Vauehan, D. D., Master of the Temple, at the Tem-
ple Church.

The Temple Gardens, — In these interesting gardens (p. 64)
may be seen a curious old sycamore tree, under which tradition
Bays that Johnson and Goldsmith used often to sit together. It
also marks the site of the old Thames wall, on which it was
growing in the reign of James II. There is no ** label " on the
tree, as there ought to be, but it is readily found, as it has an iron
fence round it, and is partly supported and held together by iror.
bars. It is the only very old tree in the enclosure.

Battersea Park, — The botanist and the lover of landscape
gardening will be specially interested in a visit to the Sub-tropical
Garden (p. 66) in this Park. The rock- work is the most pictur-
esque we have seen, and the general arrangement of the garden
is unique and admirable. The place has been immensely im-
proved within a year or two, and is not so well known to tourists
as it ought to be.

Private Gardens in and about London, — Under this head we
may mention a few of the famous gardens easiest of access to

• The tower of this church is known as the ** Lincoln Tower,** having been
erected by English and American contributions as a memorial of President
Lincoln. It is about 300 feet high, and is one of the most beautiful Gothic
tructures in London.



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308 APPENDIX.

strangers. Sion HousCy the seat of the Duke of Northumberland
near Twickenham (p. 71), is celebrated for its noble trees. Gun-
nersbury Park (Baron Rothschild's), near Kew Bridge, is noted
for its fine fruit, especially pine-apples and grapes. The new
vineries are among the best in England. The peach wall ia
covered with a glass case, under which heavy crops are annually
produced. In the conservatory are a pair of tree ferns, 23 feet
high, probably the largest in the country. Lovers of orchids
should visit Mr. Day's establishment at Tottenham, and Mr.
Rucker*s at Wandsworth, both places celebrated for collections
of these plants. Mr. Wilkins, of Leyton, and Mr. Bockett, The
Firs, Muswell Hill, have also very fine collections of orchids and
exhibition plants. Mr. Micholls's collection of stove plants at
Southgate is perhaps the most remarkable, as regards size, in the
country, and must on no account be overlooked. The pitcher-
plants which it contains are marvels of skilful cultivation. The
noble collection of trees at the Bishop of London's Palace,
Fulham, must be seen, on account of their size, age, and variety ;
and the roses and conifers in Mr. Bohn's garden at Twickenham
are also well worth inspection.

Market Gardens. — The best cultivated market gardens round
London are those known as the " Fulham Fields." From Chelsea
to Kew Bridge on the north bank of the Thames, and including
Fulham, Hammersmith, Turnham Green, and Chiswick — in-
deed, almost all the land between the river and the road extend-
ing from Hammersmith to Kew is occupied by garden crops. On
the other side of the same road, the garden lands extend from
Hammersmith to Acton, and from thence between Gunnersbury
and Brentford, through a large district of Isleworth, to Richmond,
Twickenham, and Hounslow. On the south side of the Thames,
extending from Deptford to Woolwich, are many market-gardens.
From Putney and through Barnes to Mortlake are large areas o.
market -garden ground ; and the whole tract between Mortlake,
Richmond. Kew Gardens, and the Thames is thus occupied.

Excursions by Coach. — Tourists who wish to try an old- fash-
ioned English stage-coach ride will find lines of coaches starting
from Hatchett's, White Horse Cellar, Piccadilly, for Brighton^
St. Albans, Dorking, Guildford, and other places. The routes
aro all very pleasant ones, and it is hard to choose among them.
A "box seat" is to be preferred, and is well worth the extra
charge of half a crown or so. These coaches make their ten
miles an hour, and always run *' on time." Some of the lines
are owned by gentlemen, who take this means of indulging their
last'^ for driving.

Windsor. — Tickets for the Castle may also be obtained here
at a bookstore (not far from the gate), to which anybody in
Whidsor will direct the traveller. The guides in the neighbor*
jiood aie very importunate, but one can get along well enough
Vithout them, especially if he has a local guide-book.



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APPENDIX. 309

To Paris via the Channel Islands. — The tourist who
wishes to vary from the ordinary lines of travel between London
and Paris may take the route by way of the Channel Islands
A Royal Mail steamer leaves Southampton for Guernsey and
Jersey three times a week (Monday, Wednesday, and Friday),
connecting with express trains from Waterloo station, London.
Steamers leave Jersey for St. Malo every Monday and Thurs-
day, and for Granville every Thursday and Saturday. For pos-
sible changes in times of sailing, and for other particulars, see
Bradshaw's "Continental Railway Guide." From St. Malo and
Granville there are direct trains to Paris. For a good account
of the Channel Islands, see Col. Warinc's " A Farmer's Vaca-
tion;" and for Brittany and Normandy, if you hawe time to
linger in those picturesque districts, Mrs. Macquoid's " Through
Bnttany " and ** Through Normandy."

GERMANY.

Ratisbon. — The Golden Cross inn is one of the oldest in
Germany, the tower and the lower part of the house being per-
haps of the nth century. The Emperor Charles V. lodged here
in 1546, and the fair hostess, Barbara Blumberg, next year gave
birth to Don John of Austria (in room No. 15, it is said). The
Kronprinz and Niirnberger (near station) are good second-class
inns.

Augsburg. — The Drei Mohren has been an inn since 1364,
if no longer. Charles VI. resided in it for a year at the time of
the Diet of Augsburg, 1530. The ancient structure was taken
down in 1877, and an elegant modern hotel built upon the site.
The new house is highly commended by travellers.

The " Confession of Augsburg " was read in the Resident^ at
3 P. M. June 25, 1530, in the large room at the corner of the
quadrangle, near the tower.

Dresden. — For possible changes in the following, see the
Dresdeiter AnzeigeVy or inquire at the hotel : —

The Collection of Atiliquities^ in the Japanese Palace, is open
daily (except Sundays and holidays) from 10 to 2 o'clock. Ad-
mission, 50 ff.

The Royal Library^ in the same building, is open on Mon.,
Tues., Thurs., and Fri., 9-1 ; Wed. and Sat. 9-11 and 2-4 (free).

The Natural History Museum.^ in the Z winger, is open on
Mon., Wed., Thurs., and Sat. 8-2 (50//) ; Tues. and Fri., 9-11
(free).

The Mineralogicil Musntmy same building, Mon., Tues.,
Thurs., Fri., 9-1 1 : Wed., 2-4 (free).

The Cabinet of Engraving^y same building, is open on Tues.,
thurs., and Sat., 10-2 (50 //.) ; Wed. and Frid., 10-2 (free).



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3IO APPENDIX.

The Picture Gallery is open daily (except Mon.), 10-4 ; Siind
and holidays, 11-2 (ftee, except on Wed. and Sat, 50^).

The Green Vault £ open on Mon , Wed., Thurs., and Sat,
9-1 (i HI.); -on Tues. and Fri., admission for 1-6 persons, 9 m.

SWITZERLAND.

Interlachen. — As we have remarked, this is " a town of ho-
tds," of which we have mentioned only a few. On the Hoheweg,
or main street, there are the Ritschard^ Schweizerhof, Belvedere,
Beaurrvage^ and several others ; near Lake Brienz, the Hotel du
Lac ; on the road to Matten, the Reber, Ober^ etc. ; and on a
spur of the Kieine Rugen, commanding a fine view, the Jt*ng-
fraublick. Towards Lake Thun are the HoUl du Ponty Unter-
seen^ Beau-Site, etc.

Geneva. — Here also are many hotels besides those men*
tioned on p. 147 : on the left bank of the Rhone, the £cu de
GenhfCy Couronne, du Lac, de Paris, etc ; on the right bank, the
new National, des Bergues, de Russie, de la Paixy Suisse, etc
There are also m^xvy pensions, where board can be had at 85^.-
300 /r. a month.

The Continental Times is the cheapest and one of the best of
the Continental journals published in the interest of the travel-
ing public. It is issued weekly at 10 fr. a year (postpaid to all
parts of the world), or i /r. a month for shorter periods. Be-
sides its abstracts of American and foreign news, it gives lists of
tourist arrivals in Geneva, Rome, Florence, Paris, etc Americans
are always welcome at the oflfice of the paper, No. i Place Bel- Air.

Pleasant excursions from Geneva are to Mornex, a favorite
summer resort, 7 miles from the city (omnibus, 1.30/r.) ; and to
MoNNETiER, \\ miles further (omnious, 2^)-.), whence the ascent
of the Petit-Salive (about 3,000 feet) may be made in half an
hour, or that of the Grand-Salhfe (4*300 f^et) in an hour and a
half. The view from the former is beautiful, that from the latter
far more so.

FRANCE.

Paris. — " An American Family in Paris," though written for
young people, is one of the best books about the dty that we
know of, either for preliminary reading, or as a companion in
one's rambles through the French capital.^ The history of all the
famous buildings is well told, and the illustrations, which are
from French engravings, are admirable.

Hotels, etc. — When the price is stated at a hotel or pension as
so much a day, it is always best to inquire whether " service " is
included or not ; otherwise one may find, when he settles his
oill, a charge of a franc or more per day under that head.



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APPENDIX. 3 1 1

Galignnnrs. — The tounst will do well to visit the Galignaiii



Online LibraryJohn Jacob AndersonA Satchel guide for the vacation tourist in Europe → online text (page 29 of 31)