Lucius L. (Lucius Lee) Hubbard.

Summer vacations at Moosehead Lake and vicinity. A practical guide-book for tourists: describing routes for the canoe-man over the principal waters of northern Maine, with hints to campers, and estimates of expense for tours online

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Online LibraryLucius L. (Lucius Lee) HubbardSummer vacations at Moosehead Lake and vicinity. A practical guide-book for tourists: describing routes for the canoe-man over the principal waters of northern Maine, with hints to campers, and estimates of expense for tours → online text (page 1 of 10)
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.M8 H74



1880



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS




00005120267


















"^0^











ADVERTISEMENTS.



The author respectfully calls the attention of his
readers to the various advertisements which make a part
of this volume. As far as he is aware, the statements
in them are authentic and reliable ; and containing, as
they do, a great deal of important information, which
from its ephemeral character could not well be incor-
porated in the text, they are appended as indispensable
helps to the traveller and tourist.




MT. KINEO FROM KINEO COVE.



SUMMER VACATIONS



AT



MOOSEHEAD LAKE

AND VICINITY.
% Practical (^uitie-Book for Courists :

DESCRIBING ROUTES FOR THE CANOE-MAN OVER THE PRINCIPAL

WATERS OF NORTHERN MAINE, WITH HINTS TO CAMPERS,

AND ESTIMATES OF EXPENSE FOR TOURS.



Illiistraled 7vUh Views of Penobscot and Kennebec Scenery, and

accompanied by a large Map of the Headwaters of the

Penobscot^ Kennebec^ and St. John Rivers.



By LUCIUS L. HUBBARD.






BOST(

A. WILLIAMS AND COMPANY.
1880.



vr






Copy rights 1880,
By Lucius L. Hubbard.




Illustrations by Connelly & Co., Boeton.






<r



Co



<fmnbs mxb Companions



WHO HAVE SHARED WITH HIM THE PLEASURES OF CAMPING OUT
IN THE WOODS OF MAINE,

THE AUTHOR
AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATES THIS LITTLE VOLUME,

IN THE EARNEST HOPE THAT, EVEN IF IT SHOULD CONTAIN

NOTHING NEW TO THEM, IT WILL AT LEAST SERVE

TO RECALL BRIGHT MEMORIES OF DAYS

THAT ARE PAST.



INTRODUCTION.



To the care-worn business man and overworked stu-
dent, no relaxation from the constant wear of their
respective calHngs is so grateful as that which comes
while camping in the woods. " The accompaniments
of life are removed, and selfishness, ambition, and care
have here no place ; a man is most truly thrown upon
his own resources. To be alone with nature, without
book, without work, without care, without the slightest
hindrance to wandering at your own sweet will, with a
heart which beats ' true to the kindred points of heaven
and home,' and to be for this purpose in the very heart
of the Moosehead forests, is more than all the trout-
fishing, and almost the rival of the matchless views
which meet the eye."* In the wild woods life is
regenerated, and even after two weeks of camping out
and canoeing one issues forth with renewed strength
for the work of the coming year. Rest and recreation
are an absolute necessity. A celebrated jurist of this
country, no longer hving, used to say he could do a
year's work in ten months, but not in twelve.

*Rev. Julius H. Ward, in Harper's Magazine, August, 1875.



vi INTRODUCTION.

It then becomes a practical question, how deep into
the forests must one penetrate with his birch-canoe to
find this seclusion and relaxation, and what are the
means of attaining them ?

The advantage to canoe-men of having some definite
and tangible information concerning the different lakes
and water-courses over which their routes may take
them, is too well known by those persons who have
camped out in the woods of Maine to need proof. It
often happens that the tourist comes to a part of a
stream where the difficulty of further progress seems
insurmountable. After successful efforts made to over-
come the obstacles which first appeared, others take
their place, and the chain seems unending. The luck-
less canoe-man in ignorance turns back disappomted
and seeks an easier route elsewhere, when, if he had
but known it, smooth water and a picturesque and
attractive course lay before him, within easy reach.

With a knowledge of this need, gained by expenence,
the writer has prepared the following pages for the
benefit of habitues of Moosehead Lake, and of others
who may have in view a visit to some of the wilder
localities in its vicinity. The brevity necessarily re-
quired in a pocket guide-book has caused him to set
forth facts without any attempt at embelhshment, —
plain, statistical facts, whose only function is to be use-
ful The book, aside from its illustrations, is not meant
to be entertaining, and they who seek in its pages any
elaborate or detailed descriptions of scenery will be
disappointed.



INTRODUCTION. Vil

That part of the work devoted to camping is also
merely an epitome. Many topics touched upon had
to be passed over briefly, and left perhaps incomplete,
while others of scarcely less importance had to be
omitted altogether. The information and advice actu-
ally given is, moreover, very much condensed, and,
such as it is, the writer offers it to beginners in the
art of camping, as a stepping-stone to a more extended
knowledge, which can best be obtained by experience.

He who goes into the woods to camp for the first
time will be at a loss to understand many of the
phrases in vogue among older campers and guides,
some few of which, on account of their brevity, have
been used in the following pages. The word " pitch "
refers either to the resinous mixture used on canoes, to
a small water-fall, or to the height of a stream. After
a hard rain one may say, " There is a good pitch of
water." " Rips " is a word used of a stretch of water,
which is not long enough nor rough enough to be
called " rapids." To " drop " a canoe over a " pitch "
is to let it float over it, the canoe-man guiding it from
the shore with a setting-pole, and with the " painter,"
or leading-rope.

A " landing " is a term used by lumbermen to de-
note a place cleared of bushes and trees on the bank
of a stream or pond, to which the logs cut in winter
are hauled, in anticipation of the spring floods.

"Logon," probably a derivative of "lagoon," means
a very shallow arm of a stream or pond, where lilies
and grass grow profusely.



viii INTRODUCTION

« Wangen" is a shelter-tent, one might say, made of
bark or boughs, and is perhaps oftenest used by " river-
drivers " in the spring, when engaged in floating or
" driving " logs down the rivers to market.

In the vicinity of Moosehead Lake the expressions
"East Branch," "West Branch," "North Branch"
and " South Branch " refer to the Penobscot River.
Moreover, the North and South Branches are actually
branches of the West Branch.

On the Kennebec "The Forks " means the junction
of that river with Dead River.

The term "navigation" as used in the following
pages refers to canoes, and readers will also note the
difference between the right and left banks of a stream,
and the same terms without the word " bank."

The distances given are only approximate, but are
founded on close observation and studied comparison.
No changes have been made in the text of this,
the second edition, which is published separately
from the map which accompanied the first edition ;
woodcuts have been substituted for photographic
reproductions, and the book is offered to the public
with the wish tliat it may prove a useful and ser-
viceable companion to campers-out in the woods of
Northern Maine.

The author again acknowledges his grateful ap-
preciation to Dr. Elliott Coues, U. S. A., for the use,
kindly and prompdy granted, of his Hygienic Notes,
and to many other obliging persons for timely and
important information and assistance.
Cambridge, June lo, 1880.



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.



PAGE



Mount Kineo from Kineo Cove Frontispiece

Mouth of Spencer Brook i8

Mount Kineo— Pebble Beach 32

Mount Kineo — Table Rock 48

Socatean Falls and Pool 60

Chesuncook Lake 64

Ripogenus Gorge — Looking East 68

Ripogenus Gorge — Looking West 70

Millinokett Lake 76

Moxie Falls 122

MAPS.

Moosehead Lake and Vicinity 38

Caucomgomoc Lake and Vicinity 96



CONTENTS.



PART FIRST.

PAGB

Time of Year i

Number in a Party 2

A Camper's Outfit, — Where and How to Get it . . 3

Camp "Kit" 4

Personal Luggage 7

Provisions 14

Canoes and their Usage 16

Guides 19

Camp-Ground 22

Camp-Fire 24

Cooking 25

Dressing Game 28

Hygienic Notes 29



PART SECOND.

JH000£l)£ati 3Laite anti Emntetfiate Ufcmtts.

Routes from Boston to Moosehead Lake ... 39

Moosehead Lake 44

Mount Kineo 4^



XI 1 CONTENTS.



Cfluts BEgontJ fH0O0e[)cati 3Lake.



PAGE



West Branch of the Penobscot, — Going Down . . 62

Jo Mary and Neighboring Lakes 76

Northwest Carry 'j'j

West Branch of the Penobscot, — Seeboomook Falls 78

West Branch of the Penobscot, — Going Up . . . 79

South Branch of the Penobscot 82

North Branch of the Penobscot 86

St. John Pond and Baker Lake 91

Caucomgomoc Lake 93

Allagash Lake 100

Down the St. John River loi

East Branch of the Penobscot 107

Ebeeme Ponds and Pleasant River 109

Katahdin Iron- Works in

Sebec Lake 112

Mount Katahdin from the East 115

Forks of the Kennebec and Vicinity T17

Moose River above Moose River Village .... 126

Game and Fish of Northern Maine 129

Digest of Game and Fish Laws 132

Tables of Tours for Campers 135

Expense of Tours • 13^

Advertisements 140

Index 141



SUMMER VACATIONS

AT

MOOSEHEAD LAKE.



PART FIRST.
HOW TO CAMP OUT.



TIME OF YEAR.

All seasons have their respective advantages for the
hunter or trapper, whether sportsman or not, according
to the object he has in view. Each has its own disad-
vantages as well, but for general purposes of camping-
out September and October offer the most attractions
and have the fewest drawbacks. Black-flies and mosqui-
toes have then ceased their torments, the weather is apt
to be settled and pleasant, the nights cool, and game is
in its prime, and likely to be found everywhere.

The best fishing is undoubtedly to be had — at least
in places of most frequent resort — in early spring, just
after the ice breaks up in the lakes and streams. The
larger game frequents the feeding-grounds on the banks
of streams, and shores of ponds, and comes down to the
water at night, in the hot weather of midsummer. But
these are the halcyon days of the black-fly and mosquito,
I



2 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY.

the one a constant attendant by day, and the other by
night, both combining to make hfe miserable for the
reckless sportsman. Besides, the days are sweltering
and the nights oppressive.

Midwinter is not without its attraction, — principally
that of novelty for him who ventures into the woods too
far north. He is soon disabused of the fascination
which drew him thither, and learns that it is much more
comfortable to put up at some hotel or cabin at the
outskirts of civilization, and to make hunting excur-
sions on snow-shoes from these, and to fish through the
ice under cover of a warm little fish-house, than to
camp under a shelter tent with the snow four feet deep
around him, and the mercury at twenty-five below zero.

NUMBER IN A PARTY.

The number of persons of which a party should con-
sist will depend more or less on the characteristics of
the individuals and the object in view. Travelling —
especially in the woods — is apt to show up the least
amiable side of one's disposition, and the larger the
party, the more difficult will it be to have united coun-
sels and action. If you are bent on having a jolly time,
and are not particular about getting game and fish, nor
where you go, you can well join a large party ; but
when you go mainly for the enjoyments of hunting and
fishing such as can only be had in the wild woods, go
with one friend, — a tried friend, on whose good sense
and unselfishness you can rely. The next best way,
and you may prefer it, is to go alone, with a trusty and
competent guide. Two men, each with a canoe and



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 3

guide, IS an advantageous combination, for the pairs
can separate for a time, if advisable, and occupy differ-
ent grounds near together. For a short trip two men
and one guide can go in one canoe, but for a trip of
two weeks or more a canoe will only hold two men and
luggage, and will have an ample load at that.



A CAMPER'S OUTFIT, — WHERE AND HOW
TO GET IT.

As Mr. Gould has happily suggested in his interest-
ing book, " How to Camp Out," you should begin to
make preparations for your trip two or three months
before you intend to start. To make small purchases
of useful articles to be taken with you, and to dwell in
anticipation on what is before you, affords almost as
much pleasure as the later enjoyment of the woods.
There is great satisfaction in picturing to yourself what
part this and that article will play in your adventures, or
in what sort of a place, whether lake or brook, moun-
tain or meadow, it will first be called into requisition.
Then, too, if you put off all preparation until the last
moment, you may forget some of the most important
parts of your outfit, — a sme qua non, — and the thought
of what " might have been " will be quite aggravating.
Collect your outfit, piece by piece ; appropriate a closet
or a trunk to its exclusive use, and put the parts of
your collection into it, day by day, keeping a list from
which to check off each item as soon as obtained.
Every time an article suggests itself to you as one that
is likely to be indispensable, get it. Only be careful
to make your load as light as possible. Remember



4 MOOSE HE AD LAKE AMD VICINITY.

that what one may consider a necessity at home may
be regarded as a luxury in the woods, and that to carry
one pound of extra weight fifty miles is equivalent to
carrying fifty pounds one mile.

Get everything you need, in the way of personal lug-
gage, at home. You seldom have time or incHnation
to stop over, by the way, and are not at all sure to find
what you want at the last village on the verge of the
forest. By " personal luggage " the writer means every-
thing exclusive of food, and of the camp "kit," a term
explained below.

It is very convenient, if you mean to use canned
goods in the woods, to have them packed at home, in
a box with rope handles on each end of it, and to take
them with you as luggage.

CAMP "KIT."

Parties who go into camp with guides do not usually
have to provide what is termed the " kit." This in-
cludes, besides canoe and tent, axes, cooking utensils,
and the like, — articles which nearly all guides own in
quantities sufiicient for parties of two or three.

For persons who may be about to go into camp
without guides, the following list of articles will be
found useful, if not indispensable : —

Party of Two. Party of Four.

Axe, one ; 35lbs two.

Baker, small medium.

Breadpan ; 2 qts 3 qts.

Butter-box, wooden

Can-opener

Coffee-pot ; I qt 2 qts.



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 5

Forks, three five.

Firkins, or bags, for jjrovisions ....

Frying-pans, two, medium two, large.

Kettle, iron ; 2 qts 3 qts.

Knives, three five.

Molasses-can ; i gal

Mop for dishes

Pepper-shaker

Pitch dipper, — handle riveted .... two.

Potato bag

Rope for canoe, — " Painter "

Salt-shaker

Sponge for canoe two.

Spoon, one, large

Teaspoons, three six.

Tent (A) 7ft. X 8ft

Tin dippers, four six.

Tin pails ; two, 2 qts three, 3 qts.

Tin plates, four six.

For parties of more than four persons, the capacity
of the pails, pots, and pans will have to be proportion-
ally larger, and the number of the more necessary table-
dishes increased, so that there will be two or three extra
of each kind.

The cost of an outfit for two, such as is given above,
will be about fifteen dollars, exclusive of tent, which may
be bought for ten or twelve dollars.

Of course, persons ca?i get along with fewer things
than those above enumerated. The hunter often goes
into the woods, in midwinter, and his outfit consists of
a thin blanket, an axe, rifle, sheath-knife, frying-pan,
and large tin dipper. With these, a bag of flour, a
piece of pork, and what he shoots, he sustains himself,
and makes no complaint. In like manner, a camper's
" kit " can be crude, or elaborate, to suit his whims or



6 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY.

his pocket ; and he can direct his outlay in such a man-
ner as to undergo a greater or less degree of " roughing
it," — and to his entire satisfaction.

For the benefit of parties who go to Moosehead Lake,
it may be well to say that all of the above articles can
be bought at Greenville, except bags for provisions,
which will have to be brought from home. These should
be strong, made of stout drilling, and of various sizes,
according to the bulk of the articles meant to be car-
ried in them. Moreover, a large canvas bag, or rubber
navy bag, should make part of the kit, to hold the
smaller bags, and keep their contents dry.

It has been, and still is, quite common to carry pro-
visions into the woods in wooden buckets or firkins.
They answer very well for trips where little or no carry-
ing is to be done, but are very much of a nuisance
when the contrary is the case. The principal advan-
tage in having bags is, that, as fast as your food is con-
sumed, the bulk of your luggage decreases, which with
buckets is not appreciable. One bucket, for dishes,
salt and pepper shakers, can-opener, condensed milk,
and other odds and ends, will more than compensate,
in convenience, the trouble of carrying it. Axes and
hatchets should be provided with some sort of cover.
They are then less troublesome and harmful, and can
be thrown into a canoe or on shore without danger,
either of cutting something else, or of being themselves
nicked or dulled. They can also be carried safely in
one's belt, over carries and through the woods.

One or two kettle-holders will prove extremely use-
ful, and easy to carry ; a small whetstone and a crcoked
knife, too, may well be added to the kit.



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 7

An iron bean-pot will be found a great luxury, if it
does not have to be " carried " much. Otherwise take
canned beans.

A farina boiler, which consists of two pails, the smaller
set in the other, serves well to cook oat-meal and mush,
without risk of burning, — either the food or the cook.

A shelter tent is warmer than an A tent, if a fire is
kept blazing before it all night, but it is otherwise less
convenient, especially in stormy weather. ,

PERSONAL LUGGAGE.

The writer first began to camp out ten years ago.
His preparations for his initial trip to the woods were
crude. As beginners, we do not feel the need of many
things, which want of experience, perhaps as much as
lack of means, prevents us from getting ; but after a
series of summers spent in the woods, we learn how we
can, in many ways, add materially to our enjoyment
and comfort, at trifling expense, and with only a slight
addition to the weight of our luggage.

Following is a list of articles the writer deems essen-
tial to a tolerable degree of comfort and ease, while out
for a two weeks' canoeing excursion : — •

One pair stout shoes, well greased.

One pair stout slippers.

One suit, — old, but stout clothes.

One extra pair pantaloons (Scotch goods).

Two woollen shirts with collars.

One change of under-clothes.

Slouch felt hat (gray).

Two or three pairs heavy woollen socks.

Two silk handkerchiefs.



8 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY.

A cardigan jacket (dark gray).

A light rubber coat.

Two rubber blankets, — for each person.

One pair heavy woollen blankets, — for each person.

A blanket strap.

Two carrying straps.

Court and sticking plaster.

Small flask of brandy.

Bottle Jamaica ginger.

Box of grease for boots.

Bottle of mosquito mixture.

Piece of soap in small tin-box.

Sponge, tooth-brush, comb, and two towels.

Camp candlestick and candles.

Two or three haversacks, or a knapsack.

Mosquito net for the head.

A knit cap for sleeping.

Pieces of rope and twine.

Rags, and a small bottle of gun-oil.

Needles, thread, beeswax, and a small awl.

Compass, matches.

Broad belt, with strap for attaching tin cup.

Good sheath-knife.

Cartridge-box (old army cap-box).

Allen, or Winchester, rifle, and from 50 to 100 cartridges.

Cheap fly-rod, four leaders, and a dozen flies.

Six stout hooks.

Reel, and fifty yards oiled-silk line.

Pack of cards — for rainy days.

Pocket-map of region to be visited.

COMMENTS ON THE FOREGOING.

Do not wear boots into the woods. They are cum-
bersome, and sure to get wet, and when in that condi-
tion are very hard to get off and on. A pair of loose-
fitting brogans, such as can be bought for about two
dollars, or an old pair of Waukenphast's shoes, if you



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 9

have them, will be found most comfortable. Shoes should
fit snugly, without pinching. If your feet are going to
be out of order for want of proper covering, you would
better go back home at once. A piece of leather may
prove of service in your " kit." The writer has of late
years found rubber boots, which come up half-way
between knee and hip, almost indispensable where
wading is necessary. However, a pair of stout shoes,
well greased, will answer the purpose, and when you
return to camp with wet feet, the comfort of dry socks
and slippers will be exceedingly grateful. If you take
rubber boots, a change of pantaloons will not be neces-
sary.

An excellent substitute for heavy shoes and slippers
will be found in moccasons, which when new are water-
proof, and fit the foot easily. They are good either in
a canoe, or when on the walk ; an extra sole on the
inside helps to protect the foot from roots and stones.
In this connection, when you dry your shoes or moc-
casons, be careful not to expose them to too great her,c.
Greased leather, or the fatty hide of any animal, will,
when exposed to the sun, or to a hot fire, burn very
quickly, and before one would suspect it. It is a seri-
ous thing to lose one's foot-covering in the woods.

A heavy coat, or overcoat, will be found to be an
incumbrance from its weight, and inconvenient when
paddling. A good cardigan jacket and a thick vest
will be all the extra clothing needed for cold days in
September. The suit one wears should be such as one
does not expect to use again. Scotch goods are pref-
erable, as they dry easily after a wetting. Their color
should be dark gray, if possible, to resemble that of the



10 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY.

trunks of the trees. The wearer will thus be less likely
to attract the notice of game that may come in his
way.

A pair of suspenders is a comfort one should not be
without. It does not matter if they do not look well
over your woollen shirt.

A light rubber coat in the woods is invaluable, and
two or three extra rubber blankets are apt to be quite
serviceable, in more ways than one. Should a shower
overtake you en route, one of them thrown over your
canoe-load protects it thoroughly. In camp two of
them stretched overhead on either side of a horizontal
pole make a good shelter both for your table and lug-
gage, and they also make a warm covering to sleep
under, on cold nights.

A good substitute for tent, and rubber blankets too,
consists in pieces of cotton cloth, 7ft. X 4ft., soaked in
boiled linseed-oil. If made with eyelet-holes in the
margin, they will answer the purpose of a tent, four of
them being laced together in pairs, two side to side,
and these pairs end to end. The two ends thus laced
together are laid on the ridge-pole of the tent, and tri-
angular pieces buttoned on at each end complete the
dwelling.

One pair of stout uncut woollen blankets for each
person is none too many. For cold nights in September
more warmth and comfort can be had by having your
blankets doubled over and sewed up on one end, and
three quarters up the side, like a bag, so that when in it
you have two thicknesses of blanket over and under you,
and your feet cannot become uncovered during sleep.
The top of the blanket can, if necessary, be drawn up



HINTS TO CAMPERS. II

over the head, while that part of the side left unsewed
will furnish a good breathing-place.

Leather carrying-straps consist of a centre piece
about a foot long and two inches wide, firmly sewed,
at either extremity, to slightly tapering end pieces ten
feet long and half an inch wide.

To make a pack, spread out on the ground your
blanket, tent, or whatever you intend to use for the
purpose, and double it over, more or less, to suit the
size of your load. One or two trials will enable you
to judge accurately of the extent of covering needed
for the pack. Lay the strap on the blanket, &c., so
that the centre piece shall be just over the edge of it,
opposite the middle of the side, and the end pieces
shall extend from the same side along the ends of the
blanket, half-way from the middle of it to the ends.
Then fold the ends of the blanket over the strap, let-
ting them meet in the middle, or overlap, if necessary.
The foundation of your pack is now ready. Make a


1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Online LibraryLucius L. (Lucius Lee) HubbardSummer vacations at Moosehead Lake and vicinity. A practical guide-book for tourists: describing routes for the canoe-man over the principal waters of northern Maine, with hints to campers, and estimates of expense for tours → online text (page 1 of 10)