John Shenton Bright.

A history of Dorking and the neighbouring parishes, with chapters on the literary associations, flora, fauna, geology, etc., of the district online

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Online LibraryJohn Shenton BrightA history of Dorking and the neighbouring parishes, with chapters on the literary associations, flora, fauna, geology, etc., of the district → online text (page 22 of 28)
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1. Of Liberty and Servitude 1649

2. A Character of England 1661

8. The State of France 1642

4. An Essay on the First Book of Lucretius ... 1656

5. Dedicatory Epistles to the French Gardener ... 1658

6. The Golden Book of Ghrysostom concerning the

Education of Children 1659

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7. An Apology for the Koyal Party 1659

8. The Late News from Brussels Unmasked ... 1660

9. The Manner of the Encounter between the French

and Spanish Ambassadors at the Landing of

the Swedish Ambassador —

10. A Panegyrick at his Majesty King Charles 1

Coronation 1661

11. Instructions concerning the Erection of a

Library, &c 1661

12. Tyrannus 1661

18. Fumifugium; or the Inconvenience of the Air

and Smoke of London* 1661

14. Sculptura; or the History of Chalcography and

Engraving on Copper and Mezzotinto ... 1662

15. Sylva; a Discourse on Forest Trees 1664

16. Dedicatory Epistles, &c. ; a Parallel of Ancient

and Modern Architecture 1664

17. Another part of the History of Jesuitism ... 1664

18. Ealendarium Hortense 1664

19. Public Employment and Active Life preferred to

Solitude 1667

20. History of Three Late Impostors 1669

21. An Idea of the Perfection of Printing, from the

French of Boland Freart 1668

* Evelyn remarks, in his preface to " Fumifugium," " that this glorious
and ancient city (London) should wrap her stately head in clouds of smoke and
sulphur, so full of stink and darkness, I deplore with just indignation ; that the
buildings should be composed of such a congestion of mis-shapen and ex-
travagant houses ; that the streets should be so narrow and incommodious in
the very centre and busiest places of intercourse ; that there should bo so ill and
uneasy a form of paving underfoot ; so troublesome and malicious a disposure of
the spouts and gutters overhead, are particulars worthy of reproof and

He advises the removal of all brewers, dryers, salt-boilers, and lime-burners
to a distance of six miles from the city, and the slaughtering of all cattle
outside the walls.

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22. Navigation and Commerce 1674

28. Terra ; a Philosophical Discourse of the Earth ... 1675

24. Mons. de la Quinlynye's Treatise of Orange

Trees, &c. ... 1698

25. Advertisement to the Translation of the Complete

Gardener 1698

26. Ditto to Mons. de la Quinlynye's Directions

concerning Melons —

27. Ditto concerning Orange Trees —

28. Mumismata ; a Discourse on Medals 1699

29. Acetaria ; a Discourse of Salads 1699

80. An Account of Architects and Architecture ... —

81. Letter to Viscount Brouncker concerning a New

Engine for Ploughing 1670

82. Dedication to Benatus Bapinus of Gardens ... 1673
88. Letter to Mr. Aubrey, concerning Surrey

Antiquities 1670

34. Abstract of a Letter to the Royal Society con-
cerning damage done to his Gardens in the
preceding Winter

85. Diary and Letters — published

86. Miscellaneous Writings — edited by Mr. Upcott

87. Life of Mrs. Godolphin

88. History of Beligion



John Evelyn, the third son of " Sylva " Evelyn, gave
early promise of literary attainment. He made several
translations from Benatus Bapinus, Plutarch, and from
French works which described the lives of several Viziers
of the Seraglio, and produced a few original poems, which
have been preserved in Dryden's " Miscellanies " and

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Nichol's " Collections." He died in the prime of life, when
prospects of official promotion in Government appointments
were very cheering. His second daughter, Elizabeth, married
Simon Harcourt, Esq., eldest son and heir of Simon, Lord
Viscount Harcourt, Lord High Chancellor of Great Britain,
by whom she became the mother of the first Earl Harcourt.

The description of the seat, the gardens and the sur-
rounding scenery, from the pen of John Evelyn, fitly
introduces some reference to the condition and treasures
of Wotton House at the present day.

" It is situated in the most southern part of the shire ;
and though in a valley, yet really upon a part of Leith Hill,
one of the most eminent in England for the prodigious
prospect to be seen from its summit, though by few observed ;
from it may be discerned twelve or thirteen counties, with
part of the sea on the coast of Sussex, in a serene day.
The house is large and ancient, suitable to those hospitable
times, and so sweetly environed with those delicious streams
and venerable woods, as, in the judgment of strangers as
well as Englishmen, it may be compared to one of the most
tempting and pleasant seats in the nation, and most tempting
for a great person and a wanton purse to render it con-
spicuous. It has rising grounds, meadows, woods, and water
in abundance. I will say nothing of the air, because the
pre-eminence is universally given to Surrey, the soil being
dry and sandy; but I should speak much of the gardens,
fountains, and groves that adorn it, were they not as
generally known to be amongst the most natural, (and till
this late and universal luxury of the whole nation, since
abounding in such expenses) the most magnificent that
England afforded, and which gave one of the first examples

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to that elegancy, since so much in vogue, and followed for
the managing of their waters, and other elegancies of that

Wotton House is a large brick-built and imposing pile.
It was formerly somewhat irregular, but the recent erection
of the western wing has given it a completeness which, while
it has provided a noble library and suites of bedrooms, has
added much to the beauty of the fabric. A recent enlarge-
ment on the south-eastern side has increased the internal
accommodation, and the front is enriched with terra cotta
ornaments, which contain a part of the family motto,
in Greek : " Hold fast that which is good."

As the mansion has belonged to the Evelyns for more
than three hundred years, it may be imagined that it contains
many treasures and choice works of art which former
owners have gathered, preserved, and bequeathed to their

The following is a brief outline of some of the most
interesting objects in the library and apartments of Wotton
House :

The MS. of the "Officium Sanct© and Individu©
Trinitatis," composed and collected by John Evelyn for his
annual and quotidian use, with Calendar, Tables, &c. The
MS. is beautifully written by Richard Hoar, and signed by
him; it is bound in old crimson morocco with crest and
John Evelyn's monogram. 12° — date 1650. This book of
Prayers was presented by John Evelyn to Mrs. Godolphin;
it was sold by Messrs. Puttick and Simpson on Friday,
March 7th, 1878, for thirty-six pounds, ten shillings, and
now belongs to the Wotton Library.

There are various papers on religious topics, in Evelyn's

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hand-writing, among which may be noted "Advice to My
Son " and " Advice to My Grandson."

There are manuscripts of Evelyn's " Diary" in good
preservation; e.g., (1) Codex A., from the beginning till
February 8rd, 1706, twenty-four days before his death, all
in his hand-writing.

(2) Codex B. The " Diary " from the beginning till
October, 1644, in Evelyn's hand-writing, except the last few
lines, which are in the hand-writing of his grand-son, Sir
John Evelyn, Bart., and is an unfinished, amplified version
or transcript of Codex A. This shews that it was John
Evelyn's intention to re-copy the "Diary," but that he
had not finished the work when he died. Codex C, copied
from Codex B. in a youthful handwriting, apparently in the
year 1787, by John Evelyn's grand-son, afterwards Sir John
Evelyn, of Wotton.

In the library is to be found the Prayer Book used by
Bishop Juxon at the execution of Charles I., with a note
in John Evelyn's hand-writing. The Czar of Muscovy's
letter to Charles II. on his restoration ; and other interesting
documents, are preserved among the treasures of Wotton

There are several portraits of John Evelyn :

One by Vanderborcht »tat 20

Another by Walker, with his hand on a skull ... " 27
Another by Kneller, holding the " Sylva " ... "68

There are etchings of Wotton House by John Evelyn;
a Bible which he annotated ; and a " Hortus Siccus " com-
piled by him at Padua, and curiously illustrated with pen
and ink sketches. There is a portrait of the wife of John
Evelyn, and two paintings of flowers in water-colour on

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vellum, by her in 1650.

The works of art include portraits of Archbishop Tillotson;
Lord Chancellor Harcourt ; Mrs. Godolphin ; Lady Godolphin
and her son; Duchess of Marlborough; Charles I. when
Prince of Wales, after Mytens ; and likenesses of members
of the Evelyn, Harcourt, Brown, and Glanville families.
Among the sculptures is a copy (one-quarter size) of the tomb
of Sir John and Lady Evelyn, at Godstone ; and a bust of Sir
John Evelyn, of Wilts, copied from his tomb. In the picture
gallery are paintings by Paul Veronese, Carlo Maratti, Julio
Bomano, Guido, Palma Yecchio, Hemskirk, and other

Two small panes of glass were purchased at a glazier's
in Dorking, in 1844, and were bought by Mr. Malleson, of
Pulborough. One of them was inscribed with a diamond
by John Evelyn's hand: "Tibi nos, Tibi nostra supellex
ruraque servierint," with his cypher, "John Evelyn," the
motto "Omnia explorate, et meliora retinete," date 1641.

The other had an eye dropping tears on a flaming heart,
with the words, though not in Evelyn's writing,

" Thou that betrayest me to this flame,
Thy power be to quench the same."

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R. Redgrave, Esq., R.A., has admirably illustrated the
neighbourhood of Wotton, and contributed many charming
pictures to the Exhibition of the Royal Academy which
suggest the beauty of the surrounding scenery. In 1849 he
painted "The Evelyn Woods;" and in 1850 there was a
fine work entitled "Beech Trees/' with this suitable motto
from Isaiah lxv. 22, " For as the days of a tree are the days
of my people, and mine elect shall long enjoy the work of
their hands." In 1852 he exhibited " The Woodland Mirror;"
in 1858 " The Forest Portal ; " and, in 1855, " The Source
of the Stream " and " Little Red Riding Hood," of which
latter work Mr. Buskin wrote, "Mr. Redgrave has, as far
I know, never painted so good a landscape. The ferns in the
centre are beautiful, and there is evidence of painstaking
and good feeling everywhere." In 1858 he painted the
pathetic picture, " The Emigrants last look at Home," and,
in 1860, " The Bridle Road." Then followed, in succeeding
years, "A Treasury of Waters," "Ancestral Woods," "The
Return to the Hall" from the avenue leading to Wotton

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House, "The Failing Tear," "Startled Foresters M (deer
alarmed), " Sermons in Stones," " Tranquil Waters," " The
Wreck of the Forest," and "Calling Sheep to the Fold."
In 1874 Mr. Eedgrave painted a landscape looking from
Leith Hill over the Weald of Surrey and Sussex, which is
described as "To Market below the Hills," and is now in
the possession of F. Pennington, Esq., M.P., of Broome Hall ;
and an "Avenue at Denbies" for the Eight Hon. George
Cubitt, M.P. Mr. Eedgrave has, during the last thirty
years, painted two subjects annually in oil, and many water-
colour landscapes of scenes in the neighbourhood of Wotton,
Abinger, and Dorking, which fact shews what wealth of
pictorial beauty exists around, and only awaits the eye to see,
and the hand to represent it, for the gratification of the

The following passage, extracted from the Athenaeum of
December 7th, 1878, refers to another artist who has found
pleasure in the scenery of the neighbourhood, of whom the
critic says : " Mrs. Allingham has brilliant deep-tinted and
homely studies of Surrey Cottages, seated amid towering
trees and superb foliage. There are not fewer than eleven of
these beautiful works ; we can name only two or three ; but
they are all delightful. " A Summer's Day " shows a road-
side cottage with trees about it, and a gravelly lane before it ;
the whole scene saturated, so to say, with a splendid lustre.
" Netty Farm, Share" shows a brilliant noon, a little garish,
as it should be, foliage unlimited in quantity and vividness
of colour, a deep blue sky ; the whole of a rare solidity, and,
technically speaking, as strong as if it were painted in oil.
Oossips, Shere, Surrey, is, we think, the best; it shows a
cottage at the brow of a hill, where a ruddy sunlit road dips

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downward through the wood, a very vivid and perfectly
harmonious picture."

There are many pictures at Wotton House, by Mr. Mott,
of the scenery of Abinger and the neighbourhood; and
Mr. Hook, Mr. Birket Foster, and other artists who, either
constantly or occasionally, select rural subjects for their
pencils, have found attractive passages, and objects for works
of great charm and beauty. Many of these works remain
in the mansions of the gentry around, and others are
dispersed through the country, where they diffuse a knowledge
of the singular variety and sweetness of Surrey scenery.

Yicat Cole, Esq., B.A., who, like Mr. Bedgrave, delights
in Surrey scenery, has painted two admirable pictures for
the Bight Hon. George Cubitt, M.P., which represent " Leith
Hill " in the freshness and beauty of spring ; and " Boxhill"
in all the wealth and vivid colour of autumnal foliage. There
are, at Denbies, and in the London residence, many smaller
though beautiful works, of which the subjects were taken
from the immediate neighbourhood.

In 1858 Mr. John Brett painted, at Mickleham, "The
Stonebreaker, or Born to Labour," the scenery of which is
Boxhill and its curious yew trees. Of this picture Mr. Buskin
remarks: "This, after John Lewis's, is simply the most
perfect piece of painting, with respect to touch, in the
Academy this year. I know no such thistledown, no such
chalk hills, no such natural pieces of far-away cloud in any
of the pro-Baphaelite works."

There is only one work of the late admirable landscape
painter, Linnell, which can be certainly considered as
representing any part of the neighbouring scenery of Dorking.
This was exhibited in the "Old Masters' Exhibition/' in

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1888, consisted of a lovely picture of " Leith Hill," in which
there are cattle and sheep driven along in the foreground,
the Hill in middle distance, and a distant landscape on the
left, and dated J. Linnell, 1861.

Mr. Birket Foster has produced choice pictures from
Holmwood Common, the Mole, and other spots in the
neighbourhood. Mr. Naftel has treated the same subjects,
though with a difference, which, while it preserves the
essential features of the landscape, expresses the individuality
of the artist. In recent years there has arisen a number of
artists in the town who are natives ; and many have come
to reside there, or in the vicinity. The list includes Mr. W.
W. Caffyn, Mr. Daws, Mr. Douglas, Mr. H. Fielder, Mr. C.
Gibbs, Mr. Frank Walton, and Mr. Wilkinson. Besides these
gentlemen, there are many visitors from London and other
parts of the country, who find in the lanes, embowered with
ancient trees ; the windings, the bridges, and lilies of the
Mole; the cottages and woods; and the few ancient and
well-timbered farm houses, sufficient and diversified
employment for their pencils.


This interesting spot is noticed by Hamerton in his
" Etching and Etchers," in the following passage :

"The preparation of this volume has compelled me to
examine all the most notable etchings which have been
produced since the invention of the art. In the course of
these studies I have looked over several thousand plates, and
having selected two or three hundred of the best, weighed

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their relative merits with the most scrupulous care. The
reader will therefore do me the justice to believe that any
expression to which I commit myself, has been preceded by
long deliberation. It is easy to blame; and censure has
always this element of safety, that there is imperfection, or
at least limitation, in all human endeavour, and that he who
discovers faults places himself on a judicial seat, whilst
humble admiration implies some acknowledgment of
inferiority. A great critic of literature observed to me that
it needed courage to praise without reserve, and there is so
little reserve in what I am going to say, that I need this
courage now.

"With the single exception of one plate, by Claude (Les
Bouviers), this is the finest etching of a landscape subject
that has ever been executed in the world. In all fine art,
strength and delicacy are the extremes of expressional power,
and the stronger the strength, and the more delicate the
delicacy, the larger in this sense is the compass of the artist.
In this plate we have both, and both in supreme degree.
The strength is not expressed by violence, but by the
unimaginable richness of the great soft masses of near
foliage, and the rapid sketching of the nearest reeds. The
wild duck is put in with a few incisive lines of dry-point so
true in movement that the bird is set before us with a vital
force. The heavy body hangs from the lifting wings, and the
head peers forward in the alarm of sudden flight. Under
the reeds the water is dark with full reflections, but where
the wild duck has just quitted it there is a bright confusion
of momentary disturbance. The smooth little wavelets play
softly among the reeds, and their liquid swelling, and the
flight of the bird are the only notes that break the melody

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of repose. And, as to the right hand, we have foliage in
the utmost fullness of great masses, so in the centre and
left of the composition we have it in its slenderest grace.
There is no contrast in human or animal form so marked
and extreme as this. From the wild duck to the heron,
from the ox to the giraffe, the transition is not so great as
that from the orbed immensity of the full foliaged chestnut
to the slimness of the young poplar, whose leaves may almost
be counted, and whose trunk may be grasped by the hand.
But all these things are obvious, and may be expected in
words ; that which is not so obvious, nor so easily written
about, is the subtle play of soft gradations, like the
modulations of the tenderest music, the passage from all
that is richest and fullest to all that is thinnest and clearest,
a transition managed without abruptness, without violence,
and yet passing from extreme to extreme."


In 1873 there was a Parliamentary return of owners of
land in England, and the following list of the proprietors of
landed property in the neighbourhood of Dorking is presented
in alphabetical order, as found in the official return, from
forty acres and upwards, with fractions of acres omitted.



Exors. of R. Attlee, Esq.

Albury Rectory

Lord Abinger

H. D. Barclay, Esq., Great Bookham
Robert Barclay, Esq., of Bury Hill





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Beginald Bray, Esq., Shore

H. F. Broadwood, Esq., Newdigate

Sir Benjamin Brodie

Edward Budd, Esq., Letherhead

Captain Gazalet, Gapel

Thomas Chitty, Esq., Letherhead

Gordon W. Clark, Esq

Bight Hon. George Cubitt, Denbies
A. Dixon, Esq., Letherhead
Mrs. Drummond, Fredley

Bev. E. B. Evelyn

W. J. Evelyn, Esq., Wotton House
Sir T. H. Farrer, Abinger

J. Frazer, Esq., Shere

W. Freshfield, Esq., Newdigate ...
G. A. Fuller, Esq., Bookery
Edward Goulburn, Esq., Betchworth
T. D. Grissell, Esq., Norbury ...
Thomas Grissell, Esq., Letherhead
M. B. Hawkins, Esq., Holmwood
D. D. Heath, Esq.
Sir Leopold G. Heath, Anstie
Mrs. Henderson, Letherhead
Exors. of Mrs. Hope, Deepdene ,
Ditto ditto

Bev. W. F. Hotham, Buekland
Misses Hunt, Shere

Duke of Norfolk

Duke of Northumberland
Oakwood, Trustees of
































x 2

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F. Pennington, Esq., Broome Hall, Capel
L. M. Rate, Esq., Milton Court

G. F. Richardson, Esq., Letherhead

Hon. P. C. Scarlett, Abinger

Exors. of William Stevens, Esq., Dorking

Lee Steere, Esq., Charlwood

J. G. Stilwell, Esq., Dorking

C. M. Tatham, Esq., Effingham

George Trist, Newdigate

Rev. E. D. Wickham, Holm wood

R. L. V. Williams, Esq., Abinger

Henry Wise, E sq., Brockham

John Worsfold, Esq., Brockham
H. Young, Trustees of, Dorking
John Young, Esq., Dorking







around Dorking and its neighbourhood, according to the
Government Map.



Caesar's Camp,


... 600

Hindhead ...

... ... ... ...

... 894

St. Martha's


... 578

Ewhurst Mill


... 880

Coneyhurst ...


... 847

Holmbury ...


... 857

LeithHill ...


... 966

Anstiebury ...


... 806

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Hog's Back

... 504

Newlands* Corner

... 528

White Downs, near Kanmore Common ..

... 744

Kanmore Church

... 620

Norbury Park

... 400

Headley Church

... 584

Brockham Warren

... 700

Box Hill

... 600



1. Round Holmwood Common and back by Brockham


2. Over Kanmore Common and back by Westhumble Lane.

3. Through Mickleham, Letherhead, Bookham and Ef-

fingham, and back by Kanmore Common.

4. Through Westcott and Logmore Lane, and back by


5. Bound Holmwood Common and Blackbrook, and back

by Chart Lane.

6. Through Westcott, Wotton (ask at the Lodge if you

may drive round by the House), Abinger Common,
Leith Hill, and back by Coldharbour.

7. Through Punchbowl Lane to Golden Lands' Farm, Root

Hill, and back by Brockham Green.

8. To Tillingbourne Waterfall, turning on the Guildford

Road by Wotton Hatch, Broadmoor, on to Leith Hill,
Ockley Green, Beare Green, and back by Holmwood

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9. To Albury and the Silent Pool, and back.
10. To Betchworth, through Buckland, and back.


1. Deepdene Park, on the Beigate Boad, to Betchworth

Park, Avenue and Castle — turn to the right for
Brockham, and return by the turnpike road.

2. Punchbowl Lane to Qolden Lands' Farm, by Tilehurst

Lane and Pondtail Farm, to Brockham and by
Betchworth Park to Dorking.
8. Chart Lane, by Dene Street, to Holmwood, and by
Horsham Boad to Dorking.

4. The Glory, by St. Paul's Schools, cross to the western

side of the Glory, and return by St. Paul's Road,
formerly called Sweethearts' Lane.

5. Holmwood, to Bedland Woods, and by Coldharbour Lane

to Dorking.

6. Coldharbour Lane, turn to the right by Chadhurst Farm,

and return by Milton and Guildford Boad to Dorking.

7. Through the Nower to Bury Hill, over Hungry Hill to

Westcott, and back by Milton Court to Dorking.

8. Bookery, on the Guildford Boad, across to Tillingbourne,

and back by Logmore.

9. Rokefield, near Westcott, to Wotton Bectory, Church,

by Wotton House, and back by road to Dorking.

10. Bokefield, Deerleap, Bishop Wilberforce's Monument

at Eversheds' Bough, by back of Abinger Hall to
Gomshall Station, and return by train.

11. Banmore Common, turn to the left to Pickett's Hole,

Coombe, and back by Westcott or Bokefield.

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12. Denbies, by the private carriage road near the South
Eastern Railway Station, past the mansion, and
return by the London Road.

18. Eanmore Common, Old Dean, Pilgrims' Chapel, by
Camilla Lacy and Westhumble to Dorking.

14. Box Hill, by the entrance near Burford Bridge, round

the south side of the Hill, descend, cross the fields
to Castle Mill, and by the Beigate Road to Dorking.

15. By the London Boad to Mickleham, turn by Juniper

Hall, bear towards the south side of Boxhill, and

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Online LibraryJohn Shenton BrightA history of Dorking and the neighbouring parishes, with chapters on the literary associations, flora, fauna, geology, etc., of the district → online text (page 22 of 28)