Judith Cohen Montefiore.

The Jewish Manual Practical Information in Jewish and Modern Cookery with a Collection of Valuable Recipes & Hints Relating to the Toilette online

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* * * * *

SPONGE CAKES.

Mix six eggs, half the whites, half a pound of lump sugar, half a
pound of flour, and a quarter of a pint of water, which should be
strongly flavoured by lemon peel having been in it for some hours;
the sugar and water should boil up together, and poured over the eggs
after they have been well whisked, which must be continued while the
liquid is being poured over them, and until they become quite thick
and white, then stir in the flour, which must be warm and dry. Pour
the mixture into a couple of cake tins, and bake in a gentle oven.

* * * * *

A NICE BREAKFAST CAKE.

Make a paste of half a pound of flour, one ounce of butter, a very
little salt, two eggs, and a table-spoonful of milk, roll it out, but
first set it to rise before the fire; cut it into cakes the size of
small cheese plates, sprinkle with flour, and bake on a tin in a brisk
oven, or they may be fried in a clean frying pan; they should be cut
in half, buttered hot, and served quickly.

* * * * *

ICING FOR CAKES.

Whisk half a pound of sifted white sugar, with one wine glass of
orange flower-water, and the whites of two eggs, well beaten and
strained; it must be whisked until it is quite thick and white; and
when the cake is almost cold, dip a soft camel's hair brush into it,
and cover the cake well, and set it in a cool oven to harden.

* * * * *

TO CLARIFY SUGAR.

Take the proportion of one pound of sugar to half a pint of water,
with the whites of a couple of eggs; boil it up twice, then set it by
for the impurities to rise to the top, and skim it carefully.




CHAPTER VIII.


Preserving and Bottling.

Attention and a little practice will ensure excellence in such
preserves as are in general use in private families; and it will
always be found a more economical plan to purchase the more rare and
uncommon articles of preserved fruits than to have them made at home.

The more sugar that is added to fruit the less boiling it requires.

If jellies be over-boiled, much of the sugar will become candied, and
leave the jelly thin.

Every thing used for the purpose of preserving should be clean and
very dry, particularly bottles for bottled fruit.

Fruit should boil rapidly _before_ the sugar is added, and quietly
afterwards - when preserves seem likely to become mouldy, it is
generally a sign they have not been sufficiently boiled, and it will
be requisite to boil them up again - fruit for bottling should not be
too ripe, and should be perfectly fresh; there are various methods
adopted by different cooks: the fruit may be placed in the bottles,
and set in a moderate oven until considerably shrunken, when the
bottles should be removed and closely corked; or the bottles may be
set in a pan with cold water up to the necks, placed over the fire;
when the fruit begins to sink remove them, and when cold fill up each
bottle with cold spring water, cork the bottles, and lay them on their
sides in a dry place.

To bottle red currants - pick them carefully from the stalk, and add,
as the currants are put in, sifted white sugar; let the bottles
be well filled and rosin the corks, and keep them with their necks
downwards.

* * * * *

BRANDIED CHERRIES.

Put into a large wide mouthed bottle very ripe black cherries, add to
them two pounds of loaf sugar, a quart of brandy, and a few cloves,
then bruise a few more cherries, and simmer with sugar, strain and add
the juice to the cherries in the bottle, cork closely, and keep in a
warm dry place.

* * * * *

QUINCE MARMALADE.

Peel, cut into quarters, and core two pounds of sharp apples, and the
same quantity of quinces; put them into a jar, with one pound of white
sugar powdered and sprinkled over them; cover them with half a pint
of water, and put in also a little bruised cochineal tied in a muslin.
Set them in a slack oven till tender, take out the cochineal, and pulp
the fruit to a marmalade.

Some cooks prefer boiling the sugar and water first and scalding the
fruit till tender, and then adding them to the syrup.

* * * * *

DAMSON MARMALADE.

Is made in the same manner as quince, as also apricot marmalade, which
is very fine; the fruit must be stoned, and some of the kernels put in
with the fruit, which are peeled, and apricots are cut in pieces; they
should be carefully pulped through a clean sieve.

* * * * *

PRESERVED APRICOTS.

Halve and pare ripe apricots, or if not quite ripe, boil them till the
skin can easily be removed. Lay them in a dish hollow downwards,
sift over them their own weight of white sugar, let them lay for some
hours, then put the fruit, with the sugar and juice into a preserving
pan, and simmer till the fruit is clear, take it out, put it carefully
into pots, and pour over the syrup.

This receipt will serve as a guide for preserved nectarines, peaches,
plums, gages, &c. A few of the kernels should always be put in with
the fruit, as they improve the flavor of the preserve.

* * * * *

STRAWBERRIES PRESERVED WHOLE.

Weigh an equal quantity of fruit and white sugar powdered, sift all
the sugar over the fruit, so that half of it shall equally be covered,
let it lay till the next day, when boil the remainder with red currant
juice, in which simmer the strawberries until the jelly hangs about
them. Put the strawberries into pots, taking care not to break them,
and pour over the syrup.

This receipt will serve for raspberries and cherries, which make a
fine preserve.

* * * * *

STRAWBERRY JAM.

Bruise gently, with the back of a wooden spoon, six pounds of fine
fresh fruit, and boil them with very little water for twenty minutes,
stirring until the fruit and juice are well mixed; then put in
powdered loaf sugar of equal weight to the fruit, and simmer half an
hour longer. If the preserve is not required to be very rich, half the
weight of sugar in proportion to the quantity of fruit may be used;
but more boiling will be requisite. By this recipe also are made
raspberry, currant, gooseberry, apricot, and other jams.

* * * * *

RED CURRANT JELLY.

Strip carefully from the stems some quite ripe currants, put them into
a preserving pan, stir them gently over a clear fire until the juice
flows freely from them, then squeeze the currants and strain the juice
through a folded muslin or jelly bag; pour it into a preserving pan,
adding, as it boils, white sugar, in the proportion of one pound of
sugar to one pint of juice.

If made with less sugar, more boiling will be required, by which much
juice and flavour are lost. A little dissolved isinglass is used by
confectioners, but it is much better without. Jams and jellies should
be poured into pots when in a boiling state.

Jellies should be continually skimmed till the scum ceases to rise,
so that they may be clear and fine. White currant jelly and black are
made in the same manner as red. By this receipt can be made raspberry
jelly, strawberry jelly, and all other kinds.

* * * * *

APPLE JELLY.

Pare, core, and cut small any kind of fine baking apples - say six
pounds in weight; put them in a preserving pan with one quart of
water; boil gently till the apples are very soft and broken, then pass
the juice through a jelly bag; when, to each pint, add half a pound of
loaf sugar, set it on the fire to boil twenty minutes, skimming it as
the scum rises; it must not be over boiled, or the colour will be too
dark.

* * * * *

PEAR-SYRUP OR JELLY.

This preparation, although little known in England, forms an important
article of economy in many parts of the Continent. The pears are first
heated in a saucepan over the fire until the pulp, skins, &c., have
separated from the juice, which is then strained, and boiled with
coarse brown sugar to the thickness of treacle; but it has a far
more agreeable flavour. It is cheaper than butter or treacle, and is
excellent spread upon bread for children.

* * * * *

PLUM JAM.

This is a useful and cheap preserve. Choose the large long black plum;
to each gallon of which add three pounds of good moist sugar; bake
them till they begin to crack, when, put them in pots, of a size for
once using, as the air is apt to spoil the jam.




CHAPTER IX.


Pickling.

The best vinegar should always be used for pickling; in all cases it
should be boiled and strained.

The articles to be pickled should first be parboiled or soaked in
brine, which should have about six ounces of salt to one quart of
water.

The spices used for pickling are whole pepper, long peppers, allspice,
mace, mustard-seed, and ginger, the last being first bruised.

The following is a good proportion of spice: to one quart of vinegar
put half an ounce of ginger, the same quantity of whole-pepper and
allspice, and one ounce of mustard-seed; four shalots, and one clove
of garlic.

Pickles should be kept secure from the air, or they soon become
soft; the least quantity of water, or a wet spoon, put into a jar of
pickles, will spoil the contents.

* * * * *

TO PICKLE GHERKINS AND FRENCH BEANS.

These are, of all vegetables, the most difficult to pickle, so that
their green colour and freshness may be preserved. Choose some fine
fresh gherkins, and set them to soak in brine for a week; then drain
them, and pour over boiling vinegar, prepared with the usual spices,
first having covered them with fresh vine leaves. If they do not
appear to be of a fine green, pour off the vinegar, boil it up again,
cover the gherkins with fresh green vine leaves, and pour over the
vinegar again. French beans are pickled exactly the same.

* * * * *

TO PICKLE CAULIFLOWERS.

Remove the stalks and leaves, break the flower into pieces, parboil
them in brine, then drain them, and lay them in a jar, and pour over
boiling spiced vinegar.

* * * * *

TO PICKLE MELON MANGOES.

Cut the melons in half, remove the pulpy part and the seeds, soak
the halves for a week in strong brine, then fill them with the
usual spices, mustard-seed and garlic, and tie them together with
packthread; put them in jars, and pour over boiling spiced vinegar.
Large cucumbers may be pickled in the same way.

* * * * *

PICCALILI.

Pickle gherkins, French beans, and cauliflower, separately, as already
directed; the other vegetables used are carrots, onions, capsicums,
white cabbage, celery, and, indeed almost any kind may be put into
this pickle, except walnuts and red cabbage. They must be cut in small
pieces, and soaked in brine, the carrots only, requiring to be boiled
in it to make them tender; then prepare a liquor as follows: into
half a gallon of vinegar put two ounces of ginger, one of whole black
pepper, one of whole allspice, and one of bruised chillies, three
ounces of shalots, and one ounce of garlic; boil together nearly
twenty minutes; mix a little of it in a basin, with two ounces of
flour of mustard and one ounce of turmeric, and stir it in gradually
with the rest; then pour the liquor over the vegetables.

* * * * *

TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS.

Choose small button mushrooms, clean and wipe them, and throw them
into cold water, then put into a stewpan with a little salt, and cover
them with distilled vinegar, and simmer a few minutes. Put them in
bottles with a couple of blades or so of mace, and when cold, cork
them closely.

* * * * *

TO PICKLE ONIONS.

Choose all of a size and soak in boiling brine, when cold, drain them
and put them in bottles, and fill up with hot distilled vinegar; if
they are to be _white_, use white wine vinegar; if they are to be
_brown_, use the best distilled vinegar, adding, in both cases, a
little mace, ginger, and whole pepper.

* * * * *

TO PICKLE WHITE AND RED CABBAGE.

Take off the outside leaves, cut out the stalk, and shred the cabbage
into a cullender, sprinkle with salt, let it remain for twenty-four
hours, then drain it. Put it into jars, and fill up with boiling
vinegar, prepared with the usual spices; if the cabbage is red, a
little cochineal powdered, or a slice or two of beet-root is necessary
to make the pickle a fine colour; if it is white cabbage, add instead,
a little turmeric powder.

* * * * *

TO PICKLE WALNUTS.

Soak in brine for a week, prick them, and simmer in brine, then let
them lay on a sieve to drain, and to turn black, after which place
them in jars, and pour over boiling spiced vinegar.

* * * * *

AN OLD WAY OF PICKLING CUCUMBERS.

Cut the cucumbers in small pieces, length ways, with the peel left
on; lay them in salt for twenty-four hours, then dry the pieces with
a cloth, lay them in a deep dish, and pour over the following mixture:
some vinegar boiled with cayenne pepper, whole ginger, a little
whole pepper, and mustard seed, a few West India pickles are by some
considered an improvement. This mixture should stand till nearly cold
before covering the cucumbers, which should then be bottled. This
pickle is fit for eating a few days after it is made, and will also
keep good in a dry place as long as may be required.




CHAPTER X.


Receipts for Invalids.

BEEF TEA.

Cut one pound of fleshy beef in dice, or thin slices, simmer for a
short time without water, to extract the juices, then add, by degrees,
one quart of water, a little salt, a piece of lemon peel, and a
sprig of parsley, are the only necessary seasonings; if the broth is
required to be stronger put less water.

* * * * *

CHICKEN PANADA.

Boil a chicken till rather more than half done in a quart of water,
take of the skin, cut off the white parts when cold, and pound it to
a paste in a mortar, with a small quantity of the liquor it was boiled
in, season with salt, a little nutmeg, and the least piece of lemon
peel; boil it gently, and make it with the liquor in which the fowl
has been boiled of the required consistency. It should be rather
thicker than cream.

* * * * *

CHICKEN BROTH.

After the white parts have been removed for the panada, return the
rest of the chicken to the saucepan, with the liquid, add one blade
of mace, one slice only of onion, a little salt, and a piece of lemon
peel; carefully remove every particle of fat. Vermicelli is very well
adapted for this broth.

* * * * *

RESTORATIVE JELLIES.

There are various kinds of simple restorative jellies suited to an
invalid, among the best are the following: -

* * * * *

HARTSHORN JELLY.

Boil half a pound of hartshorn shavings in two quarts of water over a
gentle fire until it becomes thick enough to hang about a spoon, then
strain it into a clean saucepan and add half a pint of sherry wine,
and a quarter of a pound of white sugar, clear it by stirring in the
whites of a couple of eggs, whisked to a froth; boil it for about four
or five minutes, add the juice of three lemons, and stir all together,
when it is well curdled, strain it and pour into the mould, if the
color is required to be deeper than the wine will make it, a little
saffron may be boiled in it.

* * * * *

BARLEY JELLY.

Boil in an iron saucepan, one tea-cup full of pearl barley, with one
quart of cold water, pour off the water when it boils, and add another
quart, let it simmer very gently for three hours over or near a slow
fire, stirring it frequently with a wooden spoon, strain it, and
sweeten with white sugar, add the juice of a lemon, a little white
wine, and a quarter of an ounce of isinglass dissolved in a little
water, and pour it into a mould. This is a very nourishing jelly.

* * * * *

CAUDLE.

Make a fine smooth gruel of grits, with a few spices boiled in it,
strain it carefully and warm as required, adding white wine and a
little brandy, nutmeg, lemon peel, and sugar, according to taste, some
persons put the yolk of an egg.

* * * * *

RICE CAUDLE.

Boil half a pint of milk, add a spoonful of ground rice mixed with a
little milk till quite smooth, stir it into the boiling milk, let
it simmer till it thickens, carefully straining it, and sweeten with
white sugar.

* * * * *

BARLEY MILK.

Boil half a pound of pearl barley in one quart of new milk, taking
care to parboil it first in water, which must be poured off, sweeten
with white sugar. This is better made with pearl barley than the
prepared barley.

* * * * *

RESTORATIVE MILK.

Boil a quarter of an ounce of isinglass in a pint of new milk till
reduced to half, and sweeten with sugar candy.

* * * * *

MILK PORRIDGE.

Make a fine gruel with new milk without adding any water, strain
it when sufficiently thick, and sweeten with white sugar. This is
extremely nutritive and fattening.

* * * * *

WINE WHEY.

Set on the fire in a saucepan a pint of milk, when it boils, pour in
as much white wine as will turn it into curds, boil it up, let the
curds settle, strain off, and add a little boiling water, and sweeten
to taste.

* * * * *

TAMARIND WHEY.

Boil three ounces of tamarinds in two pints of milk, strain off the
curds, and let it cool. This is a very refreshing drink.

* * * * *

PLAIN WHEY.

Put into boiling milk as much lemon juice or vinegar as will turn it,
and make the milk clear, strain, add hot water, and sweeten.

* * * * *

ORGEAT.

Beat three ounces of almonds with a table-spoonful of orange-flour
water, and one bitter almond; then pour one pint of new milk, and one
pint of water to the paste, and sweeten with sifted white sugar; half
an ounce of gum-arabic is a good addition for those who have a tender
chest.

* * * * *

IRISH MOSS.

Boil half an ounce of carrageen or Irish moss, in a pint and a half
of water or milk till it is reduced to a pint; it is a most excellent
drink for delicate persons or weakly children.

* * * * *

A FINE SOFT DRINK FOR A COUGH.

Add to a quarter of a pint of new milk warmed, a beaten new laid egg,
with a spoonful of capillaire, and the same of rose water.

* * * * *

A REFRESHING DRINK.

Cut four large apples in slices, and pour over a quart of boiling
water, let them stand till cold, strain the liquor, and sweeten with
white sugar; a little lemon peel put with the apples improves the
flavour.

* * * * *

A VERY FINE EMMOLIENT DRINK.

Wash and rinse extremely well one ounce of pearl barley, then put to
it one ounce of sweet almonds beaten fine, and a piece of lemon
peel, boil together till the liquor is of the thickness of cream and
perfectly smooth, then put in a little syrup of lemon and capillaire.

* * * * *

A COOLING DRINK IN FEVER.

Put a little tea-sage, and a couple of sprigs of balm into a jug, with
a lemon thinly sliced, and the peel cut into strips, pour over a quart
of boiling water, sweeten and let it cool.




APPENDIX.


FRENCH METHOD OF MAKING COFFEE.

Take in the proportion of one ounce of the berries to half a pint of
water, and grind them at the instant of using them. Put the powder
into a coffee biggin, press it down closely, and pour over a little
water sufficient to moisten it, and then add the remainder by degrees;
the water must be perfectly boiling all the time; let it run quite
through before the top of the percolator is taken off, it must be
served with an equal quantity of boiling milk. Coffee made in this
manner is much clearer and better flavored than when boiled, and it is
a much more economical method than boiling it.

* * * * *

A FRENCH RECEIPT FOR MAKING CHOCOLATE.

Take one ounce of chocolate, cut it in small pieces, and boil it about
six or seven minutes with a small teacup full of water; stir it till
smooth, then add nearly a pint of good milk, give it another boil,
stirring or milling it well, and serve directly. If required very
thick, a larger proportion of chocolate must be used.

* * * * *

EGG WINE.

Beat a fresh egg, and add it to a tumbler of white wine and water,
sweetened and spiced; set it on the fire, stir it gently one way until
it thickens; this, with toast, forms a light nutritive supper.

* * * * *

MULLED WINE.

Boil a little spice, cinnamon, ginger, and cloves, in water, till the
flavor is gained, then add wine, as much as may be approved, sugar and
nutmeg; a strip or two of orange rind cut thin will be found a great
improvement.

* * * * *

TO MAKE PUNCH.

To make one quart, provide two fine fresh lemons, and rub off the
outer peel upon a few lumps of sugar; put the sugar into a bowl with
four ounces of powdered sugar, upon which press the juice of the
lemons, and pour over one pint and a half of very hot water that
_has not boiled_, then add a quarter of a pint of rum, and the same
quantity of brandy; stir well together and strain it, and let it stand
a few minutes before it is drank.

Whiskey punch is made after the same method; the juice and thin peel
of a Seville orange add variety of flavor to punch, particularly of
whiskey punch.

* * * * *

MILK PUNCH.

Put into a quart of new milk the thinly pared rind of a lemon, and
four ounces of lump sugar; let it boil slowly, remove the peel, and
stir in the yolks of two eggs, previously mixed with a little cold
milk; add by degrees a tea-cup full of rum, the same of brandy;
mill the punch to a fine froth, and serve immediately in quite warm
glasses. The punch must not be allowed to boil after the eggs have
been added.

* * * * *

A FRENCH PLUM PIE.

Stew one pound of fine dried French plums until tender, in water,
rather more than enough to cover, with one glass of port wine, and
four ounces of white sugar, which must however not be added until
the plums are quite tender, then pour them with the liquor into a
pie-dish, and cover with a rich puff paste, and bake.

* * * * *

ROASTED CHESTNUTS FOR DESSERTS.

Chestnuts are so frequently sent to table uneatable, that we will
give the French receipt for them. They should be first boiled for five
minutes, and then finish them in a pan over the fire; they will after
the boiling require exactly fifteen minutes roasting; the skin must be
slightly cut before they are cooked.

* * * * *

TO ROAST PARTRIDGES AND PHEASANTS.

They may be either _piqué_ or not; partridges require roasting rather
more than half an hour, pheasants three-quarters, if small, otherwise
an hour; they are served with bread sauce.

Partridges may be stewed as pigeons.

* * * * *

TO ROAST VENISON.

Wipe the venison dry, sprinkle with salt, and cover with writing paper
rubbed with clarified fat; cover this with a thick paste made of flour
and water, round which, tie with packthread white kitchen paper, so as
to prevent the paste coming off; set the venison before a strong
fire, and baste it directly and continue until it is nearly done, then
remove the paper, paste, &c.; draw the venison nearer the fire, dredge
it with flour, and continue basting; it should only take a light
brown, and should be rather under than over-done; a large haunch
requires from three to four hours roasting, a small one not above
three. Serve with the knuckle, garnished with a fringe of white paper,
and with gravy and red currant jelly, either cold or melted, in port
wine, and served hot.

* * * * *

A VENISON PASTY.

Having baked or boiled two hours in broth, with a little seasoning,


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Online LibraryJudith Cohen MontefioreThe Jewish Manual Practical Information in Jewish and Modern Cookery with a Collection of Valuable Recipes & Hints Relating to the Toilette → online text (page 8 of 10)