Joseph Palmer.

A fortnight's ramble to the lakes in Westmorland, Lancashire, and Cumberland online

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Heaveks ! what a goodly profpeft fpreads around
Of Hills, and Dales, and Woods, and Lawns !

Happy Britankia ! where the Queen of Arts
Infpiring vigour, Liberty abroad
Walks, unconfin'd, even to thy fartheft cots,
And fcatters plenty with unfparing hand.





" J79S. ,'^IVbi.







- P H ^^^ ^ "7 ^■"



/\,6. ^^;

, c

iii )


Felly a barren


Cragy a rough-

-opped hill.

Sykey a little rivulet.

Tartly a fmall lake. j

An Explanation of fame of the Provincial Words,

an, —


aw, —


bu, —


con, —


cum, —

come. ,

deed, —


dun naw, —

do not.


faither, —


feaft, —

faa. ' . '

fealt no pean,

felt no pain.

fellar, —


gien nm feck.

given them fuch.

lard, —


• neames, —


tha mun, —

thou muft.

th' cradle, —

the cradle.

thinken umfelve.

5, think themfelves.

t' kno, —

to know.

um, — ■


wad, —


yon mon, —

yonder man.

N. B. As the Author has no Vocabulary to go by, h«

judges from the ear.


( ^ }


of London",

ERE there a man on eartii
whom I efteem more than I do you,
to him fhoiild this book have beeri
dedicated. You expreffed a wiih to
vifit your native country. Moft wil-
hngly I accompanied you. A better
guide I could not have had. Your
approval of my defcriptions made
me write with energy and fleetnefsj
and drew me before the publick,

a 3 Tq

( vi )

To make known the many obli-
gations I am under to you, would
hurt your feelings, and I could not do
juftice to the fubje6l. One amongft
the leafi: I venture to fpeak of. —
You ordered a captain of a fhip, du-
ring hard times at Gibraltar, to fup-
ply me with whatever I wanted,
either in meat, liquors, or apparel.

I wiiU lay no more ; but in this lit-
tle I mean every thing that is grate-
ful ; and, am with real efleem,

My dear friend,

your very obliged,

and faithful fervant,

m:;'7;:i Jos. budworth.

( ^ii )



JLOUNGING away my time at my
bookfeller's, a North country gentle-
man came into the fhop, and en-
quired for ^ Fortnight's Ramble.
Unfortunately this man of decifion
opened the book where Fancy had
been ranging. I never ihall forget the
twift with which he threw it down,
faying—" this man pretends to be a
a 4 ** wit ;

( viii )
" wit; I'll purchafe none of it." My
bookfeller and I interchanged a fmile
at this new order of criticifrn ; and,
if this edition ihould fall into my
cenfor s hands, I hope he will read
thus far ; as I would wifh to remind
him of the full invefcigation of the
fadls on which he grounded his ver-

The fale of the firft edition was
larger than I had any right to ex-
pe6l; and it would have been more
fo, had I not been convinced it was
very incorrecSl: I owed it therefore
to the publick, to difregard emolu-
ment, and it has been two years


( i^ )

It paffed not through the literary
orde^al without experiencing a feve-
rity of criticifm, that has been of
fervice to me ; and amongft thofe
Reviewers who had made the tour.
I feel gratified in having been al-
lowed " to prefent fcenes afrefh to
the memory" — and anfwering for— ^
" fidelity in defcription."

Much as I wiihed the former
book to have undergone the im-
provement of correftion ; I knew
not how to aik any one to trouble
himfelf with fo unwelcome an em-
ploy — efpecially as a literary perfon,
whofe early purfuits in life were the
feme as my own, had declined a fi-
milar requeft, from a multiplicity of


{ X )

public and more interefting engage-
ments ; but, when " the tempeft of
poUticks" engroffes the mind, rural
fcenes can only tend to encreafe
mental turbulence, by a momentary
refle6lion on the quiet it has forfaken ;
and who would envy the fame and
fortune of any one in pofleflion of
both, by mixing in troubled waters ?

I have now the good fortune to
acknowledge obligations to the Rev.
Mr. Holme, vicar of Shap in Weft-
moreland, who has not only cor-
re6led many errors fo volatile a
writer is liable to, but hath fa-
voured me with interefting notes. —
Although unknown to this clergyman,
I have reafon to think with thofe
who fpeak of him, that he is a man


( ^i )

of eminent abilities ; and it is pro-
bably a lofs to the learned world,
that fo good a fcholar has been fo
long concealed under fo fmall a li-
ving —

" To all the country dear,
'^ And palling rich on forty pounds a year."

By fuch affiftance I with more con-
fidence meet " the wrinkled brow."

My memory has prefented me
with additions both in profe and
verfe ; and I make no apology for
introducing a village-wedding to the
notice of thofe who can be charm-
ed with partial cuftoms in country

This excuriion was at the requeft
of a friend; and I was fo pleafed

2, with

( xii )
■with every thing I faw, I hope
there are fome few who will not be
difpleafed with niy nianner of tell-
ing it. Whatever I have written
came warm from the imagination,
with the views full before it. I
have always been an admirer of the
works of Nature, and I never faw
them in fuch liberal features before :
I have no fine houfes, no fine paint-
ings, no compliments to great peo-
ple, to fwell out my book with ;^ —
my portraits are cottagers, my pic-
tures what Nature has lavifhed
around them. — When I do praife a
rich man, it fhall never be on ac-
count of his wealth, but for thofe
unremitting a6ls of philanthropy^
thofe only deferving of efteem, that


( xiii )
fliower down in charity wherever it
is wanted,

The inhabitants are as peacefiii
as their valleys, and feem to have
no inclination to leave them ; they
even talk of their forefathers, and
carry an oral account for feveral
generations of any one who has
been out of the common way. One
man told us, ^' My faither, gran-
*' faither, an grait granfaither,
'* fearmed yon lake, an 1 wad naw
'• leave this pleace for aw th'
" world."— This valley had no
more than fourteen houfes, and is
io entombed in mountains, that
only one chaife has been known to

vifit it. ^Happy man ! well doll

thou prove that Nature imprefles


( xiv )
the ftrongeft attachments where fhe
is undifturbed, and that every thing
around them grows in their minds,
and becomes a neceflary part of
them. — ^Pr'ythee, Mortal ! doft not
thou think this iimple villager has
given (in a few words) as pra6lical
a proof of contentment as volumes
could contain ?

Thofe who make the tour of the
Lakes, and will examine any of the
views I attempt to defcribe, if they
fee them from the points I did, and
in the laft week in July and the firft
in Augufl:, making allowances for
the fancies of Nature, or the pru-
ning hand of man, may, perhaps,
give me the credit of delineating
faithfully; and they will be well


( XV )

repaid, againfl: any of my omiffions,
by finding out new beauties of their
own : and I truft thofe who do not
vilit them, by taking the trouble
of perufing this Ramble, will have
fome enlivening fcenes and ufefial
characters prefented to them.

We were exac^hly one fortnight,
with conftant fine weather ^*, during
which we walked upwards of two
hundred and forty miles, befides
boat and chaife conveyance ; and
what with admiring the wonders
around us, writing them down, or
ftoring them in my memory for an

* We commenced our Ramble after very wet
weather, which gave us a fight of the waterfalls to
advantage ; the day we flnifhed it began to rain-^
and I believe a wetter Autumn was never known.


( xvl )
early morning's pen, I can truly
fay, I enjoyed a noble hurry of ima-
gination, and that I had not time
to be idle.

The friend I accompanied was
my guide ; he had been at the
Lakes before : his tafte led him thi-
ther again, and I have to exprefs
myfelf lingularly obliged for many
features he pointed out, which my
mind had not taken in. He had
" Mr. West's Guide to the Lakes,"
but did not make ufe of it. Mr.
West, I underftand was a fcholar
of a warm fancy ; he had ftudied
their beauties minutely, and, from
living near them, took time to be
corre6l. I believe that gentleman
has brought much company, and
4 will

( xvii )
will always be recolleiled (for he 1^
now no more !) as their beft patron.
I would with pleafure have read his
book, if I had not been apprehenfive
it might have fupprefled this, which
does not merit the name of a Guide^
and is only offered as a Journeying
Companion. It was cuftomary, I am
told, to daih by them with an excla-
mation or two of, " Oh ! how fine !"
&c. ; or, as a gentleman faid to Ro-
bin Partridge the day after we were
upon Windermere, " Good God !
" how delightful! — how charming!
*' — I could live here for ever! — '-
" Row on, row on, row on, row on ;"
and after paffing One hour of excla-
mations upon the Lake, and half an
hour at Amblefide, he ordered his
horfes into his phaeton, and flew off
b to

( xviii )
to take (I doubt not) an equally-flying
view of Der went water. Robin Par-
tridge, when he told us of it, afked
us if we thought '' the gentleman
*' was as compofed as he fud be?"

It is now fo meritorioufly the
fafhion to make this tour, I dare
almoft fay it will be thought want
of tafte not to be able to fpeak
about it; for, it only wants to be
made, to have the preference of every
fummer excuriion in the kingdom.
Had thefe beauties been formed in
a foreign land, they would have
been long ago more known ; but
lince a once-boailed, thoup^h now
unfortunate, part of the Continent
is become a fcene of horror and de-
vaftation, they may be thought wor-

'( ^ix )

thy attention. — I was telling a Grand
Tourift where I had been ; and he
daihed off to Switzerland. We have
no reafon to depreciate other coun-
tries in commending our own ; but
Nature has fported fuch variety at
HOME, no views can exceed them in
that delightful miniature which the
eye takes in, without being either
glutted by expanfe, or disgusted
by deformity*

The fhortnefs of our Ramble did
not allow us to vifit every Lake ;
and I regret what I have faid of Baf-
fenthwaite, Coniftone, and Hawf-
water, is fo unequal to what they
merit — ^we only faw them in per-
fpecftive. I ftill hope to vifit them,
for, in my rambling life, I have never

b 2 feen

( XX )

feen any thing equal to their beau-
ties ; and to repeat the pleafures I en-
joyed is a moil: refrefhing fatisfac-
tion, and I muil think it allowed
tautology. — Ambleiide, or Low
Wood, are the bef!: iituated for head-
quarters the firft week ; and Kefwick,
for the remainder of the tour. Kef-
wick is the little London of the towns
about the Lakes ; and we obferved,
as in all large places, the expence is

Reader! when thou coniiderefl
the laborious mountains we traverfed,
with but one arm to trufl: to, and that
the greateft part of the writing took
up the fame fortnight, I fball hope
thou wilt meet me v/ith good-hu-


( xxi )



AJlight Touch of a Margate Hoy ; not to be
read before Breakfaji^ except you have
been in a Gale of Wind at Sea Page i

CHAP. 11.

A Mail-Coach — — p. 6


Crofs the Country to Kendal — A Village
Wedding — Fatigue — Covered by Sancho
Panca s incomparable Cloak — The River
Ken — Salmon- leaping — Lev en's Park —
The Houfe — A Tiquor called Morocco—-
Haverfham Village — Sexton^ a Man of
Peeling — — p. 12


A Village Danci?ig-Majier — An aged Ma-
tron — Rujiic Politenefs on her Entrance
■ — A Hornpipe — The Rofe Dance — Far-
b 3 7ner''s

( xxii )

iner^s Servant — A Barn Dancing-School
— The Church — Dinnei — Return to Le^
vens — The Gardens — Antiquated Houfe-
keeper — Kitchen Grate — p. 22


FetriJ anions — Kendal Church-— A ^arher^
a Man of Family p. 32


Ohelijk — Children in Kendal Jickly — Induf-
try — New Canal — Tenter-Grounds — A
Man of higenuity, — P* 3^


In^ s Chapel — Indufry rewarded-^-Benevo-
lence — A firjl Sight of the Takes — Boats
npon Windermere — Amblefide p. 44


A kind of Apology for myfelf—^Rydal Water-
falls — RydalTake — Amphitheatre around
it- — Grafsmere — A Country Ale Houfe — ■

. Went upon the Take— An Attempt at De-

fcription — A Prayer for the hihabitants

— Crooked Chimney an Eye- fore p. 48


( xxiii )


Windermere. — - — ^oo much Defcriptio?i — ■
Thompjon'' s If and — — p, c^


Windermere. 'Bo\Y-nQ{s— An Adder— -

Robin Partridge* s Finger^ and an old
Irijhwoman^ s Charms — Robin angry be'-
caufe I want Faith — Remnants of Fur-
nefs Abbey Window- — 'To fee Windermere
to Advantage — p. 68


Patterdale.— -L(2r^(? Farms detrimental
— A Walk to Patterdale — More Defcrip-
tion — Six magnificent Mountains — The
Vale of Patterdale — JVild Strawberries

— The ChurchTard — The King of Patter-
dale'' s Palace — Could not get Admittance

— The Prince'' s Sons fine Children— Ty-
ulph''s I'ower — March, quick one — Re-
ceipt againfi Fatigue — A hearty Meal —
The Landlord — A Coin found — Cuftom
relative to fir aggie d Sheep — A Maid of
Honour — The Queen thirsty p. 7^

b 4 CHAi\

( xxiv )


Patterdale. -Set off again to ike Palace

— Meet an old Woman — Who Jhe was — -
Enter into Converfation with her Ma-
jesty — Some Gin — Her Majejiy^s Rear
fons for preferring Ale — -'The Difajier that
gave us the Honour of her Company. —
Complains of the King — Her white Hand
• — Why Jhe fuppofes us rich — Her Po^
verty and Pic he s — The King an old Fool
— Ohferve the King — Her Majtjiy abufes
him — Wants to jell two Wethers — I'he
^een getting more fuddled — Her own
Account of her Behaviour at Church —
She gets worfe andwofe — The Parfon
of the Parifh ■— — p. 89


Strength of RecolleEiion — A Rujh bearing
— — -— p. 96


The King of Patterdale • His great Age

« — Suppofed why called fo — Afonifhing
Accumulation of Wealth — Mode of try -


( XXV )

hg Strength of Pomes — CaJI away o?i an
uninhabited IJland — Contrivance to eat
his ViEiuals^ without his AJftJiant know-
ing he had any — His peculiar Mode of
letting Fields^ &c. — Partiality for Sugar
— Only out-cunninged in his Amours —
Excellent Chara£ier of his Son — His Ma~
jejiy'^s Reafonsfor not giving tot he Poor —
The Slueen offers her Grandaughter in
Marriage — Refpe& paid to her by the
Country People. p. i o i


The Afcent of Helm Crag Js the Sub-

jetl of this Chapter is ne.w to the Author^
he chufes to fay nothing more about //,
but that he deals fomewhat tn Surmife ;
and he leaves the Dec if on to more learned
Heads — - — — p. 109


Conijione Lake— Reafonsfor thinking a Man
a Guide — The old Man — Impulfe to viftt
it — Repent — The old Gefitleman^ s mojjy
C loathing — Sheep — A Spring — Views
difcernlbk — Lafy Defcent — Lev en s Caf-


( XXVi )

cade — Walk up a Cafemate-^ Copper
Works — Slate ^.arry - 'A Volcano —
Afraid to vijit tt — A young Man attempts^
and fwoons — His Manner to avoid being
laughed at — Superfiition — Full a Match
for Robin Partridge'* s — Ghojls — Whijl-
hng a Charm againjl them p. i iS

A Peep into Troutbeck Dale — All defcrip-
tive ; if you don't chufe to read it, let it
alone — But take a Walk to it^ and if you
meet the fame pretty Girl and obliging Per-
fon we did, fo much the better p. 128


Amblefide Waterfall. d Copy of

Verfes, introduced to Jhew you I am no
defpicable Poet ; but, as Poetry is a Drug,
turn to the next Leaf, and you will fnd
I got a bad Tumble, with Advice to
guard againf fuch Dfajiers p. 12s


The Weftons — A Song to rock a Cradle by
— Hawkefhead — An Epitaph calculated

( xxvii )

to remind us of the Inji ability of human
Life — SchoolBoys, a noble Sight — Cheap-
nefs of Boarding — A good School — A
Debt of Honour^ — A Pajhral Dinner—-
People who live fo- — Fine Stocks for fine
Children — l^he Rathay and the Brathay
'-^Haymakers at Dinner P* ^37


Roman Station — A large Frog — Charity —
Charadier of a good Man p. I48


Helvellyn. Full Moon — Courfe to HeU

vellyn — Difficult Undertaking — Kews —
Violent Thirft — A Tarn — Diffuadedfrom
drinking. — A narrow .Hill- — Baffien-
thwaite Lake. — p. 15.-3


Helvellyn. Hth^ llyn Man — Differently

named — Liberty taken by the Author out
of Compliment to the Duke of Norjolk —
A fight Sketch of his C haraBer— Ap-
pearance of Ullfrvater Lake from Helvel-
lyn— ^Defcent to a Spring — Our extreme
Joy — A Copy of Verfes. P* ^ 57


( xxviii )


Helvellyn.' — *— Vanity on overlooking Jtx
Mountains — MoJJy Sheathing giving way
— Broiling Stones down Helvellyn — Cau-
tion in the Defcent — Wyburn hake — A
Sheep-Birth — A grand Canopy — A hearty
Breakfaji — And a chatty old Woman

p. 1 66

CHAP. xxiy.

Kefwick. Road to Kefwick — Kefwick

Fair — Once famous for heather — Reafons
for its Decay — Mirth replaces Proft,

. P- 172


Crofsthwaite^s Mu/eum-r-Refnement in lit-
■ tie Vagrants — Defcription of the Play-
Hoife — Their Muftc — A full Houfe—^
Reafons for leaving it-^^Awoke by Dan-
cing — A blind Fidler p. in ^


Derwenter Lake JVent upon the Lake

• — A Bottom Wind — EffeB on the Boat — ■
Floating Ifland — Silver Hill — Beautiful


( xxix )

Compafs of the Lake — Its Cleamefs—^
Low dor e Water-Fall — IVild Fruit — Cur-
ly-headed Children — p. i8i

Derwenter Lake. — — Bowdore Stone — and
many others forced from their Parent: —
Scope for Botany — Barrowdale — Afcend
Cajile Crag — Interior Richnefs of Bar-
rowdale — JVad Mine — Herb erf sifland — •
A Refedion on it — The Lady Derwent-
watei"'* s Efcape — Manager s Speech on
having a thin Houje — Afloort Account
of him — — p. 189


Buttermere. Enchanting Walk — New-
land Valley — Rujiic Civility — Two Wa-
terfalls — Mountain Pafiures — The Vil-
lage of Buttermere — p. 201


Buttermere. A Guide — Difagreeable

Walk — Buttermere and Crummack Lakes
— Sound of Scale-Force Waterfall — Its
delicate Lffe£l — Defcription of it — Rea-


( XXX )

fens why the Inhabitants do not know the
Names of their Mountains— Natural Child
— Candour of his Mother — Manner of

fupporting their Poor — Chapel and School
both one — Without a Clergyman^lnha-
hitants ufed to chufe their own — School-
mafer officiates as Parfon — Their Regret
at the want of one, — ■ p. 205


Buttermere. — — Number of Families —
Their Riches— -Mode of paying Ale Duty,
and of providing Provifons — Of procuring
Surgeons for the Sick-"— A Rainbow—-
Never but one Chaife in the Valley — Sally
of Buttermere — • P* 3^3


Skiddow. Sumiount Skiddow — De-

lightful Views — I'he Source of the River

Caldew — Ife of Man — Ireland — The Sun

fetting in Scotland — Severe Cold — jDo/-

terell — — p.-^'a*^


Mountains — ^The old Man — Skiddow — Hel-

vellyn^ and Helm Crag. p. 224


( xxxi )


Caftle Hill—AjJonefs Rock — Hutton ths
Guide — His Kefe arches— His Gratitude
— Kefwick Bellman. • — p. 229

The EiffeB of Echo on the Lake-^Ajt'

Irijhman's Account of the Lake of Kil-

larney, — — p. 234


Obfervations. Remarks and Obferva-

tio7is, previous to leaving the La^es,
which, I hope, may not he deemed in^
truding -— — p. 238

The Road to Penrith — The Beacon — Rich
Country — The Borderers — The Cajile
p. 25S


^he Church— Ravages of the Plague — An-
tient Stones in the' Church-Tar d — Vulgar
Opinion about theiU'^^-Refpedt for the
Grave of an old JVoman» ■ p. 262


( xxxii )


tJllfwater.- Ulifivater Lake — Firji Arin

of it — Singular Prefervation of a Mart
and his Horfe — Martindale Valley and
Fells — Famous for the Wild Stag — >
Grand Appearance of Helvellyn — GoiD-
lorough Park — F)eer^ Cattle^ &c. p. 26 7


UlIRvater. Lyulph's 'Tower — Duke of

Norfolk — Style of Living there — The
Cajcade — Shape of the Lake — King Ar-
thur s round 'Table — A modern Shrubbery
—Why Ullfwater Lake exceeds the
others, — — p. 271


Leave Penrith-^Carpet ManufaBory — A
Colle£iion of Timber — Of Hayjiacks —
Knipe Scarr — Vale and Village of B amp-
ton — Hazvfwater Lake — Bamptcn Free-^
School — A Village-School a good Nurfery
for Morals — Druidical Stones at Shap —
The Abbey — The Conclufon — A Copy of

Verfes, ^ p. 277




A flight Touch of a Margate Hoy ; not to bi

read before Breakfaf^ except you have

been In a Gale of Wind at Sea.


■^^ More than a Life of Errors mine hath been,

Yet if I write a Thought, the lea ft obfcetie.

May my Young OzjVr^perifh — and may I—

Detefted live, — and unlamented die.^**

I WAS fitting very comfortably in Gar-
ner's gallery at Margate, and had forgot
I had taken my pafTage in the Hoy, until
I faw it warping out. I made the beft ufe
of my legs, took a boat, and was juft in
time to be the lad to complete a full car-
go of live (lock. We were in hopes of
B a to-

2 A Fortnight's Ramble

a tolerably good pafTagCjbut were moflro/-
Ungly becalmed off the Reculvers. There
were many vefTels in fight, and one man
faid— " There is fome comfort in fee-
*' ing others in the fame fituation with

*' ourfelves." " You are a d— d fool

"for your pains," faid a rough cit ;
*' a calm is a ftagnation in trade, it can
"do no good, but a foul wind to fome
" is a fair wind to others." — r-" That's
" all fair, mailer," faid the man at the

It was hot upon deck ; but it was an
oven below, and I obferved moft of us
amujed ourfelves by complaining of want
of wind, &c. A very quizzifh looking
man threw himfelf into a knowing atti-
tude, and was apparently making re-
marks very earneftly through the fpy-
glafs without perceiving the bottom-cafe
was on it. — " Pray, Sir," fays a wag,
" is that a fhip or a brig you are look-
*' ing at ?" — " The people walk about
" fo, can^t touch it." — He did not feem
5 to

TO THE Lakes. g

to enjoy the miftake, but he did not
" toucF'' the glafs again during the trip.

After rolHng about fome time, whift-
ling for a wind as oftlers do to their
horfes when drinking, a breeze fprang
up, and ficknefs, which had ahxady
whitewafhed feveral faces, began to ftir
about. I hrft obferved it in a young lady,
who might have belonged to the family

of the '-' T- 's*," by the flatternly

fineries fhe had about her. Her anxious
mamma perfuaded her " Deary" to go
into the cabin, which was a fignal to be-
gin ; and, by what part of curiofity I was
induced to follow, I know not.

An old fat man, wedged in a two-
armed chair, was confoling and envying
her. — " That's ntce^ Mifs — that's brave-
*' ly done, Mifs!"

I thought I obferved, in the midH: of
pity and exclamations, he only wanted

* See Goldfmith's Fffays.

B 3 in-

4- A Fortnight's Ramble

inducements to make himfelf fick ;
and, in confirmation of my furmife, he
pulled a bottle of camomile tea out of

1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Online LibraryJoseph PalmerA fortnight's ramble to the lakes in Westmorland, Lancashire, and Cumberland → online text (page 1 of 11)