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Lybia, quite overwhelmed some gentlemen's whole estates,
as the relation extant in print, and brought to our So-
ciety, describes at large

13th September, 1677, My Lord's coach conveyed me
to Bury, and thence baiting at Newmarket, stepping in
at Audley-End to see that house again, I slept at Bishop-
Stortford, and, the next day, home. I was accompanied
in my journey by Major Fairfax, of a younger house
of the Lord Fairfax, a soldier, a traveler, an excel-
lent musician, a good-natured, well-bred gentleman.
1 8th September, 1677. I preferred Mr. Phillips (nephew
of Milton) to the service of my Lord Chamberlain, who
wanted a scholar to read to and entertain him some-
times.

12th October, 1677. With Sir Robert Clayton to Mar-
den, an estate he had bought lately of my kinsman. Sir
John Evelyn, of Godstone, in Surrey, which from a des-
picable farmhouse Sir Robert had erected into a scat
with extraordinary expense. It is in such a solitude



I20 DIARY OF LONDON

among hills, as, being not above sixteen miles from Lon-
don, seems almost incredible, the ways up to it are so
winding and intricate. The gardens are large, and well-
walled, and the husbandry part made very convenient
and perfectly understood. The barns, the stacks of com,
the stalls for cattle, pigeon house, etc., of most laudable
example. Innumerable are the plantations of trees,
especially walnuts. The orangery and gardens are very
curious. In the house are large and noble rooms. He
and his lady (who is very curious in distillery) enter-
tained me three or four days very freely. I earnestly
suggested to him the repairing of an old desolate dilap-
idated church, standing on the hill above the house,
which I left him in good disposition to do, and endow
it better; there not being above four or five houses in
the parish, besides that of this prodigious rich Scrivener.
This place is exceedingly sharp in the winter, by reason
of the serpentining of the hills: and it wants running
water; but the solitude much pleased me. All the
ground is so full of wild thyme, marjoram, and other
sweet plants, that it cannot be overstocked with bees;
I think he had near forty hives of that industrious in-
sect.

14th October, 1677. I went to church at Godstone,
and to see old Sir John Evelyn's dormitory, joining to
the church, paved with marble, where he and his Lady
lie on a very stately monument at length ; he in armor
of white marble. The inscription is only an account
of his particular branch of the family, on black marble.

15th October, 1677. Returned to London; in the even-
ing, I saw the Prince of Orange, and supped with Lord
Ossory.

23d October, 1677. Saw again the Prince of Orange;
his marriage with the Lady Mary, eldest daughter to
the Duke of York, by Mrs. Hyde, the late Duchess, was
now declared.

nth November, 1677. I was all this week composing
matters between old Mrs. Howard and Sir Gabriel Syl-
vius, upon his long and earnest addresses to Mrs. Anne,
her second daughter, maid of honor to the Queen My
friend, Mrs. Godolphin ( who exceedingly loved the young
lady ) was most industrious in it, out of pity to the lan-
guishing knight ; so as though there were great differences



1677-78 JOHN EVELYN 121

in their years, it was at last effected, and they were
married the 13th, in Henry VII. 's Chapel, by the Bishop
of Rochester, there being besides my wife and Mrs. Gra-
ham, her sister, Mrs. Godolphin, and very few more.
We dined at the old lady's, and supped at Mr. Graham's
at St. James's.

15th November, 1677. The Queen's birthday, a great
ball at Court, where the Prince of Orange and his new
Princess danced.

19th November, 1677. They went away, and I saw
embarked my Lady Sylvius, who went into Holland with
her husband, made Hoffmaester to the Prince, a consider-
able employment. We parted with great sorrow, for the
great respect and honor I bore her, a most pious and
virtuous lady.

27th November, 1677. Dined at the Lord Treasurer's
with Prince Rupert, Viscount Falkenburg, Earl of Bath,
Lord O'Brien, Sir John Lowther, Sir Christopher Wren,
Dr. Grew, and other learned men.

30th November, 1677. Sir Joseph Williamson, Princi-
pal Secretary of State, was chosen President of the Royal
Society, after my Lord Viscount Brounker had possessed
the chair now sixteen years successively, and therefore
now thought fit to change, that prescription might not
prejudice.

4th December, 1677. Being the first day of his taking
the chair, he gave us a magnificent supper.

20th December, 1677. Carried to my Lord Treasurer
an account of the Earl of Bristol's Library, at Wimble-
don, which my Lord thought of purchasing, till I
acquainted him that it was a very broken collection, con-
sisting much in books of judicial astrology, romances, and
trifles.

25th December, 1677. I gave my son an office, with
instructions how to govern his youth ; I pray God give
him the grace to make a right use of it!

23d January, 1677-78. Dined with the Duke of Nor-
folk, being the first time I had seen him since the death
of his elder brother, who died at Padua in Italy, where
he had resided above thirty years. The Duke had now
newly declared his marriage to his concubine, whom he
promised me he never would marry. I went with him
to see the Duke of Buckingham, thence to my Lord



122 DIARY OF LONDON

Sunderland, now Secretary of State, to show him that
rare piece of Vosterman's (son of old Vosterman), which
was a view, or landscape of my Lord's palace, etc., at
Althorpe in Northamptonshire,

8th February, 1678. Supping at my Lord Chamber-
lain's I had a long discourse with the Count de Castel
Mellor, lately Prime Minister in Portugal, who, taking
part with his master. King Alphonso, was banished by
his brother, Don Pedro, now Regent; but had behaved
himself so uncorruptly in all his ministry that, though
he was acquitted, and his estate restored, yet would
they not suffer him to return. He is a very intelligent
and worthy gentleman.

1 8th February, 1678. My Lord Treasurer sent for me
to accompany him to Wimbledon, which he had lately
purchased of the Earl of Bristol; so breaking fast with
him privately in his chamber, I accompanied him with
two of his daughters, my Lord Conway, and Sir Bernard
Gascoyne; and, having surveyed his gardens and altera-
tions, returned late at night.

226. February, 1678. Dr. Pierce preached at Whitehall,
on 2 Thessalonians iii. 6, against our late schismatics, in
a rational discourse, but a little over-sharp, and not at all
proper for the auditory there.

22d March, 1678. Dr. South preached coram Rege, an
incomparable discourse on this text, ^^ A wounded spirit
who can bear ! ^^ Note : Now was our Communion table
placed altarwise; the church steeple, clock, and other
reparations finished.

1 6th April, 1678. I showed Don Emmanuel de Lyra
(Portugal Ambassador) and the Count de Castel Mellor,
the Repository of the Royal Society, and the College of
Physicians.

1 8th April, 1678. I went to see new Bedlam Hospital,
magnificently built, and most sweetly placed in Moorfields,
since the dreadful fire in London.

28th June, 1678. I went to Windsor with my Lord
Chamberlain ( the castle now repairing with exceeding
cost) to see the rare work of Verrio, an incomparable
carving of Gibbons.

29th June, 1678. Returned with my Lord by Hounslow
Heath, where we saw the newly raised army encamped,
designed against France, in pretense, at least ; but which



1678 JOHN EVELYN 123

gave umbrage to the Parliament. His Majesty and a
world of company were in the field, and the whole army
in battalia; a very glorious sight. Now were brought
into service a new sort of soldiers, called Grenadiers,
who were dexterous in flinging hand grenados, everyone
having a pouch full; they had furred caps with coped
crowns like Janizaries, which made them look very fierce,
and some had long hoods hanging down behind, as we
picture fools. Their clothing being likewise piebald, yel-
low and red.

8th July, 1678. Came to dine with me my Lord
Longford, Treasurer of Ireland, nephew to that learned
gentleman, my Lord Aungier, with whom I was long
since acquainted ; also the Lady Stidolph, and other com-
pany.

19th July, 1678. The Earl of Ossory came to take his
leave of me, going into Holland to command the English
forces.

20th July, 1678. I went to the Tower to try a metal
at the Assay-master's, which only proved sulphur; then
saw Monsieur Rotiere, that excellent graver belonging to
the Mint, who emulates even the ancients, in both metal
and stone;* he was now molding a horse for the King's
statue, to be cast in silver, of a yard high. I dined with
Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint.

23d July, 1678. Went to see Mr. Elias Ashmole's
library and curiosities, at Lambeth. He had divers
MSS., but most of them astrological, to which study he
is addicted, though I believe not learned, but very in-
dustrious, as his History of the order of the Garter
proves. He showed me a toad included in amber. The
prospect from a turret is very fine, it being so near
London, and yet not discovering any house about the
country. The famous John Tradescant bequeathed his
Repository to this gentleman, who has given them to
the University of Oxford, and erected a lecture on them,
over the laboratory, in imitation of the Royal Society.

Mr. Godolphin was made master of the robes to the King.

25th July, 1678. There was sent me ^70; from whom
I knew not, to be by me distributed among poor people ; I

* Doubtless Philip Rotiere, who introduced the figure of Britannia
into the coinage, taking for his model the King's favorite, Frances
Stewart, Duchess of Richmond.



124 DIARY OF WEYBRIDGE ,

afterward found it was from that dear friend ( Mrs. Godol-
phin), who had frequently given me large sums to be-
stow on charities.

1 6th August, 1678. I went to Lady Mordaunt, who
put ^100 into my hand to dispose of for pious uses, re-
lief of prisoners, poor, etc. Many a sum had she sent
me on similar occasions; a blessed creature she was, and
one that loved and feared God exemplaily.

23d August, 1678. Upon Sir Robert Reading's impor-
tunity, I went to visit the Duke of Norfolk, at his new
palace at Weybridge, where he has laid out in building
near ^{^1 0,000, on a copyhold, and in a miserable, bar-
ren, sandy place by the street side ; never in my life had
I seen such expense to so small purpose. The rooms are
wainscotted, and some of them richly pargeted with ce-
dar, yew, cypress, etc. There are some good pictures,
especially that incomparable painting of Holbein's, where
the Duke of Norfolk, Charles Brandon and Henry VIII.,
are dancing with the three ladies, with most amorous
countenances, and sprightly motion exquisitely expressed.
It is a thousand pities (as I told my Lord of Arundel,
his son), that that jewel should be given away.

24th August, 1678. I went to see my Lord of St. Al-
ban's house, at Byfleet, an old, large building. Thence,
to the papermills, where I found them making a coarse
white paper. They cull the rags which are linen for
white paper, woolen for brown; then they stamp them
in troughs to a pap, with pestles, or hammers, like the
powder mills, then put it into a vessel of water, in which
they dip a frame closely wired with wire as small as a
hair and as close as a weaver's reed; on this they take
up the pap, the superfluous w^ater draining through the
wire ; this they dexterously turning, shake out like a pan-
cake on a smooth board between two pieces of flannel,
then press it between a great press, the flannel sucking
out the moisture; then, taking it out, they ply and dry
it on strings, as they dry linen in the laundry; then dip
it in alum water, lastly, polish and make it up in quires.
They put some gum in the water in which they macer-
ate the rags. The mark we find on the sheets is formed
in the wire,

25th August, 1678. After evening prayer, visited Mr.
Sheldon ( nephew to the late Archbishop of Canterbury),



1678 JOHN EVELYN 125

and his pretty melancholy garden; I took notice of the
largest arbor thuyris I had ever seen. The place is finely
watered, and there are many curiosities of India, shown
in the house.

There was at Weybridge the Duchess of Norfolk, Lord
Thomas Howard ( a worthy and virtuous gentleman,
with whom my son was sometime bred in Arundel House ),
who was newly come from Rome, where he had been
some time; also one of the Duke's daughters, by his first
lady. My Lord leading me about the house made no
scruple of showing me all the hiding places for the Pop-
ish priests, and where they said mass, for he was no
bigoted Papist. He told me he never trusted them with
any secret, and used Protestants only in all businesses
of importance.

I went this evening with my Lord Duke to Windsor,
where was a magnificent Court, it being the first time
of his Majesty's removing thither since it was repaired.

27th August, 1678. I took leave of the Duke, and dined
at Mr. Henry Bruncker's, at the Abbey of Sheene, form-
erly a monastery of Carthusians, there yet remaining one of
their solitary cells with a cross. Within this ample in-
closure are several pretty villas and fine gardens of the
most excellent fruits, especially Sir William Temple's
(lately Ambassador into Holland), and the Lord Lisle's,
son to the Earl of Leicester, who has divers rare pictures,
above all, that of Sir Brian Tuke's, by Holbein.

After dinner I walked to Ham, to see the ^house and
garden of the Duke of Lauderdale, which is indeed in-
ferior to few of the best villas in Italy itself; the house
furnished like a great Prince's; the parterres, flower-
gardens, orangeries, groves, avenues, courts, statues,
perspectives, fountains, aviaries, and all this at the banks
of the sweetest river in the world, must needs be ad-
mirable.

Hence, I went to my worthy friend. Sir Henry Capel
[at Kew], brother to the Earl of Essex; it is an old timber-
house ; but his garden has the choicest fruit of any plan-
tation in England, as he is the most industrious and
understanding in it.

29th August, 1678. I was called to London to wait
upon the Duke of Norfolk, who having at my sole re-
quest bestowed the Arundelian Library on the Royal



126 DIARY OF LONDON

Society; sent to me to take charge of the books, and re-
move them, only stipulating that I would suffer the
Herald's chief officer, Sir William Dugdale, to have such
of them as concerned heraldry and the marshal's office,
books of armory and genealogies, the Duke being Earl
Marshal of England. I procured for our Society, besides
printed books, near one hundred MSS. some in Greek of
great concernment. The printed books being of the old-
est impressions, are not the less valuable ; I esteem them
almost equal to MSS. Among them, are most of the
Fathers, printed at Basil, before the Jesuits abused them
with their expurgatory Indexes; there is a noble MS. of
Vitruvius. Many of these books had been presented by
Popes, Cardinals, and great persons, to the Earls of Arun-
del and Dukes of Norfolk ; and the late magnificent Earl
of Arundel bought a noble library in Germany, which is
in this collection. I should not, for the honor I bear the
family, have persuaded the Duke to part with these, had
I not seen how negligent he was of them, suffering the
priests and everybody to carry away and dispose of what
they pleased; so that abundance of rare things are irre-
coverably gone.

Having taken order here, I went to the Royal Society
to give them an account of what I had procured, that
they might call a Council and appoint a day to wait on
the Duke to thank him for this munificent gift.

3d September, 1678. I went to London, to dine with
Mrs. Godolphin, and found her in labor ; she was brought
to bed of a son, who was baptized in the chamber, by
the name of Francis, the susceptors being Sir William
Godolphin (head of the family), Mr. John Hervey, Treas-
urer to the Queen, and Mrs. Boscawen, sister to Sir
William and the father.

8th September, 1678. While I was at church came a
letter from Mr. Godolphin, that my dear friend his lady
was exceedingly ill, and desiring my prayers and assist-
ance. My wife and I took boat immediately, and went
to Whitehall, where, to my inexpressible sorrow, I found
she had been attacked with a new fever, then reigning
this excessive hot autumn, and which was so violent,
that it was not thought she could last many hours.

9th September, 1678. She died in the 26th year of her
age, to the inexpressible affliction of her dear husband,



1678 JOHN EVELYN 127

and all her relations, but of none in the world more than
of myself, who lost the most excellent and inestimable
friend that ever lived. Never was a more virtuous and
inviolable friendship; never a more religious, discreet,
and admirable creature, beloved of all, admired of all,
for all possible perfections of her sex. She is gone to
receive the reward of her signal charity, and all other
her Christian graces, too blessed a creature to converse
with mortals, fitted as she was, by a most holy life, to
be received into the mansions above. She was for wit,
beauty, good nature, fidelity, discretion, and all accom-
plishments, the most incomparable person. How shall I
ever repay the obligations to her for the infinite good
offices she did my soul by so often engaging me to make
religion the terms and tie of the friendship there was
between us! She was the best wife, the best mistress,
the best friend, that ever husband had. But it is not
here that I pretend to give her character, having de-
signed TO CONSECRATE HER WORTHY LIFE TO POSTERITY.

Her husband, struck with unspeakable affliction, fell
down as dead. The King himself, and all the Court,
expressed their sorrow. To the poor and miserable, her
loss was irreparable; for there was no degree but had
some obligation to her memory. So careful and provi-
dent was she to be prepared for all possible accidents,
that (as if she foresaw her end) she received the heav-
enly viaticum but the Sunday before, after a most sol-
emn recollection. She put all her domestic concerns into
the exactest order, and left a letter directed to her hus-
band, to be opened in case she died in childbed, in
which with the most pathetic and endearing expressions
of the most loyal and virtuous wife, she begs his kind-
ness to her memory might be continued by his care and
esteem of those she left behind, even to her domestic
servants, to the meanest of which she left considerable
legacies, as well as to the poor. It was now seven years
since she was maid of honor to the Queen, that she re-
garded me as a father, a brother, and what is more, a
friend. We often prayed, visited the sick and miserable,
received, read, discoursed, and communicated in all holy
offices together. She was most dear to my wife, and
affectionate to my children. But she is gone ! This only
is my comfort, that she is happy in Christ, and I shall



128 DIARY OF LONDON

shortly behold her again. She desired to be buried in
the dormitory of his family, near three hundred miles
from all her other friends. So afflicted was her husband
at this severe loss, that the entire care of her funeral
was committed to me. Having closed the eyes, and
dropped a tear upon the cheek of my dear departed friend,
lovely even in death, I caused her corpse to be embalmed
and wrapped in lead, a plate of brass soldered thereon,
with an inscription, and other circumstances due to her
worth, with as much diligence and care as my grieved
heart would permit me ; I then retired home for two days,
which were spent in solitude and sad reflection.

17th September, 1678. She was, accordingly, carried
to Godolphin, in Cornwall, in a hearse with six horses,
attended by two coaches of as many, with about thirty
of her relations and servants. There accompanied the
hearse her husband's brother. Sir William, two more of
his brothers, and three sisters ; her husband was so over-
come with grief, that he was wholly unfit to travel so
long a journey, till he was more composed. I went as
far as Hounslow with a sad heart; but was obliged to
return upon some indispensable affairs. The corpse was
ordered to be taken out of the hearse every night, and
decently placed in the house, with tapers about it, and
her servants attending, to Cornwall; and then was hon-
orably interred in the parish church of Godolphin. This
funeral cost not much less than ^1,000.

With Mr. Godolphin, I looked over and sorted his
lady's papers, most of which consisted of Prayers, Medi-
tations, Sermon-notes, Discourses, and Collections on
several religious subjects, and many of her own happy
composing, and so pertinently digested, as if she had been
all her life a student in divinity. We found a diary of
her solemn resolutions, tending to practical virtue, with
letters from select friends, all put into exact method.
It astonished us to see what she had read and written,
her youth considered.

ist October, 1678. The Parliament and the whole Na-
tion were alarmed about a conspiracy of some eminent
Papists for the destruction of the King and introduction
of Popery, discovered by one Gates and Dr. Tongue,*

* Ezrael Tonge was bred in University College, Oxford, and being
puritanically inclined, quitted the University; but in 1648 returned,



1678 JOHN EVELYN 129

WHICH LAST I KNEW, BEING THE TRANSLATOR OF THE deponent answered, Whitbread
then demanded, whether he would undertake to poison, or assassinate
the author; which deponent undertook, having ^^50 reward promised
him, and appointed to return to England. >'
9



I30 DIARY OF London

Godfrey, found strangled about this time, as was mani-
fest, by the Papists, he being the Justice of the Peace,
and one who knew much of their practices, as converse
ant with Coleman (a servant of the . . . now ac^
cused), put the whole nation into a new ferment against
them.

31st October, 1678. Being the 58th of my age, re^
quired my humble addresses to Almighty God, and that



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