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Thomas Bacon.

First impressions and studies from nature in Hindostan; embracing an outline of the voyage to Calcutta, and five years residence in Bengal and the Doáb, from MDCCCXXXI to MDCCCXXXVI (Volume 2) online

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Online LibraryThomas BaconFirst impressions and studies from nature in Hindostan; embracing an outline of the voyage to Calcutta, and five years residence in Bengal and the Doáb, from MDCCCXXXI to MDCCCXXXVI (Volume 2) → online text (page 1 of 23)
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UNIVERSITY OF CAUFORNIA
AT LOS ANGELES







FIRST IMPRESSIONS



STUDIES FROM NATURE



HINDOSTAN;



EMBRACING



AN OUTLINE OF THE VOYAGE TO CALCUTTA,



FIVE years' residence IN BENGAL AND THE DOAB,



MDCCCXXXI to MDCCCXXXVI.



By THOMAS BACON, Lieut.

OP THE BENGAL HORSE ABTILLEaT.



IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.



LONDON:

Wm. H. ALLEN AND CO.

LEADENHALL STREET.

1837.



PtinteJ by J. I.. Cox and Sons, 76, Groat Queen SttetK,
l.incoln't-Inii Fields.









CONTENTS OF VOL. II.



CHAPTER I.



WILD SPORTS.

PACE

A Second Party. — The Kadir Dhoon. — Daring Exploit of
the Shikarri. — An Expedient. — Firing the Jungul. — A
Home Charge. — The Elephant Wounded. — Allotment
of Sport. — A Wild Elephant. — Attack of the Wild
Elephant. — The Charge, Chase^ and Death. — Dimen-
sions of the Elephant. — Charms. — The Remains. —
Value, IManagement, and Training of the Elephant. —
The Mahawut. — Instances of Extraordinary Sagacity. —
A Rescue, — Domestic Habits. — Crossing a Quicksand. —
a Narrow Escape. — The Tiger's Leap 1



CHAPTER II.

SIRDHAKA. — THE BEGUM SUMROO AND HER COURT.

Titles of the Begum Sumroo. — Amount of the Sirdhana

Revenue. — The Palace and Chapel. — Native Christians.

— Summers, the Begum's Husband. — The Attack of

Patna, and the Massacre. — Capture of Monghir. — Zeb-

VOL. 1 I. b



357100



VI CON T F, \ T S,

VAGK

ul-Nissa.— Miirdtroiis Plnt.—Suicide of Summers — A
Living Burial. — L'Oiscau. — The Begum's Person.— The
Durlmr. — Profuse Liberality. — Colonel Dyce. — The
Iliir-elect. — Officers of the Service. — Bishop Julius
Ctcsar, the Padri Sahib. — High Mass and Grand Fete at
Christmas. — Entertainment of the Visitors — Pride and
Precedence. — Homage due to the Emperor of Dehli. —
Death of the Begum. — The Funeral Ceremony. — Re-
smnption of the Jaghir. — The Will 32



CHAPTER III.

JOUUNEY TO THE HIMALA MOUNTAINS.

A Traveller's Choice. — A Start. — Foretastes of Pleasure. —
The Roads. — Going down to a Watering Place. — Palki-
dak. — Deobund. — Want of Irrigation. — Saharunpore. —
School of IMonkies. — The Botanical Garden. — Ingenious
Method of- Constructing Wells. — The Sivalic Ridge. —
The Beauties of Kheri Pass. — Dreams and Realities. —
Delights of a Dak Trip. — An Unbidden Visitor. — Giving
in marriage. — Deyra Dhoon. — Rajhpore. — Foot of the
Mountains. — Advice to a Hungry Man. — Ascent of the
Mountains. — A Dilemma. — A Venture. — A Perilous
Pass, during a Storm. — The Paharri Track. — Bracing
Atmosphere. — A Mountain Beauty.— Seven to One. —
Easy Divorce. — A Native's Defence of Polygamy 61



C O N T E N T S. Vll



CHAPTER IV.

THE H I M A L A MOUNTAINS.

MUSSOORI AND LAXDOUR.

PAGE

Altitudes. — The Sanitarium. — Intended Abolition of the
Depot. — Its Advantages, and Supposed Economy. — The
Snowy Range. — Altitudes of the Snowy Peaks. — Com-
pared with the Andes.— The Goitres. — Position of Mus-
soori. — Panoramic View of the Dhoon. — An Awkward
Disclosure. — Portraits. — Family Secrets. — The Joud-
pore Expedition. — Reports and Rumours. — A News-
monger.— Opening the Budget. — Phenomena. — Signs of
the Times. — Death of Major Blundel by a Fall over the

Precipice. — Landour Burial-ground Hair Breadth

Escapes. — INIatter for the Virtuosi 94



CHAPTER V.

THE HIMALA MOUNTAINS.

The Bum-bailiff Abroad. — False Alarm. — An Exquisite at
Home. — Something Sentimental. — The Common-place-
bouk. — Touching the Society of Merat. — A Review of
Public Amusements. — Their Decay. — Mischief-makers.
— The Ladies. — A Fracas. — Paternal Affection. — Bear-
liuiiting Expedition. — A Panic among the Koolies. —
Flushing the Game. — A Leopard. — liadul Kooli Moun-

1:. 2



Viii (• () N 'l' K N T s.

I'AGt

t.iiii. — Tlu- Hcar's Track. — Encounter with a Bear. —
A Fearful Overthrow. — Cave in the Mountain-side. —
Interior of the Den. — The Guides Confounded. —Despoil-
ing tl>e Ciistle. — Kidnappers. — A Fatal Step. — Con-
veyances. — The Jaunpaun. — Flights of Romance. — A
Restive Pony. — Rapid Dak-travelling. — Return to the
Plains 118



CHAPTER VI.

IIURDWAR DURING THE FESTIVAL.

The Practice-Season. — Forced Marches. — Travelling Dis-
tance of Hurdwar. — The Route. — Languor on the
March. — Shooting in the J unguis. — A Ruinous Pur-
chase. — Handsome Equipment. — Late Travelling. — Face
to Face with a Tiger. — A Happy Escape. — Entrance to
Kunkhul by IMoonlight. — Traveller's Fare. — S^^mptoms
of the Mela. — Main Street of Kunkhul. — A Tamasha. —
Uproar and Confusion. — Hospitality -hunting. — Hurri-
Burree. — An Awkward Alistake. — Grand Season of
Pilgrimage. — Derivation of the Name Hurdwar. —
Position of the Town. — The Ghat. — Estimate of the
Concourse. — The Crush. — Wholesale Destruction of
Life — Female Beauties. — The Ceremony of Ablution.

— Appropriation of the Offerings The Bazaars

Sweet-meat Venders — Tame Fish. — Articles of Trade.
—The Cattle-market — The Gaovn-.— The Wild Ass.—

Native Horse-dealers and Jockies Mode of Purchase.

—Slave Girls Ibr Sale.— Price of Slaves. — Storv of



C O \ T E N T S. IX

PAGE

Rahmea, the Slave Girl. — An Elopement. — The Fakhir.
— A Treacherous Physician. — The Cheat Unmasked. —
Fate of the Beautiful Luchmi. — Excursion into Deyra
Dhoon. — Lundhoura. — High Life Below Stairs. — A
Counterfeit Rajha. — Imposition Detected. — The Use of
a Goat. — Detour through theJunguls. — Tiger Shooting. ^"
— A Disastrous Campaign. — A New Enemy. — Malignity
of the Terhaie Fever 152



CHAPTER VII.

ANCIENT DEHLI AND SHAHJEHANABAD.

Motives for the Trip. — The Advantage of Display. — A
Married Sub. — The Road. — Begumabad. — Singular
Instance of Honesty. — A Breakfast by the Way. — Con-
jugal Felicity. — Trials of Temper. — Fording the Ilindon.
— A Lady in Distress. — Crossing the Jumna. — Entrance
into Dehli. — Arrival at the Begum's Palace.— Distribu-
tion of the Garrison. — A New Dilemma. — A Friend in
Need. — Inspired with Prophecy. — Courteous Thanks. —
The Modern City. — The Population. — The Founder. —

Plan of the Fort.— The Gates.— The Chandni Chouk

Streets and Aqueducts Alii Mirdun's Canal The

Imperial Palace of Akbur Shah. — The Gateways and
Courts. — The Dewani Khas and Moti Musjid. — The
Palace Gardens, Pavilions, Baths, &c. — The Emperor
and his Suite. — Prince Mirza Sulleem. — The Jumma
Musjid. — Shah Jehan's Well. — Roshun-ud-Dowla's
Mosque.— Massacre of Dehli in 1739 201



(ONI I, N I S.



CHAPTER VIII.

ANCIENT UEIILI AND SH AH JEHAN ABAD.

, PAGE

Humours of Deatli— Fulfilment of the Prophecy— Public
Apprehensions The Nawab Shumsh-ud-deen. — Assas-
sination of Mr. Fraser the Resident. — Investigations. —
Impeachment of the Nawab. — His Imprisonment. —
Development of the Plot. — The Accomplices. — Appre-
hension of the Perpetrator.— Disturbances at Jeypore. —
Conduct of the British.— Outrage upon Major Alves
the Political Agent, with his Party. — The Rani. —
Dastardly Murder of Mr. Blake.— The Hindus Defile
their Temples with Christian Blood. — Apathy of the
, British Government. — Sentence of Death passed on
1 Shurash-ud-deen. — The Eve of Execution.— Interview
' with the Nawab.— The Last Hour. — Scene from the
i Ramparts. — Assembled Chiefs. — Prejudice Strong in
Death 242



CHAPTER IX.

ANCIENT DEHLI AND SHAHJEHANABAD.

Colonel Skinner, C.B. — His Character and Services. — The
Jaghir of Belaspore. — His Sons. — Dehli Church Built
by the Colonel. — Native Irregular Cavalry. — INIaharajha
Hindu Rao. — His Character. — Invited to a Nauch. —

Nauchnis and the Nauch Dresses, Ornaments, Songs,

Dances, &c. — Alfina, the Catalani of India. — The Nose-



CONTENTS. XI

PACE

Ring. — Punna the Persian Songstress. — The Guf-ta-gu.

— Dancing Boys Native Refection. — The Scene by

Daylight. — Debauchery. — Indraput, Ancient Dehli. —
The Ruins. — Mausoleum of Zufdir Junge. — The Gardens.
— The Kootab Minar. — The Ascent. — View from the
Top of the Tower.— A Stranger.— The Old Man's Fall
from the Summit. — Ruins of Toglukabad. — Emperor
Hummaione's Tomb. — The Barber's Tomb. — Shrine of
Nizam-ud-deen Olea. — Exquisite Sculptures. — The Serai
andBowli. — Jumpers and Divers. — A Frightful Leap —
Scrambling for JMoney. — Jey Singh's Observatory. —
The Old Fort. — Feroze Shah's Laht. — Ancient Inscrip-
tion lately Deciphered. — Attempts of the Jhauts to over-
throw the Pillar. — The Madrissa and Serais — Fatal
Issue of a JNIock Execution. — Orders to Quit. — Siege of
Dehli by Holkar 277



CHAPTER X.

VOYAGE DOWN THE JUMNA.

Leave Merat. — Dehli again. — The Residency. — Native
Pomp. — A Visit of Ceremony. — The Procession. — The
Durbar. — The Visit returned. — Retinue of the British.
— The Rajha's Encampment of Velvet and Gold. — The
Rohksut. — Taking Leave. — Terrible Earthquake. — The
Jumna. — Delights of a Native Boat. — Fellow Travellers.
— A Reduced Train — Amusements by the Way. — A
Christmas Feast. — High and dry on a Sand-bank. —
Bindrabund. — ^The Birth-place of Krishna. — Miracles



XII


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Online LibraryThomas BaconFirst impressions and studies from nature in Hindostan; embracing an outline of the voyage to Calcutta, and five years residence in Bengal and the Doáb, from MDCCCXXXI to MDCCCXXXVI (Volume 2) → online text (page 1 of 23)