Josiah Tyler.

Livingstone lost and found online

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custom,) had reappeared, and, as the fever had left me, I only
lectured them, and they gave me their promise not to desert
me again under any circumstances. Livingstone's messenger
had passed the night in bonds, because he had resolutely
refused to come. I unloosed him, and gave him a paternal
lecture, painting in glowing colors the benefits he would
receive, if he came along quietly, and the horrible punish-
ment of being chained up until I reached Ujiji, if he was still
resolved not to come. " Kaif Halleck," (Arabic for " How
do you do ?") melted, and readily gave me his promise to
come and obey me as he would his own master Livingstone
until we should see him, " which Inshallah we shall !"
" Please God, please God, we shall," I replied, " and you wilj
be no loser."

During the day my soldiers had captured the others, and
as they all promised obedience and fidelity in future, they
escaped punishment. But I was well aware that so long as I
remained in such close proximity, the temptation to revisit
the fat pasture grounds of Unyanyembe, where they had
luxuriated so long, would be too strong ; and to enable them


to resist I ordered a inarch towards evening, and two hours
after dark we arrived at the village of Kasegera.

It is possible for any of your readers so disposed, to con-
struct a map of the road on which the Herald expedition was
now journeying, if they draw a line one hundred and fifty
miles long, south by west from Unyanyembe, then one hun-
dred and fifty miles west northwest, then ninety miles north,
half east, then seventy miles west by north, and that will take
them to Ujiji.

Before taking up the narrative of the march, I must tell
you that during the night, after reaching Kasegera, two
deserted, and on calling the men to fall in for the road, I
detected two more trying to steal away behind some of the
huts of the village wherein we encamped. An order quietly
given to Chowperch and Bombay soon brought them back,
and without hesitation I had them tied up and flogged, and
then adorned their stubborn necks with the chain kindly lent
by Sheikh bin Nasib.

I had good cause to chuckle complacently for the bright
idea that suggested the chain as a means to check the tendency
of the bounty jumpers to desert ; for these men were as much
bounty jumpers as our refractory roughs during the war, who
pocketed their thousands, and then coolly deserted. These
men, imitating their white prototypes, had received double
pay of cloth, and double rations, and, imagining they could
do with me as they could with the other good white men,
whom tradition kept faithfully in memory, who had proceeded
your correspondent in this country, waited for opportunities
to decamp ; but I was determined to try a new method, not
having the fear of Exeter Hall before my eyes, and I am
happy to say to-day, for the benefit of all future travelers,
that it is the best method yet adopted, and that I will never
travel in Africa again, without a good, long chain.

Chowperch and Bombay returned to Unyanyembe, and
the " Herald Expedition " kept on its way south, for I desired
to put as many miles as possible between that district and
ourselves, for I perceived that few were inclined for the road,


my white man, I am sorry to say, least of all. The village
of Kigandu was reached, after four hours' march from Kase-

As we entered the camp, Shaw, the Englishman, fell from
his donkey, and, despite all endeavors to raise him up, refused
to stand. When his tent was pitched, I had him carried in
from the sun, and after tea was made, I persuaded him to
swallow a cup, which seemed to revive him. He then said
to me :

" Mr. Stanley, I don't believe I can go further with you.
I feel very much worse, and I beg of you to let me go

This was just what I expected. I knew perfectly well what
was coming, while he was drinking his tea, and, with the
illustrious example of Livingstone traveling by himself before
me, I was asking myself, would it not be just as well for me
to try to do the same thing, instead of dragging an unwilling
man with me, who would, if I refused to send him back, be
only a hindrance ? So I told him :

" "Well, my dear Shaw, I have come to the conclusion that
it is best you should return, and I will hire some carriers to
take you back in a cot, which I will have made immediately
to carry you in. In the meanwhile, for your own sake, I
would advise you to keep yourself as busy as possible, and
follow the instructions as to diet and medicine which I will
write out for you. You shall have the key to the store-room,
and you can help yourself to anything you may fancy."

These were the words with which I parted from him as
next morning I only bade him good bye, besides enjoining on
him to be of good hope, as, if I was successful, not more than
five months would elapse before I would return to Unyan-
yembe. Chowperch and Bombay returned before I started
from Kigandu, with the runaways, and after administering to
them a sound flogging, I chained them, and the expedition
was once more on its way.

"We were about entering the immense forest that separates
Unyanyembe from the district of Ugunda. In lengthy,


undulating waves, the land stretches before us the new land
which no European knew, the unknown, mystic land. The
view which the eyes hurry to embrace, as we ascend some
ridge higher than another, is one of the most disheartening
that can be conceived. Away, one beyond another, wave the
lengthy rectilinear ridges, clad in the same garb of color.
Woods, woods, woods, forests, leafy branches, green and sere,
yellow and dark red and purple, then an indefinable ocean,
bluer than the bluest sky. The horizon all around shows the
same scene a sky dropping into the depths of the endless
forest, with but two or three tall giants of the forest higher
than their neighbors, which are conspicuous in their outlines,
to break the monotony of the scene. On no one point do
our eyes rest with pleasure ; they have viewed the same out-
lines, the same forest, and the same horizon, day after day,
week after week ; and again, like Noah's dove from wander-
Ing over a world without a halting place, return wearied with
the search.

Mukunguru, or fever, is very plentiful in these forests,
owing to their density preventing free circulation of air, as
well as want of drainage. As we proceed on our journey, in
the dry season, as it is with us now, we see nothing very
offensive to the sight. If the trees are dense, impeding fresh
air, we are shaded from the sun, and may often walk long
stretches with the hat off. Numbers of trees lie about, in
the last stages of decay, and working with might and main,
are numberless ants of various species, to clear the encumbered
ground, and thus they do such a country as this great service.
Impalpably, however, the poison of the dead and corrupting
vegetation is inhaled into the system, with often as fatal
result as that which is said to arise from the vicinity of the
upas tree.

The first evil results experienced from the presence of
malaria, are confined bowels, an oppressive languor, excessive
drowsiness, and a constant disposition to yawn. The tongue
has a sickly yellow hue, or is colored almost to blackness ;
even the teeth assume a yellow color, and become coated with


an offensive matter. The eyes sparkle with a lustre which is
an unmistakable symptom of the fever in its incipient state,
which presently will rage through the system, and lay the
sufferer prostrate, quivering with agony.

This fever is sometimes proceeded by a violent shaking fit,
during which period blankets may be heaped upon the sufferer
with but little amelioration of his state. It is then succeeded
by an unusually severe headache, with excessive pains about
the loins and spinal column, spreading gradually over the
shoulder blades, and which, running up the nape of the neck,
finally find a lodgment in the posterior or front parts of the
head. This kind is generally of the intermittent type, and
is not considered dangerous. The remittent form the most
dangerous is not proceeded by a fainting fit, but the patient
is at once seized with excessive heat, throbbing temples, loin
and spinal aches ; a raging thirst takes possession of him, and
the brain becomes clouded with strange fancies, which some-
times assume most hideous shapes. Before the darkened
vision, float in a seething atmosphere figures of created and
uncreated, possible and impossible -figures, which are meta-
morphosed every instant into stranger shapes and designs,
growing every instant more confused, more complicated,
hideous, and terrible, until the sufferer, unable to bear longer
the distracting scene, with an effort opens his eyes and dis-
solves it, only to glide again unconsciously into another
dreamland, where a similar unreal inferno is dioramically

It takes seven hours to traverse the forest between Kigandu
and Ugunda, when we come to the capital of the new district,
wherein one may laugh at Mirambo and his forest thieves.
At least the Sultan, or Lord of Ugunda, feels in a laughing
mood while in his strong, stockade, should one but hint to
him that Mirambo might come to settle up the long debt that
Chieftain owes him, for defeating him the last time a year
ago when he attempted to storm his place.

And well may the Sultan laugh at him, and all others which
the hospitable Chief may permit to reside within, for it is the


strongest place except Simba-Moeni and Kwihara, in
Unyanyembe I have as yet seen in Africa. The defences
of the capital consist of a strong stockade surrounding it, or
tall, thick poles planted deep in the earth, and so close to
each other in some places, that a spear head could not be
driven between. At intervals, also, rise wooden towers above
the palisade, where the best marksman, known for their skill
with the musket, are posted, to pick out the foremost or
most prominent of the assailants. Against such forces as the
African chiefs could bring against such palisaded villages,
Uganda may be considered impregnable, though a few white
men with a two-pounder might soon eifect an entrance.

Having arrived safely at Ugunda, we may now proceed on
our journey fearless of Mirambo, though he has attacked
places four days south of this ; but as he has already at a
former time, felt the power of the Wanyamwezi of Ugunda,
he will not venture again in a hurry. On the sixth day of
our departure from Unyanyembe, we continued our journey

Three long marches, under a hot sun, through jungly plains,
heat-cracked expanses of prairie land, through young forests,
haunted by the tsetse and sword flies, considered fatal to
cattle, brought us to the gates of a village called Manyara,
whose chief was determined not to let us in nor sell us a grain
of corn, because he had never seen a white man before, and
he must know all about this wonderful specimen of humanity,
before he would allow us to pass through his country. My
men were immediately dismayed at this, and the guide, whom
I had already marked as a coward, and one I mistrusted,
quaked as if he had the ague. The chief, however, expressed
his belief that we should find a suitable camping-place near
some pools of water distant half a mile to the right of his

Having arrived at the khambi, or camp, I despatched Bom-
bay with a propitiating gift of cloth to the chief a gift at
once so handsome and so munificent, consisting of no less
than two royal cloths and three common dotis, that the chief


surrendered at once, declaring that the white man was a supe-
rior being to any he had ever seen.

" Surely," said he, " he must have a friend ; otherwise how
came he to send me such fine clothes ? Tell the white man
that I shall come and see him."

Permission was at once given to his people to sell us as
much corn as we needed. We had barely finished distribu-
ting five days' rations to each man when the chief was

Gun-bearers, twenty in number, preceded him, and thirty
spear-men followed him, and behind these came eight or ten
men, loaded with gifts of honey, native beer, holcus sorghum,
beans and maize. I at once advanced and invited the chief
to my tent, which had undergone some alterations, that I
might honor him as much as lay in my power. Ma-manyara
was a tall, stalwart man, with a very pleasing face. He car-
ried in his hand a couple of spears, and, with the exception
of a well-worn barsati around his loins, he was naked. Three
of his principal men and himself were invited to sit on my
Persian carpet. They began to admire it excessively, and
asked if it came from my country ? Where was my country ?
Was it large ? How many days to it ? Was I a king ? Had
I many soldiers ? were questions quickly asked, and as quickly
answered, and the ice being broken, the chief being equally
candid as I was myself, he grasped my fore and middle fin-
gers, and vowed we were friends. The revolvers and Win-
chester's repeating rifles were things so wonderful, thai to
attempt to give you any idea of how awe-struck he and his
men were, would task my powers.

The chief roared with laughter ; he tickled his men in the
ribs with his fore-finger, he clasped their fore and middle fin-
gers, and vowed that the Muzungu was a wonder, a marvel,
and no mistake. Did they ever see anything like it ?

" No," his men solemnly said.

Did they ever hear anything like it before 1

" No," as solemnly as before.


"Is he not a wonder? Quite a wonder positively a
wonder !"

My medicine chest was opened next, and I uncorked a
small phial of medicinal brandy, and gave them each a spoon-
ful. The men all gazed at their chief, and he gazed at them ;
they were questioning each other with their eyes. What was
it? "Pombe," was my reply. "Pombe kisungu." (The
white man's pombe.)

" Surely this is also wonderful, as all things belonging to
him are," said the chief.

"Wonderful," they echoed ; and then all burst into another
series of cachinnations, ear-splitting, almost.

Smelling at the ammonia bottle was a thing all must have ;
but some were fearful, owing to the effects produced on each
man's eyes, and the facial contortions which followed the
olfactory effort. The chief smelt three or four times, after
which he declared his headache vanished, and that I must be
a great and good white man. Suffice it, that I made myself
so popular with Ma-manyara and his people, that they will
not forget me in a hurry.

Leaving kind and hospitable Ma-manyara, after a four hour's
inarch, we came to the banks of the Gombe Nullah, not the
one which Burton and Speke have described, for the Gombe
which I mean is about one hundred and twenty-five miles
south of the Northern Gombe. The glorious park land
spreading out north and south of the Southern Gombe is a
hunter's paradise. It is full of game of all kinds herds of
buffalo, giraffe, zebra, pallah, water buck, springbok, gems-
bok, blackbuck, and kudu, besides several eland, warthog, or
wild boar, and hundreds of the smaller antelope. We saw all
these in one day, and at night heard the lions roar, and the
low of the hippopotamus.

I halted here three days to shoot, and there is no occasion
to boast of what I shot, considering the myriads of game I
saw at every step I took. Not half the animals shot here by
myself and men were made use of. Two buffaloes and one
kudu were brought to camp the first day, besides a wild boar,

III -\TI\I; i:rn U.OKS.


which my mess finished up in one night. My boy gun-bear-
ers sat up the whole night eating boar meat, and until I went
to sleep, I could hear the buffalo meat sizzing over the fire,
as the Islamized soldiers prepared it for the road.

The second day of the halt, I took the Winchester rifle, or
the fifteen shooter, to prey on the populous plain, but I only
bagged a tiny blue buck by shooting it through the head. I
had expected great things of this rifle, and am sorry I was
disappointed. The Winchester rifle cartridges might as well
have been filled up with sawdust, as with the powder the
New York Ammunition Company put in them. Only two
out of the ten would fire, which so spoiled my aim that noth-
ing could be done with the rifle. The cartridges of all the
English rifles always went off, and I commend Eley, of Lon-
don, to everybody in need of cartridges to explode.

The third day, arming myself with a double-barreled English
smooth-bore, I reaped a bountiful harvest of meat, and having
marched over a larger space, saw a much larger variety of
game than on any preceding day. The Gombe Nullah, dur-
ing the dry season, is but a system of long, narrow pools, full
of crocodiles and hippopotami. In the wet season, it over-
flows its banks, and is a swift, broad stream, emptying into
the Malagarazi, thence into the Lake Tanganyika.

From Manyara to Marefu, in Ukonongo, are five days'
marches. It is an uninhabited forest now, and is about eighty
miles in length. Clumps of forest, and dense islets of jungle
dot plains, which separate the forests proper. It is monoto-
nous, owing to the sameness of the scenes. And throughout
this length of eighty miles, there is nothing to catch a man's
eye in search of the picturesque or novel, save the Gombe's
pools, with their amphibious inhabitants, and the variety of
noble game which inhabit the forests and plain.

A traveling band of Wakonongo, bound to Ukonongo from
Manyara, prayed to have our escort, which was readily granted.
They were famous foresters, who knew the various fruits fit
to eat ; who knew the cry of the honey bird, and could follow
it to the treasure of honey which it wished to show its human


friends. It is a pretty bird, not much, larger than a wren, and,
" tweet-tweet," it immediately cries when it sees a human
being. It becomes very busy all at once, hops and skips, and
Hies from branch to branch with marvelous celerity. The
traveler lifts up his eyes, beholds the tiny little bird, hopping
about, and hears its sweet call " tweet-tweet-tweet." If he
is a "Wakonongo he follows it. Away flies the bird on to
another tree, springs to another branch nearer to the lagging
man, as if to say, " Shall I, must I come and fetch you ?" but
assured by his advance, is away again to another tree, coquets
about, and tweets his call rapidly ; sometimes more earnest
and loud, as if chiding him for being so slow ; then off again,
until at last the treasure is found and secured. And as he is
a very busy little bird, while the man secures his treasure of
honey, he plumes himself, ready for another flight, and to
discover another treasure. Every evening the "Wakonongo
brought us stores of beautiful red and white honey, which is
only to be secured in the dry season. Over pancakes and
fritters the honey is very excellent ; bat it is apt to disturb
the stomach ; I seldom rejoiced in its sweetness, without suf-
fering some indisposition afterwards.

As we were leaving the banks of the Gombe at one time,
near a desolate looking place, fit scene for a tragedy, occurred
an incident which I shall not readily forget. I had given
three days' rest to the soldiers, and their cloth-loads were fur-
nished with bountiful supplies of meat, which told how well
they had enjoyed themselves during the halt ; but the guide,
a stubborn fellow, one inclined to be impertinent whenever
he had the chance, wished for another day's hunting. He
selected Bombay as his mouth piece, and I scolded Bombay
for being the bearer of such an unreasonable demand, when
he knew very well I could not possibly allow it, after halting
already three days. Bombay became sulky, said it was not
his fault, and that he could do nothing more than come and
tell me, which I denied in toto, and said to him that he could
have done much, very much more, and better, by telling the
guide that another day's halt was impossible ; that we had


not come to hunt, but to march and find the white man, Liv-
ingstone ; that if he had spoken to the guide against it, as it
was his duty, he being captain, instead of accepting the task
of conveying unpleasant news to me, it would have been much

I ordered the horn to sound, and the expedition had gone
but three miles, when I found they had come to a dead stand.
As I was walking up to see what was the matter, I saw the
guide and his brother sitting on an ant-hill, apart from the
other people, fingering their guns in what appeared to me a
most suspicious manner. Calling Selim, I took the double-
barreled smooth-bore, and slipped in two charges of buck-
shot, and then walked on to my people, keeping an eye, how-
ever, upon the guide and his brother. I asked Bombay to
give me an explanation of the stoppage. He would not
answer, though he mumbled something sullenly, which was
unintelligible to me.

I looked to the other people, and perceived that they acted
in an irresolute manner, as if they feared to take my part, or
were of the same mind as the party on the ant-hill. I was
but thirty paces from the guide, and throwing the barrel of
the gun into the hollow of my left hand, I presented it
cocked at the guide, and called out to him, if he did not come
to me at once I would shoot him, giving him and his com-
panion to understand that I had twenty-four small bullets in
the gun, and that I could blow them to pieces.

In a very reluctant manner they advanced toward me.
When they were sufficiently near, I ordered them to halt ;
but the guide, as he did so, brought his gun to the present,
with his finger on the trigger, and, with a treacherous and
cunning smile which I perfectly understood, he asked what I
wanted of him.

His companion, while he was speaking, was sidling to my
rear, and was imprudently engaged in filling the pan of his
musket with powder ; but a threat to finish him if he did not
go back to his companion, and there stand until I gave him
permission to move, compelled this villainous Thersites to


execute the " right about " with a promptitude which earned
commendation from me.

Then, facing my Ajax of a guide with my gun, I next
requested him to lower his gun, if he did not wish to receive
the contents of mine in his head ; and I do not know but
what the terrible catastrophe warranted by stern necessity
had occurred then and there, if Mabouki (" bull-headed "
Mabouki, but my faithful porter and faithful soldier), had
not dashed the man's gun aside, asking him how he dared
level his gun at his master, and then thrown himself at my
feet, praying me to forgive him. Mabouki's action and sub-
sequent conduct somewhat disconcerted myself, as well as
the murderous-looking guide, but I felt thankful that I had
been spared shedding blood, though there was great provo-

Few cases of homicide could have been more justified
than this, and I felt certain that this man had been seduc-
ing my soldiers from their duties to me, and was the cause,
principally, of Bombay remaining in the background during
this interesting episode of a march through the wilderness,
instead of acting the part which Mabouki so readily undertook
to do.

When Mabouki's prayer for forgiveness Was seconded by
that of the principal culprit, that I would overlook his act, I
was enabled to act as became a prudent commander, though
I felt some remorse that I had not availed myself of the
opportunity to punish the guide and his companion as they
eminently deserved. But perhaps had I proceeded to extrem-
ities, my people fickle enough at all times would have
taken the act as justifying them for deserting in a body, and
the search after Livingstone had ended there and then, which
would have been as unwelcome to the Herald, as unhappy to

However, as Bombay could not bend himself to ask for-
giveness, I came to the conclusion that it were best he should
be made to feel the penalty for stirring dissensions in the
expedition, and be brought to look with a more amiable face


upon the scheme of proceeding to Ujiji, through Ukonongo
and Ukawendi, and I at once proceeded about it with such
vigor, that Bombay's back will for as long a time bear traces
of the punishment which I administered to him, as his front
teeth do of that which Speke rightfully bestowed on him
some eleven years ago. And here I may as well interpolate

Online LibraryJosiah TylerLivingstone lost and found → online text (page 30 of 51)