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and now turned Papist.

14th November 1675. Being Sunday, my Lord having
before delivered to me his letter of attorney, keys, seal,
and his Will, we took a solemn leave of one another up-
on the beach, the coaches carrying them into the sea to
the boats, which delivered them to Captain Gunman's
yacht, the ^' Mary. '^ Being under sail, the castle gave them
seventeen guns, which Captain Gunman answered with
eleven. Hence, I went to church, to beg a blessing on
their voyage.

2d December, 1675. Being returned home, I visited
Lady Mordaunt at Parson's Green, my Lord, her son,
being sick. This pious woman delivered to me j^ioo to
bestow as I thought fit for the release of poor prisoners,
and other charitable uses.

2ist December 1675. Visited her Ladyship again,
where I found the Bishop of Winchester, whom I had long
known in France ; he invited me to his house at Chelsea.

23d December, 1675. Lady Sunderland gave me ten
guineas, to bestow in charities.

1675-76 JOHN EVELYN 109

20th February, 1675-76. Dr. Gunning, Bishop of Ely,
preached before the King from St. John xx 21, 22, 23,
chiefly against an anonymous book, called " Naked Truth,'*
a famous and popular treatise against the corruption in
the Clergy, but not sound as to its quotations, supposed
to have been the Bishop of Hereford's and was answered
by Dr. Turner, it endeavoring to prove an equality of
order of Bishop and Presbyter.

27th February, 1676. Dr. Pritchard, Bishop of Glou-
cester, preached at Whitehall, on Isaiah, v. 5, very alle-
gorically, according to his manner, yet very gravely and

29th February, 1676. I dined with Mr. Povey, one of
the Masters of Requests, a nice contriver of all elegancies,
and exceedingly formal. Supped with Sir J. Williamson,
where were of our Society Mr. Robert Boyle, Sir Chris-
topher Wren, Sir William Petty, Dr. Holden, subdean
of his Majesty's Chapel, Sir James Shaen, Dr. Whistler,
and our Secretary, Mr. Oldenburg.

4th March, 1676. Sir Thomas Linch was returned from
his government of Jamaica.

1 6th March, 1676. The Countess of Sunderland and I
went by water to Parson's Green, to visit my Lady Mor-
daunt, and to consult with her about my Lord's monu-
ment. We returned by coach.

19th March, 1676. Dr. Lloyd, late Curate of Deptford,
but now Bishop of Llandaff, preached before the King,
on I Cor, XV. 57, that though sin subjects us to death,
yet through Christ we become his conquerors.

23d March, 1676. To Twickenham Park, Lord Berke-
ley's country seat, to examine how the bailiffs and serv-
ants ordered matters.

24th March, 1676. Dr. Brideoake, Bishop of Chiches-
ter, preached a mean discourse for a Bishop. I also
heard Dr. Fleetwood, Bishop of Worcester, on Matt,
xxvi. 38, of the sorrows of Christ, a deadly sorrow caused
by our sins; he was no great preacher.

30th March, 1676. Dining with my Lady Sunderland,
I saw a fellow swallow a knife, and divers great pebble
stones, which would make a plain rattling one against
another. The knife was in a sheath of horn.

Dr. North, son of my Lord North, preached before
the King, on Isaiah liii. 57, a very young but learned


and excellent person. Note. This was the first time the
Duke appeared no more in chapel, to the infinite grief
and threatened ruin of this poor nation.

2d April, 1676. I had now notice that my dear friend,
Mrs Godolphin, was returning from Paris. On the 6th,
she arrived to my great joy, whom I most heartily wel-

28th April, 1676. My wife entertained her Majesty at
Deptford, for which the Queen gave me thanks in the
withdrawing room at Whitehall.

The University of Oxford presented me with the ^'-Mar-
mora Oxoniensia Ar unde liana ''^ ; the Bishop of Oxford
writing to desire that I would introduce Mr. Prideaux,
the editor ( a young man most learned in antiquities ) to
the Duke of Norfolk, to present another dedicated to his
Grace, which I did, and we dined with the Duke at
Arundel House, and supped at the Bishop of Rochester's
with Isaac Vossius.

7th May, 1676. I spoke to the Duke of York about
my Lord Berkeley's going to Nimeguen. Thence, to the
Queen's Council at Somerset House, about Mrs. Godol-
phin's lease of Spalding, in Lincolnshire.

nth May, 1676. I dined with Mr. Charleton, and went
to see Mr Montague's new palace, near Bloomsbury,
built by Mr. Hooke, of our Society, after the French
manner *

13th May, 1676. Returned home, and found my son
returned from France; praised be God!

22d May, 1676. Trinity Monday. A chaplain of my
Lord Ossory's preached, after which we took barge to
Trinity House in London. Mr. Pepys (Secretary of the
Admiralty) succeeded my Lord as Master.

2d June, 1676. I went with my Lord Chamberlain to
see a garden, at Enfield town; thence, to Mr. Secretary
Coventry's lodge in the Chase. It is a very pretty place,
the house commodious, the gardens handsome, and our
entertainment very free, there being none but my
Lord and myself. That which I most wondered at was,
that, in the compass of twenty-five miles, yet within
fourteen of London, there is not a house, bam, church,
or building, besides three lodges. To this Lodge are
three great ponds, and some few inclosures, the rest a

* Now the British Museum.


solitary desert, yet stored with no less than 3,000 deer.
These are pretty retreats for gentlemen, especially for
those who are studious and lovers of privacy.

We returned in the evening by Hampstead, to see
Lord Wotton's house and garden (Bellsize House), built
with vast expense by Mr. O'Neale, an Irish gentleman
who married Lord Wotton's mother. Lady Stanhope.
The furniture is very particular for Indian cabinets, por-
celain, and other solid and noble movables. The gal-
lery very fine, the gardens very large, but ill kept, yet
woody and chargeable The soil a cold weeping clay,
not answering the expense.

1 2th June, 1676. I went to see Sir Thomas Bond's
new and fine house by Peckham; it is on a flat, but has
a fine garden and prospect through the meadows to

2d July, 1676. Dr. Castillion, Prebend of Canterbury,
preached before the King, on John xv. 22, at Whitehall.'
19th July, 1676. Went to the funeral of Sir William
Sanderson, husband to the Mother of the Maids, and
author of two large but mean histories of King James
and King Charles I. He was buried at Westminster.

ist August, 1676. In the afternoon, after prayers at
St. James's Chapel, was christened a daughter of Dr.
Leake's, the Dukes Chaplain: godmothers were Lady
Mary, daughter of the Duke of York, and the Duchess
of Monmouth: godfather, the Earl of Bath.

15th August, 1676. Came to dine with me my Lord
Halifax, Sir Thomas Meeres, one of the Commissioners
of the Admiralty, Sir John Clayton, Mr. Slingsby, Mr.
Henshaw, and Mr Bridgeman.

25th August, 1676. Dined with Sir John Banks at his
house in Lincoln's Inn Fields, on recommending Mr.
Upman to be tutor to his son going into France. This
Sir John Banks was a merchant of small beginning, but
had amassed ^100,000.

26th August, 1676. I dined at the Admiralty with
Secretary Pepys, and supped at the Lord Chamberlain's.
Here was Captain Baker, who had been lately on the
attempt of the Northwest passage. He reported prodi-
gious depth of ice, blue as a sapphire, and as transparent.
The thick mists were their chief impediment, and cause
of their return.


2d September, 1676. I paid ^^1,700 to the Marquis de
Sissac, which he had lent to my Lord Berkeley, and which
I heard the Marquis lost at play in a night or two.

The Dean of Chichester preached before the King, on
Acts xxiv. 16; and Dr. Crichton preached the second
sermon before him on Psalm xc. 12, of wisely numbering
our days, and well employing our time.

3d September. 1676. Dined at Captain Graham's, where
I became acquainted with Dr. Compton (brother to the
Earl of Northampton), now Bishop of London, and Mr.
North, son to the Lord North, brother to the Lord Chief-
Justice and Clerk of the Closet, a most hopeful young
man. The Bishop had once been a soldier, had also
traveled in Italy, and became a most sober, grave, and ex-
cellent prelate.

6th September, 1676. Supped at the Lord Chamber-
lain's, where also supped the famous beauty and errant
lady, the Duchess of Mazarine (all the world knows her
story), the Duke of Monmouth, Countess of Sussex (both
natural children of the King by the Duchess of Cleve-
land*), and the Countess of Derby, a virtuous lady,
daughter to my best friend, the Earl of Ossory.

loth September, 1676. Dined with me Mr. Flamsted,
the learned astrologer and mathematician, whom his Maj-
esty had established in the new Observatory in Greenwich
Park, furnished with the choicest instruments. An hon-
est, sincere man.

12th September, 1676. To London, to take order about
the building of a house, or rather an apartment, which
had all the conveniences of a house, for my dear friend,
Mr. Godolphin and lady, which I undertook to contrive
and survey, and employ workmen until it should be quite
finished; it being just over against his Majesty's wood-
yard by the Thames side, leading to Scotland Yard.

19th September, 1676. To Lambeth, to that rare mag-

* Evelyn makes a slip here. The Duke of Monmouth's mother was,
it is well known, Lucy Walters, sometimes called Mrs. Barlow, and
heretofore mentioned in the « Diary. » Nor is he more correct as to the
Countess of Sussex. Lady Anne Fitzroy, as she is called in the Peerage
books, was married to Lennard Dacre, Earl of Sussex, by whom she left
a daughter only, who succeeded on her father's death to the Barony of
Dacre. On the other hand, the Duke of Southampton, the Duke of
Grafton, and the Duke of Northumberland, were all of them children
of Charles IL by the Duchess of Cleveland.

1676 JOHN EVELYN 113

azine of marble, to take order for chimney-pieces, etc.,
for Mr. Godolphin's house. The owner of the works had
built for himself a pretty dwelling house ; this Dutchman
had contracted with the Genoese for all their marble.
We also saw the Duke of Buckingham's glasswork, where
they made huge vases of metal as clear, ponderous, and
thick as crystal; also looking-glasses far larger and bet-
ter than any that come from Venice.

9th October, 1676. I went with Mrs. Godolphin and
my wife to Blackwall, to see some Indian curiosities; the
streets being slippery, I fell against a piece of timber
with such violence that I could not speak nor fetch my
breath for some space; being carried into a house and
let blood, I was removed to the water-side and so home,
where, after a day's rest, I recovered. This being one of
my greatest deliverances, the Lord Jesus make me ever
mindful and thankful!

31st October, 1676. Being my birthday, and fifty-six
years old, I spent the morning in devotion and imploring
God's protection, with solemn thanksgiving for all his
signal mercies to me, especially for that escape which
concerned me this month at Blackwall. Dined with Mrs.
Godolphin, and returned home through a prodigious and
dangerous mist.

9th November, 1676. Finished the lease of Spalding,
for Mr. Godolphin.

i6th November, 1676. My son and I dining at my
Lord Chamberlain's, he showed us among others that in-
comparable piece of Raphael's, being a Minister of State
dictating to Guicciardini, the earnestness of whose face
looking up in expectation of what he was next to write,
is so to the life, and so natural, as I esteem it one of
the choicest pieces of that admirable artist. There was
a woman's head of Leonardo da Vinci ; a Madonna of old
Palma, and two of Vandyke's, of which one was his own
picture at length, when young, in a leaning posture; the
other, an eunuch, singing. Rare pieces indeed!

4th December, 1676. I saw the great ball danced by
all the gallants and ladies at the Duchess of York's.

loth December, 1676. There fell so deep a snow as
hindered us from church.

12th December, 1676. To London, in so great a snow,
as I remember not to have seen the like.


17th December, 1676. More snow falling, I was not
able to get to church.

8th February, 1676-77. I went to Roehampton, with
my Lady Duchess of Ormond. The garden and perspec-
tive is pretty, the prospect most agreeable.

15th May, 1677. Came the Earl of Peterborough, to
desire me to be a trustee for Lord Viscount Mordaunt
and the Countess, for the sale of certain lands set out
by Act of Parliament, to pay debts.

12th June, 1677. I went to London, to give the Lord
Ambassador Berkeley (now returned from the treaty at
Nimeguen ) an account of the great trust reposed in me
during his absence, I having received and remitted to
him no less than ;^2o,ooo to my no small trouble and
loss of time, that during his absence, and when the
Lord Treasurer was no great friend [of his] I yet
procured him great sums, very often soliciting his
Majesty in his behalf; looking after the rest of his
estates and concerns entirely, without once accepting
any kind of acknowledgment, purely upon the request of
my dear friend, Mr. Godolphin. I returned with abun-
dance of thanks and professions from my Lord Berkeley
and my Lady.

29th June, 1677. This business being now at an end,
and myself delivered from that intolerable servitude and
correspondence, I had leisure to be somewhat more at
home and to myself.

3d July, 1677. I sealed the deeds of sale of the manor
of Blechingley to Sir Robert Clayton, for payment of
Lord Peterborough's debts, according to the trust of the
Act of Parliament.

i6th July, 1677. I went to Wotton. — 22d. Mr. Evans,
curate of Abinger, preached an excellent sermon on
Matt. V. 12. In the afternoon, Mr. Higham at Wotton

26th July, 1677. I dined at Mr. Duncomb's, at Sheere,
whose house stands environed with very sweet and quick

29th July, 1677. Mr. Bohun, my Son's late tutor,
preached at Abinger, on Phil., iv. 8, very elegantly and

5th August, 1677. I went to visit my Lord Brounker,
now taking the waters at Dulwich.

1676-77 JOHN EVELYN 115

9th August, 1677. Dined at the Earl of Peterborough's
the day after the marriage of my Lord of Arundel to
Lady Mary Mordaunt, daughter of the Earl of Peter-

28th August, 1677. To visit my Lord Chamberlain, in
Suffolk; he sent his coach and six to meet and bring
me from St. Edmund's Bury to Euston.

29th August, 1677. We hunted in the Park and killed a
very fat buck.

31st August, 1677. I went a hawking.

4th September, 1677. I went to visit my Lord Crofts,
now dying at St. Edmunds Bury, and took the oppor-
tunity to see this ancient town, and the remains of that
famous monastery and abbey. There is little standing
entire, save the gatehouse; it has been a vast and mag-
nificent Gothic structure, and of great extent. The gates
are wood, but quite plated over with iron. There are
also two stately churches, one especially.

5th September, 1677. I went to Thetford, to the
borough-town, where stand the ruins of a religious house :
there is a round mountain artificially raised, either for
some castle, or monument, which makes a pretty land-
scape. As we went and returned, a tumbler showed his
extraordinary address in the Warren. I also saw the
Decoy; much pleased with the stratagem.

7th September, 1677. There dined this day at my
Lord's one Sir John Gaudy, a very handsome person,
but quite dumb, yet very intelligent by signs, and a
very fine painter; he was so civil and well bred, as it
was not possible to discern any imperfection in him.
His lady and children were also there, and he was at
church in the morning with us.

9th September, 1677. A stranger preached at Euston
Church, and fell into a handsome panegyric on my Lord's
new building the church, which indeed for its elegance
and cheerfulness, is one of the prettiest country churches
in England. My Lord told me his heart smote him that,
after he had bestowed so much on his magnificent palace
there, he should see God's House in the ruin it lay in.
He has also rebuilt the parsonage-house, all of stone,
very neat and ample.

loth September, 1677. To divert me, my Lord would
needs carry me to see Ipswich, when we dined with one


Mr. Mann by the way, who was Recorder of the town.
There were in our company my Lord Huntingtower, son
to the Duchess of Lauderdale, Sir Edward Bacon, a
learned gentleman of the family of the great Chancellor
Verulam, and Sir John Felton, with some other knights
and gentlemen. After dinner came the bailiff and
magistrates in their formalities with their maces to com-
pliment my Lord, and invite him to the town-house,
where they presented us a collation of dried sweetmeats
and wine, the bells ringing, etc. Then, we went to see
the town, and first, the Lord Viscount Hereford's house,
which stands in a park near the town, like that at Brus-
sels, in Flanders; the house not great, yet pretty, espe-
cially the hall. The stews for fish succeeded one another,
and feed one the other, all paved at bottom. There is a
good picture of the blessed virgin in one of the parlors,
seeming to be of Holbein, or some good master. Then
we saw the Haven, seven miles from Harwich. The tide
runs out every day, but the bedding being soft mud, it
is safe for shipping and a station. The trade of Ipswich
is for the most part Newcastle coals, with which they
supply London; but it was formerly a clothing town.
There is not any beggar asks alms in the whole place,
a thing very extraordinary, so ordered by the prudence
of the magistrates. It has in it fourteen or fifteen beau-
tiful churches: in a word, it is for building, cleanness,
and good order, one of the best towns in England. Car-
dinal Wolsey was a butcher's son of Ipswich, but there
is little of that magnificent Prelate's foundation here,
besides a school and I think a library, which I did not
see. His intentions were to build some great thing.
We returned late to Euston, having traveled about fifty
miles this day.

Since first I was at this place, I found things exceed-
ingly improved. It is seated in a bottom between two
graceful swellings, the main building being now in the
figure of a Greek II with four pavilions, two at each
comer, and a break in the front, railed and balustered at
the top, where I caused huge jars to be placed full of earth
to keep them steady upon their pedestals between the stat-
ues, which make as good a show as if they were of
stone, and, though the building be of brick, and but
two stories besides cellars and garrets covered with

i677 JOHN EVELYN 117

blue slate, yet there is room enough for a full court, the
offices and outhouses being so ample and well disposed.
The King's apartment is painted a fresco^ and magnifi-
cently furnished. There are many excellent pictures of
the great masters. The gallery is a pleasant, noble
room; in the break, or middle, is a billiard table, but
the wainscot, being of fir, and painted, does not please
me so well as Spanish oak without paint. The chapel is
pretty, the porch descending to the gardens. The orange
garden is very fine, and leads into the greenhouse, at
the end of which is a hall to eat in, and the conserva-
tory some hundred feet long, adorned with maps, as the
other side is with the heads of the Caesars, ill cut in
alabaster; above are several apartments for my Lord,
Lady, and Duchess, with kitchens and other offices be-
low, in a lesser form; lodgings for servants, all distinct
for them to retire to when they please and would be in
private, and have no communication with the palace,
which he tells me he will wholly resign to his son-in-
law and daughter, that charming young creature.

The canal running under my Lady's dressing room
chamber window, is full of carps and fowl, which come
and are fed there. The cascade at the end of the canal
turns a cornmill that provides the family, and raises
water for the fountains and offices. To pass this canal
into the opposite meadows. Sir Samuel Morland has in-
vented a screw bridge, which, being turned with a key,
lands you fifty feet distant at the entrance of an ascend-
ing walk of trees, a mile in length, — as it is also on the
front into the park, — of four rows of ash trees, and reaches
to the park pale, which is nine miles in compass, and the
best for riding and meeting the game that I ever saw.
There were now of red and fallow deer almost a thou-
sand, with good covert, but the soil barren and flying
sand, in which nothing will grow kindly. The tufts of
fir, and much of the other wood, were planted by my di-
rection some years before. This seat is admirably
placed for field sports, hawking, hunting, or racing.
The mutton is small, but sweet. The stables hold thirty
horses and four coaches. The out-offices make two large
quadrangles, so as servants never lived with more ease
and convenience; never master more civil. Strangers
are attended and accommodated as at their home, in


pretty apartments furnished with all manner of conven-
iences and privacy.

There is a library full of excellent books; bathing rooms,
elaboratory, dispensary, a decoy, and places to keep and fat
fowl in. He had now in his new church (near the gar-
den) built a dormitory, or vault, with several repositories,
in which to bury his family.

In the expense of this pious structure, the church is
most laudable, most of the houses of God in this country
resembling rather stables and thatched cottages than
temples in which to serve the Most High. He has built
a lodge in the park for the keeper, which is a neat dwell-
ing, and might become any gentleman. The same has he
done for the parson, little deserving it for murmuring
that my Lord put him some time out of his wretched
hovel, while it was building. He has also erected a fair
inn at some distance from his palace, with a bridge of
stone over a river near it, and repaired all the tenants'
houses, so as there is nothing but neatness and accommo-
dations about his estate, which I yet think is not above
^1,500 a year. I believe he had now in his family one
hundred domestic servants.

His lady (being one of the Brederode's daughters,
grandchild to a natural son of Henry Frederick, Prince
of Orange) is a good-natured and obliging woman. They
love fine things, and to live easily, pompously, and hos-
pitably; but, with so vast expense, as plunges my Lord
into debts exceedingly. My Lord himself is given into
no expensive vice but building, and to have all things
rich, polite, and princely. He never plays, but reads
much, having the Latin, French, and Spanish tongues in
perfection. He has traveled much, and is the best bred
and courtly person his Majesty has about him, so as the
public Ministers more frequent him than any of the rest
of the nobility. While he was Secretary of State and
Prime Minister, he had gotten vastly, but spent it as
hastily, even before he had established a fund to main-
tain his greatness ; and now beginning to decline in favor
(the Duke being no great friend of his), he knows not
how to retrench. He was son of a Doctor of Laws, whom
I have seen, and, being sent from Westminster School to
Oxford, with intention to be a divine, and parson of Ar-
lington, a village near Brentford, when Master of Arts

i677 JOHN EVELYN 119

the Rebellion falling- out, he followed the King's Army,
and receiving an honorable wound in the face, grew
into favor, and was advanced from a mean fortune, at his
Majesty's Restoration, to be an Earl and Knight of the
Garter, Lord Chamberlain of the Household, and first
favorite for a long time, during which the King married
his natural son, the Duke of Grafton, to his only daughter
and heiress, as before mentioned, worthy for her beauty
and virtue of the greatest prince in Christendom. My
Lord is, besides this, a prudent and understanding person
in business, and speaks well ; unfortunate yet in those he
has advanced, most of them proving ungrateful. The
many obligations and civilities I have received from this
noble gentleman, extracts from me this character, and I
am sorry he is in no better circumstances.

Having now passed near three weeks at Euston, to
my great satisfaction, with much difficulty he suffered
me to look homeward, being very earnest with me to
stay longer; and, to engage me, would himself have
carried me to Lynn-Regis, a town of important traffic,
about twenty miles beyond, which I had never seen; as
also the Traveling Sands, about ten miles wide of Eus-
ton, that have so damaged the country, rolling from
place to place, and, like the Sands in the Deserts of

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